Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

On Sun, 4 Feb 2007 07:45:45 +1300 "Frank" <erty@home.com> wrote in Message
id: <45c4d847@clear.net.nz>:

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have to ask you "were have you started to read this message"
AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE wanker

So why the fuck do bottom posting wankers want you to spend time =
scrolling
down a page of crap looking for were the new message starts ? because =
they
are thick, OK you might ask, why not remove the old message so the new
message appears at the top of the page, well that is one option, I only
include it so anyone who comes in half way down the thread can work out =
what
is go on, how often does that happen, Not very often,

Get a life, stop wanking, stop bottom posting. Top posting saves time, =
as
more intelligent people seem to understand.
------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"
HTML><HEAD
META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1"
META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR
STYLE></STYLE
/HEAD
BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff
DIV><FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
DIV>I have to ask you "were have you started to read this =
message"<BR>&lt;FONT=20
color=3D#ff0000&gt;AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE wanker&lt;/FONT&gt;<BR><BR>So why the =
fuck do=20
bottom posting wankers want you to spend time scrolling<BR>down a page =
of crap=20
looking for were the new message starts ? because they<BR>are thick, OK =
you=20
might ask, why not remove the old message so the new<BR>message appears =
at the=20
top of the page, well that is one option, I only<BR>include it so anyone =
who=20
comes in half way down the thread can work out what<BR>is go on, how =
often does=20
that happen, Not very often,<BR><BR>Get a life, stop wanking, stop =
bottom=20
posting. Top posting saves time, as<BR>more intelligent people seem to=20
understand.</DIV>&lt;/FONT&gt;</DIV>&lt;/BODY&gt;&lt;/HTML

------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920--
I have to say that the irony of this is quite amusing. You might try
turning off HTML before making a fool of yourself again.
 
But doesn't YOUR posting prove his point? Look how much effort it
is to read your bottom-posted addition to all this unnecessary
repeated "context".

JW wrote:
On Sun, 4 Feb 2007 07:45:45 +1300 "Frank" &lt;erty@home.com&gt; wrote in Message
id: &lt;45c4d847@clear.net.nz&gt;:

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have to ask you "were have you started to read this message"
AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE wanker

So why the fuck do bottom posting wankers want you to spend time =
scrolling
down a page of crap looking for were the new message starts ? because =
they
are thick, OK you might ask, why not remove the old message so the new
message appears at the top of the page, well that is one option, I only
include it so anyone who comes in half way down the thread can work out =
what
is go on, how often does that happen, Not very often,

Get a life, stop wanking, stop bottom posting. Top posting saves time, =
as
more intelligent people seem to understand.
------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"
HTML&gt;&lt;HEAD
META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1"
META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR
STYLE&gt;&lt;/STYLE
/HEAD
BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff
DIV&gt;&lt;FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
DIV&gt;I have to ask you "were have you started to read this =
message"<BR>&lt;FONT=20
color=3D#ff0000&gt;AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE wanker&lt;/FONT&gt;<BR><BR>So why the =
fuck do=20
bottom posting wankers want you to spend time scrolling<BR>down a page =
of crap=20
looking for were the new message starts ? because they<BR>are thick, OK =
you=20
might ask, why not remove the old message so the new<BR>message appears =
at the=20
top of the page, well that is one option, I only<BR>include it so anyone =
who=20
comes in half way down the thread can work out what<BR>is go on, how =
often does=20
that happen, Not very often,<BR><BR>Get a life, stop wanking, stop =
bottom=20
posting. Top posting saves time, as<BR>more intelligent people seem to=20
understand.</DIV>&lt;/FONT&gt;</DIV>&lt;/BODY&gt;&lt;/HTML

------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920--

I have to say that the irony of this is quite amusing. You might try
turning off HTML before making a fool of yourself again.
 
Mike Berger wrote:

But doesn't YOUR posting prove his point? Look how much effort it
is to read your bottom-posted addition to all this unnecessary
repeated "context".
*His* posting makes NO sense unless one FIRST tries to read all of
the HTML garbage that he quoted. The quoting was FAR from "unnecessary."
 
