Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Have you tried unplugging it for a few hours?

jordan23@totalise.co.uk wrote:
Hi group,

can anyone tell me how to reset the memory on the above television. The
one i have is power cycling when in wide screen mode. I can remedy this
situation if WS it is set on a channel you can switch from quickly on
power up but.. whilst investigating this I have manually selected wide
screen setting for the TV (do'h!)

Any suggestions of where to look for support might be appreciated

Thanks guys
 
Porky wrote:
Tom wrote:
You'll likely require a technician to sort
this one for you, unless it has a documented history/magic bullet for
this problem. Looks like a dandy little amp...

Under that husky exterior rides the flimsiest of circuit boards,
suspended on the plastic jacks and control pots, which barely survives
the bus trip home. Components are known to drop off like leaves from
the trees.

marsupialman.1xo...@news.homeimprovementbanter.com -

I bought a new Vintager GM110 via eBay about a year ago. When the amp
is switched on and my guitar plugged in, there is no output noise When I switch the >amp off, there is about
one second of amplified noise (such as a chosen guitar chord), then
silence.

Take it to an electronics training school, or find an old ham radio guy
with lots of patience and good eyesight. I once found a capacitor
rolling around loose under the chassis of a similar beast, that made
the repair job pretty easy. BTW, just plugging the guitar into the
return jack of the FX loop should have made a sound if the problem was
isolated in the preamp. Not likely.

John Kogel
 
On Sun, 30 Oct 2005, default wrote:

Ken Weitzel <kweitzel@shaw.ca> wrote:

I'd strongly urge you to check before you install anything other than
the original incandescents. I'm very sure that most places we can't
change them without "breaking the law"

And, what is the law?
Varies by state/province. Some jurisdictions explicitly require that
all motor vehicle lighting devices conform to US Federal Motor Vehicle
Safety Standard 108 (or, in Canada, Canada Motor Vehicle Safety
Standard 108 or 108.1). Other jurisdictions make vague references to
(usually outdated and/or inapplicable) SAE standards. Still other
jurisdictions contain subjective requirements, e.g. "Every vehicle
shall be equipped with two brake lights showing a red light to the rear
when the brakes are applied, which shall be clearly visible for a
distance of such-and-so many feet".

Seems to me I see a lot of trucks with new LED signal/stop lights, and I
can get close enough to see no SAE imprimatur on them.
Well, a few things here: First off, SAE is not a regulatory body.
Despite
commonly-used packaging language, there is no such thing as "SAE
approval".
(There's also no such thing as "DOT approval", but that's a different
topic
for a different day). FMVSS108 and CMVSS108 do not require any
particular
fiducial markings on vehicle rear lamps. Such markings are optional and
are
frequently applied by reputable manufacturers of HDV lighting
equipment, which implies you're not looking closely enough for the
markings and/or you don't know what you're looking for. There are a
great many different LED vehicle brake, marker, tail, parking,
reversing and directional indicator lamps on the
market. Of these, a large proportion are fully compliant with
applicable
regulations and therefore legal in all states and provinces for use in
their
intended applications. (The remainder are 3rd-world knockoff
crapola-this
has been a problem since long before LEDs, and it'll carry on being a
problem long after LEDs are obsolete).

LED exterior lights are appearing more slowly on passenger cars, simply
due
to economic factors. Development and tooling for a good, durable and
legally-compliant lighting device design is extremely expensive and
quite time consuming. HDVs overwhelmingly use lighting devices made to
a dozen or so industry-standard formats (4" round, 7" round, 3" x 5"
rectangular and 2" x 7" oblong brake/tail/turn lamps, for instance).
Passenger cars, on the other hand, overwhelmingly use model-specific
lamps.

