Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

Thanks Kip. Some items will be very competitive others not so much. I
don't know what items you had a look at. I do appreciate your feedback.

http://e-parts.netfirms.com/




"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$2bkfji$mcm$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...
Best get those prices under control because us Tech,s do not pay those
prices.

kip
"DBLEXPOSURE" <celstuff@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:aYCdnR55Yct3EEzfRVn-uQ@rapidnet.com...
New electronics parts and supplies store. Discrete components, shop
supplies, parts and more.

Somewhat still under construction but many items available


http://e-parts.netfirms.com/
Click to expand...
 
Hmm...
Being a packrat for my entire life.........
(Yes, hundreds and hundreds of electronic things....)
Not worth it... out it all goes, except for the the stuff I will use
in retirement... 4CX10000B's, huge capacitors, inductors, tower
equipment, vacuum variables, etc.
Most of what I save for the future will never materialize into an end
product.... I am a realist.
 
Hmm...
Being a packrat for my entire life.........
(Yes, hundreds and hundreds of electronic things....)
Not worth it... out it all goes, except for the the stuff I will use
in retirement... 4CX10000B's, huge capacitors, inductors, tower
equipment, vacuum variables, etc.
Most of what I save for the future will never materialize into an end
product.... I am a realist.
 
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 16:59:15 -0500, "DBLEXPOSURE" <celstuff@hotmail.com> wrote:

Thanks Kip. Some items will be very competitive others not so much. I
don't know what items you had a look at. I do appreciate your feedback.

http://e-parts.netfirms.com/




"kip" <nospam@nospam.com> wrote in message
news:newscache$2bkfji$mcm$1@newsfeed.niagara.com...
Best get those prices under control because us Tech,s do not pay those
prices.

kip
"DBLEXPOSURE" <celstuff@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:aYCdnR55Yct3EEzfRVn-uQ@rapidnet.com...
New electronics parts and supplies store. Discrete components, shop
supplies, parts and more.

Somewhat still under construction but many items available


http://e-parts.netfirms.com/
Click to expand...
You really should change the color scheme on your menu bar on the left hand side
of the page. Black text on a dark background is very hard to read.

Go with contrasting colors... dark text on light background, or light text on
dark background.

==============

Dave M

Never take a laxative and a sleeping pill at the same time!!
 
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 18:56:23 -0400, Dave M <masondg4xx4@cxxomcast.net>
wrote:

You really should change the color scheme on your menu bar on the left hand side
of the page. Black text on a dark background is very hard to read.

Go with contrasting colors... dark text on light background, or light text on
dark background.
Click to expand...
Another suggestion to the OP:

Recommend that your category listing page (the one with all the nice
pictures of all of the items) default to either a "no pictures" page or
to a "thumbnails" page and then provide a link from there to a "show
images" page. Some folks still have slower connections and sometimes the
'net is just slow.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
Cant help you there, but if anyone needs any bits for a HP 695 I am about
to chuck one in the tip

David (NSW, Aust)

Stephen Lane wrote:

Stephen Lane wrote:
In the past someone has arranged to upload or make avail the HP
DesignJet 650C Manual.
Can someone point me in the right direction for the same
pdf preferably.

Regards
Stephen
Click to expand...
 
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 00:46:13 -0500 "Dave Moore"
<novalves@NOT-EDbellsouth.net> wrote in Message id:
<BB2Ae.66650$du.53385@bignews1.bellsouth.net>:

I ordered an Aopen MB from MCM awhile back
and even though the packaging had never been opened
before, all of the caps on the motherboard were
swollen.

I was unab'e to find any evidence of prior use and
concluded that the caps went bad from the board simply
sitting on the shelf in a warehouse somewhere.

MCM offered to send me a replacement, but
I figured they'd just send me another board with the same
problem so instead I just kept the board and replaced
all of the caps with hopefully superiorPanasonic
caps from Digkey

Fortunately the board worked and in fact, I just
typed this post on it :)
Click to expand...
That's the first time I've heard of caps swelling on an *unused* board. I
happen to have an Aopen s661FXm (gulp) What was the model number of your
board? Also, what was the brand name of the bad caps?

Thanks!
 
