Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt
 
On 9/22/2013 11:43 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt

Ok. That means the bulb draws about 71 mA and provides
about 200 ohms resistance when hot. If the schematic is
correct, then you can use a 22 ohm 1 watt resistor between
the transistor's collector and the bulb to replace the
existing resistor, if it's bad.

Ed
 
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1nihs$9b1$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 11:43 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt



Ok. That means the bulb draws about 71 mA and provides
about 200 ohms resistance when hot. If the schematic is
correct, then you can use a 22 ohm 1 watt resistor between
the transistor's collector and the bulb to replace the
existing resistor, if it's bad.

Ed

Thanks Ed. My problem is finding the transistor. The circuit connects from pin 64 of the connector to CM104. I'm lost from there. There's no way to know where it leads from there, and no schematic showing where the base signal comes from.

I'll keep looking for a schematic. In the meantime, I'll take the suggestion to his the junk yards.
 
On 2013-09-23, Guv Bob <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1nihs$9b1$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 11:43 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt



Ok. That means the bulb draws about 71 mA and provides
about 200 ohms resistance when hot. If the schematic is
correct, then you can use a 22 ohm 1 watt resistor between
the transistor's collector and the bulb to replace the
existing resistor, if it's bad.

Ed

Thanks Ed. My problem is finding the transistor. The circuit
connects from pin 64 of the connector to CM104. I'm lost from there.
There's no way to know where it leads from there, and no schematic
showing where the base signal comes from.

Tthe transistor may be internal to CM104




--
⚂⚃ 100% natural

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
 
Jasen Betts Inscribed thus:

Thanks Ed. My problem is finding the transistor. The circuit
connects from pin 64 of the connector to CM104. I'm lost from there.
There's no way to know where it leads from there, and no schematic
showing where the base signal comes from.

Tthe transistor may be internal to CM104

Looking very closely at the photos, I would guess that the "CM"
designation is for "Connector Mating" ! There seems to be several
CMxxx designations printed on the board. If there are any numbers
printed on the actual device it may help to know.

It also makes my guess at the components value invalid !

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
"Jasen Betts" <jasen@xnet.co.nz> wrote in message news:l1onls$o1d$1@gonzo.reversiblemaps.ath.cx...
On 2013-09-23, Guv Bob <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote:
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1nihs$9b1$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 11:43 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt



Ok. That means the bulb draws about 71 mA and provides
about 200 ohms resistance when hot. If the schematic is
correct, then you can use a 22 ohm 1 watt resistor between
the transistor's collector and the bulb to replace the
existing resistor, if it's bad.

Ed

Thanks Ed. My problem is finding the transistor. The circuit
connects from pin 64 of the connector to CM104. I'm lost from there.
There's no way to know where it leads from there, and no schematic
showing where the base signal comes from.

The transistor may be internal to CM104

Hmm... I traced the pin-outs to the connector and labeled them. There's only one input from each component, so that seems to eliminate both the transistor and resistor that are in series with the light. Check this out...

I identified the pinouts on CM104 if that's any help....
http://imageshack.us/a/img580/2863/scfa.gif

Not Mitsubishi, but here's a typical block diagram from Toyota...
http://imageshack.us/a/img266/1418/q4rl.gif
 
On 9/22/2013 8:20 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1nihs$9b1$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 11:43 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt



Ok. That means the bulb draws about 71 mA and provides
about 200 ohms resistance when hot. If the schematic is
correct, then you can use a 22 ohm 1 watt resistor between
the transistor's collector and the bulb to replace the
existing resistor, if it's bad.

Ed

Thanks Ed. My problem is finding the transistor. The circuit connects from pin 64 of the connector to CM104. I'm lost from there. There's no way to know where it leads from there, and no schematic showing where the base signal comes from.

I'll keep looking for a schematic. In the meantime, I'll take the suggestion to his the junk yards.

Groan. In fact, double groan. Tracing the thing out on the ECU,
if that is possible, still might not yield the fix, because the
transistor/resistor might be good. If you could trace it to the
transistor/resistor, you could use just about any NPN transistor
to replace it and add the 22 ohm resistor, but that still might
not fix the problem. And, who's to say something else won't become
defective in the disassembly/troubleshooting/repair/reassembly
activity. Grumble.

