Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Sun, 12 Mar 2006 13:03:00 +0100, "Peter Hofmann"
<peter.hofmann@teleweb.at> put finger to keyboard and composed:

Thanks for info. I believe that this chip is a baud rate generator
(mc14411??- 28pins ???) ...
Click to expand...
The MC14411 has 24 pins.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
Just to clarify my question, I only want to know if the centre pin of the 3v
input power socket is negative or positive.
Thank you.

David
 
Look to the delay line, IIRC DL202, but it should be easy to locate. Signal
in, signal out?

Leonard

"Karen Ray-Stewart" <karen.ray-stewart@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:vwlQf.35042$Qh1.196554@news20.bellglobal.com...
Yes little lumanance a very dim pic when you turn up the screen on the
flyback it does nothing to improve it. It is on all inputs video 1 and the
tuner(UHF-VHF).



"Leonard Caillouet" <nospam@noway.com> wrote in message
news:_plQf.186$k82.83@bignews3.bellsouth.net...

"Karen Ray-Stewart" <karen.ray-stewart@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:O3lQf.35030$Qh1.195483@news20.bellglobal.com...
I am working on a 31" mitsubishi model # CS-31205c It has a very dim
raster with no audio. The OSD works fine.any suggestions

James

Troubleshooting? Which inputs are you using? When you say dim raster,
do you mean little luma?

Leonard
Click to expand...
 
The SONY Direct View CRT that I have had the pleasure to change were all
shipped standing up. Vertically in the packing materials. Makes a 36" a bit
pf a pain to remove from the shipping carton tho. Their projection tubes,
not having the arperature grill, are shipped face up, down, or sideways
depending on how UPS throws the cartons into the truck.
"Leonard Caillouet" <no@no.com> wrote in message
news:1%5Rf.87507$bF.15484@dukeread07...
Don't they come face down when Sony ships a replacement CRT?

Leonard


"Michael Kennedy" <Mikek400@remthis.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:UcqdnSBJmPNbE4nZnZ2dnUVZ_smdnZ2d@comcast.com...
Thats good info to know..

I was pretty sure you could transport regular CRT tubes face down.. (I
have done this).. Didn't think about trinitrons being any different.

- Mike


"Bob" <bobsjunkmail@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:G5PQf.4861$HV2.3011@bignews1.bellsouth.net...

"Andy Cuffe" <acuffe@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:rku6121fgna1gsahirfi1rc7btjig21tih@4ax.com...


There's nothing wring with transporting a TV on it's front.

Also, having the heavy CRT sitting face down puts less stress on the
cabinet and CRT mounting. Replacement CRTs are usually shipped face
down.
acuffe@gmail.com

If you transport a Sony face down, there is a good chance that you will
snap the mask support wires in the CRT. If you look closely, you can see
thin dark strips about a third of the way from the top and the bottom of
the face of the CRT. NEVER transport a Sony Trinitron of any size face
down.
Click to expand...
 
Hi, just starting in troubleshooting and repair - can anyone recommend
some links for advice on fixing digital camera's etc?.

Thanks
 
saturnlee@yahoo.com wrote:

Anyone know how to desolder SMD capacitor without having desoldering
station?

SMD capacitor Picture
http://eddie.dyec.com.tw/diy-products/caps/cap_image/panasonic_cap.jpg
Click to expand...
I would use two soldering irons, one in each hand, to heat both pins at
once. For at least one of the irons, an Antex brand might do well, they
are cheap and much better than most of the irons at that price. You might
already have a good iron to use in your other hand.

Chris
 
SAMMY HCL4715W - no L/R convergence adj. on RED & adv. menu Q's

Only 1 message in topic - view as tree
From: 427Cobraman - view profile
Date: Tues, Sep 20 2005 9:14 pm
Email: "427Cobraman" <quartermiler1...@yahoo.com>
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Hey all,

Working on a Samsung RPTV (HD) with no adjustability of RED crt
convergence. Up/Dn works but no Lt/Rt adjustment. This is the case
whether in user convergence menu or advanced convergence menu. All
other colors are fine. Does this sound like the convergence IC? Also,
when using advanced convergence menu, which key saves settings? Thanks,



Alex



UPDATE:
Replaced BOTH convergence IC's (STK392-040) and unit works perfect.

Alex
 
I have an ignis ADL 834 dishwasher which does not heat the water ,as it
is a built in unit i took a flyer on it being the heating element which
it was not.Does anyone have any ideas or a schematic for this machine
please. The machine fills with water takes detergent and then stays on
wash cycle forever ,i guess its waiting for a signal to say that its up
to temperature before it moves on .Any advice appreciated.

