Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Charlie]

The pity is that the news group is not moderated and so there is no
enforcement.
Unless the NG is moderated there will always be those who have never read
the charter or are even aware of it or simply choose to ignore it.

Can you say paper tiger?

Charlie


"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:db519196-56e0-48ff-ae5f-9669bf75bd35@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com...

bstngu @gmail.com wrote:
Anyone selling[off-topic]

http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics/msg/13651a897337a7a9?q=Charters+misc.industry.electronics.marketplace+Discussions+Advertisement-*-*+only.advertise+Techniques-for-*-*-*+sci.electronics.repair-Fixing-*-*+Annecdotes-*-*+*.rec.hierarchy+*.*.not.a.forsale.group+zz-zz+Discussion

 

[HEMI-Powered]

David Watts added these comments in the current discussion du
jour ...

AND HE WAS LISTENING TO 70'S ON 7 ON XM AND THEY PLAYED
BASKETBALL JONES AND WHEN HE GOT HOME SCOTT CALLED CURTIS
BROWN ON THE FONE AND SANG BASKETBALL JONES AND CURTIS BROWN
CALLED SCOTT FREEMAN A NIGGER FUCKING FREAK.

This is a really profound racist remark posted by someone with a
broken shift-lock key.

--
HP, aka Jerry

Don't be a fop or a blooter, make only pithy comments on Usenet

 

[Arfa Daily]

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrngbnlg9.pir.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...

Mike S. wrote:
I think the displays on at least five phones are damaged.

Just out of curiosity, could it be something on the phone line that's
damaged which is causing the garbled displays? Or is it actually the
phones which are damaged?

The answer is yes and yes. All of the phones could have been damaged in
a lightening strike, even if the lightening did not strike anything in
the house, or that enters it e.g. power, telephone, cable tv wiring.

Or they could just be getting garbled information.

The first thing to do is to bring a phone you know works and try it.

If it fails, unplug all the other phones, surge supressors, etc from
the phone lines and see if it works.

If it still does not work, and you live in the U.S., find your demarc
(demarcation) jack. This is were the phone line enters your house and
officially the phone network ends and your private wiring begins.

Unplug the house wiring from it and plug in your known working phone.
If it still fails, call the telephone company.

I have no idea if demarc jacks are used anywhere else. Here they are not.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM

Could be just that the micros in the phones have got screwed up. I would try
a complete reset on all of the phones, and then 're-mating' the cordless
extensions with the base. Seems odd that it should have knocked out all of
the phones, and all in the same way. Also agreed with what Geoff said. Try a
known good phone on the line.

Arfa

 

[Geoffrey S. Mendelson]

Mike S. wrote:

I think the displays on at least five phones are damaged.

Just out of curiosity, could it be something on the phone line that's
damaged which is causing the garbled displays? Or is it actually the
phones which are damaged?

The answer is yes and yes. All of the phones could have been damaged in
a lightening strike, even if the lightening did not strike anything in
the house, or that enters it e.g. power, telephone, cable tv wiring.

Or they could just be getting garbled information.

The first thing to do is to bring a phone you know works and try it.

If it fails, unplug all the other phones, surge supressors, etc from
the phone lines and see if it works.

If it still does not work, and you live in the U.S., find your demarc
(demarcation) jack. This is were the phone line enters your house and
officially the phone network ends and your private wiring begins.

Unplug the house wiring from it and plug in your known working phone.
If it still fails, call the telephone company.

I have no idea if demarc jacks are used anywhere else. Here they are not.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson, Jerusalem, Israel gsm@mendelson.com N3OWJ/4X1GM

 

[George Jetson]

"Curtis Brown" <pryce@stripperweb.com> wrote in message
news:g9h9g7$hpf$1@aioe.org...

BECAUSE I LIKE MONEY, BITCH.
I see schools aren't back in everywhere yet.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Douglas Fifield" <douglas.fifield@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:j5klb4peho23opme2ibgik6o0h0e5g9e9d@4ax.com...

My 3801 stopped sending sound to the surround sound system when
playing DVD's. It seems to perform just fine playing VCR's or off the
tuner.

I have checked the DVD-in cables (S-Video and Coax) and all
connections appear solid at both ends.

Another recent change that may, or may not be related is that the
illuminated display blanks out after a few seconds. Does not attect
playback in VCR or Tuner mode, but started happening about the time
the DVD sound began getting flakey.

Anybody have any ideas on what might be going on and whether it is a
repairable situation?

Thanks in advance.

Douglas

Try re-initializing the microprocessor according to your owner's manual.
Probably not much else you can do yourself.