Ed
 
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1toqk$pqp$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 8:20 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1nihs$9b1$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 11:43 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt



Ok. That means the bulb draws about 71 mA and provides
about 200 ohms resistance when hot. If the schematic is
correct, then you can use a 22 ohm 1 watt resistor between
the transistor's collector and the bulb to replace the
existing resistor, if it's bad.

Ed

Thanks Ed. My problem is finding the transistor. The circuit connects from pin 64 of the connector to CM104. I'm lost from there. There's no way to know where it leads from there, and no schematic showing where the base signal comes from.

I'll keep looking for a schematic. In the meantime, I'll take the suggestion to his the junk yards.



Groan. In fact, double groan. Tracing the thing out on the ECU,
if that is possible, still might not yield the fix, because the
transistor/resistor might be good. If you could trace it to the
transistor/resistor, you could use just about any NPN transistor
to replace it and add the 22 ohm resistor, but that still might
not fix the problem. And, who's to say something else won't become
defective in the disassembly/troubleshooting/repair/reassembly
activity. Grumble.

Ed

Ditto to that, Ed. I'm not one to give up but once I get a working ECU, I'll tear into this one and keep looking. This particular version was known to have used faulty capacitors. This is the 3rd time in 10 years I have traced the problem to the board. Unfortunately for me, there are no more caps to replace. Lots of corrosion though where I can't get to it without taking a chance on ruining something.

My comment on smog checks.... this car is WAY underneath the pollution emissions and runs like a top. Two things prevented it passing -- the check engine light and the mechanic couldn't find the timing mark. LOL!! I couldn't find it either. Had to keep tapping the engine and marking the pulley feeling every stinking 1/2 inch of the edge. Tried smearing it with oil and every other trick. Looking for it with a bright timing light wouldn't even work. Finally found it and marked it with paint, and yes the timing was exactly right where it should have been.

As much as I would like to keep it, once it's up and smogged, it's going to El Cheapo paint shop for a shiny bright red coat, adding the gaudiest wheel covers I can find, a license cover that says "BABE MAGNET" and For Sale sign and parking it right in front of the high school.
 
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1toqk$pqp$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 8:20 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1nihs$9b1$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/22/2013 11:43 AM, Guv Bob wrote:
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:yJOdnTKaYs0Gk6LPnZ2dnUVZ_radnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"ehsjr" <ehsjr@nospamverizon.net> wrote in message news:l1m8k6$2i8$1@news.eternal-september.org...
On 9/21/2013 7:46 PM, Guv Bob wrote:
The +12 from the LED connects to this component unfamiliar to me.

In your earlier post you talked about the check engine _bulb_

Now you mention an LED. Is the check engine light an LED rather
than a bulb? It makes a big difference.

Ed

Correction....
GE LIGHTING 74 LIGHT BULB
14 volts; 1 watt



Ok. That means the bulb draws about 71 mA and provides
about 200 ohms resistance when hot. If the schematic is
correct, then you can use a 22 ohm 1 watt resistor between
the transistor's collector and the bulb to replace the
existing resistor, if it's bad.

Ed

Thanks Ed. My problem is finding the transistor. The circuit connects from pin 64 of the connector to CM104. I'm lost from there. There's no way to know where it leads from there, and no schematic showing where the base signal comes from.

I'll keep looking for a schematic. In the meantime, I'll take the suggestion to his the junk yards.



Groan. In fact, double groan. Tracing the thing out on the ECU,
if that is possible, still might not yield the fix, because the
transistor/resistor might be good. If you could trace it to the
transistor/resistor, you could use just about any NPN transistor
to replace it and add the 22 ohm resistor, but that still might
not fix the problem. And, who's to say something else won't become
defective in the disassembly/troubleshooting/repair/reassembly
activity. Grumble.

Ed

May be making some progress again.....