I have an interest in reducing my motorcycle's current usage - and making
myself more visible. LEDs can do it, but I wonder about the legality
How come? What makes you think LEDs are illegal? What spoils the safety
compliance of a vehicle is (surprise!) lights that don't produce
intensity somewhere between the minimum and maximum prescribed values,
through at least the prescribed vertical and horizontal angles, with at
least the
prescribed minimum ratio between bright and dim intensity modes, with
at
least the prescribed minimum illuminated area and at least the
prescribed minimum resistance to the prescribed types of deterioration.
That's a long way of saying homemade brake/tail lights and "LED bulb"
retrofits generally don't work well enough to provide adequate safety
performance.

(since the DOT has taken 30+ years to accept that halogen lights are better
than "sealed beams"
It's really not that simple. Some of them are, some of them aren't.
Virtually every owner of a '93-'00 Chrysler product who pays any
attention at all to headlamp performance pines for the "performance" of
the $9 sealed beams on his '60s-'80s cars. And as a concept,
sealed-beam construction in standardized form factors makes a great
deal of sense for automotive headlamps. The _implementation_ we were
stuck with for so many years was poor, but there's nothing about
sealed-beam construction, per se, that locks one into poor headlamp
performance. There are plenty of bad replaceable-bulb lights, too.
There are even bad "Xenon" HID lights. Good lights are better than bad
lights; there's too much room in the US headlamp standard for various
kinds of bad lights.

I know LED's can make a big difference in visibility.
Good lights can make a big difference in visibility and conspicuity
compared
to bad lights. There are some very good LED lights...and a lot of bad
ones.
And there are some very good bulb-type lights.

is just a matter of waiting (should I live that long) untill the LED
lobbyists pay more than the incandescent lobbyists.
This doesn't make any sense. See above; more and more LED-based vehicle
lamps hit the road every day with full legal compliance.

And we, the people, might be able to choose.
You already can.

Sealed beams were a great improvement over polished silvered iron
reflectors
Er...there were no "iron" headlamp reflectors. Silvered brass,
generally. Sometimes silvered steel.

- in the 30's- - and so the law was passed - - Halogen lights came along in
the 60/70s and could project more usable light where it was needed and not
cause glare to oncomming headlights - so the Europeans had them and the US
had to wait until General Electric could develop halogen (sealed beam)
headlights (that threw more light up in the air than directly ahead).
This is all more or less correct, though GE was _last_ to market with
DOT-certified halogen sealed beams. Westinghouse, Philips and Sylvania
beat them to it by a fairly long margin. GE kept insisting and
insisting that halogen technology was "unnecessary" on automobiles, and
that its use would create more problems than it would solve. This was
probably due more to GE's having recently-at-the-time sunk a great deal
of money into retooling their tungsten sealed beam production
facilities. Ironically, GE was first to market with a halogen sealed
beam in North America. In the early 1970s, GE Canada produced a
"Quartzline" 5-3/4" halogen sealed beam high beam, called Q4001, and
marketed it in Canada. It complied with European photometric
requirements and therefore was legal in Canada, but was "too intense"
for the US' unrealistically low high beam intensity limits and so was
not sold in the US.

When GE got out of the market - auto lighting was more or less for safety.
GE is very much still in the market. And auto lighting has for a very
long time been as much about politics, economics and non-tariff trade
barriers as about safety.

So how bad can LED lights be?
Very bad. Just as bad as other kinds of bad lights, if they're not
designed and built properly.

DS
 
tempus fugit wrote:

Tried the turining around the plug trick, but it made no difference. I also
disconnected the phono plug that connects the tone arm to the amp unit,
which also made no difference.

Here is something curious though. I accidentally touched my scope while my
hand was on the record player chassis and got a fairly good shock. The scope
has a 3 prong AC plug (the record player doesn't). I should've measured the
voltage difference between the sope chassis and the record player chassis,
but I didn't think to. I'll have to do that. Perhaps he chassis is live. I
didn't think this would be the case though, since there is a cap with the
negative connected to the case, as well as a few other green wires.
That capacitor might be leaking or (worse) shorted. It can be a lethal
failure (I read just this week about a minister in Waco who was
electrocuted during a baptism when he grabbed a microphone that was
"hot."). Be careful.

