Solid State Relays and EMI

[Michael A. Covington]

"Watson A.Name - "Watt Sun, the Dark Remover"" <NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote
in message news:10ii8r4bpdra863@corp.supernews.com...

I'm only trying to get an answer to the Qs I asked. You claim it adds
more work and makes things unreliable, but I'm wondering why does it
[autosniping]
lower reliability.

Because there's no assurance that you can actually get a message from a
third-party server to Ebay during the last second. Net propagation delays
are unpredictable to a degree that affects not just autosniping, but also
manual sniping. You can easily hit a 5-second delay at any unpredictable
time.

Hence my suggestion that eBay itself should achieve the effect of sniping,
without half the trouble, by simply letting people accept sealed bids.

I'm saying that I haven't found sniping to be a problem, and I don't
think I would be willing to switch to get rid of it. Another followup
said that extending the bidding end would add other problems such as
shill bidding. But it looks to me like extending would give an
advantage to the seller, not help the buyers. But I'm not a seller.

Economics is complicated! My point was simply that *whatever* sniping
accomplishes (if anything!), there's a simpler and more efficient way to
achieve it. And some people find sniping annoying, so there should be an
auction format in which it isn't possible.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 22 Aug 2004 17:43:38 -0700, podmo3@aol.com (Andy Podmore) wrote:

|Hi all
|
|I'm looking for a GSIB660 Bridge Rectifier for my Samsung TV.
|
|Its a 600V 6A bridge. The only place I can find that sells it in the
|UK is Farnell Electronics, but they have a Ł20 minimum order and only
|except credit cards, not debit cards.
|
|Can anybody help me? PLEASE
|
|Andy
|
|PS Its a Single in Line package, not the Square type in case you were
|wondering.

It would help even more if you gave us a link to the data for your
device. oh well...
http://www.vishay.com/docs/88648/gsib620.pdf
There are literally 10's of devices to use as alternatives to the
GSIB660, and you can buy them one off from other places than Farnell.
The only caution is that you will have to check that the pin-out
orientation and spacing is compatible with the original device or
select one with round wire leads which can be formed to fit in the pcb
mounting holes.

Here's one solution from RS Components. Stock no. 226-5625 for about
EU4.00.

This is a General Semiconductor (now Vishay) KBU6K 800V, 6A device
http://www.vishay.com/docs/88657/kbu6.pdf which has round wire leads
which you can shape to suit your pcb hole spacing. Note that RS don't
carry the 600V version but that won't affect the operation.

If you do a bit more digging on the web you might even find a device
with identical physical and electrical characteristics to the GSIB660
but you might waste an awful lot of time because nobody will carry it.
However, if you can get to RS Components your problem is solved.

For future reference try using your web search engine before dropping
your bundle and yelling for help, that way you might learn something
about researching information. Here's a clue... type "bridge
rectifier" site:.uk - (that's site colon period uk following the
bridge rectifier) and also include the double quotes as shown.
Surprise, surprise the very first result leads to Rapid Electronics
where the page shows 4A/8A in line bridge rectifiers Click on this
link and you'll see a listing of stocked items. You won't see a 600V
6A device but you will see a 800V 8A device which will fill the bill
nicely, and all for only UKP1.35.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Don James" <stop_spaam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1dcff9aa.0408221754.63564800@posting.google.com...

"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\""
NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in message

news:<10ihsvejefoth01@corp.supernews.com>...

"Don James" <stop_spaam@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1dcff9aa.0408190746.2dc4a1be@posting.google.com...

[snip]

4) I'm less likely to get "auction fever" and bid more than I can
afford; I get one shot, and have to decide how much an item is
really
worth to me.

That's not true. You can still change your bid up to the last
moment.

I'm a sniper; I make my first and only bid at the "last moment". By
bidding late enough to prevent others from reacting to my bid, I also
give up the opportunity to change my bid because time will have run
out. My max has to be my real max.

I don't use sniping software, but if it didn't allow me to change my
mind up until it submits the bid, i would delete it from my PC. Or else
never install it to begin with.

