Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Jim Yanik]

"N Cook" <diverse8@gazeta.pl> wrote in news:g9md8a$m7u$1@inews.gazeta.pl:

and place the screen surface down on cardboard , not concrete, before
knocking the hole in

it should just take a tap,anyways. the pip is pretty thin,IMExperience.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Jim Yanik]

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
news:kfftb45hoencb3k5t0s12ni3f88dr2oa2n@4ax.com:

On Wed, 03 Sep 2008 09:34:45 -0500, "AshTray700" <ashtray700@aol.com
wrote:

I have a huge CRT that i need to stabalize so it can be removed and
trashed, ive left them in the garrage under vacuum and had one implode
into 1000's of glass shards, is there a way to vent air in without
breaking it all to pecies?

Ummm... put the CRT inside a few layers of plastic trash bag before
releasing the vacuum perhaps? If it breaks, at least it doesn't make
a huge mess.

Managing Cathode Ray Tubes
http://www.dtsc.ca.gov/HazardousWaste/upload/HWM_FS_CRT-EmergencyRegs.p
df

I used to take the old CRT's out to the desert for target practice.
(This was in the 1960's before ecology was invented). In most cases,
I just punched a hole in the funnel area and did not catastrophically
implode. So, with the supreme overconfidence of an 18 year old, I aim
for the face of a large round CRT from about 5 meters away. Upon
firing, I was showered with tiny particles of broken glass. I also
saw the electron gun flying over my shoulder. Fortunately nobody was
hurt.

while in a USAF PMEL lab,I saw a guy trying to tap loose a stuck scope CRT
from a 500 series scope on a cart,and launched the CRT out the front like a
torpedo,and it burst and threw glass all over.No one was hurt,though.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Arfa Daily]

<stratus46@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:b0b1c2ad-7b54-4caa-80eb-0ef996cfe518@r15g2000prd.googlegroups.com...
AshTray700 wrote:

I have a huge CRT that i need to stabalize so it can be removed and
trashed, ive left them in the garrage under vacuum and had one
implode
into 1000's of glass shards, is there a way to vent air in without
breaking it all to pecies?

We let the vacuum out of old CRTs by puncturing the anode terminal
with a sharp ice pick (actually a ground down Xcelite 'greenie') and a
light tap. No broken glass and it feels cool when you put your finger
over the anode terminal. Don't know about other tubes as all we have
are Sonys.

G˛

Back when I were a yoof, and elf 'n' safety legislation was just some petty
bureaucrat's eye-twinkle, we just used to take 'em outside, and remove the
whole neck with a well-aimed kick ...

Happy days ...

Arfa

 

[Jim Yanik]

jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in
news:7VJvk.21619$IB6.11347@bignews8.bellsouth.net:

cuhulin@webtv.net wrote:
You shouldn't breath/inhale whatever is inside of those tubes.
cuhulin
........................
Sarah Palin Rocks!
........................

Yeah, vacuum is dangerous to...uh, breathe?

jak

the phosphors are unhealthy to inhale.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"Gary L. Woodruff" <woodruffrepair@frontiernet.net> wrote in message
news:XqUvk.1274$KU6.483@fe087.usenetserver.com...

Help! I have a RCA M134C chassis that is DOA. No standby etc. Fuse blows
when power applied. Any help is appreciated.

thanks, Gary

Did you know that there is this website called Sam Goldwasher's Repair
F.A.Q.?

http://repairfaq.org/sam/tvfaq.htm#tvtvbfuse

 

[Stacey Chuffo]

"hr(bob) hofmann@att.net" <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:8eef622d-9339-481b-93e5-8572659c1539@z66g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 4, 10:59 pm, SQ <onestatus...@yahoo.com> wrote:

X-No-Archive: Yes

I have a 24" LCD, Dell UltraSharp 2408WFP.

I have a child in the family that got mad and poured about half a
gallon of water on top of it.

At first, it turned on and displayed mostly everything OK except that
there was this shady area at the bottom.

Now half an hour later it turns on and immediately turns off. It also
makes this hissing sound.