Thanks


"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_43612958@fidonet.org...
"tempus fugit" bravely wrote to "All" (27 Oct 05 11:17:42)
--- on the heady topic of "unit hums loudly regardless of volume"

tf> From: "tempus fugit" <toccata@no.spam.ciaccess.com
tf> Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:346437

tf> Hey all;

tf> I'm trying to repair an old tube portable record player. When it is
tf> on, it hums really loud, regardless of the volume.

Have you tried turning the ac plug around?

Which way the plug is inserted matters with these. Let the record
player warm up, then insert the plug one way or the other, and then
paint a mark for which was the quietest way. One way: lots of hum, the
other: quiet hiss.

Those old tube units used to get B+ directly from the powerline (or
sometimes a voltage doubler) and used a large value resistor bypassed
by a 0.01uF to RF ground the tone arm shielding to neutral. The power
for the filaments often came from a secondary winding in the motor
coil. Don't use this type of record player near the bathtub. Lethal!

Another possibility is a broken wire at the cartridge.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... Just a little force field zap.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
In article <n3s9m117gfkanec9pikuri6hsn3v2ttodc@4ax.com>,
Tom MacIntyre <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote:
Looks like a dandy little amp...
That's what Behringer does. Make it look good...;-)

--
*Acupuncture is a jab well done.*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
 
"Jumpster Jiver" <me@no.spam.today> wrote in message news:r0r9f.5334$cg6.5187@trndny04...
Rick Yerger wrote:

Our old apartment complex has ungrounded outlets. All 3-prong
appliances are connected with 3-to-2 adapters. Will this affect our
ability to use a PC power supply with Active PFC?

Sorry if this is a dumb question!



Assuming you are in the USA - 120V

If the outlet box is made of metal, test if the box is grouded. You can
do this by buying one of those testers with three neon lamps at a
hardware store. Use a 3 to 2 adapter with the ground wire of the
adapter connected to the outlet-plate screw. If the tester shows that
the outlet box IS properly grounded, then all you need to do is use a
3-2 adapter and make sure the wire or tab from the adapter is securely
connected to the grounded screw of the wall box.
Also, if the box is properly grounded you can install a 3 prong outlet
in the box and connect the outlet ground to the box.

If there is truly no ground, you should have a serious talk with
building management about hiring an electrician to update the building's
electrical system. Otherwise there is a serious danger of electric
shock or electrocution if an appliance malfunctions. The ground is
there to protect you if an appliance's HOT wire shorts to the outer
cabinet or a contol knob or any other part you would normally touch.
While it is rare it DOES happen and that's why a ground is necessary.
Thanks all for the replies. Yes, the outlets are in fact ungrounded.
We took the covers off all the outlets and there's no ground wire
in any of them, not even in the bathrooms. The only one we
located is in the box for the 220V oven.

The complex is old but not _that_ old (built in 1962), and the type
of construction is such that there's no access to wall interiors. I
think that's why they've been able to get waivers for current code.
The owners would literally have to tear the buildings down to redo
the electrical wiring. We can't even get a second phone line
installed for the same reason.
 
CJT wrote:

tempus fugit wrote:

Tried the turining around the plug trick, but it made no difference. I
also
disconnected the phono plug that connects the tone arm to the amp unit,
which also made no difference.

Here is something curious though. I accidentally touched my scope
while my
hand was on the record player chassis and got a fairly good shock. The
scope
has a 3 prong AC plug (the record player doesn't). I should've
measured the
voltage difference between the sope chassis and the record player
chassis,
but I didn't think to. I'll have to do that. Perhaps he chassis is
live. I
didn't think this would be the case though, since there is a cap with the
negative connected to the case, as well as a few other green wires.


