Stubborn 3mm screws

[N_Cook]

Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the
heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other
ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a
standard (large) impact driver ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ggmk8d$bca$1@news.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over
the heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any
other ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow
fit a standard (large) impact driver ?

I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant for
such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that had
been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.

--
*Windows will never cease *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Jamie]

N_Cook wrote:

Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the
heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other
ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a
standard (large) impact driver ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/



Get your self an impact driver. They come in the manual or

power driven type..
A manual with a small hammer will do just fine to break them
loose.

http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5"

 

[N_Cook]

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:5004e5a089dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <ggmk8d$bca$1@news.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over
the heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any
other ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow
fit a standard (large) impact driver ?

I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant for
such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that had
been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.

--
*Windows will never cease *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Is the Makita function left-handed percusive torque with only marginal
rotation or as a conventional power drill with hammer action, ie requiring
rotation of the driver shaft to activate the hammering ?


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Ancient_Hacker]

take your sharpest pair of diagonal cutters and grab the head from
above. Unless the screw is made of hardened steel, the blades will
get a good grip and allow you to break the screw loose with a twist.
Works 98% of the time.

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ggn61g$t2e$1@news.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant
for such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that
had been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.

Is the Makita function left-handed percusive torque with only marginal
rotation or as a conventional power drill with hammer action, ie
requiring rotation of the driver shaft to activate the hammering ?

Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.

--
*To err is human. To forgive is against company policy.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Puddin' Man]

On Thu, 27 Nov 2008 17:11:06 -0000, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change.

Heating the phillips head? Metal expands with heat.

If it threads into metal, you might try heating the metal it
threads into. And, of course, all manner of solvents. Do
you have Liquid Wrench over there?

Just little thoughts ...

P

"Take Yo' Hand Out My Pocket (I Ain't Got Nothing What Belongs To You)!"
- Rice Miller, who probably never even _heard_ of GW Bush, Paulson, etc

 

[z]

On Nov 27, 12:11 pm, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Philips heads , but glued or varnished in and any more torque on the
screwdriver will strip the head. I've tried heating for a minute with
soldering iron, no change. Have now left a dollop of paint stripper over the
heads overnight. Before using a left hand drill or griding off , any other
ideas ? Converting the cut off shaft of a screw driver to somehow fit a
standard (large) impact driver ?

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

if it's accessible grabbing the head with a vicegrips or similar;
maybe the "long nose" variety.

 

[N_Cook]

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:5005080a27dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <ggn61g$t2e$1@news.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
I have a small impact driver - Makita TD020D - which is just brilliant
for such things. The impact mechanism means far less chance of 'slot'
damage/cam out. It even took out some door hinge slotted screws that
had been painted over.

One of the best power tools ever made.


Is the Makita function left-handed percusive torque with only marginal
rotation or as a conventional power drill with hammer action, ie
requiring rotation of the driver shaft to activate the hammering ?

Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.

--
*To err is human. To forgive is against company policy.

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

I'll have to look into this, I had assumed that motorised impact drivers
were were rotational rather than percusive torque.
So you can select just the percussive action in a reverse sense on its own
without engaging the screwdriver rotation ? I've not seen it explicitly
stated on the blurb I've read so far. Looks like a crizzy prezz if so.


--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ggohcu$5dp$1@news.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.

I'll have to look into this, I had assumed that motorised impact drivers
were were rotational rather than percusive torque.

Difficult to explain - they sort of whack the thing round. When driving in
a screw obviously the rotation stops at some point otherwise it would
shear. And obviously too when removing a tight screw it starts whacking it
before the rotation starts. At the worst it might not actually undo a very
tight screw but just make noise. ;-)

So you can select just the percussive action in a reverse sense on its
own without engaging the screwdriver rotation ? I've not seen it
explicitly stated on the blurb I've read so far.

No. It runs at a constant speed until a given resistance occurs then the
impact action starts and the rotation speed slows down.

Looks like a crizzy prezz if so.

Indeed. It punches far above its weight. Small enough to fit the pocket
but will do most things around the house. As well as the workbench.
The other real benefit is they are not tiring to use as you don't sort of
have to resist the torque with your wrist. So if screwing down lots of
floorboards etc far better than an ordinary cordless drill/driver.

--
*No husband has ever been shot while doing the dishes *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[N_Cook]

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:50054824a2dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <ggohcu$5dp$1@news.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
Crikey. It's an impact driver - not hammer drill. So the impact action
works with the bit stationary. Anything else would be pointless for
undoing screws.


I'll have to look into this, I had assumed that motorised impact drivers
were were rotational rather than percusive torque.

Difficult to explain - they sort of whack the thing round. When driving in
a screw obviously the rotation stops at some point otherwise it would
shear. And obviously too when removing a tight screw it starts whacking it
before the rotation starts. At the worst it might not actually undo a very
tight screw but just make noise. ;-)

So you can select just the percussive action in a reverse sense on its
own without engaging the screwdriver rotation ? I've not seen it
explicitly stated on the blurb I've read so far.

No. It runs at a constant speed until a given resistance occurs then the
impact action starts and the rotation speed slows down.

Looks like a crizzy prezz if so.