Is this monitor permanently gone or will the water dry up and it will
start working again?

I put it in front of a window fan for now.

I'd also dock the kid's allowance for the nextr couple of years!!!!

I'd rather lock the kid in a parked car on a hottest day of the year.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

Part of the problem with pouring water into electronics is that the water --
unless distilled -- contains conductive substances that can cause
"misbehavior" or out-and-out damage.

You should not have turned it on before properly cleaning and drying it. You
might have turned a fixable problem into irreparable damage.

Basically, the unit needs to opened, thoroughly flushed with _distilled_
(not deionized) water, then properly dried. This is no guarantee it will
work, but I know of no other approach.

PS: I know you didn't ask for advice, but your child needs to be severely
punished (not necessarily corporal), and needs lessons in self-discipline.
And if neither of those works, beat him until he screams.

 

[GMAN]

In article <55e99063-026d-4cfa-9b3e-85b9b8454197@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>, SQ <onestatusquo@yahoo.com> wrote:

X-No-Archive: Yes

I have a 24" LCD, Dell UltraSharp 2408WFP.

I have a child in the family that got mad and poured about half a
gallon of water on top of it.

At first, it turned on and displayed mostly everything OK except that
there was this shady area at the bottom.

Now half an hour later it turns on and immediately turns off. It also
makes this hissing sound.

Is this monitor permanently gone or will the water dry up and it will
start working again?

I put it in front of a window fan for now.
The first mistake YOU did was to even consider powering on that thing for at

least a couple of days and even then there might have still been water in it.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Travis Evans" <travisgevans.cox@net> wrote in message
news:vtmwk.40895$Rs1.31894@newsfe08.iad...

Arfa Daily wrote:
You've got me thinking now about my Sky+ box. The HDD definitely does not
run all the time. You can clearly hear it when it is running. However,
live TV pause and rewind is always available. I wonder how that could be,
unless the disc is run at a much slower speed that you can't hear, for
the
purposes of real time writing. If you are feeding it with a steady
compressed data stream, I guess it doesn't need to be rotating at full
speed does it ? Do HDDs have more than one speed ? Come to think of it, I
can't recall the drives in this machine ever sounding like they ramp down
to any different speed, unlike the DVD writer, which of course does. I'll
have to see what I can find on the 'net about these boxes.

Just a wild guess, but maybe it has an internal RAM store that it uses to
buffer data to for a while when the HDD is not running? With heavy
compression, a few hundred megs could possibly hold a fairly sizeable
amount of video.

--
Travis Evans
[Obtain email address by swapping at sign and period.]

I guess that's a possibility. There doesn't seem to be much technical data
available on the 'net. I used to work on analogue sat boxes, and digital
ones before they introduced these clever recording features, but have not
had much cause to get involved with the latest generation of HDD-based PVRs,
so actually know little of the principles involved.

Arfa

 

[mark krawczuk]

thin smear of silicone sealant.


"Dave Platt" <dplatt@radagast.org> wrote in message
news:n8mnl5-ol1.ln1@radagast.org...

I have a good watch but it has developed a leak, Is there any house
hold type of ingredient that I could use to help the gasket seal
better. thanks.

JB Weld will fix anything.

Other than traffic tickets, that is. JB Weld has clear ethical standards!

For something a trifle less permanent than epoxy... I'd simply replace
the gasket. The instructions which came with my watch recommend
replacing the rear-plate O-ring gasket periodically (every few
years)... I imagine that the elastomer compresses, and becomes less
resilient with age, and thus doesn't seal as well.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Josh9.0" <squalene9er@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:3e4007f6-08f8-46d2-b31b-73d466f5bca4@k7g2000hsd.googlegroups.com...

Hi.
I recently bought a 2nd-hand Roland HP-860 electronic piano (88-key,
analogue).
It has a louder hum than the piano notes.

I'd like to fix it myself. I have been learning electronics most of my
life & I'm in the 3rd year of Electronics Trades at TAFE NSW
(Australia).