Say you set your sniping prog to bid $10 and by the time the sniping
prog gets to bidding, the item is already $11. Then what does it do?
It can't bid because Ebay will just tell it that the bid has to be
higher than $11.


[snip]

 

[Rene Tschaggelar]

Crossposted to far too many groups. Replied to s.e.d and s.e.c only.

Try the CY7C65100 (Cypress), a quadport hub. The AT43301 (Atmel) has a
minimum purchase of 100 or 500 pieces, at least the last time I asked.
There are no dumb hubs.

Rene
--
Ing.Buero R.Tschaggelar - http://www.ibrtses.com
& commercial newsgroups - http://www.talkto.net

James wrote:

I am trying to find a schematic for a very basic 2 port usb hub to extend on
port into two for a small project i'm working on. I would just go and buy
one but I want to integrate it into another board I have designed - can
anyone help?

I was thinking of something like a ATMEL AT43301 - any thoughts?

It doesn't have to be fancy and can be a 'dumb' port.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Don" <spaam_this@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:47938904.0408240712.5affd1be@posting.google.com...

"Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\""
NOSPAM@dslextreme.com> wrote in message

news:<10im7dil6d1fp6f@corp.supernews.com>...

I don't use sniping software, but if it didn't allow me to change my
mind up until it submits the bid, i would delete it from my PC. Or
else
never install it to begin with.

I don't know of any sniping software or service that doesn't let you
change or cancel your bid. If I used one that didn't (why would I?),
and I changed my mind, I'd just log on to eBay and change my password,
which would cause the snipe to fail. What's your point?

One "advantage" of sniping that was given (and which was apparently
deleted from here) said that sniping only allows you a single chance to
bid and/or you can't change your mind. According to you, the sniping
software allows you to change your mind or cancel before the bidding is
over. My point was that I thought the advantage claim was untrue.

Say you set your sniping prog to bid $10 and by the time the sniping
prog gets to bidding, the item is already $11. Then what does it
do?
It can't bid because Ebay will just tell it that the bid has to be
higher than $11.

If I set my snipe to $10, then that's the most I'm willing to spend,
remember? If the bid gets to $11 before my snipe, then someone else
was willing to spend more, and I don't care that my bid won't be
accepted. If this happens to you, and your nose gets bent out of
shape, you can always snipe manually for $12. You have heard of manual
sniping, right?

Yes, I've waited until the last few seconds to submit a bid. I'd like
to know if the autosniping software accurately mimics the decisions that
one does when manual sniping. Like does it give the user the choice of
how long before the final bid time is to submit. Does it
"reload/refresh" the web page at frequent intervals to check the
progress of bidding. What happens during the final moments, when it
encounters the predicament of other competing snipers. Are there
advantages or disadvantages to using one sniping prog over another.

Do you have a point or are you just trolling?

No, I'm not trolling. Do you have a problem with people who've never
done autosniping and who're looking for an an answer asking questions?

 

[Dave Platt]

In article <10ip2ujrj2s7076@corp.supernews.com>,
Watson A.Name - \"Watt Sun, the Dark Remover\" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:

Yes, I've waited until the last few seconds to submit a bid. I'd like
to know if the autosniping software accurately mimics the decisions that
one does when manual sniping. Like does it give the user the choice of
how long before the final bid time is to submit. Does it
"reload/refresh" the web page at frequent intervals to check the
progress of bidding. What happens during the final moments, when it
encounters the predicament of other competing snipers. Are there
advantages or disadvantages to using one sniping prog over another.

All of the above depends very much on the software you use.

The one I use (the open-sourced "bidwatcher") allows you to select the
amount of time prior to end-of-auction at which it will place your bid
(although there's only one setting - you can't adjust it on a
per-auction basis). It checks your bid when you create the snipe, and
re-queries eBay periodically to check the progress of the auction and
keep the display up to date. The display is color-coded to indicate
whether your snipe has already been beaten out by another bid. The
re-check interval starts out at a long value (several hours per check)
and decreases as the end-of-auction time arrives - it gives you some
amount of control over the frequency of checking.