Regards

Steve Welham
 
"Bart Bervoets" <nekobe@online.be> wrote in message
news:dv5ofi$62j$1@ctb-nnrp2.saix.net...
I want to charge a 12V lead cell as used in security systems
in my car to use with an inverter.
I want to feed it a constant charge to allow the battery to
be full all the time.
Do i need to build a special charge circuit or will a
diode in front be sufficient to stop reverse flow to my car
battery?

Bart Bervoets
Click to expand...
'probably' your best bet would be to install a "DBI" (dual battery
isolator).

this is a solid state device that is basically a bridge rectifier. diodes
steer the charging currents to the batteries and tell the regulator when to
kick in.

IME this works best when the 2 batteries are closely matched as to capacity.
 
On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 17:01:07 +0200, "Bart Bervoets" <nekobe@online.be>
wrote:

I want to charge a 12V lead cell as used in security systems
in my car to use with an inverter.
I want to feed it a constant charge to allow the battery to
be full all the time.
Do i need to build a special charge circuit or will a
diode in front be sufficient to stop reverse flow to my car
battery?

Bart Bervoets
Click to expand...
Can you provide details of the battery and the inverter? Also what are
you powering from the inverter?

If you are using a lead acid automotive battery similar in capacity to
your normal vehicle battery then all you need is a dual battery
isolator such as available from http://www.redarc.com.au/

A smart charge controller such as the Arrid dual charge controller
shown here is also an option
http://www.12volt.com.au/General%20Htmls/webcat2003/batterys.html

This way your vehicle alternator will keep both batteries fully
charged.
 
On 13 Mar 2006 23:27:31 -0800, "stevew"
<stevewelham@coolkeeran.seriouslyinternet.com> wrote:

I have an ignis ADL 834 dishwasher which does not heat the water ,as it
is a built in unit i took a flyer on it being the heating element which
it was not.Does anyone have any ideas or a schematic for this machine
please. The machine fills with water takes detergent and then stays on
wash cycle forever ,i guess its waiting for a signal to say that its up
to temperature before it moves on .Any advice appreciated.

Regards

Steve Welham
Click to expand...
It is quite possible that the temperature sensor is faulty or a wire
has come off it. It may also have become dislodged from its mounting
clip so that it is no longer physically in contact with the metal
base.

This is the sensor switch
http://www.partmaster.co.uk/cgi-bin/product.pl?PID=533233&section=0
 
On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 17:01:07 +0200, "Bart Bervoets" <nekobe@online.be> wrote:

I want to charge a 12V lead cell as used in security systems
in my car to use with an inverter.
I want to feed it a constant charge to allow the battery to
be full all the time.
Do i need to build a special charge circuit or will a
diode in front be sufficient to stop reverse flow to my car
battery?
Click to expand...
There is a kit available in Australia for an automotive charger for sealed lead
acid batteries. It uses a switchmode DC-DC converter to step up the output so
that an adequate (and controlled) charge will result for variable input voltage.
Highly recommend you go this route.
 
Ok Jason ...I have done many and now always change all of them.
Check the socket were the Module plugs in resolder both the
socket and plug sections just to be safe.
What I did first was to photograph the Module so ,as when installing them
I didn't put any in backwards and good job I did because one time
I put one in backwards,best double check your work.

kip

"Jason D." <sparklemagicdust@aim.com> wrote in message
news:44162efc.427813687@news1.on.sympatico.ca...
On Mon, 13 Mar 2006 19:49:15 -0500, "kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote:

Jason How Many Caps Did You Replace On The Board ?
kip
"Jason D." <sparklemagicdust@aim.com> wrote in message
news:4416075a.417666859@news1.on.sympatico.ca...
Did the capacitors replacement in the hyper module got the color back
except I have noise horizontal lines across image on whole screen. It
goes away gradually as TV runs for several minutes after cold start
up.

Seen this before?

Cheers, Wizard


Kip, all of them, made sure to use computer grade caps. Including 11
10uF 16V caps.

Cheers, Wizard
Click to expand...
 
