Toshiba TV29C90 problem; Image fades to black...

[Inty]

<sidneybek@yahoo.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120492899.428351.31300@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

27" Memorex stereo tv model:MT1127,chassis:11AK19-8A (Vestel
chassis,commonly made in Turkey),year:Sept 1999,UL Listed:42GF.Unit has
RCA crt (made in Italy).

Very strange, a Memorex with a Vestel ! (Oh, a thing made in Italy ;-))

but they don't list model:MT1127 as it is not made by Orion or Emerson
but instead made by Vestel with a Vestel chassis of 11AK19 (also know
as 11AK19P5) and sold in many parts of the world as 27" Teac stereo
model:EU-68ST,chassis:11AK19 made in Turkey.

http://www.eserviceinfo.com/repair_tips.php?search_rt=11ak19
there are 7 pages with 11AK19 tips. On this site
www.eserviceinfo.com there are also various 11AK19 schematics.

I.

 

[Inty]

<sidneybek@yahoo.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:1120492899.428351.31300@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

(...)
Also see
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/repair_tips_database/Various_001.html
http://www.eserviceinfo.com/repair_tips_database/Vestel_001.html
http://tinyurl.com/8cwea
http://www.smartgroups.com/vault/Esquemas/TV_Vestel_Chassis_11AK19.pdf
http://www.smartgroups.com/groups/Esquemas
http://groups.google.it/groups?q=11ak19&hl=it

I.

 

[tibou64]

salut Zyrg,

Je cherches moi aussi un VPH 05. J'ai lu ton post et je suis interessé
pour en svoir plus sur le vph03 pour eventuellement remplacer par celui
la.
J'ai un moniteur dans le style du tien, (xc3725c) et apres reparation avec
un VPH05B, la réparation n'a pas tenu et de toute facon il ne
correspondait pas a 100% (manque de puissance, je pense) il etait sur le
rouge et mon rouge, meme au maxi etait faible.

Si t'as quoi que ce soit comme infos je suis preneur sur cette ref.
Si tu peux egalement m'envoyer les datashhet des vph05 et vph03, ca serait
bien.

Mon mail est chrisdore@tele2.fr

a plus

 

[none]

On Mon, 04 Jul 2005 07:13:28 GMT, "NSM" <nowrite@to.me> wrote:

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov.> wrote in message
news:Xns9688D391651E4jyanikkuanet@129.250.170.85...

IIRC,the OP wanted to clean off a PCB's tarnish.
I'd like to see you use your diamond file on a PCB for tarnish removal.

But the topic drifted to "hi current contacts"

For PCBs I'd use an acid.

N


They used to make something called "board washer" or something like

that. An aerosol spray that cleaned gunk and removed tarnish from
entire circuit boards. My old man had a can or two of it way back when
he had an electronics repair shop.
I seem to remember a similar spay cleaner during my Navy days in
avionics corrosion control, though it came in a unmarked green can
with just a mil spec number.
There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <vchkc11sj3m7skc1r4ddgah3t63g113e8i@4ax.com>,
none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:

There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.

Trouble is you can't guarantee they won't leave some form of coating on
the copper that isn't good for soldering. After all, they're not made for
this job.

I favour mechanical cleaning. Fine wire wool or like I said a fibreglass
pencil which is made for the job.

--
*Any connection between your reality and mine is purely coincidental

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Inty]

"tibou64" <chrisdore@tele2.fr> ha scritto nel messaggio
news:815f1c2ef84a0d06f9ea474dcb47f08f@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
(...)

Hello. This is a worldwide newsgroup, and the main language used is English.
Not anyone can read french...

I.

 

[Art]

+15 Volt supply diode, they go leaky and cause a whole slew of aggrivations.
"Do Little2" <listed@space.com> wrote in message
news:Jfiye.6074$EP2.28745@newscontent-01.sprint.ca...

On 4 Jul 2005 10:01:24 -0700, "pink" <dapinkie@gmail.com> wrote:

I have an RCA rear projection TV P46725SK - set is plugged in and was
working fine until today when I tried to turn it on. I can hear a
faint "click click click" from the vicinity of the flyback transformer
when the power button is pressed. The power light blinks in unison
with the clicking sound. I'd like to fix this puppy since I don't have
the cash for a new TV right now and it's so heavy I dread getting it
out of the house. Help!

I remember a few CTC 169's with the sound output IC shorted.
That could cause it to go into the shutdown mode. Suggestion,
remove the power for the audio IC and see if the TV will start.

 

[Mark D. Zacharias]

"Telly" <tchm@uiuc.edu> wrote in message
news:1120549130.847836.63910@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

Dear Inty and Mark,

Thank you both.

Please, forgive my ignorance, but don't I need to remove the black
plastic
cage that surrounds the power supply in order to get to the capacitors?
I have
removed the top and bottom covers and the front panel, but I do not see
an easy
way to expose the parts of the power supply. That is why I thought of
asking for
the possible existence of an online service manual or equivalent --to
avoid
bothering other people with my questions.

