Solid State Relays and EMI

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Jay" <chrisjaywray@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2fd3a9d5.0408291154.9a48de0@posting.google.com...

Has anyone noticed that all of the component datasheets that are at
chipdocs.com ($100 per year subscription) are available from
alldatasheet.com for free. The databases seem to be exactly the same
and the datasheets even have the same directoy structure.

I'll be asking for my money back.....what a rippoff! Would suggest
using alldatasheet.com from now on.

Another is datasheetarchive.com.
Or else just go to the manufacturer's website.

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Jay" <chrisjaywray@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2fd3a9d5.0408300302.769794d8@posting.google.com...

Chaos Master <fallenchaos@mailinator.com> wrote in message
news:<MPG.1b9c856ab895395e9897a0@news.individual.net>...
Mark (UK) puts out:
Hi!

Id' be weary, as it tried to install something on my machine when
I go
to a datasheet page - this was in the page code:

Doesn't seem to try to install anything here.
Internet Explorer 6.0 with latest security updates, Windows 98 SE.

[]s


I think thats a java app that tries to automatically install a
shortcut to their website. Also, I asked chipdocs if they were doing
the dirty on their customers. This was their reply....

"Our web-site is much more bigger than alldatasheet.com
We have got a lot of rare datasheets, which are not places
on any other site. We renew our database every day and
the subscription fee - I must say- is rather low.

Yours faithfully
Art Astashkin"

I find $95 dollars a bit steep for something that is free on another
site.

Sometimes I think that these parasites operate on the same principle
that spammer use. There are millions of users out there and there is
always a percentage, however small, that will be suckered into paying
for your commodity. Even tho they get it for free somewhere else.

Look at one of the first spammers, Canter and Siegel. They offered for
$50 what the gov't offered for free.

 

[Jeff Walther]

In article <10jdo4otbl0h2e0@corp.supernews.com>, "Watson A.Name - \"Watt
Sun, the Dark Remover\"" <alondra101@hotmail.com> wrote:

"Jay" <chrisjaywray@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:2fd3a9d5.0408300302.769794d8@posting.google.com...
Chaos Master <fallenchaos@mailinator.com> wrote in message
news:<MPG.1b9c856ab895395e9897a0@news.individual.net>...
Mark (UK) puts out:
Hi!

Id' be weary, as it tried to install something on my machine when
I go
to a datasheet page - this was in the page code:

Doesn't seem to try to install anything here.
Internet Explorer 6.0 with latest security updates, Windows 98 SE.

[]s


I think thats a java app that tries to automatically install a
shortcut to their website. Also, I asked chipdocs if they were doing
the dirty on their customers. This was their reply....

"Our web-site is much more bigger than alldatasheet.com
We have got a lot of rare datasheets, which are not places
on any other site. We renew our database every day and
the subscription fee - I must say- is rather low.

Yours faithfully
Art Astashkin"

I find $95 dollars a bit steep for something that is free on another
site.

Sometimes I think that these parasites operate on the same principle
that spammer use. There are millions of users out there and there is
always a percentage, however small, that will be suckered into paying
for your commodity. Even tho they get it for free somewhere else.

Look at one of the first spammers, Canter and Siegel. They offered for
$50 what the gov't offered for free.

CAPS available through <http://www.freetradezone.com> for a substantial
fee really does seem to have a collection of rare datasheets that are not
available anywhere else (except in old hardcopy databooks). And they
appear to have the datasheet for the AM79C950 which I haven't seen
anywhere else. They were free, but they went to charging for access
before I downloaded it.

If there is a free service as extensive as CAPS or a way of accessing CAPS
without paying a fee, I'd really like to know about it.

--
A friend will help you move. A real friend will help you move a body.

 

[Graham W]

J?rg Roth wrote:

I'm looking for a datasheet of an ic from NEC.
It's a 12-bit a/d-converter uPD7002C.
I need the datasheet very urgent. I searched
with google but I couldn't any.

That was the a/d chip used in the BBC Microcomputer, if it helps you.

It also appears on page 295 of the NEC Microcomputers, Inc
'1980 Catalog' which I have. What info do you need?

--
Graham W http://www.gcw.org.uk/ PGM-FI page updated, Graphics Tutorial
WIMBORNE http://www.wessex-astro-society.freeserve.co.uk/ Wessex
Dorset UK Astro Society's Web pages, Info, Meeting Dates, Sites & Maps
Change 'news' to 'sewn' in my Reply address to avoid my spam filter.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 3 Sep 2004 03:20:26 -0700, joerg.roth@schaller.de (J?rg Roth) put
finger to keyboard and composed:

I'm looking for a datasheet of an ic from NEC.
It's a 12-bit a/d-converter uPD7002C.

http://elektrotechnik.fh-gelsenkirchen.de/ie_lab/Labor/Datenblaetter/analog/upd7002.pdf


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Franc Zabkar]

On 3 Sep 2004 09:15:46 -0700, alik@intergate.bc.ca (Alik S.) put
finger to keyboard and composed:

Wuld anyone have datasheets for MPQ6000 quad transistor

Is that the correct number?

and/or how
compatible is it with MPQ6700 and TPQ 6002.

