Stubborn 3mm screws

[Mike Tomlinson]

In article <85fa5e20-ac48-445d-971f-ef9ec560b0d8@13g2000yql.googlegroups
..com>, Ancient_Hacker <grg2@comcast.net> writes

take your sharpest pair of diagonal cutters and grab the head from
above. Unless the screw is made of hardened steel, the blades will
get a good grip and allow you to break the screw loose with a twist.

Buggers the cutters though, and they're not cheap.

--
(\__/)
(='.'=) Bunny says Windows 7 is Vi$ta reloaded.
(")_(")

 

[Jamie]

N_Cook wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:50064e2d1bdave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <49326C9E.D66B0D56@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's
a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle
that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi
versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification.

Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A set
of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of
the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to a
decent tool supplier for them.

--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades
residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A
middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of small
size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the piss, like
asking for long stands, golden rivets etc.

( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often releasing,
in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc )


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


We call them Easy outs over here.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[Jamie]

Nelson wrote:

On Sat, 29 Nov 2008 05:20:15 -0500, Eeyore wrote
(in article <4931175F.7AD4A497@hotmail.com&gt:


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive


Well, you learn something every day

That's over stepping it a little isn't it?

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[N_Cook]

Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:MuAYk.4987$%M6.3262@newsfe13.iad...

N_Cook wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:50064e2d1bdave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <49326C9E.D66B0D56@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's
a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle
that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi
versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification.

Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A
set
of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of
the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to
a
decent tool supplier for them.

--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades
residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A
middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of
small
size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the piss,
like
asking for long stands, golden rivets etc.

( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often
releasing,
in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc )


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/


We call them Easy outs over here.


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

Not the same thing at all, other than having LH thread of sorts. That's what
you use after drilling a hole, but what do you use for say <4mm studs/busted
or seized screws ? - LH drill bits.

Where I used to work there was a full set of LH bits in a case covered in
hazard tape and warning messages.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Jamie]

N_Cook wrote:

Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:MuAYk.4987$%M6.3262@newsfe13.iad...

N_Cook wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:50064e2d1bdave@davenoise.co.uk...


In article <49326C9E.D66B0D56@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:


I use Stanley screwdrivers almost exclusively for serious work. There's
a particular series with a very comfortable asymmetric moulded handle
that is normally red (including the Phillips versions) but the Pozi
versions are all a slightly dark blue to aid immediate identification.

Stanley these days are pretty mediocre. Plenty of much better makes. A

set

of screwdrivers from Lidl etc is likely to last longer for a fraction of
the cost. But if you want good stuff, try Wera. But you'll need to go to

a

decent tool supplier for them.

--
*A woman drove me to drink and I didn't have the decency to thank her

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.



ah, decent tool supplier. I went to my otherwise respected decades
residency, local engineering tool supplier , a couple of years back. A
middle aged bloke on the counter, not teenager. I asked what range of

small

size left hand drill bits they had - he thought I was taking the piss,

like

asking for long stands, golden rivets etc.

( used in drills with reverse action for drilling out and often

releasing,

in the process, seized screws , broken studes etc )


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



We call them Easy outs over here.


http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"




Not the same thing at all, other than having LH thread of sorts. That's what
you use after drilling a hole, but what do you use for say <4mm studs/busted
or seized screws ? - LH drill bits.

Where I used to work there was a full set of LH bits in a case covered in
hazard tape and warning messages.

We only use LH bits only in the hopes that maybe the remainder will

spin out as we're drilling. Mostly for small holes where easy outs are
not practical. Even with that, our machinist still don't have much
better luck, than just simply drilling out the hole as close as possible
with a RH bit and run a tap down through it.

Most of the problems I hand over to the machinist have loctite broken
screws heads..

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[N_Cook]

Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:9jBYk.6593$no6.381@newsfe04.iad...

N_Cook wrote:

Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
message
news:MuAYk.4987$%M6.3262@newsfe13.iad...

N_Cook wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:50064e2d1bdave@davenoise.co.uk...


In article <49326C9E.D66B0D56@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

We only use LH bits only in the hopes that maybe the remainder will
spin out as we're drilling. Mostly for small holes where easy outs are
not practical. Even with that, our machinist still don't have much
better luck, than just simply drilling out the hole as close as possible
with a RH bit and run a tap down through it.

Most of the problems I hand over to the machinist have loctite broken
screws heads..