"n cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:dv6hlk$o72$1@inews.gazeta.pl...
n cook <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in message
news:dv6aiu$fdl$1@inews.gazeta.pl...
Intermittant loss of signal to one channel
I have the service manual for these classic record decks but there's very
little on the tone-arm.
Does anyone know how to remove the collar that locks the standard
cartridge
headshell plug/socket to the tone-arm.
The headshell is no longer locked tight, the collar and headshell can
move
slightly on the end of the tonearm and only forcing the headshell in a
(in
to deck centre ) direction will make reliable contact to the sprung
contacts
inside the tone-arm part of the connection.
Or any other advice ?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



I eventually saw 2 watchmakers screws on the under side of the arm and
managed to find a small enough and angled enough screwdriver to remove.
Have now been able to remove the end of the arm. I can only assume that
due
to very light spring action on each of the recessed springs that it
doesn't
take much bunching of the wires in the arm to interfere with the spring
action so breaking contact.


If you get stuck with this, the whole tone arm is available from Panasonic
Click to expand...
at a very reasonable price - about 30 quid as I recall from last time I had
to get one.

Arfa
 
"Sam Goldwasser" <sam@saul.cis.upenn.edu> wrote in message
news:6wacbtta71.fsf@saul.cis.upenn.edu...
No way no how are you going to get repeatable movement of 1 micron with
the motor driven mechanism from an optical pickup. Period. Sorry, 1
micron
is an incredibly small distance. The thickness of the grease film on
the gears is probably much greater. The backlash is probably 100 times
greater. The motor itself can't be controlled to within orders of
magnitude
of this precision.

Even 10 microns is not likely. The mechanisms in a CD or DVD player
optical
pickup don't need to be this precise since the fine tracking feedback
takes
care of fine movement.

The fine tracking coil movement could be controlled to 1 micron but it
will
require some sort of feedback. For example, it would be theoretically
possible to reflect the beam from the pickup off of a grating and back
to the photodiode array in the optical pickup and then
combine the coarse and fine tracking as done in a CD or DVD player to
move the lens in increments of 1 micron or even less over a distance
of 2 or 3 cem. But this won't help you easily move anything much
more massive than the lens because the bulk of what moves does so in
coarse steps.

There are all kinds of mechanisms for doing this as you are probably
aware.
Some of the most precise use piezo electric actuators and are capable of
repeatable linear movement measured in nanometers. Of course, they are
not cheap.

Somewhat less precise but perhaps adequate would be micrometer driven
linear slides used in optical systems and elsewhere. You can probably
pick up something on eBay for very little cost that would be much much
better than anything derived from the CD or DVD player.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included
in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
Click to expand...
You're probably right Sam, but he's not trying to use the deck in its '
original ' form. If you look at the top of the post, he's already got a
motor microstepping, so all the feedback and servo stuff of a deck in '
normal ' use is not relevant to his question, except to explain, as I did in
the first place, that the mechanics of a CD player do not handle the
micromovement of the lens, on their own. All he is trying to do is to
convert the fine microstepping of his motor to a linear motion. I'm pretty
sure that all you say about play in the mechanism is right, and he probably
won't get the order of precision that he's looking for. Certainly, he
wouldn't from a CD transport, but the tolerances of the mechanics are much
better with DVDs, and I would have thought that as it should be a fairly
simple job to interface his ( already tightly controlled ) motor to the
deck, it's got to be worth a try, if only to prove that it's not going to be
accurate enough.

Arfa
 
Back to the original query, you can buy a video-motion activator that is
inserted into the video line between the camera and the monitor. It
simply looks for changes in the video scene, and closes a switch when it
detects one. The switch, of course, is what cues the VCR or whatever.

I have one of these lying around somewhere. The size and position of
the "active frame" is adjustable on-screen, so you eliminate false trips
from someone who walks by on the sidewalk but doesn't approach your car,
for example. And as I recall, the sensitivity (the amount of motion
required in order to trip the switch) is also adjustable.

Seems to me I bought 2 B&W vidicon-based cameras, a monitor, a 4-camera
switcher, and this motion detector, for $250 several years ago. These
days, with solid-state cameras, the whole thing would be less. Since
all you need is the video-motion-detector, it ought to be way cheap.

Bill
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Jumpster Jiver wrote:

William R. Walsh wrote:

Hi!


If it were you, which actions will you take to prevent this agony?



In addition to the other suggestions, please be careful - if this person
is willing to damage your property for whatever reason (personal
differences, revenge, anger, etc.), the may also try to turn it into a
physical altercation if you try to reason with him/her.
When you do catch the person, your best bet might be to confrony them in
a public place and hand them a copy of the tape, then offer to drop the
matter if your damages are fully paid for. You might want a friend to
record the full conversation to prove that you did not threaten the
person with violence, or try to blackmail thtem for more money.
Then if the refuse to pay you and not let it happen again, or accuse you
of any of the previously listed crimes, go directly to the police with
your evidence of the car scratching crimes.