....and we are not buy device...

Please don't spam the group, thank you.
 
"lee jae kyung" &lt;leelk3@kornet.net&gt; wrote in message
news:eq900c$6ij$1@news2.kornet.net...

We are sell of device for cellular phone :
All your device are belong to us.
 
On Tue, 06 Feb 2007 09:57:11 -0600 Mike Berger &lt;berger@shout.net&gt; wrote in
Message id: &lt;eqa8gn$ou0$1@roundup.shout.net&gt;:

But doesn't YOUR posting prove his point? Look how much effort it
is to read your bottom-posted addition to all this unnecessary
repeated "context".
Actually, I was making a point that had nothing to do with his incoherent
HTML babblings. Bottom posting combined with selective editing and in-line
quoting is the proper way to respond to a (normal) post, and always had
been until Microsoft's Outhouse Express came along. And with it, all the
clueless morons who had been kept away until that point. People read from
top to bottom, not bottom to top.

JW wrote:
On Sun, 4 Feb 2007 07:45:45 +1300 "Frank" &lt;erty@home.com&gt; wrote in Message
id: &lt;45c4d847@clear.net.nz&gt;:

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have to ask you "were have you started to read this message"
AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE wanker

So why the fuck do bottom posting wankers want you to spend time =
scrolling
down a page of crap looking for were the new message starts ? because =
they
are thick, OK you might ask, why not remove the old message so the new
message appears at the top of the page, well that is one option, I only
include it so anyone who comes in half way down the thread can work out =
what
is go on, how often does that happen, Not very often,

Get a life, stop wanking, stop bottom posting. Top posting saves time, =
as
more intelligent people seem to understand.
------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN"
HTML&gt;&lt;HEAD
META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1"
META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1106" name=3DGENERATOR
STYLE&gt;&lt;/STYLE
/HEAD
BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff
DIV&gt;&lt;FONT face=3D"Comic Sans MS"
DIV&gt;I have to ask you "were have you started to read this =
message"<BR>&lt;FONT=20
color=3D#ff0000&gt;AT THE TOP OF THE PAGE wanker&lt;/FONT&gt;<BR><BR>So why the =
fuck do=20
bottom posting wankers want you to spend time scrolling<BR>down a page =
of crap=20
looking for were the new message starts ? because they<BR>are thick, OK =
you=20
might ask, why not remove the old message so the new<BR>message appears =
at the=20
top of the page, well that is one option, I only<BR>include it so anyone =
who=20
comes in half way down the thread can work out what<BR>is go on, how =
often does=20
that happen, Not very often,<BR><BR>Get a life, stop wanking, stop =
bottom=20
posting. Top posting saves time, as<BR>more intelligent people seem to=20
understand.</DIV>&lt;/FONT&gt;</DIV>&lt;/BODY&gt;&lt;/HTML

------=_NextPart_000_0061_01C74830.7AA34920--

I have to say that the irony of this is quite amusing. You might try
turning off HTML before making a fool of yourself again.
 
Exactly. So you want to put the NEW material at the top.
You've already read everything else.

When you put a book down, and then pick it up again, do you
start at the very beginning of the book, or resume with the
material you haven't read yet?

JW wrote:
People read from
top to bottom, not bottom to top.
 
One other consideration. I used to do most of my newsgroup reading on
my PDA (Diamond Mako). Because of the limited amount of memory in the
PDA, the newsreader only downloaded about 30-40 lines of text per
posting. Normally not a problem, but when the replies included a lot
of text from previous posts, I was never able to read what the bottom-
posters added to the discussion. It became quite frustrating at
times.
 
Mike Berger wrote:
Exactly. So you want to put the NEW material at the top.
You've already read everything else.
Bullshit. If you really think that the quote is unnecessary, why do
you include it at the bottom? Why don't you remove it? I AGREE that
most quoted text is unnecessary, then it must be REMOVED, not included
in wrong place.

