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Hi,
Does it exist small embedded programmable controllers using basic or
something which can be connected to a cellular phone and be able to decode
SMS messages sent to this phone?
Thanks a lot for comments + hints and info about such devices.
You didn't leave the pic there for long did you? If you got the answerCan someone please help me identify the capacitor in the link below? I
don't really understand the writing on the capacitor so I'm having a
super hard time trying to find a replacement. All I know is that it is
not working and I need to solder a new one back on to the device in
which I took it off to get it to work again. Please help....thanks.
http://home.pacbell.net/deejay27/capacitor_pic.jpg
It may simply be that the fuse holder is broken...I am fully aware of how to test a fuse, given that I can find the
terminals of the fuse, which is not usually an unreasonable assumption.
If you look at the picture, it is a type of fuse that screws in. It
is not like the "edison" type screw-in fuses. There is kind of a
"rivet" in the end of it that, when removed, retains a metal cylinder
that hangs loosely over the rivet. I can't figure out how the fuse is
supposed to work, because when I've removed it, it physically becomes
one big short because of the loose cylindrical part.
I am fully aware of the hazards, but from the replies, you'd think I
was prodding around in it with a kitchen knife while plugged in. All I
am trying to do is test this fuse, and if disassembly is required, I
have no plans to do that with it plugged into the wall or with an
energized filter cap.
Tony Martinezwrote:
I see from ads online that I could get a brand new tube TV for
under
$200, so I guess it would have to be REALLY inexpensive to warrant
repair.
*** TUBE TVS GET A SONY LCD HDTV.
No need to get a SONY LCD HDTV. If this set is worth the repair then
I would say to go ahead and do it.
and have managed to successfuly transplant the board from the '9 to the '8,OK. Here's an update. I tried the front panel board from the 945 in
the 845 and it worked great. I checked continuity on all of the
switches on the bad board and none are shorted. I'm guessing a new
board is in order. What is a good source for sony parts? I've used
mostly pac parts but they don't seem to show this part, let alone many
sony replacement parts.
Alex
If you've got the skill to have undertaken the repair in the first place,
me when I was an apprentice nearly 40 years ago, by my apprentice mentor,Arfa Daily wrote:
trousky1@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:u84p02553f8n84bsgfl8rfle6f5s7j26rf@4ax.com...
Speaker connected (switch on or off for them), right channel power amp
still very hot. The sound is good on both speakers but I cant leave it
on for long, I am afraid to fry the power amp ($20.00)
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 19:37:03 +0100, Damir <nop@nop.hr> wrote:
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 13:12:54 -0500, trousky1@videotron.ca wrote:
Thanks Charles,
I checked the voltages(DC) on all pins on both hybrid power amps and
they are the same. I swapped the input to the hybrid power amps (left
and right channels) and I still have the same power amp getting very
hot. Not sure what to check next.
If the sound is good, but the hybrid is frying, then I would suggest that
it is hooting, maybe as high as RF. You need to get a 'scope on the
output to check for this. There may be a Zobel network ( R & C in
series ) on the output that was damaged by the previously faulty hybrid.
Alternatively, there may be a defective decoupling cap on one of the
bypass pins of the hybrid, or an open or high ESR supply decoupling cap,
and this is allowing it to hoot, which may be what caused the demise of
the original hybrid, and would ultimately do the same to the replacement,
if left.
Arfa
'Hooting', you say. I suppose by that--and your description of the
solution--you refer to high-frequency oscillation.
Hooting...that's a new one on me; but I like it.
jak
Oh, ok. Perhaps it's a funny British thing !! It's a term that was taught to
you have the red probe in the red socket, and the black in the black socket,Thanks for all the help. Since you introduced the concerns about
maintaining the proper polarity. Is there a simple way to verify
this? I recently pick up a new Greenlee DM-810 True RMS Digital
Multimeter at a garage sale for $5. Does this have a function that
would test polarity?
Bill, I'm assuming that this is a digital meter - yes ? OK. Making sure that
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 14:06:46 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
"Bill Simpson" <plusnetfiles@comcast.net.com> wrote in message
news:aj9o02dm6d2n47hu4qlusena3qnlvf3o1d@4ax.com...
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 09:03:42 GMT, "Arfa Daily"
arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
I see that my reply did get double posted. Thanks for the very
precise information. With my rather low level of technical knowledge,
do you think it more advisable that I just replace the power supply?