Thank you again,
Telly

If the power supply is not plainly seen to be removable, it must be an older
one with much more difficult access. Probably not a doit-yourself type
repair for most people.
On the older ones. the front panel must be removed, and a fairly complicated
disassembly done just to gain access. Not a big problem for a technician (
that's why we make the big money after all - NOT), but unless you've done
this sort of thing before, perhaps better left to a professional.

Mark Z.

 

[Mike Berger]

It's a zero sum game. If he doesn't fix the existing one, it
will end up in the dump. So he might as well fix that, and not
have to pay the cost of hauling one for parts and then disposing
of it.

NSM wrote:

I see whole stoves for free on freecycle.org so why not keep one out of the
dump? Maybe you can find a similar stove even?

N

 

[Ol' Duffer]

In article <1120574587.018956.165180@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
hgoodale_msp@msn.com says...

I know that horizontal shaft engines are easiest to convert and
I should be able to find an old roto tiller or something similar,
but have no idea how to make a working drive train from motor
to wheels. I was thinking of making the frame out of wood and
re-inforcing with angle iron since its much easier to shape.

Tiller engines in the 3 to 5 HP range are plentiful and easy to
work with. A simple, common drive consists of a centrifugal
clutch with integral drive sprocket on the engine and a larger
sprocket attached to one of the rear wheels. Don't skimp on
brakes, very important. Northern Equipment carries a variety
of stuff from engines to wheels and plans to kits. For safety
and durability, I'd avoid wood for any of the frame or suspension.
You can do a lot with angle iron using a good drill and hacksaw.

 

[sofie]

Allodoxaphobia:
Save your top posting editorial for a different newsgroup..... if you have
not noticed yet, more than half of the long time regulars on this group top
post in a very appropriate way.
Back in the early days of user groups and early newsreaders your argument
would have been more accepted but if done properly, top posting is much
easier to deal with when working with many threads. Bottom posting works
OK as long as the previous thread material is snipped or eliminated and is
not miles long.
To coin a politically correct phrase these days..... be more tolerant.
--
Best Regards,
Daniel Sofie
Electronics Supply & Repair
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -


"Allodoxaphobia" <bit-bucket@config.com> wrote in message
news:slrndcjer0.rkb.bit- This happens ALL the time.

Yep. _That_ , and top-posting.

 

[Andy Cuffe]

On 4 Jul 2005 16:22:59 -0700, richard.j.childress@gmail.com wrote:

Hi,

I just recovered the old monitor that I used to use for my C64 and
later for my game systems. After recovering it, I tried to use it with
my vintage NES. When I turned it on, I had major trouble adjusting the
color, but everything else more or less worked. I opened the case to
try to clear any gunk that had accumulated near the front, but after
reassembling it , I get nothing on the screen. Just black. (Audio works
better than before though )

Is there something obvious that might have happened? Is it dead? Is
there a way that I can verify it's dead?

ps. I'm an electronics n00b.

Try adjusting the control on the flyback transformer marked "screen"
or "G2". When you turn this clockwise, you should see something on
the screen. If you only see a think horizontal line, look for a
switch on the CRT board, or main board that's labeled "service" and
try switching it. If you then get a picture change it back to the
service mode and adjust the screen control until you get a very dim
white line.
Andy Cuffe

baltimora@psu.edu <-- Use this address until 12/31/2005

acuffe@gmail.com <-- Use this address after 12/31/2005

 

[NSM]

"Inty" <inty.the.best@email.it> wrote in message
news:SPsye.114909$75.5106147@news4.tin.it...

"tibou64" <chrisdore@tele2.fr> ha scritto nel messaggio

news:815f1c2ef84a0d06f9ea474dcb47f08f@localhost.talkaboutelectronicequipment.com...
(...)

Hello. This is a worldwide newsgroup, and the main language used is
English.
Not anyone can read french...

salut Zyrg,

Je cherches moi aussi un VPH 05. J'ai lu ton post et je suis interessé
pour en svoir plus sur le vph03 pour eventuellement remplacer par celui
la.
J'ai un moniteur dans le style du tien, (xc3725c) et apres reparation avec
un VPH05B, la réparation n'a pas tenu et de toute facon il ne
correspondait pas a 100% (manque de puissance, je pense) il etait sur le
rouge et mon rouge, meme au maxi etait faible.

Si t'as quoi que ce soit comme infos je suis preneur sur cette ref.
Si tu peux egalement m'envoyer les datashhet des vph05 et vph03, ca serait
bien.

Mon mail est chrisdore@tele2.fr

a plus

It would help if it was grammatical French and spelled correctly!

Hello Zyrg,
I seek to me also a VPH 05. I read your post and I am interested to see some
more on the vph03 for if required replacing by that.

I have a monitor in the style of the tien?, (xc3725c) and after repair with
a VPH05B, repair did not hold and in any way it did not correspond has 100%
(lack of power, I think) it etait? on the red and my red, same with maximum
etait? weak.