James Sweet wrote:
maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl> wrote in message
news:5bc48$42d0462c$82a12456$18507@news2.tudelft.nl...
Choreboy <choreboyREMOVE@localnet.com> wrote:
The computer output was easier for a probe, being holes. None of the 15
holes carried any signal I saw. Two sat at 5V. The rest were at
ground. With a DMM, one of the signal holes (horizontal sync, I think)
showed zero ohms, but that could be normal.

That's not normal, there should be at least 75 ohms to ground.


Which may be what 75 ohms looks like depending on the range the meter is set
on. I suspect there's visible damage inside the monitor, I'd open it up and
look at the board where the cable plugs in. Lightning is interesting stuff,
we don't get much of it out here though.
Click to expand...
I got 75 on the R, G, and B signal pins. Without a schematic, I
wondered if the sync pin was fed by a transformer, in which case zero
ohms could have been correct.

When I checked the monitor pins, a scope showed several problems. A
local drugstore chain has refurbished computers and monitors similar to
theirs for $250. Why fix it?
 
My own computer is a Mac. I think with a Mac, the display comes up
before it checks the memory. On a PC, would bad memory keep the monitor
light from turning green?

On the PC, a Compaq Presario 1710 I think, all ports except the modem
are on the motherboard. Would I need the hard drive to get the monitor
to light up?

Offhand, I remember I could unplug the floppy drive and the CD drive.

Could corrupted BIOS prevent the monitor from waking? It sounds as if
resetting the BIOS depends on what model the computer is. Macs have
PRAMs and CUDAs instead. The PRAM can be reset with keyboard
combination on atartup. The CUDA includes the pram and is reset with an
electrical switch. I don't think either can keep the monitor from
showing a green light.

Michael Kennedy wrote:
It won't ask for memory. You have to have memory in the pc for it to do
anything but beep. That's all you'll get without memory BEEEP BEEEP
BEEEP.... If you take everything out except the processor it should
beep..(including memory and vid card) Beeping a good sign and and means the
bios is working.

- Mike

"James Sweet" <jamessweet@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:Zmlze.14689$Yb4.6535@trnddc08...

"jakdedert" <jdedert@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:D7lze.40466$qm.19724@bignews5.bellsouth.net...

"Choreboy" <choreboyREMOVE@localnet.com> wrote in message
news:42CDDAFF.AC1C4CA5@localnet.com...
Neighbors have a computer that won't work after a lightning strike.
With the video cable connected, the monitor stays black and in the
standby mode. There are howls from the speakers, like feedback. With
the cable disconnected, the monitor will briefly show a notice that
it's
not connected. There are no howls from the speakers although the mic
cable remains connected.

With the power off, I checked the pins of the monitor cable to see that
the grounding pins were grounded and the signal pins were not. One
grounding pin is open, so it seems certain that the monitor is damaged.

The next step would be to try another monitor to see if there's other
damage to the system. In case the computer's video card is damaged,
can
a monitor be damaged by plugging in to it?

'Probably' not, but why not try plugging their monitor into your
computer?
That's extremely unlikely to cause any damage. Then, I'd take
*everything*
out of the neighbor's computer, except the vid card...unplug memory, all
drives including floppy...just leave in the CPU and vid card.



Actually I'd be more concerned about that causing damage than the other
way
around, but realistically either way should be fine.
Click to expand...
 
In sci.electronics.repair sofie <sofie@olypen.com> wrote:
: TDWesty:
: The best advice I can give you is to stay focused and fix the "Left Channel"
: problem.... then you can evaluate the overall performance and make a
: decision about a "shotgun" repair involving ALL of the caps.....
: personally, if the amp is working fine after your specific repair, I
: wouldn't fix it.....
: --
: Best Regards,
: Daniel Sofie
: Electronics Supply & Repair

Agreed. I have a Marantz receiver that is 30 years old. No reason to go in and
replace all of the capacitors. It works fine. Fix what is defective. Leave
it at that.

b.
 
In sci.electronics.repair TDWesty <vwdiesels@gmail.com> wrote:

: The one problem my amp has (see earlier post) seems to be isolated to
: the left channel infrasonic filter section. Assuming I can resolve this
: be replacing the caps in that section, should I just quit there?