That capacitor might be leaking or (worse) shorted. It can be a lethal
failure (I read just this week about a minister in Waco who was
electrocuted during a baptism when he grabbed a microphone that was
"hot."). Be careful.
Here's a cite to that story:
http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2005/10/31/national/main995829.shtml

Thanks


"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in
message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_43612958@fidonet.org...
"tempus fugit" bravely wrote to "All" (27 Oct 05 11:17:42)
--- on the heady topic of "unit hums loudly regardless of volume"

tf> From: "tempus fugit" <toccata@no.spam.ciaccess.com
tf> Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:346437

tf> Hey all;

tf> I'm trying to repair an old tube portable record player. When it is
tf> on, it hums really loud, regardless of the volume.

Have you tried turning the ac plug around?

Which way the plug is inserted matters with these. Let the record
player warm up, then insert the plug one way or the other, and then
paint a mark for which was the quietest way. One way: lots of hum, the
other: quiet hiss.

Those old tube units used to get B+ directly from the powerline (or
sometimes a voltage doubler) and used a large value resistor bypassed
by a 0.01uF to RF ground the tone arm shielding to neutral. The power
for the filaments often came from a secondary winding in the motor
coil. Don't use this type of record player near the bathtub. Lethal!

Another possibility is a broken wire at the cartridge.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... Just a little force field zap.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
This is begining to sound like an arguement based soley on which company you
hate more, IBM or Microsoft. You each seem to be stating facts and then
coloring them to suit your own arguements. I personally dont care who
screwed who in the origins of the OS world, I only wish that there was some
form of real competition for MS and their huge market share to cause some
real inovation, choice and fair pricing.

"Mxsmanic" <mxsmanic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:26nbm159lankulsp18gidrvs0rg1vlmb9m@4ax.com...
David Maynard writes:

On the other hand, Microsoft decided to be simply a supplier of software
that ran on any clone.

A wise decision. Build an essential component, then encourage the
market to do the rest. If Apple had adopted the same philosophy,
there might be 50% Macs and 50% PCs today, instead of 4% Macs and 96%
PCs.

In fact, the 'Windows' GUI was originally developed as a means to run
Microsoft's 'Apple' business software, like Word, on PC clones and that
is
not a trivial distinction. While IBM was trying to sell an 'O.S.',
because
you 'have to' in order to sell hardware, Microsoft was selling Word
(and
the rest), which happened to run on Windows. It's the applications that
sold the O.S., not the O.S. by itself.

Yes. A simple difference but one that earns billions.

--
Transpose mxsmanic and gmail to reach me by e-mail.
 
I tested the cap and it showed about a half meg of resistance. maybe
something is shorted somehwere else. Oh, and I checked the voltage between
the record player chassis and the scope chassis - 120VAC (I thought that's
what it felt like). Odd though, I would think with 120v on the chassis that
it would pop a fuse at the breaker box.

Thanks


"CJT" <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:43665638.5000307@prodigy.net...
CJT wrote:

tempus fugit wrote:

Tried the turining around the plug trick, but it made no difference. I
also
disconnected the phono plug that connects the tone arm to the amp unit,
which also made no difference.

Here is something curious though. I accidentally touched my scope
while my
hand was on the record player chassis and got a fairly good shock. The
scope
has a 3 prong AC plug (the record player doesn't). I should've
measured the
voltage difference between the sope chassis and the record player
chassis,
but I didn't think to. I'll have to do that. Perhaps he chassis is
live. I
didn't think this would be the case though, since there is a cap with
the
negative connected to the case, as well as a few other green wires.


That capacitor might be leaking or (worse) shorted. It can be a lethal
failure (I read just this week about a minister in Waco who was
electrocuted during a baptism when he grabbed a microphone that was
"hot."). Be careful.