Do you know what is the purpose of quote?
It's that there is usually many many such questions/claims in the
thread, that could have similar answers/replies. Thus, the purpose of
quote is to POINT that which of the questions/claims is the reply
directed for.

If you read your own message (if you hadn't written it), you would
see, that it was IMPOSSIBLE to know that to which claim you are
refferring when you said "exactly". So that meant that triple
scrolling was necessary, for seeing it and then your reply.

Without seeing your quote, it can be considered that your reply
"exactly" referred to "Nice troll" in another message.

If quote was unnecessary, it wouldn't have invented, or at least not
be still in use.

--
Top-posting not supported.
 
"David Forsyth" &lt;Polaris30@epix.net&gt; wrote in
news:_15zh.2590$Oc.157540@news1.epix.net:

The
resistance strips inside the pots are removable, and consist of a
die-cut non-conductive substrate onto which a carbon resistance
compound was bound and on which the slide contact of the pot slides.
Each end of the strip has a metal connnector crimped to it to serve as
an end terminal for the pot.
I suspect our time is just as valuable as yours, so you can see this here
like the rest of us, if you're willing to look..

Anyway, what about a conductive polymer? If the removable strips are in
channels, or have enough width available, you could support a plastic
conductor. If it's flexible, you can anchor it with small clamps based on
the end connectors, or glue it in place. I doubt the value is very
critical, and could be adjusted for by changes in fixed resistors nearby
without compromising the design. They'd last longer than re-made carbon
strips, too. I don't know a source for such polymers, but I know they
exist, and someone here might know some standard part that is cheap enough
to justify cutting strips loose from.
 
On Fri, 09 Feb 2007 20:43:38 GMT, the renowned "David Forsyth"
&lt;Polaris30@epix.net&gt; wrote:

I have a need to rebuild some slide pots from 1970's musical equipment that
have worn-through resistance strips. The pots are long since unobtainable
(made by CTS), and I have yet to find any suitable replacements. The
resistance strips inside the pots are removable, and consist of a die-cut
non-conductive substrate onto which a carbon resistance compound was bound
and on which the slide contact of the pot slides. Each end of the strip has
a metal connnector crimped to it to serve as an end terminal for the pot.

I think if I knew what kind of binder and process is commonly used to adhere
the carbon to the substrate I could restore the resistance layer. It would
most likely have to be baked onto the strip, which is not a problem. For
the resistance material itself, I was thinking of using material from carbon
comp resistors (it would be trial and error to find the right value for this
application). So, I am trying to find information on how resistance
material is bound to a substrate for use in wiper/pot applications (it would
have to be fairly resistant to abrasion, solvents, etc.) Please email
foda01 at epix dot net with any helpful info.

thanks,

Dave
Can't you just adapt the element out of a more available slide pot?



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com
 
"Spehro Pefhany" &lt;speffSNIP@interlogDOTyou.knowwhat&gt; wrote in message
news:vdqps21ep5b2mmerlsls305td3knahs2fn@4ax.com...
On Fri, 09 Feb 2007 20:43:38 GMT, the renowned "David Forsyth"
Polaris30@epix.net&gt; wrote:

I have a need to rebuild some slide pots from 1970's musical equipment
that
have worn-through resistance strips. The pots are long since unobtainable
(made by CTS), and I have yet to find any suitable replacements. The
resistance strips inside the pots are removable, and consist of a die-cut
non-conductive substrate onto which a carbon resistance compound was bound
and on which the slide contact of the pot slides. Each end of the strip
has
a metal connnector crimped to it to serve as an end terminal for the pot.

I think if I knew what kind of binder and process is commonly used to
adhere
the carbon to the substrate I could restore the resistance layer. It
would
most likely have to be baked onto the strip, which is not a problem. For
the resistance material itself, I was thinking of using material from
carbon
comp resistors (it would be trial and error to find the right value for
this
application). So, I am trying to find information on how resistance
material is bound to a substrate for use in wiper/pot applications (it
would
have to be fairly resistant to abrasion, solvents, etc.) Please email
foda01 at epix dot net with any helpful info.

thanks,

Dave

Can't you just adapt the element out of a more available slide pot?