I'd suggest finding the source of the problem vs. shotgunning parts that
are likely not to fix the problem. The "low impedence" capacitor is probably
a low ESR capacitor. Impedance is a result of the value of the capacitor
which is intrinsic, plus the inductive reactance of the leads/foils.

Most stereo equipment is "step and repeated" in their PC board designs.
You have one working side and one with low signal. Compare (using an
oscilloscope) the working side components vs. the nonworking side.
It's helpful to have a schematic to see where the positions of the
components are but a skilled technician/engineer can often follow the
signal paths by the physical layout.

I have repaired electronic equipment for decades and have never seen a
need to brute-force "every electrolytic capacitor" in any piece of
equipment. It just seems foolish to me. Especially if the equipment
has been in use (electrolytic capacitors do fail by "reversed polarity"

B.
 
On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 16:59:08 -0500, "Hugh Prescott"
<hugh345@adams.net> wrote:

If your area of interest is computer forensics then you have rendered the
forensic data on the drive null and void. Data recovery is now an extreamly
remote possibility.
Click to expand...
It wasn't area of interest, it was "expertise".

Tom


Had the drive not been opened it would normally be possible to have a data
recovery house repair the drive and recover the data to a CD.

Last drive recovery for a client was a failed Novell data drive due to a
single head going open. Drive repair was something like $50, data recovery
to a CD was $1,600.

And never trust a drive after a failure, It's not worth it.

And yes I have poped the top on drives with striction and got them spinning
without a clean room. Quick burn to a CD and install a new drive. Sometimes
you are luck, mostly not.

Hugh



metrix007@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1120912581.146680.107280@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...


Art wrote:
Having opened the case and subjecting the platters and heads to nominal
atmospheric contaminates will probably render any recovery highly
improbable. This is one of the last things you want to do, maybe just to
harvest the nice magnets from the inside or if you like the see the
mirror
finishes on the platters. At this point you are basically FUBARD as far
a
recovery is concerned.
ceraboy@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1120873485.440330.16560@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
You can get the data recovered for several hundred dollars, but it may
take a bit of time to send it in and you are not guaranteed the data
will be recovered in which you still pay the money. You have to ask
yourself, is the data really worth a backup. The fact that you opened
the hermetic case in a non-clean room environment lessens the ability
to recover the data at all and some houses may not even accept the
drive.

http://www.gillware.com/?campaign=google3


It would be nice to have my data back, but its not crucial in any way..

My expertise is in computer forensics, if there was any way to get a
bios to recognise my harddrive, I could then recover what i need, as
the two files I am after are each less than 25kb in size. Is it
possible at all to repair or replace the arm and heads, or transfer the
platters to a different drive?

Thanks
Click to expand...
 
I got 75 on the R, G, and B signal pins. Without a schematic, I
wondered if the sync pin was fed by a transformer, in which case zero
ohms could have been correct.

When I checked the monitor pins, a scope showed several problems. A
local drugstore chain has refurbished computers and monitors similar to
theirs for $250. Why fix it?
Click to expand...

Personally I'd give it a shot just because I can, but you're right in that
it's not worth spending a great deal of time or money on it.
 
"Choreboy" <choreboyREMOVE@localnet.com> wrote in message
news:42D2ABDD.FC3D95CC@localnet.com...
My own computer is a Mac. I think with a Mac, the display comes up
before it checks the memory. On a PC, would bad memory keep the monitor
light from turning green?
Click to expand...

It can, it really depends on the fault though. If the RAM is bad in a
location that prevents the POST from running then the display adapter will
never be initialized. Seems I've had Macs with bad enough RAM that they
wouldn't show anything on the screen either but I haven't had a ton of
exposure to the recent ones.
 
"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:42D1E046.4BE2BE90@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Cant help you there, but if anyone needs any bits for a HP 695 I am about
to chuck one in the tip

David (NSW, Aust)
Click to expand...

I didn't think the HP 695 is a large format printer, are you sure you aren't
confusing the DeskJet models with the DesignJet? If you were scrapping a
DesignJet, I'd probably be interested to see if it has parts compatible with
a 2500CP.