It has no particular "in the final moments" assist... it places the
bid when you told it to, shows you the status, and (eventually) shows
the final result of the auction. If your snipe is outbid in the last
couple of seconds, too bad. If your bid isn't ever placed because you
set the pre-closure time limit too low, and there was network or
server congestion, too bad.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Cliff Wright]

G'day.
OK so I gather you want to change the clock frequency in some digital device or other.
Xtal is simply shorthand for quartz crystal (it dates back to old morse shorthand)
What you need to know is the frequency in MHz or KHz that the crystal is reasonant at.
This is ususally clearly (if rather small) marked on its can.
Often it is given with a decimal point eg 4.000 MHz and sometimes the MHz units are left off.
Note that depending on the type of device it is clocking the type of crystal can be critical.
This mainly applies in communication equipment however especially SSB.
Regards Cliff Wright ZL1BDA.


Tek wrote:

I want to change the clock value in a device.
I know the unit can handle it but I wanted to ask if anyone know if there
will be an issue.
The current clock generator is an Xtal... I cannot find the correct
frequency XTAL but crystals are easy to get.

thanks for any advice!

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 24 Aug 2004 16:47:47 -0700, drk421@gmail.com (drk421) put finger to
keyboard and composed:

I'm looking for a Sharp LH2833-15 IC and/or data sheet. I had one of
these go bad, and I need a replacement. I've tried many of the online
"old" IC sellers, but they want a minimum order of $500-$1000.

If anyone has a data sheet or any information on the pinout I could
substitute another IC. I believe its a DRAM as I've found some info
here:

http://nesdev.parodius.com/FDS%20technical%20reference.txt

It shows some of the pinouts, but I don't know any of the address
lines or CAS/RAS.

The short story: I suspect the LH2833 is an 8Kx8 EEPROM.

Now for the long story.

The above URL has the following pinout diagram. It is the result of
some reverse engineering by the author who is not certain as to what
the part actually is.
___ ___
|* \/ |
PHI2 >01] [28< VCC
(60) [02] [27< A13
(15) [03] [26< A14
(12) [04] [25< /PRG
(13) [05] [24] (11)
(14) [06] [23] (10)
A7 >07] [22] (09)
(58) [08] LH2833 [21< R/W
(59) [09] [20< VEE
-- [10] [19] D4
D5 [11] [18] D3
D6 [12] [17] D2
D7 [13] [16] D1
VEE >14] [15] D0
|________|

The author believes that the LH2833 is a 32Kbit DRAM. However, this
would make it a 4K x 8 part, which means that it would have 12 address
bits, which implies only 6 muxed address lines. AFAICS, this chip has
much too many pins for it to be a DRAM. I doubt that it is an SRAM
either because the LH28 part number prefix is used by Sharp's LH28F
EEPROMs. So maybe it is really an EEPROM, or perhaps a PROM or OTP
EPROM.

During the early '80s, Intel, AMD, Xicor and others produced the 2817A
and 2864B which were 2Kx8 and 8Kx8 EEPROMs, respectively. Intel's
pinouts are slightly different to the LH2833, although both chips come
in 28-pin DIPs.

This is the pinout for the 2864B:
___ ___
|* \/ |
RDY/BUSY* [01] [28] VCC
A12 [02] [27] WE*
A7 [03] [26] NC
A6 [04] [25] A8
A5 [05] [24] A9
A4 [06] [23] A11
A3 [07] [22] OE*
A2 [08] 2864B [21] A10
A1 [09] [20] CE*
A0 [10] [19] I/O7
I/O0 [11] [18] I/O6
I/O1 [12] [17] I/O5
I/O2 [13] [16] I/O4
GND [14] [15] I/O3
|________|

Pin 20 of the LH2833 is possibly an OE* or CE* (output/chip enable).
The data pins (D0-7, I/O0-7) appear to match up with Intel's, although
not necessarily in the same order. Intel's RDY/BUSY* pin goes low to
inform the host CPU when a write operation is in progress, and returns
to the high state when writing is completed. The CPU's RD* and WR*
pins would probably connect to OE* and WE*. The author states that
"the DRAM (sic) is mapped in at $6000..$DFFF". This would suggest that
address bits A14 and A13 would be set to 1, and A15 would be 0. This
appears to be supported by the author's statement that "/PRG is the
NES/FC's A15 line NAND gated with the PHI2 line". This would suggest
that these three pins may be involved in some kind of chip select
function.