Indeed. It punches far above its weight. Small enough to fit the pocket
but will do most things around the house. As well as the workbench.
The other real benefit is they are not tiring to use as you don't sort of
have to resist the torque with your wrist. So if screwing down lots of
floorboards etc far better than an ordinary cordless drill/driver.

--
*No husband has ever been shot while doing the dishes *

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Sounds useful, but I'd still have had to make some sort of long extender /
adaptor for the current problem. But crizzy prezz likely

In reply to someone else, heating with soldering iron , was in attempt to
break down the glue or varnish or whatever was holding so firmly.

Had to revert to my previous technique of grinding 2 flats into the domed
heads and then 2 could be undone with a small 3.5mm open ender screwdriver.
This time used an 1/8 inch cylinder centride burr in a Dremmel instead of
small grind stone. The other 2 I could get to with a pipe wrench, of all
things, because of the good leverage and right angle action.

So perhaps a sight no one has seen since production of Aiwa 6900 tape decks
in 1978. Trying to sort out a brakes problem otherwise totally enclosed and
impossible to glimpse any sort of view, only rather confusing exploded views
in the manual. B = brakes, S = their activation solenoid.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/aiwa_AD6500_deck_a.jpg
the hidden jockey assembly and its activation lever train
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/aiwa_AD6500_deck_b.jpg
with secondary motor under the rubber pulley and mounting plate

So it is possible to work on the deck without half taking the m/c to bits
first. So you have to reassemble before checking it out and so often you put
something back in the wrong position. But you do have to wrestle with those
glued screws. As one of them has nearly straight action with long handle
screwdriver but would not undo, then still a problem with the deck removed
and a straight attack to all 4 screws to get apart.

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <ggoodt$usr$2@news.motzarella.org>,
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

Sounds useful, but I'd still have had to make some sort of long extender
/ adaptor for the current problem. But crizzy prezz likely

It takes standard hex bits so any hex extender will work. It comes with a
couple, IIRC.

However, the handle snaps between pistol and inline. In the inline
position it's very little larger than a screwdriver handle.

--
*The man who fell into an upholstery machine is fully recovered*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[Eeyore]

N_Cook wrote:

Philips heads

Are you sure they're not POZI ?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pozidrive

A Philips driver WILL wreck them. Read the article. Very little is Philips these
days.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

N_Cook wrote:

Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but obsolete
these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

You'll probably only see Philips heads on US manufactured kit. Along with
inches, feet, pounds, ounces, degrees Fahrenheit at al.

Graham

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <49311838.CBD673DB@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

I'm pretty certain Mr Cook knows there is more than one type...

--
*Beware - animal lover - brakes for pussy*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

 

[N_Cook]

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote in message
news:5005c74051dave@davenoise.co.uk...

In article <49311838.CBD673DB@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

I'm pretty certain Mr Cook knows there is more than one type...

--
*Beware - animal lover - brakes for pussy*

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Come to replace them and they are not in fact 3mm , bit larger than 2.5mm ,
they would seem to be 3 UNF threads on 1978 Japanese Aiwa AD9700. Well 3 UNF
threaded screws have gone back in there comfortably and securely, manual
just specifies some company stock number. Whatever they were , for the size
of crosshead (saves argument), they were well glued in .

--
Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list on
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/

 

[Ron Johnson]

Eeyore wrote:

N_Cook wrote:

Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but obsolete
these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

You'll probably only see Philips heads on US manufactured kit. Along with
inches, feet, pounds, ounces, degrees Fahrenheit at al.

Proper measurements you mean?

<--- note


Ron(UK)

 

[Eeyore]

"Dave Plowman (News)" wrote:

Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years, so
there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are totally
different.

Also there are LOTS of cheap Asian screwdrivers out there with a cross-head
that are to NEITHER spec and will wreck screws very easily.

Graham

 

[Eeyore]

N_Cook wrote:

Dave Plowman (News) <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:
Philips heads

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all but
obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

I'm pretty certain Mr Cook knows there is more than one type...

Come to replace them and they are not in fact 3mm , bit larger than 2.5mm ,
they would seem to be 3 UNF threads on 1978 Japanese Aiwa AD9700. Well 3 UNF
threaded screws have gone back in there comfortably and securely, manual
just specifies some company stock number. Whatever they were , for the size
of crosshead (saves argument), they were well glued in .

On equipment of that era it was common to indicate metric thread screws with an
embossed dimple on the head.

Graham

 

[Dave Plowman (News)]

In article <49315001.8E6E24CD@hotmail.com>,
Eeyore <rabbitsfriendsandrelations@hotmail.com> wrote:

I am STUNNED that no-one except me knows that Philips heads are all
but obsolete these days.

You MUST use the correct driver.

Plenty still use the term for any cross head screw.

Which is 100% WRONG. Pozidrives have been available for about 40 years,
so there's hardly any excuse not to use the correct term. They are
totally different.

Nor is pozidriv the only alternative design. I'm constantly coming across
crosshead screws where a genuine pozidriv screwdriver of the correct size
doesn't fit.

But think Hoover - it's a very long time since they were the brand leader
but the use of their name as a generic continues.

--
*Isn't it a bit unnerving that doctors call what they do "practice?"

Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.