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
As if it's not going to be hard enough to make reliable, wear-resistant. and
above all *linear* tracks, how on earth are you proposing to handle log or
other tapers, which some are bound to have if this is audio equipment ? Is
there really no similar sized off the shelf pot range that you could adapt
the mounting brackets or PCB mountings of ? Even if they were a bit longer
or shorter than the originals, they could be made to work . With many many
years experience in the electronics repair and refurb business, I really
feel that you are setting yourself a next to impossible task here ...

Arfa
 
SNIP
Can't you just adapt the element out of a more available slide pot?



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany


As if it's not going to be hard enough to make reliable, wear-resistant.
and above all *linear* tracks, how on earth are you proposing to handle
log or other tapers, which some are bound to have if this is audio
equipment ? Is there really no similar sized off the shelf pot range that
you could adapt the mounting brackets or PCB mountings of ? Even if they
were a bit longer or shorter than the originals, they could be made to
work . With many many years experience in the electronics repair and
refurb business, I really feel that you are setting yourself a next to
impossible task here ...

Arfa

I agree....
 
"martin.shoebridge" &lt;ms@ntlsworld.com&gt; wrote in
news:V57zh.11842$wP3.10691@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net:

SNIP

Can't you just adapt the element out of a more available slide pot?



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany


As if it's not going to be hard enough to make reliable,
wear-resistant. and above all *linear* tracks, how on earth are you
proposing to handle log or other tapers, which some are bound to have
if this is audio equipment ? Is there really no similar sized off the
shelf pot range that you could adapt the mounting brackets or PCB
mountings of ? Even if they were a bit longer or shorter than the
originals, they could be made to work . With many many years
experience in the electronics repair and refurb business, I really
feel that you are setting yourself a next to impossible task here ...

Arfa

I agree....
So do I, but I suspect the guy wants to restore an old synthesizer or
something, as close as possible to original. I doubt the makers of those
would have ordered special pots made, they'd have made them in limited
runs, each instrument would have been expensive, but I doubt many pots
would have been needed, not enough to justify a custom run, so maybe they
are spares/surplus bought from another firm that did get specials, most
likely for mixers if log pots were used. (I bet they're all linear, just a
guess though).

If I were trying to restore an old synth or specialised audio item I'd
contact the museums that spring up to keep such things, and get to talk to
whoever does the restoration work.

To get a better idea, we'd probably need more info from the OP, but he
doesn't suggest he's coming back, he seems to expect us to take the time to
go to him...

Maybe someone will, if they think there's money in it. There might be, if
the item is so special that the OP is prepared to contemplate such extremes
to restore it accurately.
 
Hi everyone -

first off sorry for the confusion - I didnt mean to imply I wouldnt be
checking back into the newsgroup, I just never know when I can get online
and sometimes the older messages dont show up in my listings.

second - good idea about the conductive polymer - I hadnt thought along
those lines yet.

The travel on these pots is 2 inches and the closest thing I could find is
an alpha part but the construction is completely different internally and
they dont offer all of the various values I would need. I wonder if I could
have a lot of them custom made but I dont have megabucks to invest. These
are for synths and there is a demand since the NOS stock either dried up a
long time ago or the repair people who will even touch these things nowadays
are probably clinging tenaciously to the reserve stocks they do have (or
want an arm and a leg for them).

thanks again to everyone who replied

Dave


"Lostgallifreyan" &lt;no-one@nowhere.net&gt; wrote in message
news:Xns98D2F1DBC5BB1zoodlewurdle@140.99.99.130...
"martin.shoebridge" &lt;ms@ntlsworld.com&gt; wrote in
news:V57zh.11842$wP3.10691@newsfe7-gui.ntli.net:

SNIP

Can't you just adapt the element out of a more available slide pot?



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany


As if it's not going to be hard enough to make reliable,
wear-resistant. and above all *linear* tracks, how on earth are you
proposing to handle log or other tapers, which some are bound to have
if this is audio equipment ? Is there really no similar sized off the
shelf pot range that you could adapt the mounting brackets or PCB
mountings of ? Even if they were a bit longer or shorter than the
originals, they could be made to work . With many many years
experience in the electronics repair and refurb business, I really
feel that you are setting yourself a next to impossible task here ...