The RAM adaptor described in the above URL consists of three main
chips, a 2C33 mask ROMmed (?) uP, an 8Kbit RAM, and the LH2833.
This layout alone suggests to me that the LH2833 is some kind of ROM
device.


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Michael A. Covington]

Quite a few power transistors will work. The main things to note are:

(1) The transistor must be *really* well "turned on" in order to have a low
resistance.

(2) The transistor shouldn't dissipate anywhere near 43 watts. That is, the
transistor wattage has nothing to do with the wattage of your taillights.

(3) Have you considered using relays?

Getting back to transistors, this is not the cheapest solution, but I'd
consider N-channel switching MOSFETS that (a) saturate fully with a
logic-level input (e.g., IRL series, not IRF series), and (b) have an "on"
resistance that is quite low, like 0.2 ohms or less.

I don't have a data sheet in front of me and am about to have to go... If
others don't chime in, let me know.

 

[Dave Platt]

I'm making a device to make my tail lights flash in entertaining
patterns. It's overkill, but I'm using a PIC microcontroller (a
16f676) to handle the flashing patterns. I've got the device working
just fine with LEDs, but actual 1157 taillight bulbs pull way more
current, which I'm pretty sure will be too darned much for this little
micro to handle. My plan is to replace the LEDs with a transistor to
control each bulb individually. The bright side of an 1157 is usually
around 25-30 watts, so at 12 volts that gives me a worst case of about
2.5 amps. How about allowing for 3 amps at 14.4 volts - 43 watts.
What would be a good transistor to use for this? I can switch either
the positive or negative side, it doesn't really make any difference,
though switching the positive side would likely be a bit more
convenient (more wire to work with).

For a high-side switch, you'd want a PNP power transistor, or a PNP
Darlington. [Darlingtons are actually two transistors, connected
together, in a single case. You turn on the first, and the first
turns on the second. A Darlington pair has a much higher current gain
than a single power transistor, and is thus easier to drive.]

You want a part with at *least* a 50-volt limit for auto applications,
due to voltage spikes caused by a phenomenon called "load dump". The
TIP125 and TIP127 Darlingtons have 80-volt limits, and will handle a
maximum collector current of 5 amperes. The NTE262 is an acceptable
substitute for both of these parts.

You should be able to drive the base of one of these from a PIC's
LED-capable output pin, through a current-limiting resistor. Figuring
maybe 15 volts (to be generous) at the transistor, you'd want a
resistor of about 750 ohms between the PIC pin and the base. This
will draw 20 mA out of the base when you turn on the PIC's output
driver (set the pin value to 0 and set the tristate to "drive it,
please"), and should turn on the Darlington quite hard... enough that
its voltage drop will be very low, and it won't dissipate a
significant amount of power in the transformer. I'd guess you won't
even need a heatsink. To turn off the transistor and the light,
just disable the PIC's tristate driver for that pin.

Oh... make sure that you're using one of the PICs which doesn't
mind having its pin "pulled up" to a high voltage when it's
tristated off. Most of the newer ones will tolerate this, I
believe. If you're using one which will malfunction or fry
if the pin is pulled high, then you'll need to drive the
transistor indirectly. Use the PIC to drive the LED in an
optoisolator (ideally one with a 100% or greater current
transfer ratio), and connect the optoisolator's output
between ground and the current-limiting resistor.

www.mouser.com is one source, and I'm sure www.digikey.com also
carries them. Also check the various surplus-electronics outfits on
the Web - www.goldmine-elec.com has TIP127s. Any well-stocked
electronics outfit can probably sell you the NTE262 - the price will
be a good deal higher than for the TIP equivalent but if it's
available locally to you there won't be a shipping charge.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Hosting the Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On Fri, 27 Aug 2004 07:19:21 +1000, Franc Zabkar
<fzabkar@optussnet.com.au> put finger to keyboard and composed:

The short story: I suspect the LH2833 is an 8Kx8 EEPROM.

