Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[WEBPA]

I have Sky Digital and the picture keeps freezing up and then comes back. I
checked the signal in the menu and it is only 50% for SIGNAL QUALITY&SIGNAL
STRENGTH. I checked at my neighbours using my Sky receiver at his house and
its 100%. I bought a new LNB and its still doing the same thing ie only at
50%. What could this mean?

1. Your dish is not aimed correctly.
2. Bad cable from LNB to your receiver.
3. There is interference (RF noise) at your house sufficient to drown out the
signal.
4. If your LNB runs on a separate mains power adaptor, and you didn't take it
to your neighbor's house, then that could be bad.

webpa

 

[Sofie]

Mark D. Zacharias:
Van Gardner:
Yes ..... an absolutely correct suggestion.....
.......an easy way to check it is to rotate the capstan shaft both directions
to see if the idler gear clutch assembly swings easily and quickly back and
forth from the TU reel to the Supply reel. If not, either the clutch is
too loose because of a cracked retaining collar or the lubricant on the
pivot shaft is congealed.
Also can be a dirty mode switch...... a common malady.
These two things are the usual culprits for these and similar models of JVC
vcrs eating tapes.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
-------------------------------------------


snipped:
"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message

Had one the other day where the reel-clutch assembly needed disassembly,
cleaning and re-lubing. The thing kind of explodes when you remove the
retainer. Good luck.
Mark Z.

"Van Gardner" <vangard@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
I have a JVC VCR Model HR-DX40U that will play or record a tape but

 

[Boozo]

"Andrew Rossmann" <andysnewsreply@no_junk.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.199c817de9a9e432989747@news.comcast.giganews.com...

[This followup was posted to sci.electronics.repair and a copy was sent to
the cited author.]

In article <3f320533$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au>, boozo@bogpond.com says...
Can anyone help me with the pinouts for a Hyundai C310XU AM/FM
car radio/cassette ?
The radio was recovered from a write off and the plug and cables
were not marked for reinstallation.

Now we have a radio with 10 pins and don't know which is which !!

Is there anywhere I can get this info ?

http://www.installdr.com/

They have some info, but Hyndai wasn't specifically listed. There is
also a bulletin board that you can ask for help on.

--
If there is a no_junk in my address, please REMOVE it before replying!
All junk mail senders will be prosecuted to the fullest extent of the
law!!
http://home.att.net/~andyross

Thanks for the advice, not a bad web page.
Boozo.

 

[Boozo]

"Boozo" <boozo@bogpond.com> wrote in message
news:3f320533$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Can anyone help me with the pinouts for a Hyundai C310XU AM/FM
car radio/cassette ?
The radio was recovered from a write off and the plug and cables
were not marked for reinstallation.

Now we have a radio with 10 pins and don't know which is which !!

Is there anywhere I can get this info ?

Regards, Boozo.

"Jeff" <frontline_electronics@NSatt.net> wrote in message
news:vJBYa.91772$0v4.6231567@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...

Hyundai used several different connectors, none I have
are 10 pin.
Check with a dealer.
Jeff

Looks as though I might have to.
Thanks anyway, Boozo.

 

[William R. Walsh]

Hi!

Please note that this is not really a "binary" group. Attachments are
minorly frowned upon, but probably helpful here...

I'll make some guesses about how it's done. Try them and explore variants if
you think of any.

Numbers 1-9 and 0 are probably used for direct entry of channels.

The 1- might be used for cable channels numbered 100+ if the TV has a cable
capable tuner. I don't see a setting for that in your picture, so look
around on the TV for a switch of some kind. Make sure it's set to the type
of signal you expect to receive.

F+ and F- are most likely fine tuning.

M is probably a memory function, most likely used to put channels into the
TV's memory so you may skip all unused channels in your area when using the
Channel Up or Down buttons.

Just my guesses and worth what you paid to receive them... Good luck!

William

 

[Arnold stewart]

Patch wrote:

Probably to keep the voltage level from exceeding 30 V.

Well I know that, but don't you think that it would have been much
smarter to put in a zener below 25V?

 

[Mason121]

What could this mean?

Any trees in the in the way? I have Dish network......and when I first set it
up the signal strength was at around 100%. I didn`t think about the birch
trees in my front yard. Now those trees have grown quite a bit and are
starting to get in the line
between the dish and the satellite. My signal strength is now down to 50% in
the summer but comes back to 100% in the winter after the leaves fall off of
the trees.
Guess will have to move the dish soon.
Dan.