The power supply that I currently have is
Sunny
Input :100-240 - 1.6A Max, 50-60Hz, 70-80VA
Output: +12V - 4.0A
I contacted the manufacturer of the monitor and they want $75 for a
replacement power supply (More on that later). I've found some others,
more reasonably priced online. One is a 12V 5A (60W) and the other is
a 12V 4.16A (50W). Am I correct in assuming that both should work?
If the connector is different in these power supplies, would cutting
and soldering the original connector to the new power supply be
acceptable rather than the more complicated and dangerous course that
professionals with your expertise would take? I know it's a crude
solution, but it's something I would feel comfortable with.
The rest if off topic, but if you have some time, I would like your
opinion. I had mentioned earlier that I contacted the manufacturer
about a new power supply. I went to their home page and read the FAQ
ahead of time. I found this in the FAQ:
"My screen comes on for a second and then goes black. How do I resolve
this issue?
1. Please contact Customer Service for further assistance at
323-346-0888. There is a possible short in the ac adapter. "
It seems that the manufacturer knew about this problem for some time.
I had registered my monitor and asked the representative when I called
why they hadn't notified me of the problem (As the warranty on the
montitor had just run out). I also asked if this wasn't a potential
fire hazard. I got a typical rebuff. My question is: Could a short
in the power supply cause a fire? I this a dangerous situation or
would normal internal safeguards kept anything hazardous from
happening?
Thanks again for all of the expert help. You all went above and
beyond what I expected.
Bill
If you don't feel qualified to go inside the supply, then I would not be
comfortable advising you to do so. The fault almost certainly will be one
of
the things I suggested, but it's not worth risking injury to try to repair
it, if you're not absolutely confident of what you're doing.
Either of the two power supplies should be ok rating-wise. Any power
supply
with a rating of 4 amps, will be a switch mode type, so by very nature
will
be regulated to its declared 12v output.
Cutting and joining on the output lead is fine, BUT make absolutely sure
that you get the polarity the same as original. The monitor will not like
having reverse polarity DC shoved up it ...
If ever I join wires in this way, I always use heatshrink sleeving, which
you could probably get from your local Radio Shack. It shrinks easily with
a
small paint stripper gun on 'low', and does a nice neat job of
re-insulating
the cable, and reinforcing the join.
As far as the manufacturer's statement about a " short in the power supply
"
goes, it's probably a bit of generic techno-babble that means nothing more
than ' a faulty power supply '. Joe public can equate with a " short ". It
sounds just technical enough to be describing something real, but is
basically meaningless in this context. It is unlikely that any fire would
ensue from any of the typical ( and much more likely ) faults that the
power
supply would really be suffering from. It's probably just a typical switch
mode power supply design issue, where whover laid out the board, decided,
as
they always seem to, to place an important cap right next to a resistor
that
gets hot. It probably just happens that the fallout from this has been
particularly bad for this manufacturer, using this ( almost certainly
bought-in ) power supply on his particular product.
Arfa
Does this help?I have a Hoover vacuum, Legacy 740, model #U4537910. I have to replace the
cord. What is the easiest way to get at the motor to make this repair?
Patt
You're really going to have to troubleshoot it down further than just theOK. Here's an update. I tried the front panel board from the 945 in
the 845 and it worked great. I checked continuity on all of the
switches on the bad board and none are shorted. I'm guessing a new
board is in order. What is a good source for sony parts? I've used
mostly pac parts but they don't seem to show this part, let alone many
sony replacement parts.
Alex
There is a guy over here who has created " Beer's Maxim " ( his name isThanks for the encouragement boost. I would normally shoot deeper, but
I lack the SMD solder/desolder tools I'd need, especially the micros on
there. I've done chip resistors and caps, etc. with a standard iron on
occasion, though. I did see that crystal there and will check it out
as well as the switch matrices. The remote is actually from the 845.
...the adventure continues...
I used a Studiomaster desk that just sounded like utter sh*t. I"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:IUpPf.19217$f6.18838@bignews1.bellsouth.net...
Arfa Daily wrote:
trousky1@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:u84p02553f8n84bsgfl8rfle6f5s7j26rf@4ax.com...
Speaker connected (switch on or off for them), right channel power amp
still very hot. The sound is good on both speakers but I cant leave it
on for long, I am afraid to fry the power amp ($20.00)
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 19:37:03 +0100, Damir <nop@nop.hr> wrote:
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 13:12:54 -0500, trousky1@videotron.ca wrote:
Thanks Charles,
I checked the voltages(DC) on all pins on both hybrid power amps and
they are the same. I swapped the input to the hybrid power amps (left
and right channels) and I still have the same power amp getting very
hot. Not sure what to check next.