Wes.
 
No confusion here Wes as I didn't intend to suggest that the 695 was a large
format printer. I was just hijacking the original post, but in a good cause.

I will keep my eyes open for a large format printer though, and will post here
if I find one. I think I saw one at the tip last week, so will check next time
I visit.

cheers

David


"Wes." wrote:

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:42D1E046.4BE2BE90@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Cant help you there, but if anyone needs any bits for a HP 695 I am about
to chuck one in the tip

David (NSW, Aust)

I didn't think the HP 695 is a large format printer, are you sure you aren't
confusing the DeskJet models with the DesignJet? If you were scrapping a
DesignJet, I'd probably be interested to see if it has parts compatible with
a 2500CP.

Wes.
Click to expand...
 
James Sweet wrote:
"Choreboy" <choreboyREMOVE@localnet.com> wrote in message
news:42D2ABDD.FC3D95CC@localnet.com...
My own computer is a Mac. I think with a Mac, the display comes up
before it checks the memory. On a PC, would bad memory keep the monitor
light from turning green?


It can, it really depends on the fault though. If the RAM is bad in a
location that prevents the POST from running then the display adapter will
never be initialized. Seems I've had Macs with bad enough RAM that they
wouldn't show anything on the screen either but I haven't had a ton of
exposure to the recent ones.
Click to expand...
Well, a man more familiar with PCs got the display going by removing the
CPU and plugging it back in. I suppose in each case where I'd found an
open ground on the computer or monitor, its counterpart supplied the
necessary ground. He found it still needs a new motherboard.
 
James Sweet wrote:
I got 75 on the R, G, and B signal pins. Without a schematic, I
wondered if the sync pin was fed by a transformer, in which case zero
ohms could have been correct.

When I checked the monitor pins, a scope showed several problems. A
local drugstore chain has refurbished computers and monitors similar to
theirs for $250. Why fix it?

Personally I'd give it a shot just because I can, but you're right in that
it's not worth spending a great deal of time or money on it.
Click to expand...
A motherboard was $52 with shipping.
 
Hi Mike & Jim,
I didn't see this thread before posting a new EC2001 thread. How did
you resolve your problem?

My EC2001 bench unit has normal readout, but doesn't heat. The 28V
output and on-board regulator seem OK. Do you have a schematic? Just
voltage and resistance readings on the base, & EC1201A [or EC1201P]
would be very helpful. I may just have heater &/or temperature sensor
problems.

Thanks,
Jack_son
==========================================

Michael Fiedler Wrote:
On Sat, 6 Mar 2004 11:19:18 -0800, "Jim Babcock" jimbab5@juno.com
wrote:
The controller has gone out on my station. The LED shows random numbers
&
the temperature does not control. The control board is a ceramic
hybrid
type. Can these be repaired, or should I just replace it? thanks
- - - - - - - - - -= - - -
We have had loads of problems with these at work. Usually the price
of repairing them approaches over half the cost of replacing them.
Those boards probably cost $80 or more, as we have checked on them
several times. The only thing worth replacing on the station is the
temperature sensor and the tip. Maybe someone else has a different
idea on this................

Mike
Click to expand...

--
Jack_son
 
Greetings HFS,

Sorry to hear about your misfortune. I own a DX4330 and love it. Still use
it for parties and such. How do you know the flash is broken. Is the flash
module physically damaged? If not, check to be sure you have not set the
camera to no flash. Try a few shots after changing the flash options. When
you lost the module what were the circumstances?

If you do decide to repair the camera your self, especially work with the
flash, please note that it can send a significant charge so be very careful.
It could hurt you.

FYI and good luck. Let me know what you find.

Ron Baird
Eastman Kodak Company



<hfs2@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1120788873.522275.132850@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
I'm not sending this camera in for repair so ...

Anyone been inside these things? I've got a Kodak dx4330
digital camera that just lost it's flash.

Anyone have schematics?

Bad flash.... is it usually the tube or the trigger? Can
you read the partnumber of the components, or does Kodak
house number?

I can get a broken dx4330 on ebay for about $15. Is it worth it
for parts?. And so on .....

Suggestions? Thanks
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top