Also seek the advice of an attorney, because following my advice and
video recording a conversation without the other party's knowledge may
be a crime.

But videotaping your own property to catch a vandal is NOT a crime and
can only do you good. Repainting a car is very expensive and if it
costs that much it may be considered a more serious crime, which may
warrant jail time, fines, and restitution to you for your expenses. Good
luck.
Click to expand...
 
On 11 Mar 2006 14:48:30 -0800, "Cartrivision1" <doidy1@juno.com>
wrote:

Hi, I have a Bang & Olufsen Beocenter 7700 system. It is an "all in
one" center with turntable, FM tuner, and tape deck. It is rated at
40w x 2. It has hookups for 2 sets of speakers.

I bought this thing called a Quatravox Synthesizer, which is some kind
of 70's surround sound/quadraphonic processor. It is supposed to turn
a 2 channel system into a 4 channel. I hooked it up to my system to 2
sets of bookshelf speakers, one set is a Baby Advent II, and the other
set came from a Mitsubishi bookshelf system. The latter set handles 80
watts. When I turn my stereo up past around 36 for a length of time
(it goes to 60 I think) the receiver will power itself down.

I remember hearing about amplifier clipping and I am wondering if this
is what is going on? That the receiver is not putting out enough power
to drive the speakers. The Beocenter does have a set of what looks
like RCA plugs on the back labeled "Preamp Left/Right Out". I am not
sure exactly what these do. Can anybody shed any light on my
situation?


thanks
CTV
Click to expand...

Some receivers become unstable using the Quatravox. When Dynaco
released the original version back in the 70s, we would get in
receivers with blown up power amps from using this device. Chuck
 
for a MAME project I bought a 21" toshiba tube with microview brand
chase board and neck board to go with it - all Bband New from a guy who
also builds MAME cabs. I've put these bits together and the resulting
picture is flawed. 2 major problems i can see are;

- Picture comes up but it looks like the contrast is too high. the
blacks don't look very black.

- Intermittently the monitor will go all white, u can still just make
out the picture underneath but it's not usable. White overpowers
everything. This comes and goes.

Admittedly, i did plug the degaussing coil into the wrong spot to begin
with and have just sorted that out now. Unsure if i've damaged
anything.

BTW, to interface to this monitor i had to cut up a VGA cable and
connect the R,G,B,H & V cables directly to the neck board. I'm just
using header pins to connect it. Should i solder them directly onto
the pins. I've tried using the earth from the VGA cable also, this
doesn't seem to make too much difference.

Any ideas / things to look for to repair or troubleshoot?

Thanks!

gaz
 
I don't want to interrupt your outburst (heck we all have to let it out
at times), but let me point out several things:

1) Another poster posted a picture of a similar supply, which I
confirmed had the same type of fuse, and which I assumed everyone had
access to refer to. It was pointed out to me that not everyone has a
news reader configured to display inline images.

2) Why on earth would I have mistaken the holder for the fuse if there
were a fuse in it to begin with?

3) I can't buy the correct fuse locally. I either waste several
dollars on shipping for a single order, or I wait until I have a batch
of parts for several projects that I need to order.

4) I have "dabbled" in electronics for at least the past 15 years and
have never run across this type of fuse holder, ergo, at least one
statement regarding my lack of intelligence is false. "Electronics" is
a big and diverse field.

5) Apologies for the image link, but this is the fuse holder I am
talking about that I do in fact see in almost everything I have
repaired. I would be extremely surprised if you have not:
http://www.epn-online.com/images/editorial/33/11/P-11035.JPG
 
I have a thermal paper, SHARP (UX-1xx series) fax machine that gives
'paper jam' error messages, when there is no paper jam.
Could it be SENSOR related?
I tried checking it out. It keeps cycling the paper, cutting pieces out.
Click to expand...
My Sharp UX FAX was doing the same thing... spitting out chunks of paper at
random, beeping, and indicating "paper out" when it wasn't. Turned out to
be an intermittant microswitch, the one that senses when the case is opened.
It was buried in the bottom. Rather than gut the thing to get to it, I just
"exercised" it a bit with a plastic tool (clicked it repeatedly to clean the
contacts inside). That worked. No more wasted paper. :)

Ray
--

My return addy is spamblocked. To reply, remove the zeroes.
 
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