Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[MarkL]

Windows 98 doesn't necessarily support USB, You will need Windows 98 SE at
the least, then the next problem will be USB 1.0 Vs USB 2.0 compatibility
and correct drivers.


"Homer J Simpson" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:709th.177285$YV4.157894@edtnps89...

"JR North" <jasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:F46dnYpbTZdgcinYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@seanet.com...
I originally had USB 1.0 on my ME 'puter. MB ports. The Visioneer USB
scanner I bought later would not work on this machine, although other USB
items (IErinter)I was using at the time did. No error dialog, just no
comm. Drove me nuts. I got a USB 2.0 card, installed it, re-installed the
scanner, and the scanner worked perfectly with this setup. My .02

You can also try the compatibility wizard with WinXP.

 

[David Nebenzahl]

Noozer spake thus:

Since you brought up the subject of old vacuums, thought I should mention
mine: a Kenmore upright that I bought for $10 back in 1980, when it was
already, what? probably 30 years old. I just used it yesterday.

In the time I've had it, I've replaced the footswitch, repaired the plug
(the cord going into it got a bit frayed, so I epoxied it into the plug),
and that's it. Oh, and it has a resuable filter bag, so no filters to buy.

Hrm... a 50 year old vacuum bag probably doesn't filter dust out like the
disposable bags of today. Other than that I'd prefer a referbed old unit.

Well, I'd never claim that it filters to HEPA specs, but it does work
plenty well enough for my needs (and, I imagine, for most folks'). I
don't need a modren vacuum for which I have to buy disposable bags.


--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.

- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)

 

[SMS]

Vic Smith wrote:

The only effect these stories have had on me is to make me pull over
after *anybody* changes my oil and make sure nothing is screwed up.
Since I don't crawl under the car, even that won't help with a
hand-tightened plug, which is a time bomb.

I prefer to go to a competent mechanic who has the experience and
attitude to do things properly. This eliminates the need to check that
everything was done properly.

You can't see if everything was done properly with an oil change easily.
Did the mechanic leave the old oil filter gasket stuck onto the engine,
a fairly common occurrence? Did he replace the oil drain plug gasket?
Did he use the proper oil (something that even the dealer sometimes
doesn't do)? Was the filter tightened sufficiently, but not
over-tightened? Was the drain plug tightened sufficiently, but not
over-tightened.

My mechanic now even stocks factory oil filters for his regular
customers so you don't have to bring our own. He doesn't try to sell you
unneeded services such as the Bilstein Wallet Flush, etc. Oh, and he's
about $10 less for an oil change than Jiffy Lube. I'd go there even if
he wasn't my brother-in-law!

 

[Captain Midnight]

<doc@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:1169485056.968367.25310@38g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I especially like the "follow manufacturers instructions" part.
Just need to overcome my "reading inhibitions". ooo

FWIW, this happened because I was doing a fast charge.
I'm usually very careful to stop the process as soon as there
is any heat.

But this time I got called to dinner when I should have been
watching the stew. Actually more like pop-corn!

On a more serious note, I am reminded about how familiarity breeds
contempt and can often lead to compromising safety.

Anyway, cleaned up the mess. No real harm seems to have been
done except I prolly blew up about $60.00 worth of nicad cells.

I use a timer as a fail safe. Relatively cheap.

 

[Jim Land]

doc@sympatico.ca wrote in
news:1169485056.968367.25310@38g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

Thanks for the suggestions guys.

I especially like the "follow manufacturers instructions" part.
Just need to overcome my "reading inhibitions". ooo

FWIW, this happened because I was doing a fast charge.
I'm usually very careful to stop the process as soon as there
is any heat.

But this time I got called to dinner when I should have been
watching the stew. Actually more like pop-corn!

On a more serious note, I am reminded about how familiarity breeds
contempt and can often lead to compromising safety.

Anyway, cleaned up the mess. No real harm seems to have been
done except I prolly blew up about $60.00 worth of nicad cells.

We're all SO glad you don't work in a mutions factory...

