Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[default]

On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 21:39:05 GMT, James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com>
wrote:

In my experience, Maxtor drives are junk, all brands have had some duds,
but those have been the worst. You might have luck swapping the board
given this is likely an electrical failure.

My advice once you salvage the data would be to just go buy a new
Seagage, they have the longest warranty of any of them.

I've been tickled with Samsung drives. I was prejudiced against them
until I perused some of the posts on TIVO repair. They sang the
praises of Samsung, so when I needed new drives I bought 2 Hitachi
drives and a Samsung - one Hitachi failed in two weeks and was
replaced under warrantee, the Samsung and remaining Hitachi have been
going strong.

The Samsung is fast, very quiet (unlike the clanking of the Hitachi's
read/write arms) and probably runs 10 degrees cooler.

Samsung has a 5 year warrantee

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[Sam Goldwasser]

"ian field" <dai.ode@ntlworld.com> writes:

"Flyguy" <Flyguy@bluesky.net> wrote in message
news:XU86h.2749$bj1.1163@trndny05...
Homer J Simpson wrote:
mwpmorris@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162839588.995972.108850@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...


Could I have been exposed to anything when the glass shattered inside
the set or when I powered the thing on with the glass shattered?


No.

Do they still use mercury to flash the getter in the CRT gun assembly? I'd
be a little worried about that possbility.

Do you have any technical info sources that show mercury was ever used in
getters?

I doubt it. Mercury is not that reactive. He's probably just thinking
of the shiny getter coating and associating it with mercury.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

James Sweet <jamessweet@hotmail.com> writes:

Flyguy wrote:
Homer J Simpson wrote:

mwpmorris@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1162839588.995972.108850@h48g2000cwc.googlegroups.com...


Could I have been exposed to anything when the glass shattered inside
the set or when I powered the thing on with the glass shattered?



No.

Do they still use mercury to flash the getter in the CRT gun assembly?
I'd be a little worried about that possbility.

Mercury is not good for you, but contacting it once in your life won't
hurt anything. I wonder sometimes about those compact fluorescent lamps
that so often end up in the trash, every one of them contains mercury.

How many of us have played with liquid mercury as kids?

Please stand up (if you still can).

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[lj_robins]

lj_robins wrote:

Hi,

I have a Maytag Gemini stove model # MER6872BAW, about two weeks ago
everyone started noticing that nothing was getting fully cooked in the
upper oven. We use the upper oven a lot so I figured it was either the
sensor or the element.

I stuck a fireplace thermometer in the upper oven just to make sure
everyone wasn't going crazy, the temp on the oven's digital display said
400 degrees, the fireplace thermometer said 310. I stuck the thermometer
in the lower oven, the display and the thermometer both said 400 degrees.

Figuring that it was the sensor I replaced it, the upper oven still
acted the same. I was able to find a schematic for the oven on
Sears.com, the sensor goes straight back to a connector on the circuit
board inside the control panel.

The new and old sensors both read a little over 1000 ohms, the sensor
connectors for both lower and upper ovens are both reading 5.15 volts
DC. My only guess on this is that there is something wrong with the
circuit board. I looked it over all the parts look fine, no burnt
resistors, none of the capacitors are bulged at the top, no popped
transistors.

The oven did give me a code F9-3 while I was working on it which decodes
to: "Check for obstruction in door lock mechanism" (there is nothing in
the mechanism). Oddly enough six months after we had this stove it gave
that code with no warning at all, it gave another code too but I do not
remember that is was. A month later it did it again, then no problems
with it at all for three years until too weeks ago.

Anyone have any suggestions on what might be wrong?

Thank you for all the replies, it turned out to be a bad solder joint on
the controller board, oven works fine now.


-Landon

 

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

wrongaddress@att.net wrote:

quietguy wrote:
How many gangs on the tuning cap? Many of the 8 transistor radios had an
RF stage - if there are 3 gangs on the tuning cap that is a giveaway

David


It's just a little pocket size radio (5 X 3 X 1.5) with 2 sections for
the tuning cap.It has the usual four RF coils and input and output
audio transformers. But that only requires 6 transistors, and there are
8 used. I suppose I can trace out the connections to try and figure out
what the extra 2 transistors do.