Sorry, that should be "4Kx8".


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Ross Herbert]

On 27 Aug 2004 20:32:57 -0700, zahrein@yahoo.com (Zahrein) wrote:

|Does anyone know the temperature coefficients of the following
|integrated components?
|
|diode (Voltage/Temperature)
|base diffused resistor (Resistance/Temperature)
|transistor hfe (gain/Temperature)

Sounds like a homeworkor exam problem you want answered.

Try using your search engine.

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

On 28 Aug 2004 07:32:19 -0700, the renowned spid2408@yahoo.com
(tech274) wrote:

I have a driver board out of a console of a Toshiba IES610 molding
machine.
I am trying without success to identify 2 components.
A diode that is marked 30 4.1 T and a transistor in a TO-220 package
simply marked d799. The board number is H01204-2

Any help would be appreciated.

The D799 is a 2SD799, an NPN darlington 600V 6A.

Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

 

[SB]

Hospitals don't put anything in you unless you give consent (or it's life or
death and you haven't sign the DNR -- Do Not Resuscitate).
As far as life or death goes...about the only thing they might implant is a
pacemaker. But it'd only be temporary until you were well enough to receive
the permanent one (at which point you'd sign).

A doctor putting anything else in you otherwise without your consent is
malpractice (as if he forgot his Rolex in your stomach cavity).



"Bill" <bfdiii@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:56b3ad00.0408262206.52b0b435@posting.google.com...

All I ask is why take the risk? Where is the benefit when the risks
are quite unknown. Microchips are being pushed on the public sector
quite quickly. FDA approval of microchips? You have to be insane.
Does this mean that hospitals will be allowed to insert microchips in
people without their knowing? I think it does. Similar to a doctor
stating a specific drug is the most useful.

I only ask why? Beyond the government, how is it beneficial to the
individual? During a time when the government is more than supporting
illegal aliens - why would this be promoted? Just how is it useful?

Should the microchip promote nerve growth leading to the attachment of
nerve cells to the chip itself, what is the risk? You got me, but I
will tell you one thing -- it no longer is that pin stuck in your body
to hold your hip bone in place. Let's get that clear right now -
right up front.

================================================================

US hospitals move closer to under the skin ID chips
http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/medicalnews.php?newsid=11859

VeriChip, the company that makes radio frequency
identification--RFID--tags for humans, has moved one step closer to
getting its technology into hospitals.

-----------------------------------------

Side effect supposedly unknown by FDA - that human nerve growth seeks
the electrical current.

Sci/Tech

Communicating with 'thought power'
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/sci/tech/193946.stm

States quite simply that nerve cells grow towards the encouraged nerve
growth. It takes approximately 18 months for this to occur.

"The cones are laced with neurotrophic chemicals extracted from the
patient's own knees which encourage nerve growth."

=================================

So, what is another method of encouraging nerve growth? That is
right, electrical current. All over the place ... do a search on
google "nerve growth stimulation electricity"

Damaged Nerves Heal Faster With Electricity
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2000/04/000410091145.htm

.
.
.


http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/entrez/query.fcgi?cmd=Text&db=PubMed&uid=7623154&dopt=Abstract
Repeated subconvulsive electrical stimulation of certain areas of the
forebrain
leads to kindling, a progressive and permanent amplification of evoked
epileptiform activity, which is a model for human temporal lobe
epilepsy.

New Plastic Heals Damaged Nerves
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2000/04/000410084857.htm
"Polymers that can conduct electricity have a beneficial effect on the
nerves," explained Schmidt.

.
.
.

http://www.cureparalysis.org/mission/growth/
"The NINDS Neural Prosthesis Program supports and encourages research
on the development of implantable devices to compensate electronically
for lost sensory and motor functions."

http://www.etgtreatment.com/etg/electro.html
Electro-stimulation developments have led to multi-billion dollar
markets
During the 1940's and 50's research began to show the way in which
electricity affects the heart and it's rhythms. By the 1960's,
physicians were beginning to routinely use special forms of electrical
stimulation, internally and externally, to regulate heartbeats in
patients whose own electrical signals were failing or compromised, and
to "restart" the hearts of patients that may have stopped beating
entirely. Since that time a huge multi-billion dollar market in
cardiac technology has arisen from the advancement of these
treatments.