 

[Captain Midnight]

I have a Compaq that came with Win95 that had USB support. OSR2 IIRC. It was
only available from OEM. Anyway the original version of Win 98 supported
USB.

"MarkL" <someone@pldi.com> wrote in message
news:12rceqte767e393@corp.supernews.com...

Windows 98 doesn't necessarily support USB, You will need Windows 98 SE at
the least, then the next problem will be USB 1.0 Vs USB 2.0 compatibility
and correct drivers.


"Homer J Simpson" <nobody@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:709th.177285$YV4.157894@edtnps89...

"JR North" <jasonrnorth@bigfoot.com> wrote in message
news:F46dnYpbTZdgcinYnZ2dnUVZ_tijnZ2d@seanet.com...
I originally had USB 1.0 on my ME 'puter. MB ports. The Visioneer USB
scanner I bought later would not work on this machine, although other
USB
items (IErinter)I was using at the time did. No error dialog, just no
comm. Drove me nuts. I got a USB 2.0 card, installed it, re-installed
the
scanner, and the scanner worked perfectly with this setup. My .02

You can also try the compatibility wizard with WinXP.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

And you are lucky if the 1000TW is more than about 15 watts per channel.
This model predates the FTC enforcements of the '70s.

People should stop selling amps based on power consumption rather than
output. Either it's ignorance or dishonesty. Take your pick.


Mark Z.

 

[Weatherlawyer]

Art top posted:

Maybe it would be a good idea to at least post the manufacturere and model
number of the applicable device. Generic questions seem to mandate generic
answers.
You want me to post all the serial numbers too?

For all the computer hardware that doesn't have any photographs of
people taking them apart?

Really?

Radio Shack items may need the service literature once marketed by Tandy
Corporation, the parent company of Radio Shack.
At least, when you post the make and model we would be a bit more informed
also.
Hang on. I'll just see if there are any on Google images that I can see

the specs to.

Just wait right there. I won't be long.

"Weatherlawyer" <Weatherlawyer@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1148983519.902314.13800@y43g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...

n cook wrote:

If it was tube/amp stuff with 400V on anodes you could understand being
very
cautious to the point of not even removing the covers , but pc ancilliary
kit out of bounds ?

So give me some links to these exploits. It has occured to me that in
this day and age the sons of destruction engineering aught to have
pictures of more than scanner anatomies online.

Or are the pip squeaks only capable of copying and pasting the
anatomies of tennis players?

 

[Meat Plow]

On Thu, 28 Sep 2006 10:11:06 -0700, RST Engineering (jw) Has Frothed:

I'm interested in this thread, having built a 1050 back in the late '50s.
It too has been part of the garage clutter for fifty years or so.

However, I am NOT willing to wade through two or three pages of quote,
quotequote, quotequotequote to get to one or two lines of answer.

PLEASE, PEOPLE, LEARN HOW TO SNIP.

Jim

Use a news reader that can mute quoted text.


--
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004

COOSN-266-06-25794

 

[Jeff Wisnia]

RST Engineering (jw) wrote:

I'm interested in this thread, having built a 1050 back in the late '50s.
It too has been part of the garage clutter for fifty years or so.

Would you be willing to give the ammeter on your 1050 a quick check
against something you trust, either another ammeter or maybe a low
ohmage power resistor and a voltmeter and see if your unit's ammeter
reads high like mine did?

However, I am NOT willing to wade through two or three pages of quote,
quotequote, quotequotequote to get to one or two lines of answer.

PLEASE, PEOPLE, LEARN HOW TO SNIP.

Jim

I keep hearing opposing points of view about that, same as I do with
cross posting vs. duplicated separate posts.

I can see some merit to both sides of those two debates.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."

 

[maria]

Hello there.

I have a problem with my SAMSUNG plasma PS42P3S (Type AX42P3) and I
desperately need a service manual (while watching TV the signal
disappears, it comes back and then after a while I normally get
"snows..".

Thanks in advance,

P.


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[Homer J Simpson]

"maria" <maria.2f651x@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:maria.2f651x@nospamplease.com...