If the sound is good, but the hybrid is frying, then I would suggest that
it is hooting, maybe as high as RF. You need to get a 'scope on the
output to check for this. There may be a Zobel network ( R & C in
series ) on the output that was damaged by the previously faulty hybrid.
Alternatively, there may be a defective decoupling cap on one of the
bypass pins of the hybrid, or an open or high ESR supply decoupling cap,
and this is allowing it to hoot, which may be what caused the demise of
the original hybrid, and would ultimately do the same to the replacement,
if left.
Arfa
'Hooting', you say. I suppose by that--and your description of the
solution--you refer to high-frequency oscillation.
Hooting...that's a new one on me; but I like it.
jak
Oh, ok. Perhaps it's a funny British thing !! It's a term that was taught to
me when I was an apprentice nearly 40 years ago, by my apprentice mentor,
and I've always used it ...
Your assumption of its meaning Jak, is basically correct. It is a parasitic
oscillation of a stage which may be, but is often not, detrimental to the
basic operation of that stage. The OP's amp is a classic example, if that is
indeed what the problem was - pins 3,4 and 5 of that hybrid are all up the
front end, and typically have caps connected to them. The stage basically
carried out its job of amplifying ' low freq ' music perfectly well, but was
also outputting an additional signal either at an ultrasonic, or low HF
frequency, probably at close to full power, depending on how good a
bandwidth the output stage has - hence it gets very hot. I don't know if you
remember the old Texas Instruments SN76003 / 013 / 023 series of power amp
ICs. They had a sort
of " fan " shaped hetsink bonded to them. Well those used to suffer from it
badly, if the supply decoupling wasn't perfect.
I've also had genuine oscillators in mixers that have suffered from
parasitic oscillations. Their primary function has been basically fine,
except that every other radio in the vicinity is going bananas, due to the
high amplitude 'hoot' that is also occuring.
Sorry if I've caused any confusion to anyone. I'll stick to ' contemporary '
terminology in the future ... !!
Hooting is fine. I like it, but it must be a British thing...like 'valve'.
Arfa
bummer. I've been hearing about the low quality caps for a while now.You would have to go through all the capacitors in the power supply and
vertical deflection circuits with an ESR meter. More than likely you will
find a number of capacitors that have become high in ESR with use. This was
very common on many of these monitors.
Since there are serious safety issues when working in monitors, if you are
not properly trained and equipped to do monitor service work, you should
give the monitor out to a service centre for an estimate.
Considering the quality of the new LCD monitors that are in the same price
range that you paid for your Mits monitor, it may be a better preference to
upgrade to a descent LCD screen. There are many advantages of the LCD
technology over the CRT technology.
Are you sure there's even a fuse in there? Almost sounds to me like anI am fully aware of how to test a fuse, given that I can find the
terminals of the fuse, which is not usually an unreasonable assumption.
If you look at the picture, it is a type of fuse that screws in. It
is not like the "edison" type screw-in fuses. There is kind of a
"rivet" in the end of it that, when removed, retains a metal cylinder
that hangs loosely over the rivet. I can't figure out how the fuse is
supposed to work, because when I've removed it, it physically becomes
one big short because of the loose cylindrical part.
signal is being created in an audio stage, and rectified in the followingArfa Daily wrote:
"jakdedert" <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:IUpPf.19217$f6.18838@bignews1.bellsouth.net...
Arfa Daily wrote:
trousky1@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:u84p02553f8n84bsgfl8rfle6f5s7j26rf@4ax.com...
Speaker connected (switch on or off for them), right channel power amp
still very hot. The sound is good on both speakers but I cant leave it
on for long, I am afraid to fry the power amp ($20.00)
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 19:37:03 +0100, Damir <nop@nop.hr> wrote:
On Mon, 06 Mar 2006 13:12:54 -0500, trousky1@videotron.ca wrote:
Thanks Charles,
I checked the voltages(DC) on all pins on both hybrid power amps and
they are the same. I swapped the input to the hybrid power amps
(left
and right channels) and I still have the same power amp getting very
hot. Not sure what to check next.
If the sound is good, but the hybrid is frying, then I would suggest
that it is hooting, maybe as high as RF. You need to get a 'scope on
the output to check for this. There may be a Zobel network ( R & C in
series ) on the output that was damaged by the previously faulty
hybrid. Alternatively, there may be a defective decoupling cap on one
of the bypass pins of the hybrid, or an open or high ESR supply
decoupling cap, and this is allowing it to hoot, which may be what
caused the demise of the original hybrid, and would ultimately do the
same to the replacement, if left.