"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:-tOdncnzcMZKY9nPnZ2dnUVZ_vWdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:KvadnTMh0fSaadnPnZ2dnUVZ_vGdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
<gontarm@gmail.com> wrote in message news:02570fa6-1f1e-4b79-80ef-ec8df96d7183@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, September 25, 2013 8:10:36 PM UTC+9:30, gon...@gmail.com wrote:
On Sunday, September 22, 2013 10:18:04 AM UTC+9:30, Guv Bob wrote:

Was having trouble focusing, but these are somewhat clear...







http://imageshack.us/a/img706/7599/6r3.gif



http://imageshack.us/a/img33/5871/wyu.gif



http://imageshack.us/a/img196/4357/4hvy.gif



http://imageshack.us/a/img27/1993/5ol.gif



http://imageshack.us/a/img713/6607/1qt.gif



http://imageshack.us/a/img708/1773/id9g.gif











"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:uoCdnefCRsBDraPPnZ2dnUVZ_sednZ2d@earthlink.com...



The +12 from the Check Engine LED (pin 64 at MPI control unit on this)....







http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7787/pdv.gif







... connects to this component unfamiliar to me. Anyone recognize it? It is labeled CM104. Can't get a clear view for a photo. Rough sketch....







http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/9116/h3yu.gif







Most connections on this part of the board are underneath parts I can't get to. No markings on it that I can see. There are 7 of these on the board, all packed close together under a metal piece which is not practical to remove.























"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:s5GdnahW-P5KUqrPnZ2dnUVZ_sqdnZ2d@earthlink.com...



Posting again - evidently there are not a lot of these old 1G's out there.







Anyway.... my problem is the Check Engine light does not illuminate. The bulb and all circuits external to the ECU board are fine. The board is also good between the 12VDC into the board from the bulb and ground. I suspect the trouble is the transistor or associated capacitor, but the board has been worked on before and the markings on these parts are no longer readable.







So, without a schematic, I wonder if someone more familiar with this type of circuit could guess at a possible replacement for the transistor and capacitor.







I know this is not the "proper" way to do it, but the alternative is buying a new ECU - several hundred $$. So I'd like to try a few things that mght have a chance of working before doing that.







Here's the only schematic I can find that shows the transisitor and resistor on the board, but no info as to what the parts are. Also, can't find what is connected to the base. I can swap out the parts from the component side of the board OK, but can't trace the leads or it would likely damage something else on the baord -- due to the condition of the board. I just need the car to pass smog so I can continue restoring the car, but dont want to put a lot of money into anything until I'm sure the car is worth it.







http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/7787/pdv.gif







Thanks in advance!







Bob











"Guv Bob" <guvbob2003@yahooooooooooooooo.com> wrote in message news:Jqydnc9-tMOyzonPnZ2dnUVZ_qednZ2d@earthlink.com...



Anyone know if one is online? Or if you have one I'll be glad to send a few $$ for a copy. I need to troubleshoot the check engine light circuit and have traced it to the ECU circuit board.







Thanks.







Bob



Hi from downunder Bob,

CM104 is merely a pack of decoupling capacitors for the signals entering/leaving the board, one cap per signal to a common ground pin. It may however be the cause of your problem though, as I see from your pics that someone has replaced the electrolytic capacitors which are renowned for leaking. They can cause much grief initially and again some years later. The electrolyte from the leaking caps can eat away the copper tracks if it hasn't been cleaned effectively. From the pics you have uploaded it looks like TR3 in the gif image wyu is the CEL lamp driver. The large flat pad should lead to a small value resistor, possibly 3.3 ohms (colour bands orange orange gold). Check for continuity between ECU terminal 64 and what should be the closest end of that low ohm resistor. If you have continuity then it might be a real component failure not just a track eaten away. I will upload a pic of an ecu I have here but the component designation numbers are different. If you can upload a downwards looking pic that covers both sides of the thick film hybrid IC101 (E518 on back) that would help.



BTW I've been searching for an ECU schematic for some years now with no success. It's all just reverse engineering.



Regards - Mark G

Here are some shots of a Galant ECU and my "Montero" which had been previously repaired - badly. Apologies in advance for the screwed up order.

http://imageshack.us/a/img19/5372/8d89.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img18/1813/fvky.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img841/3359/kr7l.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img560/3613/xe5i.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img40/672/xo.JPG
http://imageshack.us/a/img844/7601/tsmw.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img834/1067/4169.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img823/4128/bbi0.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img203/6708/be5q.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img834/4500/p2u0.jpg
http://imageshack.us/a/img843/9272/g5v9.jpg

The CEL control in both ECUs is functionally identical, only the names have been changed.