I have a problem with my SAMSUNG plasma PS42P3S (Type AX42P3) and I
desperately need a service manual (while watching TV the signal
disappears, it comes back and then after a while I normally get
"snows..".

What if you are watching a DVD?

 

[maria]

I can play/watch at a dvd while I have this problem. That is the strange
think.
Most propably there is a problem either with the analoge module (tuner)
or the volt levesl that the analoge gets from the SNMP.

That is the reason I'm asking for a service manual with
troubleshooting.
Is there any combination of keys from the remote controler with which I
can induce a built-in diagnostic tool and see the results on the screen?


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[Homer J Simpson]

"maria" <maria.2f7rec@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:maria.2f7rec@nospamplease.com...

I can play/watch at a dvd while I have this problem. That is the strange
think.
Most propably there is a problem either with the analoge module (tuner)
or the volt levesl that the analoge gets from the SNMP.

That reduces the problem to the tuner / IF strip.

That is the reason I'm asking for a service manual with
troubleshooting.
Is there any combination of keys from the remote controler with which I
can induce a built-in diagnostic tool and see the results on the screen?

Not for that. You need a signal generator and/or scope with a demodulator
probe. Probably a bad solder joint.

 

[tech2353]

I also would like to find a copy of the instruction manual. I e-mailed
radio shack but unit was discontinued in 1971 and is no longer
available from them. so?


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[Mr. Radio]

"tech2353" <tech2353.2ffxua@nospamplease.com> wrote in message
news:tech2353.2ffxua@nospamplease.com...

I also would like to find a copy of the instruction manual. I e-mailed
radio shack but unit was discontinued in 1971 and is no longer
available from them. so?


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email:

info at clfurent dot com

they've got one.

 

[Jim Land]

depotcon@kos.net (Jason D.) wrote in news:4547c79f.27957507@news.kos.net:

Now stuck in manual mode.
Like I do with samsung as I do for service but no service manual for
this hitachi model.

Need this info on going through steps to do this to get
auto-convergence working once again.

www.manualsparadise.com and www.servicemanuals.net way they have the
service manual available for this model.

 

[JW]

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 16:51:04 -0500 "Harmonitron" <private@email.com> wrote
in Message id:
<6d54e1ac393649ef5f44a7b3c731ce3d@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com>:

Jay, my repair didn't last.

I pulled down the OVP pin (2) to ground while I powered up the screen,
held it for two seconds and let go. The backlight stayed on.

I added 1.5M in parallel with the 1M pull-down resistor on pin 2 and that
seemed to work.

Every time I get the whole thing screwed together it fails again. It seems
to be temperature dependent a bit though and will stay lit sometimes.

I presume the whole problem is due to changes in the tubes as they age.
The designer hasn't quite got this figured out properly.

Anyone know what the correct thing to do is with the OVP signal? Should I
use a capacitive divider since the lamp voltage is capacitively coupled?

See
http://www.fixitwiki.com/index.php?title=OZ960_LCD_backlight_inverter_control_problems
for a typical OZ960 schematic.

While I can't advise you how to fix your problem, I did finally manage to
get a datasheet for the device, and fix the problem. I could email it to
you if you give me your address, or post it to
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic if you have proper usenet access, as
you appear to be posting from a web based forum. The datasheet includes a
reference design.

For the problem we were having with the 455KHz signal knocking out the
inverters, I found that if we removed the capacitor connected to pin 18 of
the OZ960 chip (thereby isolating it) and connected pin 18 to the removed
cap and added a series ferrite bead (part # BLM21PG331SN1D from
http://search.murata.co.jp/Ceramy/image/img/PDF/ENG/L0110S0100BLM21P.pdf)from
the cap to pin 6 of the chip, it fixed the problem. We have been reworking
them for over a year now, and our customer is no longer having any
problems with their displays.

 

[Bill S.]

In article <Dartattack.2giiba@diybanter.com>,
Dartattack.2giiba@diybanter.com says...

Is that same 7.5K used in the Model CS4727? If so thanks.

Damfino, that model number doesn't come up in my model list.
They used that setup in a lot of models with varying resistor
values depending on how hard they wanted to whack the HOT base.