If have you anything as infos I am taking on this ref.
If you can also send the datasheet to me (for the) vph05 and vph03, that
would be well. My email is chrisdore@tele2.fr

 

[Highland Ham]

Two RF transistors, 2SC1970 and 2SC1971 are supposed to have BEC
pinouts according to data sheets. However, it seems that such
transistors with BCE pinout also exist; resistors in one circuit caught
on-fire when I plugged a 2SC1971 into a BEC socket (based on data
sheets, I assumed the transistor had BEC pinout). After replacing the
resistors and bending the leads of the transistor, the circuit worked
properly. Yes, the socket was wired correctly for BEC pinout. Has
anyone ever come across the BCE pinout versions of 2SC1970 and/or
2SC1971?
==================================

According to Tower's International Transistor Selector , both 2SC1970 (Ic
max=0.5A) and 2SC1971 (Ic max =1A) are NPN RF power transistors in a TO220
package
Pinout 2SC1970 is BCE
Pinout 2SC1971 is BEC

The above pinouts are confirmed by the (PDF format) datasheets which I found
by doing a Google.

Frank GM0CSZ / KN6WH

 

[none]

On 5 Jul 2005 07:43:07 -0700, "spongehead" <hgoodale_msp@msn.com>
wrote:

I did some searching in the news groups but didnt quite find what I was
looking for. I would like a project for me and my 10 year old son,
he's quite crafty with his K'nex and legos always making some weird
contraption along with the old pc parts and vcr's. So I thought it
would be nice to move on to something larger scale, like a go kart or
something similar. I know that horizontal shaft engines are easiest to
convert and I should be able to find an old roto tiller or something
similar, but have no idea how to make a working drive train from motor
to wheels. I was thinking of making the frame out of wood and
re-inforcing with angle iron since its much easier to shape.
I was hoping that theres some diagrams or pics out there and maybe a
few helpful hints

Most simple go karts use a simple centrifical clutch and chain
sprocket setup.
Try any small engine repair shop for the parts at a decent price.
You'll need a horizontal shaft engine, say a Briggs or a Techumseh.
A centrifical clutch and sprocket assembly to match the shaft size of
said engine, a few feet of chain and a final drive sprocket and shaft.
Also drive hubs and wheels.
I've seen some older models of riding mowers adapted for use as a
go-kart. You might look into that also.

 

[none]

On Tue, 05 Jul 2005 10:48:21 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
<dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

In article <vchkc11sj3m7skc1r4ddgah3t63g113e8i@4ax.com>,
none <Vampyres@nettaxi.com> wrote:
There are plenty of copper cleaners on the market that might give the
desired results with a little care and an acid brush or q-tip.
Never Dull might be the best bet. It's cotton balls that are doped
with a copper cleaning solvent. Can be gotten at any hardware or
marine supply shop. Should be safe for any of the components and
they're water free.

Trouble is you can't guarantee they won't leave some form of coating on
the copper that isn't good for soldering. After all, they're not made for
this job.

I favour mechanical cleaning. Fine wire wool or like I said a fibreglass
pencil which is made for the job.

Easy, you follow up the de-tarnishing of the surface copper with a
light washing with a decent contact cleaner. Say crc electro wash and
a bit of compressed air to blow it off?

 

[pink]

Would installing Tritronic's Common Failure Repair Kit (p/n
CTC169-KIT-PTV) do the trick?

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

Hitachi supplies service documentation for free online to any qualified shop
that signs up with then. They do make you agree to abide by their rules for
distributing their materials, which restricts this kind of distribution.
Hitachi deserves praise for such open and free support. Abusing the service
that they provide is unethical and I suggest avoiding using sites that
operate in such a manner.

Leonard

<lardonna@snet.net> wrote in message
news:biTze.2241$Xp6.125@newssvr33.news.prodigy.com...

http://fletchersite.com/ht1.html

 

[Leonard Caillouet]

What is the problem in the power supply that causes the HV divider to fail?
I have fixed many of these and while we routinely go through the PS I have
not ben aware of the PS causing the divider to fail.

Leonard

<dkuhajda@locl.net> wrote in message
news:1120944451.316954.211540@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...

And repair the main smps power supply which is the typical cause of the
hv block failure.
Do not forget the hv splitter rubber insulation boots that are on all
the wires.

 

[James Sweet]

<maarten@panic.xx.tudelft.nl> wrote in message
news:5bc48$42d0462c$82a12456$18507@news2.tudelft.nl...

Choreboy <choreboyREMOVE@localnet.com> wrote:
The computer output was easier for a probe, being holes. None of the 15
holes carried any signal I saw. Two sat at 5V. The rest were at
ground. With a DMM, one of the signal holes (horizontal sync, I think)
showed zero ohms, but that could be normal.

That's not normal, there should be at least 75 ohms to ground.

Which may be what 75 ohms looks like depending on the range the meter is set
on. I suspect there's visible damage inside the monitor, I'd open it up and
look at the board where the cable plugs in. Lightning is interesting stuff,
we don't get much of it out here though.