Does your radio have a brand name and model number?

Yes, it's a "Keytone" or "Kaytone" deluxe model, 8 transistor, made in

Japan. Chrome faceplate, white plastic body, red plastic back. I
searched Google but didn't find much.

-Bill

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

James Sweet wrote:

meow2222@care2.com wrote:
wrongaddress@att.net wrote:


I have an old 8 gernamium transistor, protable AM radio that is noisy
on weak stations when cold. It works reasonably well when set it in the
sunshine and warms up. The problem seems to be the RF section since the
noise goes away when the volume is turned down. I'm suspecting the
germanium transistors may be the problem and wondering which one might
be replaced with a silicon variety to cure the temperature problems?

I'm not sure what all 8 transistors do. Two are in the output stage,
and another is used as a audio driver that drives the audio input
transformer.There are four RF coils, the usual oscillator (red) and
mixer (yellow) and white (1st IF) and (black (second IF). But that only
requires 6 transistors, and there are eight total. The detector is a
diode, so they didn't use a transistor for that. I haven't figured out
what the other 2 transistors do.

I'm thinking of replacing the oscillator transistor with a high gain
silicon variety to try and eliminate the temperature problems?

Any other ideas?

-Bill



Sounds like a perfect job for a can of freeze spray. Warm it up until
the problem goes away, then give suspect components a quick shot of cold.

Yes, good idea, but the can of freeze spray costs $10, and the radio
only cost two dollars. So I put the radio in the freezer for 30 minutes
and took it out and it didn't work at all. Then I applied a hot
sodering iron to the body of the oscillator transistor and it very
quickly started working again. Seems the oscillator doesn't run at low
temperature.

Would you guess the solution is a silicon transistor? or just adjust
the bias on the existing germanium transistor?

-Bill

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1163557240.068873.194480@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Yes, it's a "Keytone" or "Kaytone" deluxe model, 8 transistor, made in
Japan. Chrome faceplate, white plastic body, red plastic back. I
searched Google but didn't find much.

Might be a collectible. If so, don't screw with it. Sell it to a
fool^H^H^H^Hcollector and use the money to buy a good set.

 

Homer J Simpson wrote:

wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1163557240.068873.194480@b28g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Yes, it's a "Keytone" or "Kaytone" deluxe model, 8 transistor, made in
Japan. Chrome faceplate, white plastic body, red plastic back. I
searched Google but didn't find much.

Might be a collectible. If so, don't screw with it. Sell it to a
fool^H^H^H^Hcollector and use the money to buy a good set.

Yes, I'm thinking about selling it, but I want it to work well, as good
as new or better. The radio I'd really like to have is the CCRadio Plus
from ccrane company, for $134 at:

http://www.ccrane.com/radios/am-fm-radios/ccradio-plus/index.aspx

It's supposed to be optimized for 'talk radio' and voice frequencies,
but it's a little large to carry around. Runs on four 'D' cells for 250
hours and has a leather case and a bunch of options, solar charger,
Antenna amplifier, ect. It's supposed to be one of the best AM radios.
I see it on ebay all the time, so I might make a bid and get it for
$100 or less.

-Bill

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1163559828.809638.315730@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...

Yes, I'm thinking about selling it, but I want it to work well, as good
as new or better. The radio I'd really like to have is the CCRadio Plus
from ccrane company, for $134 at:

http://www.ccrane.com/radios/am-fm-radios/ccradio-plus/index.aspx

It's supposed to be optimized for 'talk radio' and voice frequencies,
but it's a little large to carry around. Runs on four 'D' cells for 250
hours and has a leather case and a bunch of options, solar charger,
Antenna amplifier, ect. It's supposed to be one of the best AM radios.
I see it on ebay all the time, so I might make a bid and get it for
$100 or less.

I somewhat covet a Grundig all wave hand cranked, but I expect it's made in
China too.