Arfa

I agree....




So do I, but I suspect the guy wants to restore an old synthesizer or
something, as close as possible to original. I doubt the makers of those
would have ordered special pots made, they'd have made them in limited
runs, each instrument would have been expensive, but I doubt many pots
would have been needed, not enough to justify a custom run, so maybe they
are spares/surplus bought from another firm that did get specials, most
likely for mixers if log pots were used. (I bet they're all linear, just a
guess though).

If I were trying to restore an old synth or specialised audio item I'd
contact the museums that spring up to keep such things, and get to talk to
whoever does the restoration work.

To get a better idea, we'd probably need more info from the OP, but he
doesn't suggest he's coming back, he seems to expect us to take the time
to
go to him...

Maybe someone will, if they think there's money in it. There might be, if
the item is so special that the OP is prepared to contemplate such
extremes
to restore it accurately.
 
"David Forsyth" &lt;Polaris30@epix.net&gt; wrote in message
news:_15zh.2590$Oc.157540@news1.epix.net...

I have a need to rebuild some slide pots from 1970's musical equipment
that have worn-through resistance strips. The pots are long since
unobtainable
Think reconstruction. Perhaps a chassis that fits over the existing controls
and lets you use available parts.
 
David Forsyth wrote:

Hi everyone -

first off sorry for the confusion - I didnt mean to imply I wouldnt be
checking back into the newsgroup, I just never know when I can get online
and sometimes the older messages dont show up in my listings.

second - good idea about the conductive polymer - I hadnt thought along
those lines yet.

The travel on these pots is 2 inches and the closest thing I could find is
an alpha part but the construction is completely different internally and
they dont offer all of the various values I would need. I wonder if I could
have a lot of them custom made but I dont have megabucks to invest. These
are for synths and there is a demand since the NOS stock either dried up a
long time ago or the repair people who will even touch these things nowadays
are probably clinging tenaciously to the reserve stocks they do have (or
want an arm and a leg for them).
Can you post a pic of one alongside a ruler in
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic ?

Graham
 
Paul wrote:
One other consideration. I used to do most of my newsgroup reading on
my PDA (Diamond Mako). Because of the limited amount of memory in the
PDA, the newsreader only downloaded about 30-40 lines of text per
posting. Normally not a problem, but when the replies included a lot
of text from previous posts, I was never able to read what the bottom-
posters added to the discussion. It became quite frustrating at
times.

So, you want everyone on Usenet to do things your way so you can use
a cheap piece of crap?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
David Forsyth &lt;Polaris30@epix.net&gt; wrote in message
news:_15zh.2590$Oc.157540@news1.epix.net...
I have a need to rebuild some slide pots from 1970's musical equipment
that
have worn-through resistance strips. The pots are long since unobtainable
(made by CTS), and I have yet to find any suitable replacements. The
resistance strips inside the pots are removable, and consist of a die-cut
non-conductive substrate onto which a carbon resistance compound was bound
and on which the slide contact of the pot slides. Each end of the strip
has
a metal connnector crimped to it to serve as an end terminal for the pot.

I think if I knew what kind of binder and process is commonly used to
adhere
the carbon to the substrate I could restore the resistance layer. It
would
most likely have to be baked onto the strip, which is not a problem. For
the resistance material itself, I was thinking of using material from
carbon
comp resistors (it would be trial and error to find the right value for
this
application). So, I am trying to find information on how resistance
material is bound to a substrate for use in wiper/pot applications (it
would
have to be fairly resistant to abrasion, solvents, etc.) Please email
foda01 at epix dot net with any helpful info.

thanks,

Dave
on one of my 2 tips files, URL below, is a formulation ofphotocopier toner
and graphite i have used in such circumstances. Otherwise if only thin
wipers , dismantle and move the wipers to fresh bits of track.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/
 

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