The close-ups of the CM106 location show the tracks corroded away by the remaining electrolyte.

==
Thanks, Mark! That's a great help. Here are some new photos

This photo index might help you find the ones you want to see. All except #10 are in the 800K range.
http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/9081/onvp.jpg

1
http://imageshack.us/a/img5/7053/rfby.jpg
2
http://imageshack.us/a/img22/2136/dkex.jpg
3
http://imageshack.us/a/img34/1530/dmd2.jpg
4
http://imageshack.us/a/img39/3029/4u03.jpg
5
http://imageshack.us/a/img15/858/c34r.jpg
6
http://imageshack.us/a/img203/8435/ksz5.jpg
7
http://imageshack.us/a/img59/4628/j7hh.jpg
8
http://imageshack.us/a/img46/1914/v8k6.jpg
9
http://imageshack.us/a/img818/588/a9zc.jpg
10
TR3 Closeup
http://imageshack.us/a/img585/8247/60x4.jpg

Bob

==
PS -- Checking - no continuity between pin 64 and any of TR3 contacts. Also, I checked 64 to R104 and all other transistors & resistors I could find in that part of the board and no continuity with any of them.

The trace from CM104 goes under CM105 which I can see is badly corroded. Looks like I will need to remove the power transistor heat sink, clean that up and just go one step at a time.

Stay tuned! =O)
 
On Monday, June 2, 1997 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, Chris Vosburg wrote:
I've just completed repair of a Sharp 13F-M50 13' TV, manufactured
December 1994. It, according to the owner, died one night while he slept,
and proved to be a fuse blower once it arrived here.

A bad HOT, type D1554, was isolated as the cause and replaced, all
associated fusible resistors, diodes, capacitors checked and verified as
OK. Set worked OK for a couple minutes and I thought I was done, but a
new problem appeared.

After being on for anywhere from five seconds to five minutes, (no
discernible reason for this variation, didn't seem to matter if the set
was 'cold' or 'hot'), the screen would suddenly go *bright* red with very
faint lighter horizontal stripes and picture detail disappeared; sort of
similar to the result of turning up the 'screen' control on a flyback way
too high (except of course that it was red overall, not light gray).

I assumed that I was seeing the result of the red electron gun being
suddenly and erroneously turned full on, so I resolved to troubleshoot
the problem by swapping components between the red and green video driver
circuits (on the yoke PCB). However, I never got the chance, because the
problem simply disappeared on its own and the set's now working fine
continously.

I'm kinda new at this, so I'm not sure what happened here. Why did this
happen, and more important, why (or how) did the red video overdrive
problem come to resolve itself?

I'd be grateful for any ideas or guesses from those posting and reading
here. I'm losing sleep over this!

Thanks in advance for any help provided,

-Chris

I am trying to connect mine to a sdtv box but I can't get a picture just lines do you know how to access vertical control.

Thanks
 
Dňa ťtvrtok, 1. februåra 1996 9:00:00 UTC+1 Jeff Dobkin napísal(-a):
Can anyone identify what type of UART is embedded in this IDE
controller card I.C.? The part is made by UMO and has a part number
UM82C862F. I am also looking for the maximum speed of this UART. Any
info is appreciated.

Jeff Dobkin
Dobkin@spaceapps.com

Probably it's not UMO but UMC, I may have the same card and I'm looking for jumper settings.
 
Julian,
I have a Danish language copy of the service manual for the system.
Schematic seems to be complete; you should be able to figure out everything
from that.

I can send it to you if your gmail address is capable of accepting
attachments. If not, send me another address that does and I'll send it to
you.

Dave M


Julian Bunn <jjbunn@gmail.com> wrote:
This turntable was part of an integrated system: I only have the
turntable and am trying to figure out how to make it work standalone.

However, the turntable never spins, the "Start" button has no effect.
I think this is because I am not providing the correct signals on the
pins marked "SYNC", "AF" and "STP" (shown on the main unit schematic).

Finally, pin 26 also looks like an output, some sort of current source
from Q221?

Pretty sure that pin 26 is just digital; IC152 (CPU?) outputs a signal,
IC151 inverts it, and Q221 inverts it again.

I'm at the limit of my expertise with this - can anyone suggest how to
connect pins 24,25,26?