 

[CJT]

L1ange bleu wrote:

This may look like an stupid question but if I don't make it, then the stupid
will be me!

I have a bad capacitor in a motor that's rated as follows: 2.0MFD/260V."AC"
it's overheating and causing the motor to slow down and I've been trying a
substitute with no luck, so my question is: can I replace it with something
similar but DC i/o AC? and if so, what will be the consequences or drawbacks?
Your answers or explanations will be appreciated.
Alphie

No, you need one rated like the one you're replacing. One intended only
for DC could explode.

 

[Arnold stewart]

But this zener is connected between two pins that have only a 6 to 7
volt potential in normal operation. If the voltage were to climb to 30
volts, wouldn't the 25v cap be most likely to get damaged, probably
even short out? In that case the zener is not really helping out.

Sofie wrote:

Arnold Stewart.....

25 V Zener "smarter" ? ? ......

.......NOT really........ If the "normal" B+ after the regulation
circuitry is..... say...... 22 volts or so..... that is way to close
to a 25 Volt Zener.... most Zeners have only a 10% tolerance....
....so it could clamp anywhere from 22.5 V to 27.5 V.

ALSO.... more than likely the pre-regulated voltage is in the
order of over 30 volts..... maybe 35 volts, so a regulator failure
would definitely make the 30 Volt Zener clamp and as a result
a fuse would blow or a fusible resistor would open up.... thus
PROTECTING the down-stream circuitry.

Based on this..... the 30 Volt Zener sounds very smart to me.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
---------------------------------------

 

[Sofie]

Arnold stewar:
In the repair business (not the re-design business).... when something is
fixed, it is good and proper practice to replace the original parts with the
same value and rating..... unless of course there is a blatant error or
someone else previously botched the repair and installed in the wrong part.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
---------------------------------


"Arnold stewart" <arnold.stewart@sympatico.ca> wrote in message

But this zener is connected between two pins that have only a 6 to 7
volt potential in normal operation. If the voltage were to climb to 30
volts, wouldn't the 25v cap be most likely to get damaged, probably
even short out? In that case the zener is not really helping out.

Sofie wrote:

Arnold Stewart.....

25 V Zener "smarter" ? ? ......

.......NOT really........ If the "normal" B+ after the regulation
circuitry is..... say...... 22 volts or so..... that is way to close
to a 25 Volt Zener.... most Zeners have only a 10% tolerance....
....so it could clamp anywhere from 22.5 V to 27.5 V.

ALSO.... more than likely the pre-regulated voltage is in the
order of over 30 volts..... maybe 35 volts, so a regulator failure
would definitely make the 30 Volt Zener clamp and as a result
a fuse would blow or a fusible resistor would open up.... thus
PROTECTING the down-stream circuitry.

Based on this..... the 30 Volt Zener sounds very smart to me.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
---------------------------------------

 

[Arnold stewart]

Oh I entirely agree with you. But I was wondering about the design of
this circuit. I just didn't think it was logical.

Sofie wrote:

Arnold stewar:
In the repair business (not the re-design business).... when something is
fixed, it is good and proper practice to replace the original parts with the
same value and rating..... unless of course there is a blatant error or
someone else previously botched the repair and installed in the wrong part.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
---------------------------------


"Arnold stewart" <arnold.stewart@sympatico.ca> wrote in message

But this zener is connected between two pins that have only a 6 to 7
volt potential in normal operation. If the voltage were to climb to 30
volts, wouldn't the 25v cap be most likely to get damaged, probably
even short out? In that case the zener is not really helping out.

Sofie wrote:


Arnold Stewart.....

25 V Zener "smarter" ? ? ......

.......NOT really........ If the "normal" B+ after the regulation
circuitry is..... say...... 22 volts or so..... that is way to close
to a 25 Volt Zener.... most Zeners have only a 10% tolerance....
....so it could clamp anywhere from 22.5 V to 27.5 V.

ALSO.... more than likely the pre-regulated voltage is in the
order of over 30 volts..... maybe 35 volts, so a regulator failure
would definitely make the 30 Volt Zener clamp and as a result
a fuse would blow or a fusible resistor would open up.... thus
PROTECTING the down-stream circuitry.