I've removed the plug from the final stage PCB (Revo board), and the
amplifier is quiet. This makes me think that somewhere before the amp,
there is hum being made.
I could poke around with my CRO, but I wouldn't know what to look for.

This piano has heaps of boards, for which I've worked out most of the
features.

I could try replacing all the aluminum electrolytic caps, but that
could just be a waste of time.
It was made some where between the late 70's and early 80's.

I looked for date codes, and only found 1, I think.

This piano uses a wiring loom design, with some PCBs using plugs, but
most are wired up (soldered).

To see pics of it, search Google images for
"roland hp-860"
use quotes and thaisecondhand.com has the pictures.
NOTE: I have the 240VAC version.

Please help!
TIA

Have you looked at the power supplies with your scope? Here's your chance
to put those 3 years of education to good use.




Gareth.

 

[bg]

EricM wrote in message ...

Does anyone happen to have a data sheet or know the pinout of a UTC
HA-100 input transformer? It has 11 pins; 1 through 10 and a
ground. The particular unit I have was removed from something prior
to my owning it and has pins 8 & 9 shorted, 10 and ground shorted, and
3 & 4 shorted. No wire fragments or anything to go by. Wanting to
use is as an input transformer in a solid state NE5534 opamp circuit -
maybe barking up the wrong tree? Need something to take a line level
signal and match to the input of the 5534. Others have suggested
using an older transformer like this one for improved sound quality
but might not be right for the application. Could tell if I just had
info on the pinout. Anyone have access to this information? Thanks!

I think this transformer was used for 600/250 ohm input to the grid of a
tube amp. It probably isn't going to be a good fit for a 5534.
Primary 1 -
pin 6 = hot side
pin 2 = ct
pin 4 = low side
Primary 2 -
pin 3 = hot side
pin 5 = ct
pin 1 = low side
Secondary 1 -
pin 7 = hot
pin 9 = low
Secondary 2 -
pin 8 = hot
pin 10 = low

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Josh9.0" <squalene9er@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b5bb74fd-fccb-4579-a414-fa7ac9e673cd@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...

No I haven't!
Thanks for the tip, and thanks for the quick reply!
I'll go and try it now.
It has a bunch of different voltages out, and they're labelled on the
PCB!
I guess I should look for ripple on what should be DC, right??
Then trace it back to the offending cap(s).
Then go buy some new ones of those only.

BTW: It has a main voltage going to all the keys of 46V which measures
43V.

You seem to be jumping to lots of conclusions for no apparent reason.
This is not going to help you.


What's with this "offending caps" businsess? You seem to have decided there
is a cap problem and replacing them will be the solution.
Stop guessing, it will get you nowhere.

You need to investigate and gather information. You start with the power
supplies, If they are OK then you look elsewhere.



Gareth.

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:8436c4143oji42mcdl8ojesrdvordfl9lj@4ax.com...

On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 14:36:12 -0700 (PDT), "Josh9.0"
squalene9er@hotmail.com> wrote:

No I haven't!
Thanks for the tip, and thanks for the quick reply!
I'll go and try it now.
It has a bunch of different voltages out, and they're labelled on the
PCB!
I guess I should look for ripple on what should be DC, right??

Sounds good.

Then trace it back to the offending cap(s).
Then go buy some new ones of those only.

BTW: It has a main voltage going to all the keys of 46V which measures
43V.

Ba-ding... Now I wonder why that voltage is low? Could it be, oh,
maybe... A bad filter cap?

Er, what exactly is this 46 volts supposed to be doing? I doubt there is
anything like 46 volts anywhere near the keyboard.

Please try again.



Gareth.

 

[Gareth Magennis]

"Josh9.0" <squalene9er@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:c8303b5a-34a1-49ce-896d-2f0184d07eff@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...

Er, what exactly is this 46 volts supposed to be doing? I doubt there is
anything like 46 volts anywhere near the keyboard.

Please try again.

Gareth.

Yes... I checked it again. it's a common to all keys. No... there's
little chance of electric shock, as there is a lot of plastic between
the user and the switches.