Here's a cite to that story:
http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2005/10/31/national/main995829.shtml

Thanks


"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in
message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_43612958@fidonet.org...
"tempus fugit" bravely wrote to "All" (27 Oct 05 11:17:42)
--- on the heady topic of "unit hums loudly regardless of volume"

tf> From: "tempus fugit" <toccata@no.spam.ciaccess.com
tf> Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:346437

tf> Hey all;

tf> I'm trying to repair an old tube portable record player. When it
is
tf> on, it hums really loud, regardless of the volume.

Have you tried turning the ac plug around?

Which way the plug is inserted matters with these. Let the record
player warm up, then insert the plug one way or the other, and then
paint a mark for which was the quietest way. One way: lots of hum, the
other: quiet hiss.

Those old tube units used to get B+ directly from the powerline (or
sometimes a voltage doubler) and used a large value resistor bypassed
by a 0.01uF to RF ground the tone arm shielding to neutral. The power
for the filaments often came from a secondary winding in the motor
coil. Don't use this type of record player near the bathtub. Lethal!

Another possibility is a broken wire at the cartridge.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... Just a little force field zap.






--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form che...@prodigy.net.
 
Jeff writes:

... I only wish that there was some
form of real competition for MS and their huge market share to cause some
real inovation, choice and fair pricing.
Well, write some applications for operating systems other than
Microsoft, and help the cause.

Remember, Microsoft is really only dominant for operating systems and
its Office suite of products. In other domains, someone else is
dominant. Office and operating systems won't keep Microsoft is
business forever.

--
Transpose mxsmanic and gmail to reach me by e-mail.
 
And USA is a modern and leading country ??????????

Although you may think Europeans are retarded, In France everybody has
electricity, water in the flat, a bathroom or at
least a shower and (even) lavatories that's not a scoop .... and earth
ground in the wall sockets ...

Most of us have at least one car some drive motorcycles and women are slim
smart cuties who wear fashion.
We also drink wine, eat cheese and we enjoy tasting foie gras without
mustard or pickles.

BTW do you know that mobile phones do exist ?
Perhaps this could be an alternative unless the provider is located too far
....




Our old apartment complex has ungrounded outlets. All 3-prong
appliances are connected with 3-to-2 adapters.

Assuming you are in the USA - 120V

The complex is old but not _that_ old (built in 1962), and the type
of construction is such that there's no access to wall interiors. I
think that's why they've been able to get waivers for current code.
The owners would literally have to tear the buildings down to redo
the electrical wiring.

We can't even get a second phone line installed for the same reason.
 
David Maynard wrote:
In fact, the 'Windows' GUI was originally developed as a means to run
Microsoft's 'Apple' business software, like Word, on PC clones and that is
not a trivial distinction. While IBM was trying to sell an 'O.S.', because
you 'have to' in order to sell hardware, Microsoft was selling Word (and
the rest), which happened to run on Windows.
Microsoft Word existed and was sold long before Windows 1.0 was on the
market.

--
If John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination,
my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin.
 
Aidan Grey wrote:
I believe the rectifiers you are describing use selenium. I
think anything containing selenium classes as toxic waste, and
must be disposed of properly.
You mean like Selsun Blue?

--
If John McCain gets the 2008 Republican Presidential nomination,
my vote for President will be a write-in for Jiang Zemin.
 
BillW50 wrote:
Hardly dead,

You mean hardly useful!

Imagine life without an ATM, or online access to banking? Without OS/2,
those things would only now be coming of age. Better yet, imagine an
ATM running Win95? they are crashing all over the place now that banks
are upgrading to M$. That never happened before, and it will only get
worse. The kiosks for printing digital pics in K-Mart, etc are littered
with blue screens, and even some sit stupidly with the start menu
desktop :) Its pathetic, but that is what American wants, so that is
what America gets.

And IBM dropped support a few months before they
were saying they would never drop OS/2 support. IBM has never done
anything except lie to me over and over again.
Hmmmm. IBM still has not fully dropped support for OS/2. After all, it
is ten years old, soon to be obsolete, yes, but go and ask M$ for
support on Win2000, and then ask yourself why you get upset when IBM
turns off OS/2.