Mark Z.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <d02qb4pl56tv6s9dh6fmm97f5karrmf3me@4ax.com>,
<letterman@invalid.com> wrote:

To use the least amount of power
and eliminate having to replace bulbs, I want a LED indicator. I was
looking on the Radio Shack website and this looks like what I want.
http://tinyurl.com/5al49d

My question is this:
I know a LED requires a resistor. It says this is rated at 12V, but
then it says it contains a LED (does not mention a resistor). I was
hoping for a complete unit with the resistor built in, but it appears
they do not sell them. I can add a resistor, but what size (ohms) do
I need?

I'm pretty sure the one shown does indeed contain a resistor suitable for
working from 12 volts. There'd be no point in mentioning 12 volts
otherwise - since LEDs aren't voltage driven like ordinary bulbs. In other
words you can use any LED with near any DC voltage by using the correct
resistor to set the current flowing through it.

To answer your question about choosing the correct resistor, you really
need to know the parameters of the particular LED as they are not all the
same. These are normally given in the data for the device.
This site calculates the value for it after you enter those parameters.
http://led.linear1.org/1led.wiz
So saying for most non critical applications and most common indicator
LEDs 1000 ohms (1k) will do well enough for a 12 volt car supply.

I'd be inclined to get a flashing one for your purpose. The flashing
electronics are built in to the LED which can be connected to 12 volts
directly.

--
*Why do they put Braille on the drive-through bank machines?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

This LED assembly is explicitly spec'd at 12V, so I don't see why it
wouldn't work. Of course, a lead-acid battery can hit 13.2 volts, but that
shouldn't be a problem.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <bd2dnQWTK87ZvSDVnZ2dnUVZ_q7inZ2d@comcast.com>,
William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

This LED assembly is explicitly spec'd at 12V, so I don't see why it
wouldn't work. Of course, a lead-acid battery can hit 13.2 volts, but
that shouldn't be a problem.

On charge the voltage can be even higher. About 14.4v or so - depending on
the type of charging system. But if a LED indicator lamp is said to be 12
volts they almost certainly anticipate car type use.

--
*Honk if you love peace and quiet.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a diode
in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the inanition
switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the ignition, and still
have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

--
*Why is the man who invests all your money called a broker?

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert...

By a most amazing coincidence, I was perusing an electronics catalog last
night, looking for items I could add to an order to two switches, when I
found the Sonalert page. When these were introduced around 45 years ago,
they cost from $5 to $9. Today they start at around $50. That's insane.

The lights-on alarm makes a lot more sense.

http://www.carparts.com/LIGHTS-ON-ALARM/GP_2001371_N_111+10718+600021987_10618.car

 

[DaveM]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
newssmdna_lzOWfQCDVnZ2dnUVZ_jWdnZ2d@comcast.com...

I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert...

By a most amazing coincidence, I was perusing an electronics catalog last
night, looking for items I could add to an order to two switches, when I
found the Sonalert page. When these were introduced around 45 years ago,
they cost from $5 to $9. Today they start at around $50. That's insane.

The lights-on alarm makes a lot more sense.

http://www.carparts.com/LIGHTS-ON-ALARM/GP_2001371_N_111+10718+600021987_10618.car

Hmmm.... Almost all of the Sonalerts at Mouser are $10 US or less; in fact,
most are under $5 US... http://tinyurl.com/6abr8x

You have to provide your own circuitry to make it sound when the ignition is on
but the engine not running, but it's not $50 worth.

--
Dave M
MasonDG44 at comcast dot net (Just substitute the appropriate characters in the
address)

Life is like a roll of toilet paper; the closer it gets to the end, the faster
it goes.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <-cydnU4XL8meDyDVnZ2dnUVZ_uudnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a
diode in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the
inanition switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the
ignition, and still have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

Yes. did you? The solution I posted is used in cars for the same
reason.

The OP obviously has little technical knowledge and you've said to connect
it between the headlamp circuit and ignition switch.

It is connected between to points that are at +12 VDC when the
engine is running, and the lights are on.

I know how a lights on alarm works.

if you shut off the engine,
the sounder goes off. they are used in cars, because you can miss a
small indicator when you are in a hurry, or have sunlight shining on
it.

A warning light for lights on wouldn't seem a good idea, would it?

I built my first one over 30 years ago, and built several for
family & friends, until they were available over the counter. It draws
zero power when not giving an alarm, and less current than a bright LED.

Do whatever you want. At this point in my life, I'm not going to
argue.

But you could try reading the question...