Sorry for jumping to conclusions. It's what I do, sometimes.
And... as you will know, aluminum electrolytics are prone to going dry
given a few decades (or less) !

Your measurement is incorrect. No way is there 46 volts around the
keyboard. Possibly 4.6 volts, a slight but possibly acceptable drop from
the 5 volt supply.


You are still wanting to find the answer in dry aluminium electrolytics or
something else. Stop trying to make the symptoms fit your conjoured up
answer. This is not the best way to fault find. You need to establish some
facts. So far you have virtually none at all. Go get some and stop
guessing. Really.


Gareth.

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Archon" <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:08Ewk.666205$3p2.202061@fe10.news.easynews.com...

Gareth Magennis wrote:
"Josh9.0" <squalene9er@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:b5bb74fd-fccb-4579-a414-fa7ac9e673cd@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
No I haven't!
Thanks for the tip, and thanks for the quick reply!
I'll go and try it now.
It has a bunch of different voltages out, and they're labelled on the
PCB!
I guess I should look for ripple on what should be DC, right??
Then trace it back to the offending cap(s).
Then go buy some new ones of those only.

BTW: It has a main voltage going to all the keys of 46V which measures
43V.



You seem to be jumping to lots of conclusions for no apparent reason.
This is not going to help you.


What's with this "offending caps" businsess? You seem to have decided
there is a cap problem and replacing them will be the solution.
Stop guessing, it will get you nowhere.

You need to investigate and gather information. You start with the power
supplies, If they are OK then you look elsewhere.



Gareth.




Thats because searching for any electronics problem on google comes up
with "check all the electrolytics", ESR is the new religion. I get so many
people bringing stuff to me saying, hey its probably a cap, you got an ESR
meter?, can't be more than 10 bucks to fix. Yeah right. A little bit of
knowledge can be dangerous. Good luck to the OP, with a scope should be an
easy fix.

ESR is not a religion, it's a fact of life which, if you are a professional
repair technician as your post suggests you might be, you must very well
know ...

Although of course not all, many faults these days are indeed due to
electrolytic caps with a poor ESR. They are the single component which I,
and everybody else I know in the business, change more of per week, than any
other.

That said, in this OP's case, the problem could easily be a leaky diode in
the PSU, or something which may be a deal more difficult to pin down, such
as a bad inter-board ground. The age of it would suggest a cap might be a
firm first favourite though.

Arfa

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Josh9.0" <squalene9er@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:79d90c8c-939d-46aa-bc3e-352583845566@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

You need to establish some
facts. So far you have virtually none at all. Go get some and stop
guessing.

OK, How do I do that?
Thanks.

Well, for a start, do as was suggested - and which you seemed to
understand - and check each of the rails for ripple with your 'scope ...

Arfa

 

[DaveM]

"Josh9.0" <squalene9er@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:79d90c8c-939d-46aa-bc3e-352583845566@i76g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...

You need to establish some
facts. So far you have virtually none at all. Go get some and stop
guessing.

OK, How do I do that?
Thanks.

Make voltage measurements with your DMM. DC voltages first, then check for
ripple on those DC voltage points. If, as you indicated, the voltage points are
labeled, then start there... measure each voltage at its label.
Check ripple by using the AC voltage function of your DMM. Beware that some
DMMs are confused by a DC voltage, especially on the lowest voltage ranges. If
so, temporarily connect a 1 uF capacitor (having a voltage rating above the
voltages present in the organ) in series with one of the DMM leads to isolate
the DC from the DMM. The DMM should now give you a reasonably correct AC
voltage reading. The ripple voltage on a clean DC power supply point should be
less than 0.100 VAC (ideally, less than 0.010 VAC). If one of the power supply
points has much higher ripple voltage, then you can start looking at capacitor
failure.
Another cause of high ripple is rectifier failure, so you can't immediately
blame the filter capacitors for high ripple. A bad regulator can cause high
ripple, but you'll likely see a very wrong DC voltage as well.