Based on this..... the 30 Volt Zener sounds very smart to me.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
---------------------------------------

 

[Arthur Jernberg]

Order the tuner and have at it, if your have the technicial ability,
otherwise have a tech or a repair shop do the repair for you.
"Eric" <eeandersen@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b7758d8f.0308092042.a03bd08@posting.google.com...

Model AV-36890

Channels 2-47 receive a signal just fine and snow on the rest. PIP
tuner receives 2-125 like it should.

I could watch all the channels in PIP and only the lower channels on
main screen.

Thoughts, anyone? Obviously, there is a tuner problem; can I fix it?

 

[Alain Beguin]

"Doug Taylor" schreef het volgende op; 11/08/2003

What do you think?

Well, my idea is that not "everyone" in this group is a technician.
How do you expect an unskilled person to know "what" he has to tell?

And, about the way they write...don't you know this is accepted in
Usenet?

Best regards,

Al


--
e-mail: albeguin at village dot uunet dot be
- 2330 -

 

[Bob Shuman]

I agree with the diagnosis. I doubt it is the speaker itself, although you
can easily confirm this by attaching a different 8 ohm speaker to where the
ear speaker is currently connected. (You might also check to see if you can
still use a headphone jack if this phone is so equipped). Most likely there
is a broken solder connection in the output amplification circuitry. If you
can get the board exposed while it is operating, try pushing on the various
surface mount devices with something that is non conductive (a small
diameter wooden dowel or plastic rod) to see if you can find the broken
solder joint. (Note that there are most likely devices soldered on both
sides of this board). If you can find the break, then you can carefully
touch it up using a small tip on a regulated soldering iron. If the board
itself is broken (less likely, but possible), then assuming it is in a
repairable area (just one or two severed circuit traces, you can scrape the
solder mask off the traces and solder wire across the broken trace(s).

Good luck!

Bob

"Mark D. Zacharias" <mzacharias@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:rs4Za.3886$M6.272695@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...

Probably a cracked circuit board or broken solder connection(s).
Mark Z.
sponger9@comcastONOSPAM.net> wrote in message
news:mqj8jvco58onmh2dn71qj1d6sonb71m08g@4ax.com...
{Old message posted 2002-09-13 in comp.dcom.telecom}
Hi all,
Writing in as a last resort to find out how I can fix this phone. It's
a Panasonic Cordless Speakerphone with both a base and handset dialing
keypad. Has been working great until yesterday, when the handset fell
and hit hard on the ground. When I press the 'TALK' button on the
handset, all the LEDs on the phone light up as if it's working, I can
even dial a number on the handset and turn on the speakerphone and
it'll be working fine -- all the features on the handset works
absolutely ok except the sound from the earpiece. There is NO dialtone
on the earpiece.

I opened the handset unit, and there are absolutely no broken parts,
the LEDs light up fine, even the handset on-screen display works
great, you can program and all -- just as if nothing happened, but
there wouldn't be 'any' noise from the earpiece unit.
fine, plus cost about a couple of hundred bucks.

Any suggestions will be most helpful,

Thanks in advance,
Nataraj Dasgupta.

 

[Kalman Rubinson]

On Mon, 11 Aug 2003 10:39:39 -0700, Alan Peterman <al@scn.rain.com>
wrote:

If you'll notice, when I started this discussion of antiskate, I said that I use
BOTH methods (blank record and test grooves), and average them. While I can see
that the test grooves are a better way, they also have a limitation in that most
records are not modulated to anywhere near that level. And the drag, and
corresponding antiskate are related to groove modulation.

And the blank disc is not modulated at all! Averaging an approximate
measure with an inaccurate one does not improve the approximation.

Kal


>OK?

 

[Tweetldee]

"CJT" <cheljuba@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:3F371ECE.1070508@prodigy.net...

L1ange bleu wrote:

This may look like an stupid question but if I don't make it, then the
stupid
will be me!

I have a bad capacitor in a motor that's rated as follows:
2.0MFD/260V."AC"
it's overheating and causing the motor to slow down and I've been trying
a
substitute with no luck, so my question is: can I replace it with
something
similar but DC i/o AC? and if so, what will be the consequences or
drawbacks?
Your answers or explanations will be appreciated.
Alphie

No, you need one rated like the one you're replacing. One intended only
for DC could explode.