--
*Experience is something you don't get until just after you need it *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <qjgvk.18935$bx1.9593@bignews1.bellsouth.net>,
jakdedert <jakdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <-tednUhLfcF_-CDVnZ2dnUVZ_gCdnZ2d@earthlink.com>,
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert, or generic Piezo sounder with a
diode in series. Connect it between he headlight circuit, and the
inanition switch so that it makes noise when you shut off the
ignition, and still have the light on.

Have you actually read the question?

I'm with Michael. Audible alert would seem to make more sense, either
alone or in conjunction with visible indication. Tractors get used in
full sunlight, where an LED would have to be pretty bright to attract
attention.

He may have missed that it was an ignition on/engine off situation--as
opposed to a *lights* on/ignition off issue--but the principle is the
same.

Principles are fine to those with a decent technical knowledge. But I
don't think the OP has. So concise instructions are needed in that sort of
case.

--
*I want it all and I want it delivered

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[William Sommerwerck]

"DaveM" <masondg4499@comcast99.net> wrote in message
news:reCdnY9O_9a8fCDVnZ2dnUVZ_s_inZ2d@comcast.com...

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
newssmdna_lzOWfQCDVnZ2dnUVZ_jWdnZ2d@comcast.com...

I would use a 12 VDC Sonalert...

By a most amazing coincidence, I was perusing an electronics catalog last
night, looking for items I could add to an order to two switches, when I
found the Sonalert page. When these were introduced around 45 years ago,
they cost from $5 to $9. Today they start at around $50. That's insane.
The lights-on alarm makes a lot more sense.

http://www.carparts.com/LIGHTS-ON-ALARM/GP_2001371_N_111+10718+600021987_10618.car

Hmmm.... Almost all of the Sonalerts at Mouser are $10 US or less;
in fact, most are under $5 US... http://tinyurl.com/6abr8x

We're both right. The Sonalerts at Mouser are all board-mount. But the
original panel-mount types are still made, and they are very expensive.

 

[N Cook]

Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9B0E7B4976332jyanikkuanet@64.209.0.85...

"AshTray700" <ashtray700@aol.com> wrote in
news:3b995d7b6b6c2b8149050d958bb6e91a@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipm
ent.com:

I have a huge CRT that i need to stabalize so it can be removed and
trashed, ive left them in the garrage under vacuum and had one implode
into 1000's of glass shards, is there a way to vent air in without
breaking it all to pecies?

--
Message posted using
http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/group/sci.electronics.repai
r/ More information at
http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/faq.html



drive a small screwdriver blade into the hole in the end of the CRT
socket.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Same advice but I first make a hole in the removed outer casing and pass a
small diameter steel punch , through it, and onto the that spot, a pip on
the end of the neck of the CRT. The covering just in case what should be
just a snmall hole should become a big hole - I've never experienced it but
is a possibility.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[N Cook]

and place the screen surface down on cardboard , not concrete, before
knocking the hole in

 

[Jim Yanik]

"AshTray700" <ashtray700@aol.com> wrote in
news:3b995d7b6b6c2b8149050d958bb6e91a@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipm
ent.com:

I have a huge CRT that i need to stabalize so it can be removed and
trashed, ive left them in the garrage under vacuum and had one implode
into 1000's of glass shards, is there a way to vent air in without
breaking it all to pecies?

--
Message posted using
http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/group/sci.electronics.repai
r/ More information at
http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/faq.html

drive a small screwdriver blade into the hole in the end of the CRT socket.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <in7tb4pl4hplqcsf24u7ig97aoviqi3rbg@4ax.com>,
greenpjs <greenpjs@neo.rr.com> wrote:

You have the perfect solution for the WRONG problem. The OP is
concerned about leaving the ignition switch on after the tractor runs
out of gas or stalls. He never mentioned headlights at all.

Indeed.

--
*All men are idiots, and I married their King.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[John Ferrier]

"Baron" <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:g9mm85$h89$1@registered.motzarella.org...

AshTray700 wrote:

I have a huge CRT that i need to stabalize so it can be removed and
trashed, ive left them in the garrage under vacuum and had one implode
into 1000's of glass shards, is there a way to vent air in without
breaking it all to pecies?

--
Message posted using

http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/
More information at
http://www.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com/faq.html

Do wear eye protection before doing this !

Just run a triangular file across the neck near the base connector and
tap with the file, using it like a hammer. The glass will crack and
air will leak into the tube.

This is the standard method of cracking and removing the old gun
assembly prior to replacing the electron gun and restoring the vacumn.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

Tape a Crow Scarer tightly to the tube neck light and retire.

It works for me!