 

[Jim Land]

wrongaddress@att.net wrote in news:1163559828.809638.315730
@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com:

The radio I'd really like to have is the CCRadio Plus
from ccrane company, for $134 at:

http://www.ccrane.com/radios/am-fm-radios/ccradio-plus/index.aspx

It's supposed to be optimized for 'talk radio' and voice frequencies...

I wonder how that is different from "lacks good bass and treble"?

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Jim Land wrote:

wrongaddress@att.net wrote in news:1163559828.809638.315730
@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com:

The radio I'd really like to have is the CCRadio Plus
from ccrane company, for $134 at:

http://www.ccrane.com/radios/am-fm-radios/ccradio-plus/index.aspx

It's supposed to be optimized for 'talk radio' and voice frequencies...

I wonder how that is different from "lacks good bass and treble"?

Some of those CC Crane radios have a high failure rate on the LCD
displays. Ask about the model you are looking at on:
news:rec.radio.shortwave but be ready for the flaming idiots who like to
hijack almost every thread.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

wrongaddress@att.net wrote:

only cost two dollars. So I put the radio in the freezer for 30 minutes
and took it out and it didn't work at all. Then I applied a hot
sodering iron to the body of the oscillator transistor and it very
quickly started working again. Seems the oscillator doesn't run at low
temperature.

Would you guess the solution is a silicon transistor? or just adjust
the bias on the existing germanium transistor?

-Bill

neither, increase the stage gain. That probably means higher collector
R or similar. You may then need to adj the bias a little.

Or with an old radio like that it might just be biased way wrong, where
gain is down. Meter it and see where Vce sits when not oscillating.


NT

 

wrongaddress@att.net wrote:

only cost two dollars. So I put the radio in the freezer for 30 minutes
and took it out and it didn't work at all. Then I applied a hot
sodering iron to the body of the oscillator transistor and it very
quickly started working again. Seems the oscillator doesn't run at low
temperature.

Would you guess the solution is a silicon transistor? or just adjust
the bias on the existing germanium transistor?

-Bill

neither, increase the stage gain. That probably means higher collector
R or similar. You may then need to adj the bias a little.

Or with an old radio like that it might just be biased way wrong, where
gain is down. Meter it and see where Vce sits when not oscillating.


NT

PS keep slobbering irons off geraniums, they max out at 90C, and
slobber doesnt even melt till over 200. Just soldering Ge trs into pcbs
is prone to killing them, this is why they typically had long sleeved
leads.


NT

 

[Bill S.]

In article <jpgolf14.2h4qbo@diybanter.com>,
jpgolf14.2h4qbo@diybanter.com says...

Hi, I have an old 46" Magnavox TV model RH8520 AK08. The video just
stopped working the other day. Audio still works fine. It turns on
and off ok. Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this?
Maybe the light source?

These sets have CRT's. Most likely the high voltage has quit, and
there are numerous possible reasons. Bad flyback transformer,
focus bleeder breakdown, cracked solder joints, protection circuit
shutdown from over voltage, over current, loss of vertical scan...

You need a tech familiar with the set and armed with schematics.
Learning curve is very steep for anyone not familiar.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

meow2222@care2.com wrote:

wrongaddress@att.net wrote:

only cost two dollars. So I put the radio in the freezer for 30 minutes
and took it out and it didn't work at all. Then I applied a hot
sodering iron to the body of the oscillator transistor and it very
quickly started working again. Seems the oscillator doesn't run at low
temperature.

Would you guess the solution is a silicon transistor? or just adjust
the bias on the existing germanium transistor?

-Bill

neither, increase the stage gain. That probably means higher collector
R or similar. You may then need to adj the bias a little.

Or with an old radio like that it might just be biased way wrong, where
gain is down. Meter it and see where Vce sits when not oscillating.

NT

PS keep slobbering irons off geraniums, they max out at 90C, and
slobber doesnt even melt till over 200. Just soldering Ge trs into pcbs
is prone to killing them, this is why they typically had long sleeved
leads.