 

[Michael A. Covington]

FDA approval of microchips? You have to be insane.
Does this mean that hospitals will be allowed to insert microchips in
people without their knowing? I think it does. Similar to a doctor
stating a specific drug is the most useful.

FDA-approved or not, hospitals are not allowed to give medical treatments
without the patient's consent, except in certain bona fide emergencies and
certain cases where permission is given by proxy or by court.

 

[Dave Garnett]

Some of the newer Atmel AVR's go down to 1.8v. They are much nicer than PICs
to use, as well ...

Dave

"Tim Shoppa" <shoppa@trailing-edge.com> wrote in message
news:bec993c8.0408290629.44b0f5fd@posting.google.com...

In the perfect world there would be a flash-based microcontroller,
serially programmable, that could run off a single cell (meaning 0.9V -
1.8V or so).

PIC16LF62x's go down to 2.0V (with some reasonable temperature
limitations)
and are very hobbyist-accessible. (OK, there are some minor points
about verifying the flash at low voltage but those aren't biggies).
2.0V is OK for two-cell operation, but I want better.

The Fairchild ACE 1502 is good down to 1.8V, is serial EEPROM
programmable,
etc. Not nearly so much stuff floating around the 'net about using them.
And they are still two-cell operation.

The Winbond W541L200 looks good down to 1.2V, which is good enough for
single-cell use (if still not ideal in terms of using the full discharge
curve). But it's mask-ROM programmable only and a complete non-starter
in terms of hobbyist tinkering.

Is there anything obvious that I've missed out on?

I may end up learning about single-cell-input voltage boosters instead of
searching for more low voltage microcontrollers. The TI TPS61001 series
looks good at a first glance, any alternatives?

Tim.

Posted Via Nuthinbutnews.Com Premium Usenet Newsgroup Services
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[Roy Smith]

maxfoo <maxfoo@punkassSPAM.com> wrote:

the atmel reps said that the avr arch is optimized for C a

Ah, so it's a pdp-11 clone?

 

[Roger Gt]

"Roy Smith" <roy@panix.com> wrote in message
news:roy-1C4475.15480029082004@reader1.panix.com...
: maxfoo <maxfoo@punkassSPAM.com> wrote:
: > the atmel reps said that the avr arch is optimized for C a
:
: Ah, so it's a pdp-11 clone?

I've written code in Assembly and forth for both!
The Rep is full of it!

By the way, Forth was written for the PDP11.
It's been ported to many other machines.

Assembly is the native code for any machine.
You write the boot and many other hardware interfaces in assembly
if your C compiler is not up to the task.

 

[James T. White]

Even though I didn't allow it to install datasheet.exe on my machine, I was
still able to open the pdf datasheets for a couple of parts I tried. It is a
bit annoying to have to have to keep saying no to installing the .exe, but not
$100 worth!

--
James T. White

"Mark (UK)" <jumbos.bazzar@btopenworld.com> wrote in message
news:cgth1u$2o7$1@sparta.btinternet.com...

Hi!

Id' be weary, as it tried to install something on my machine when I go
to a datasheet page - this was in the page code:

 

[Mark (UK)]

Hi!

Id' be weary, as it tried to install something on my machine when I go
to a datasheet page - this was in the page code:

<OBJECT ID="Control1"
classid="clsid:3B2E9991-0C57-426F-A5E4-784C7A5C6420"
codebase="http://alldatasheet.com/Datasheet.cab#version=1,0,0,0"
width="0" height="0">
</OBJECT>

Maybe harmless, anyone fancy to install it and check it out? My Virus
checker says it's all clear, but you never know.....

Yours, Mark.


Jay wrote:

Has anyone noticed that all of the component datasheets that are at
chipdocs.com ($100 per year subscription) are available from
alldatasheet.com for free. The databases seem to be exactly the same
and the datasheets even have the same directoy structure.

I'll be asking for my money back.....what a rippoff! Would suggest
using alldatasheet.com from now on.