Arfa
'Hooting', you say. I suppose by that--and your description of the
solution--you refer to high-frequency oscillation.
Hooting...that's a new one on me; but I like it.
jak
Oh, ok. Perhaps it's a funny British thing !! It's a term that was taught
to me when I was an apprentice nearly 40 years ago, by my apprentice
mentor, and I've always used it ...
Your assumption of its meaning Jak, is basically correct. It is a
parasitic oscillation of a stage which may be, but is often not,
detrimental to the basic operation of that stage. The OP's amp is a
classic example, if that is indeed what the problem was - pins 3,4 and 5
of that hybrid are all up the front end, and typically have caps
connected to them. The stage basically carried out its job of amplifying
' low freq ' music perfectly well, but was also outputting an additional
signal either at an ultrasonic, or low HF frequency, probably at close to
full power, depending on how good a bandwidth the output stage has -
hence it gets very hot. I don't know if you remember the old Texas
Instruments SN76003 / 013 / 023 series of power amp ICs. They had a sort
of " fan " shaped hetsink bonded to them. Well those used to suffer from
it badly, if the supply decoupling wasn't perfect.
I've also had genuine oscillators in mixers that have suffered from
parasitic oscillations. Their primary function has been basically fine,
except that every other radio in the vicinity is going bananas, due to
the high amplitude 'hoot' that is also occuring.
I used a Studiomaster desk that just sounded like utter sh*t. I couldn't
get a decent mix out of it to save my life, although the rest of the PA
system was really excellent. I couldn't put my finger on it, but
something was just not 'right'. I subbed in a cheap Sunn console, and the
whole system came to life!
Turned out the Studiodisaster had parasitics (up into AM radio
frequencies) in almost every stage.
Sorry if I've caused any confusion to anyone. I'll stick to '
contemporary ' terminology in the future ... !!
Hooting is fine. I like it, but it must be a British thing...like
'valve'.
jak
Arfa
Yes, that's the sort of thing. I've had similar where a high amplitude RF
It's unusual to find one of those relics that still works. We used toI've got a Magnavox RH8524AK08 projection TV that went dead. I bought a set
of boards from an RH8520 from a guy on eBay. The power supply board
indicated in my service manual is the same for both sets (APW007). The
flyback is totally different on the set that I bought; my original has a
tube that comes out at an angle that the HV line slips into and a nut
tightens down. Since the set I bought came with the HV line and splitter, I
replaced the associated parts as well. The TV now comes on.
Aside from the questionable reliability of certain parts alreadyIs this going to cause a problem?
Fair chance. We used to carry a set of spare boards in the serviceGiven the age of the set, is it likely the power supply was changed
at some point?
The O-rings between the lens and the cooling chamber are quite durableAlso, where can I get replacement crt seal kits so I can change the
coolant?
Mark wrote:
Hi. The tape cassete will not move onto the reels. I've checked the
belts,
gears but no visible damage. If I move the gearing by hand, it works ,
could
it be electronic? Any help would be appreciated. Mark.
GODDAMN I LOVE FOOTBALL
I already have the owners manual that came with the tester. Is that 7mbindago <elindago@earthlink.net> wrote:
060307 1444 - Luddite posted:
indago <elindago@earthlink.net> wrote:
060307 0343 - Luddite posted:
indago <elindago@earthlink.net> wrote:
I have an Amphenol Millivolt Commander Model 870, about 30 years old. It
is
a sensitive, FET unit that uses batteries. Most of the batteries are
general AA 1.5 volt batteries (8), but 2 of the batteries are Duracell
Mercury 1.4 volt batteries (Duracell ZM9). I suppose that these
batteries
are a reference voltage. Mercury batteries are no longer in use, so I
used
two 1.5 volt batteries in their place.
When I turn the on and select battery test, the meter does not move. It
is
supposed to move to above the Battery OK mark. Also, when I select the
positive DC, the meter pegs negative, and when I select the negative DC,
the
meter pegs positive. The batteries are all new batteries, so there is
not
a
problem with dead batteries.
Anyone ever worked with one of these meters and can give me some insight
into the problem with it?
Polarity of mercury cells is reversed as I recall,turn the one pair
around if the holder will accept it.
All of the batteries are in their holders in the proper polarity, as shown
on the chart. I did change the two batteries as you had suggested, and
nothing changed with the operation of the meter.
Does the chart show +/- or an outline drawing of the cells?
Both
I thought that would do it,then theres always the manual
type amphenol millivolt commander into google and click on the
first result from bama.edebris.com its 7mb or so