If all are reasonably correct (+/- 5% unless you have more specific
documentation), then you have to look elsewhere.

If all the power supply voltages seem to be OK, the next most likely cause of
loud hum is the loss of a ground (shield) connection on an interconnecting wire.
This will require that you visually inspect each wire connection where it goes
off a board. If you find a broken wire, fix it and recheck to see if the hum is
gone.

Those suggestions should keep you busy for a bit. When you have found something
that seems out of reason and don't understand or know what to do next, then come
back with your questions. I'm sure we can get your organ back in service.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer it gets to the end, the faster
it goes.

 

[DaveM]

"bg" <bg@nospam.com> wrote in message news:g9uso7$2jt$1@news.xmission.com...

EricM wrote in message ...
Does anyone happen to have a data sheet or know the pinout of a UTC
HA-100 input transformer? It has 11 pins; 1 through 10 and a
ground. The particular unit I have was removed from something prior
to my owning it and has pins 8 & 9 shorted, 10 and ground shorted, and
3 & 4 shorted. No wire fragments or anything to go by. Wanting to
use is as an input transformer in a solid state NE5534 opamp circuit -
maybe barking up the wrong tree? Need something to take a line level
signal and match to the input of the 5534. Others have suggested
using an older transformer like this one for improved sound quality
but might not be right for the application. Could tell if I just had
info on the pinout. Anyone have access to this information? Thanks!

I think this transformer was used for 600/250 ohm input to the grid of a
tube amp. It probably isn't going to be a good fit for a 5534.
Primary 1 -
pin 6 = hot side
pin 2 = ct
pin 4 = low side
Primary 2 -
pin 3 = hot side
pin 5 = ct
pin 1 = low side
Secondary 1 -
pin 7 = hot
pin 9 = low
Secondary 2 -
pin 8 = hot
pin 10 = low

bg is correct in that this transformer is a low impedance microphone-to-grid
matching unit. Its turns ratio is about 1:10, meaning that if your primary line
level voltage is 1VAC, then the transformer's secondary level is going to be
around 10VAC (assuming the impedances allow it). I don't think that's what
you're after.

Of course, you could always send the secondary into a resistive voltage divider
to get the level back down so the NE5534 input isn't overdriven. Better still,
connect the transformer in reverse; using the secondary as the input and the
primary as the output. That would reverse the turns ratio to 10:1, so the
output level would be 1/10 the input level. If you need to maintain the
frequency response characteristics of the transformer, then you need to
experiment with source and load impedances that the transformer sees.

A better choice would be a 1:1 ratio transformer; something like a 600:600 ohm
matching transformer.
--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer it gets to the end, the faster
it goes.

 

[Soundhaspriority]

"Eeyore" <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:48C37B48.397EF24F@hotmail.com...

I'm repairing a Midas Venice mixing console. Try and avoid doing so.
It's a nightmare

Despite the agent's tech insisting that the 'solo' switches are 'self
cleaning', no amount of exercising them will prevent 2 of them behaving
intermittently.

They are pcb vertical mount types, i.e. the control surface is a series
of large flat double sided boards. From appearance I guessed the
switches to be ALPS but the German parts list gives the following
reference as best as I can decode it.

SCHALTER-TAST 4XUM 1 switch 4pdt

It's a latching type btw.

Any help sourcing same would be appreciated. I only need 2 but knowing
this beast one or two more might pack up !

Thanks, Graham

I have a bunch of finds, none of which may be relevant, but I pass them on

to you. The most interesting is
http://www.henri-electronic.de/start.php?P_989.php, which depicts a
bat-handle Schalter 4XUM.

Have a look at the below link. From what I gather, the actual brand is
"Schalter", which is owned by Assmann. "Tast" is German for "test", which I
suppose is actually a colloquial expression of a function, I don't know
what.

Page down. Besides the DIP switches, there is a type called a "taster."
http://www.bimel.com.tr/urun/pdf/assmann/elkcomp/08-assmann-wsw-ec-switches.pdf

Also, google for "SCHALTER 4XUM"

Bob Morein
(310) 237-6511