NT

Some of the early, cheap transistor radios used really poor quality
transistors. they had so much leakage that they were self biasing.
Even if you replace them with a good germanium transistor, they may need
the bias adjusted.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[kel-fbs]

gooliver wrote:

I've some problem with the VGA-cable for this monitor...
but for to remove the chassis of this monitor i've encountered
most difficulties... someone has service-manual with the specifications
on how to remove the plastic chassis?

thanx in advance!

If you look at the joint where the back and front of the monitor case
meet then you will see two very small regtangular holes on each side of
the monitor.
this is where the clips that hold the front and back of the case
together are located. You will need to find an object that can fit into
those holes to push the clips open. Put the monitor face down onto a
cusion or similar to avoid scratching the CRT then tilt the monitor to
one side by holding the back part of the case. Now when you press
something into the holes to push on the clips the weight of the CRT
will pull the front case away from the back case. Repeat this process
with the other side of the monitor.

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

ian field wrote:

How many people are "mad as a hatter" today?!

On, or off usenet?


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Homer J Simpson]

<wrongaddress@att.net> wrote in message
news:1163557997.576588.202720@e3g2000cwe.googlegroups.com...

Would you guess the solution is a silicon transistor? or just adjust
the bias on the existing germanium transistor?

I did have one set only (ever) that had weak transistors. It was a minimum
count model (5 or 6) and I replaced all of them to get it to work again.

 

[David Nebenzahl]

Michael A. Terrell spake thus:

Michael Black wrote:

Jim Land (RrrrFfffTttt@hotmail.com) writes:

wrongaddress@att.net wrote in news:1163387574.804150.266160
@h54g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

I have an old 8 gernamium transistor, protable AM radio that is noisy
on weak stations when cold....

Try over on alt.antiques.radio+phono... they'll enjoy hearing about your
germanium transistors.

I don't know. There has been debate in the past over there about what's
relevant to the newsgroup, and some have felt transistors aren't old
enough.

Some of them think that Atwater Kent radios are too new for that
group. Ignore them, there are a number of transistor radio collectors
in that group. I have most of the "Sams Transistor Radio Manuals" in my
collection: http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/HWSTm.html The Sams
index is available online.

Which implies that, at least sometime in the past, there were those who
repaired those radios. Did they? I remember when those things appeared
on the market, and I always thought of them as disposable items. Did
people actually take them in to be fixed?


--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.

- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)

 

[Michael Black]

David Nebenzahl (nobody@but.us.chickens) writes:

Michael A. Terrell spake thus:

Michael Black wrote:

Jim Land (RrrrFfffTttt@hotmail.com) writes:

wrongaddress@att.net wrote in news:1163387574.804150.266160
@h54g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

I have an old 8 gernamium transistor, protable AM radio that is noisy
on weak stations when cold....

Try over on alt.antiques.radio+phono... they'll enjoy hearing about your
germanium transistors.

I don't know. There has been debate in the past over there about what's
relevant to the newsgroup, and some have felt transistors aren't old
enough.

Some of them think that Atwater Kent radios are too new for that
group. Ignore them, there are a number of transistor radio collectors
in that group. I have most of the "Sams Transistor Radio Manuals" in my
collection: http://home.earthlink.net/~mike.terrell/HWSTm.html The Sams
index is available online.

Which implies that, at least sometime in the past, there were those who
repaired those radios. Did they? I remember when those things appeared
on the market, and I always thought of them as disposable items. Did
people actually take them in to be fixed?

Who knows. But early transistor radios, that would have used germanium

because there was no choice, were not cheap radios. They cost significant
amounts at the time. Even later, one could still get decent transistor
portables that would have cost a fair amount at the time. I once found
a Sony portable from the early sixties, and it has metal casing and is
quite heavy, complete with the large speaker. People would have been
having those repaired, there's no way they'd toss them if they stopped
working.

The cheap transistor portables came later. Likely they were less likely
to be repaired, but circuit wise they weren't that different from the
expensive portables.

Michael