And in addition, your replacement capacitor should be one that's rated for
motor run duty. There are also capacitors that are used in motor starting
duty, but they are usually not suitable for motor run duty. The reason for
the difference is that a motor start capacitor only has to handle the high
AC current for a very short period of time, whereas the motor run capacitor
must be able to sustain the AC current on a continuous basis.
When you buy the replacement, be sure that it's the correct type.
Cheers!!!!
--
Tweetldee
Tweetldee at att dot net (Just subsitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Time is what keeps everything from happening all at once.

 

[Alain Beguin]

"Wayne Tiffany" schreef het volgende op; 11/08/2003

Proper spelling and grammar are important to those that care, and that's
usually the ones that will notice the difference. In the context of this
forum, those are also, most likely, the ones that provide help. (End of
soapbox.)

Hello,

I appreciaty your answer very much, as a Belgium citizen it is, even
for me, sometimes very difficult to apply correct grammar...
I have one advantage, I was technician on Long Island (Lafayette Radio)
back in 1964...

It is not possible anymore, this is my opinion, to fight this lack of
education or selfdiscipline.
My daughter is a teacher and sometimes she shows me some
schoolwork...it is not at all to compare with what we had to do back in
de 50's or earlyer.
Altough I completely agree with what you wrote, I also did educate my
kids that way, I really doubt that we still could change anything about
this.
(This could become a "very" long discussion)

Is this "the conflict of the generations"?

Best regards,

Alain


--
e-mail: albeguin at village dot uunet dot be
- 2330 -

 

[JURB6006]

I find it suprising that you used what I thought was an American slang term. In
American English and English the term "kid" means a baby goat. It seems to me
that it has been adopted as a "pet" name for men and womens' children because
children will put almost anything in their mouth.

Of course it is better than rugrats.

JURB

 

[Sofie]

OlEnSh / CB:
The problem needs to be "fixed".... (i.e. replace faulty parts) ... NOT
adjusted. If the faulty parts are not replaced soon, more expensive damage
may result. More than likely there are high esr or otherwise faulty
electrolytics near and around the vertical deflection amp circuitry. There
could be other problems too, like faulty, dry, cracked solder connections
around the high heat producing components, and there could be faulty
semiconductors too.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
-----------------------------------


"OlEnSh" <ngcb@pc.jaring.nospam.my> wrote in message

A few lines of the top of my TV screen seem to have gone missing i.e
dissappeared out of the display. If it was a computer monitor, I can
adjust
it using the V-size setting. Is there a similar setting on televisions?
I found that my TV (Samsung) has the following adjustable settings when in
service mode (invoked using the remote).
AGC - Auto Gain Control, PSL - PAL vertical SLope, PVS - PAL Vertical
Shift,
PVA - PAL Vertical Amplitude, PHS - PAL Horizontal Shift, NSL - NTSC
vertical SLope, NVS - NTSC Vertical Shift, NVA - NTSC Vertical Amplitude,
NHS - NTSC Horizontal Shift.
Would adjusting any of these help? Or is the problem with the electronics
circuitry?
Thanks
-CB

 

[Digi Man]

The service mode will be usefull when the faulty parts have been replaced
(to calibrate tv with the new parts).
As you already have told, if you continoue working this way, you will
increase the damage to your pocket.

The computer monitors are multisync and need calibration when you change the
source (video card in the computer). This is why it is too easy to change
the settings.

"OlEnSh" <ngcb@pc.jaring.nospam.my> wrote in message
news:bh9q62$eld$2@news5.jaring.my...

Hi,
A few lines of the top of my TV screen seem to have gone missing i.e
dissappeared out of the display. If it was a computer monitor, I can
adjust
it using the V-size setting. Is there a similar setting on televisions?
I found that my TV (Samsung) has the following adjustable settings when in
service mode (invoked using the remote).
AGC - Auto Gain Control, PSL - PAL vertical SLope, PVS - PAL Vertical
Shift,
PVA - PAL Vertical Amplitude, PHS - PAL Horizontal Shift, NSL - NTSC
vertical SLope, NVS - NTSC Vertical Shift, NVA - NTSC Vertical Amplitude,
NHS - NTSC Horizontal Shift.

Would adjusting any of these help? Or is the problem with the electronics
circuitry?

Thanks
-CB