My guess: Let 25 and 26 float.

Ground pin 24 to power supply ground in an easily-disconnectible way,
and press the "Start" button on the turntable. If nothing happens right
away, disconnect pin 24 from ground.

If grounding pin 24 didn't do anything, connect it to +12 V in an
easily-disconnectible way, and press the "Start" button on the
turntable. If nothing happens right away, disconnect pin 24 from
+12 V.

Any ideas about what "SYNC", "AF", and "STP" might mean in this
context?

I bet "STP" means "Stop". On the receiver schematic, it seems to be a
diode-OR of three things, one of which is labeled "TUNER" on IC702.
The receiver may have used this to stop the turntable when some other
source (tuner, tape) was selected. My guess is that this would have
shown up on pin 24 of J106 at the turntable.

"SYNC" may be a way for the turntable to tell the receiver that it was
ready to go, so the receiver could unmute, start a tape deck, or
something like that. On the receiver schematic, the "SYNC" line goes
(among other places) into the "muting" block, through diode D7B3. My
guess is that this is either pin 25 or 26 on the turntable.

"AF" I'm not sure of. On the receiver, it goes to "A in PLAYER" on
IC702, and also seems to be an input to a diode-OR. It may tell the
receiver that the turntable is present and on, whether or not a record
is currently playing. My guess is that this is either pin 26 or 25 on
the turntable - whichever one SYNC isn't.

Matt Roberds


--
 
Hi Dave,

I'd be most grateful for a copy of the service manual. What I already have is an extract from it with just the schematics. My email address can indeed accept attachments.

Thanks!
Julian

On Sunday, October 27, 2013 4:10:26 AM UTC-7, Dave M wrote:
Julian,

I have a Danish language copy of the service manual for the system.

Schematic seems to be complete; you should be able to figure out everything

from that.



I can send it to you if your gmail address is capable of accepting

attachments. If not, send me another address that does and I'll send it to

you.



Dave M





Julian Bunn <jjbunn@gmail.com> wrote:

This turntable was part of an integrated system: I only have the

turntable and am trying to figure out how to make it work standalone.



However, the turntable never spins, the "Start" button has no effect.

I think this is because I am not providing the correct signals on the

pins marked "SYNC", "AF" and "STP" (shown on the main unit schematic).



Finally, pin 26 also looks like an output, some sort of current source

from Q221?



Pretty sure that pin 26 is just digital; IC152 (CPU?) outputs a signal,

IC151 inverts it, and Q221 inverts it again.



I'm at the limit of my expertise with this - can anyone suggest how to

connect pins 24,25,26?



My guess: Let 25 and 26 float.



Ground pin 24 to power supply ground in an easily-disconnectible way,

and press the "Start" button on the turntable. If nothing happens right

away, disconnect pin 24 from ground.



If grounding pin 24 didn't do anything, connect it to +12 V in an

easily-disconnectible way, and press the "Start" button on the

turntable. If nothing happens right away, disconnect pin 24 from

+12 V.



Any ideas about what "SYNC", "AF", and "STP" might mean in this

context?



I bet "STP" means "Stop". On the receiver schematic, it seems to be a

diode-OR of three things, one of which is labeled "TUNER" on IC702.

The receiver may have used this to stop the turntable when some other

source (tuner, tape) was selected. My guess is that this would have

shown up on pin 24 of J106 at the turntable.



"SYNC" may be a way for the turntable to tell the receiver that it was

ready to go, so the receiver could unmute, start a tape deck, or

something like that. On the receiver schematic, the "SYNC" line goes

(among other places) into the "muting" block, through diode D7B3. My

guess is that this is either pin 25 or 26 on the turntable.



"AF" I'm not sure of. On the receiver, it goes to "A in PLAYER" on

IC702, and also seems to be an input to a diode-OR. It may tell the

receiver that the turntable is present and on, whether or not a record

is currently playing. My guess is that this is either pin 26 or 25 on

the turntable - whichever one SYNC isn't.