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

This is the situation I commonly find, small screws, written up as a tip for
others

To free seized equipment knobs
For the situation where the knobs are seized onto the shaft by rusted
grub screws,especially where the screw penetrates the shaft;
after you have butchered the grub screw slot try this.
And it is one of ten virtually irreplaceable knobs.
Make up some guide tubes,small enough to just slide into the hole
in the knob containing the grub screw,these tubes drilled on a lathe with
a clearance bore to take a drill bit. This drill bit usually needs to be
extended by brazing onto a longish rod (so the chuck of the
drill misses the face of the equipment).
Use some cutting oil and drill into the grub screw.
Ideally use left hand drill bits and left-handed power drill
rotation, such drill bits are available from specialist suppliers.
To convert a right hand drill bit well enough for this use grind the
cutting face back on the opposite rake angle, swarf clearance
is not relevant here. Often the bite into the drill bit
into the screw or the localised vibration or heating is enough to
shift the screw.
Now use a small "easi out"(maybe this is a UK trade name),but consist
of a coarse left-handed cutting thread on a coarse taper.
Wind into the hole in the grub screw and hopefully extract.
I don't use easi-outs as the smallest ones for this
purpose are very week and if it breaks you have
a lump of high carbon steel just where you don't want it.
Maybe appropriate for very large knobs only.
If this fails repeat the first procedure with larger diameter drill bits
and appropriate protection sleeves
until nothing remains of the grub screw,retap a larger hole and use
a larger grub screw for knob reuse.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Ross Herbert]

On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 17:11:06 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

hilips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
:screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
:soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the
:heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other
:ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a
:standard (large) impact driver ?


If you aren't succesful at removing the screws, and you don't want to grind them
off and then use a small ezi-out - getting that small hole centred is a pita -
then you might try the Rolson damaged screw and bolt remover kit
http://www.rolsontools.com/search.asp?page=1&id=376&tt=1&ct=1&searchCat=0&searchStock=28997

Maplin currently have it on sale for UKP8.99. It claims to be good down to 3mm
screws and might be useful for the future.

 

[Fred McKenzie]

In article <493282C2.628EF299@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

But Pozi screws are now
somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I
can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver.

I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and
Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a
driver that hasn't had its tip rounded.

Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive?

Fred

 

[Ron Johnson]

Fred McKenzie wrote:

In article <493282C2.628EF299@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

But Pozi screws are now
somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I
can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver.

I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and
Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a
driver that hasn't had its tip rounded.

Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive?

I don't know if it`s always the case with chinese made screws, but a
true posidrive screw should have an embossed X on the head at 45 degrees
to the X formed by the slots.

Ron(UK)

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <fmmck-1D2345.22203201122008@nntp.aioe.org>,
Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com> wrote:

But Pozi screws are now
somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I
can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver.

I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and
Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a
driver that hasn't had its tip rounded.

Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive?

In theory Pozidriv screws should be identified by an engraved cross on the
head - but I'm not sure this is always done with bright finish ones
designed to be seen.

--
*Santa's helpers are subordinate clauses*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Eeyore]

Ron Johnson wrote:

Fred McKenzie wrote:
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

But Pozi screws are now
somewhat more universal than Phillips for all the design reasons stated. I
can hardly remember when I last had to use a Phillips driver.

I've been using a #1 Phillips driver for the case screws on my Icom and
Kenwood Ham Radio equipment. It seems to work OK, as long as I use a
driver that hasn't had its tip rounded.

Does anyone know if these particular screws are actually PoziDrive?

I don't know if it`s always the case with chinese made screws, but a
true posidrive screw should have an embossed X on the head at 45 degrees
to the X formed by the slots.

True.

My best bet however is to try several 'heads' from my driver and see which 'locks
in' best. It's often VERY obvious !

Graham

 

[Fred McKenzie]

In article <493522FE.5FBAB7BD@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

My best bet however is to try several 'heads' from my driver and see which
'locks
in' best. It's often VERY obvious !

I tried Phillips 0 and 1, as well as Pozidrive 0 and 1, on some Kenwood
and Icom case screws. On the Kenwood, all 4 bits felt about the same!
On the Icom, the PZ1 felt much more secure.

The Icom screw heads have a small dimple where the PZ "X" might be.
Since they are somewhat small screws, I wonder if the dimple is an
abbreviated symbol for Pozidrive?

Fred