I did a search through OS/2 files for the Microsoft copyright in Warp a
few years ago. And Warp was littered everywhere with Microsoft's code
throughout OS/2.
Again, the lack of knowledge by the newbie generation that thinks M$
invented computers....... M$ BOUGHT the rights to those portions of the
code, or took them with them when they left IBM, just as they have
BOUGHT everything else that makes up their products. Someone name one
decent piece of software that M$ CREATED from scratch. How about Bob?
Michael Jackson owns almost all the Beatles music, but you don't go
around saying he wrote them all, do you?

For those who were not even alive at the time, a lot happened between
IBM and billy bob that explains all these things.

The war is over, but M$ didn't win with superior technology. The fact
that there are more Fords on the American roads, than BMWs, is not a
statement that Ford is a superior product. Its a commentary on cheap,
and public relations, which is okay, so don't get torqued about it.
People want Fords, so they get Fords, but that doesn't make them
technically superior to a BMW or other high end, quality car.

People wanted M$ windows, so they got it. Its okay, there are no hard
feelings, but the number of sales does not equate the quality of the
product in any area of business. Ask Walmart about that.

www.ecomstation.com

Those who couldn't figure out how to use OS/2 because is was "too hard"
simply turned to an OS that does their thinking for them, and they got
what they deserved. That's fine. Nothing to get one's panties in a
bunch over. Most things worth using or having require the owner to be
above average in intelligence anyway.

Its really okay. Windows sucks. It always has. It always will. Not a
big deal, but those who do not know history ought to study it, and
learn it, rather than just rewriting it to fit their agenda.
 
"Zantafio" <Zantafio@hottemail.com> wrote in message
news:43667304$0$1732$8fcfb975@news.wanadoo.fr...
And USA is a modern and leading country ??????????

The USA was that already in 1944. Remember, that was the
time when many of the brave French people waved the white flag
to Hitler, until the USA, Canada and England fought for you and
gave you back your own freedom.... any more questions?
 
"Do Little2" <listed@space.com> wrote in message news:suv9f.1198$XR4.3595@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...
"Zantafio" <Zantafio@hottemail.com> wrote in message
news:43667304$0$1732$8fcfb975@news.wanadoo.fr...
And USA is a modern and leading country ??????????


The USA was that already in 1944. Remember, that was the
time when many of the brave French people waved the white flag
to Hitler, until the USA, Canada and England fought for you and
gave you back your own freedom.... any more questions?
Not sure what politics has to do with this, but if it weren't
for France America would still be a British colony.
 
On Mon, 31 Oct 2005 08:34:33 GMT, "Rick Yerger" <nospam@earthlink.net>
put finger to keyboard and composed:

Our old apartment complex has ungrounded outlets. All 3-prong
appliances are connected with 3-to-2 adapters.
Within the PC's power supply there will be two noise suppression caps
between A & E and N & E. This means that the PC's metal frame will
float to half mains potential. It's not dangerous, but you may feel a
spark or tingle whenever you touch the metalwork.

-- Franc Zabkar

Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.
 
geo73 Wrote:
Finished!

Resodering IC 37001 @ the board under the DVD tray.
Solution found at this website:
http:\\www.highlandelectrix.fsnet.co.uk
Sorry I couldnt find the solution, what exactly do I have to do to
repair the fault please. When you say re soldering do you mean I have
to clean off the old solder and then solder it again, is this because
the connection has broken? and is IC 37001 clearly marked on the
board.

Thankyou for your help with this.

Rgds
Mike


--
miketurner201
 
"Zantafio" <Zantafio@hottemail.com> wrote in message news:43667304$0$1732$8fcfb975@news.wanadoo.fr...
And USA is a modern and leading country ??????????

Although you may think Europeans are retarded, In France everybody has
electricity, water in the flat, a bathroom or at
least a shower and (even) lavatories that's not a scoop .... and earth
ground in the wall sockets ...
You have no idea.. Lack of grounding is just the start of
the fun in this apartment complex. That it hasn't burned to
the ground yet is nothing short of a miracle.