Matt Roberds





--
 
On Thursday, 1 July 1999 08:00:00 UTC+1, James Sweet wrote:
A friend of mine is looking for something that will play the old video
tapes that look like large VHS casettes, he's in the Olympia, WA area,
send me an email if you've got a working one lying around to get rid of.

hi I have 4 all in working order , but I live in south Yorkshire .
Ł40 for all 4. my email address is, gawilliams1941@google.com phone 07591188370 must collect
 
On Sun, 24 Nov 2013 05:18:17 -0800 (PST), gawilliams1941@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, 1 July 1999 08:00:00 UTC+1, James Sweet wrote:
A friend of mine is looking for something that will play the old video
tapes that look like large VHS casettes, he's in the Olympia, WA area,
send me an email if you've got a working one lying around to get rid of.

hi I have 4 all in working order , but I live in south Yorkshire .
Ł40 for all 4. my email address is, gawilliams1941@google.com phone
07591188370 must collect

Do you really believe James is still looking after more than 14 years?

What a hoot! OIC... A Google Grooper... sigh...
 
On Sun, 24 Nov 2013 07:46:55 -0700, Allodoxaphobia
<knock_yourself_out@example.net> wrote:

On Sun, 24 Nov 2013 05:18:17 -0800 (PST), gawilliams1941@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, 1 July 1999 08:00:00 UTC+1, James Sweet wrote:
A friend of mine is looking for something that will play the old video
tapes that look like large VHS casettes, he's in the Olympia, WA area,
send me an email if you've got a working one lying around to get rid
of.

hi I have 4 all in working order , but I live in south Yorkshire .
Ł40 for all 4. my email address is, gawilliams1941@google.com phone
07591188370 must collect

Do you really believe James is still looking after more than 14 years?

What a hoot! OIC... A Google Grooper... sigh...

Upon sharing with Ms. the humour of these old postings suddenly appearing
and how they are waaaay out of date, she just laughed and said, "That's
the result of the NSA's search programs." Thinking about it, is it
possible search programs 'stir' the pot?
 
On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 14:15:05 -0800, trader4@optonline.net wrote:

> They are *not* both valid. You have it wrong.

Well, this entire discussion is about how the power supply works, so,
it is germane to the discussion how the power company completes the
circuit.

I don't have any more arguments, and, we *do* have at least one
reference which supports my statement.

That doesn't mean I'm correct. What it means is we need more references
(either way), instead of our statements (since we all sincerely believe
what we're stating).

Googling for:
"how does electricity get back to the power company -solar"

This is on the first page (which was referenced already):
http://science.howstuffworks.com/environmental/energy/power3.htm
It agrees with what I said (on page 4).

Here it says the same thing (that the earth is the return path):
http://www.science.smith.edu/~jcardell/Courses/EGR220/ElecPwr_HSW.html

And here:
http://www.electricityforum.com/electricity-how-it-works.html

But those are all repeats. How about this Physics forum?
http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=429670

Now, that does not prove that the earth is the return path
for the electricity back to the power company, but, it is clearly
a half dozen (or so) references which say what I've always thought
was the case.

That means that the idea isn't so far fetched as it may appear.
Admittedly, most of these references were cut out of the same
mold (probably due to my search terms?), so I welcome someone
who can find a reference that says the earth is *not* the return
path for the HVAC typical power generated in the USA.
 
On Mon, 25 Nov 2013 19:13:25 -0500, Ralph Mowery wrote:

Why would the heating, ventilation and air conditioning go back to the power
generating station ?

High voltage A/C.
 
"Danny D'Amico" <dannyd@is.invalid> wrote in message
news:l70mnj$lgf$1@speranza.aioe.org...
That means that the idea isn't so far fetched as it may appear.
Admittedly, most of these references were cut out of the same
mold (probably due to my search terms?), so I welcome someone
who can find a reference that says the earth is *not* the return
path for the HVAC typical power generated in the USA.

Why would the heating, ventilation and air conditioning go back to the power
generating station ?
 
"Danny D'Amico"
Googling for:

"how does electricity get back to the power company -solar"

** The simple answer is it doesn't - so the question is absurd.

Home solar power goes nowhere until the current generated exceeds that being
consumed by the house - the excess then goes to the neighbour's houses via
the local grid.

Ground conductors plus the earth itself carry NO current UNLESS a fault
exists.

Ground conductors exist for safety reasons.

FYI:

Ask Google a crazy question = get a crazy answer.



.... Phil
 

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