E.g. there's one 20A circuit to service the entire living room
AND kitchen. Want some toast? Better turn off the TV.

They have a dimmer switch in the bathroom that controls
both the lights and an exhaust fan. I guess for people who
want sexy mood lighting while taking a dump. But you
better not turn down the lights too much or else you'll
burn out the fan motor, and eventually start a fire.

The building is literally held together with duct tape and
string.

Most of us have at least one car some drive motorcycles and women are slim
smart cuties who wear fashion.
We also drink wine, eat cheese and we enjoy tasting foie gras without
mustard or pickles.

BTW do you know that mobile phones do exist ?
Perhaps this could be an alternative unless the provider is located too far
We're just grinning and bearing it, until we can get the hell
out of here in a few months.
 
tempus fugit wrote:

I tested the cap and it showed about a half meg of resistance.
We're talking about a capacitor between the chassis and one side
of the line, right?

It should be infinite (assuming you tested it out of the circuit).

When in doubt, replace it (or just snip it out and don't replace it).
Google "death cap" if you'd like some further opinions, typically from
the world of guitar amps.

maybe
something is shorted somehwere else. Oh, and I checked the voltage between
the record player chassis and the scope chassis - 120VAC
Reversing the plug in the wall socket should change that (but don't
count on it).

(I thought that's
what it felt like). Odd though, I would think with 120v on the chassis that
it would pop a fuse at the breaker box.
Not until your hair catches fire.

You really need to be careful with this device. I can't stress that
enough. Death is not to be trifled with.
Thanks


"CJT" <abujlehc@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:43665638.5000307@prodigy.net...

CJT wrote:


tempus fugit wrote:


Tried the turining around the plug trick, but it made no difference. I
also
disconnected the phono plug that connects the tone arm to the amp unit,
which also made no difference.

Here is something curious though. I accidentally touched my scope
while my
hand was on the record player chassis and got a fairly good shock. The
scope
has a 3 prong AC plug (the record player doesn't). I should've
measured the
voltage difference between the sope chassis and the record player
chassis,
but I didn't think to. I'll have to do that. Perhaps he chassis is
live. I
didn't think this would be the case though, since there is a cap with

the

negative connected to the case, as well as a few other green wires.


That capacitor might be leaking or (worse) shorted. It can be a lethal
failure (I read just this week about a minister in Waco who was
electrocuted during a baptism when he grabbed a microphone that was
"hot."). Be careful.


Here's a cite to that story:
http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2005/10/31/national/main995829.shtml


Thanks


"Asimov" <Asimov@-removethis-bbs.juxtaposition.dynip.com> wrote in
message
news:MSGID_1=3a167=2f133.0_43612958@fidonet.org...
"tempus fugit" bravely wrote to "All" (27 Oct 05 11:17:42)
--- on the heady topic of "unit hums loudly regardless of volume"

tf> From: "tempus fugit" <toccata@no.spam.ciaccess.com
tf> Xref: core-easynews sci.electronics.repair:346437

tf> Hey all;

tf> I'm trying to repair an old tube portable record player. When it

is

tf> on, it hums really loud, regardless of the volume.

Have you tried turning the ac plug around?

Which way the plug is inserted matters with these. Let the record
player warm up, then insert the plug one way or the other, and then
paint a mark for which was the quietest way. One way: lots of hum, the
other: quiet hiss.

Those old tube units used to get B+ directly from the powerline (or
sometimes a voltage doubler) and used a large value resistor bypassed
by a 0.01uF to RF ground the tone arm shielding to neutral. The power
for the filaments often came from a secondary winding in the motor
coil. Don't use this type of record player near the bathtub. Lethal!

Another possibility is a broken wire at the cartridge.

A*s*i*m*o*v

... Just a little force field zap.





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