Here are basic data on these parts from my Motorola selection guide
and Sprague data book.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/~fzabkar/mpq_case.jpg
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~fzabkar/mpq_data.jpg
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~fzabkar/tpq_pins.gif
http://members.optusnet.com.au/~fzabkar/tpq_data.gif


- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 's' from my address when replying by email.

 

[Grant Kiehne]

Re-post to add to sci.electronics.components.

"Grant Kiehne" <grant_kiehne@hotmail.com> wrote in message news:...

Beryllium oxide (BeO) ceramic is used as an insulating substrate for
high-power electronics. The ceramic powder is toxic if inhaled. Is the
material being excluded from use in this application by any green
(environmentally-friendly) procurement initiatives? Are there any
requirements to reclaim it or safely dispose of it?

 

[Tim Wescott]

nikhil wrote:

I have landed up with a Ceramic Leadless Chip Carrier IC. I am
clueless about how to go about integrating it into my design? Can
anybody help or point out any sites ?

Do you mean one of the new, tiny CLCC chips, or a plain old CLCC? AFAIK
they all reflow like anything else, you can hand-solder the old ones
with a steady hand and patience, but the new ones (with the big thermal
pad underneath) need to be reflowed.

--

Tim Wescott
Wescott Design Services
http://www.wescottdesign.com

 

[Spehro Pefhany]

On 5 Sep 2004 11:04:30 -0700, the renowned larwe@larwe.com (Lewin
A.R.W. Edwards) wrote:

The other day at work, I found a very odd electronic component in the
parking lot (to be exact, it stuck in the treads of one of my tires).
At least, I think it's a component, or perhaps a partially-completed
component... It consists of a complicated copper sprue ~2.25" x 7"
divided into a matrix of 3 x 12 identical subcomponents. The center of
each of these subcomponents is a blob of black epoxy. The reason I
think that these things are separate subcomponents is because each of
these black blobs has a unique mold position code molded into one side
of it (e.g. "M8", "M9", "N1" etc). Here are hires scans of the
assembly, both sides:

http://www.larwe.com/comp-1.jpg
http://www.larwe.com/comp-2.jpg

The second link above shows the side with the mold-number markings in
it.

After scanning the above pictures, I cracked open one of the plastic
blobs and I find that there are three separate metal tongues
protruding inside it, leading me to believe it's likely a transistor
of some sort. I think the external copper piece was meant to be
machine-separated in some way, that it ties the parts all together for
ESD hardening reasons during manufacture.

If there was a semiconductor in there, my crude breaking didn't reveal
it.

Any conjectures as to what these parts might be?

Maybe an RF power transistor. The use of a leadframe, that the
finished parts are later removed from by a die, is unremarkable, but I
don't recognize the package type offhand.

Eg. http://wwww.ges.cz/sheet/2/2sc1966.pdf


Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

 

[Rich Webb]

On 5 Sep 2004 11:04:30 -0700, larwe@larwe.com (Lewin A.R.W. Edwards)
wrote:

The other day at work, I found a very odd electronic component in the
parking lot (to be exact, it stuck in the treads of one of my tires).
At least, I think it's a component, or perhaps a partially-completed
component... It consists of a complicated copper sprue ~2.25" x 7"
divided into a matrix of 3 x 12 identical subcomponents. The center of
each of these subcomponents is a blob of black epoxy. The reason I
think that these things are separate subcomponents is because each of
these black blobs has a unique mold position code molded into one side
of it (e.g. "M8", "M9", "N1" etc). Here are hires scans of the
assembly, both sides:

http://www.larwe.com/comp-1.jpg
http://www.larwe.com/comp-2.jpg

The second link above shows the side with the mold-number markings in
it.

After scanning the above pictures, I cracked open one of the plastic
blobs and I find that there are three separate metal tongues
protruding inside it, leading me to believe it's likely a transistor
of some sort. I think the external copper piece was meant to be
machine-separated in some way, that it ties the parts all together for
ESD hardening reasons during manufacture.

If there was a semiconductor in there, my crude breaking didn't reveal
it.

Any conjectures as to what these parts might be?

Just a swag but considering the relative population sizes of fancy RF
gear and cheap electronics I'd guess that what you have is part of a
keypad assembly for some consumer electronics remote control unit.

The background (scanner cover?) is almost the same color/texture as the
epoxy so it's a bit hard to make out which parts of the inner cutouts
are filled and which are background.

But the formfactor looks about right for a handheld gadget.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

 

[Lewin A.R.W. Edwards]

http://www.larwe.com/comp-1.jpg
http://www.larwe.com/comp-2.jpg

Maybe an RF power transistor. The use of a leadframe, that the
finished parts are later removed from by a die, is unremarkable, but I

That's very plausible, given that I work in the Short Range Radio group,
and the parking lot I use is in between the Short Range Radio and Long
Range Radio buildings. I'm thinking a vendor probably dropped it, or
maybe one of the guys coming over from the CAD building where all our
specification sheets are stored.

Maybe it is a mechanical dummy used to test assembly equipment, or
something of the kind (hence the total lack of part# markings).

 

[Trevor Barton]

On 5 Sep 2004 11:04:30 -0700, Lewin A.R.W. Edwards wrote:

Any conjectures as to what these parts might be?

Oh my, that's the latest super-secret doobry that your employer has
spent $100M developing for DOD over the last few years. Don't
know what's going to happen to the incompetent who dropped it, but I've
a fair idea what they're going to do to the person that published
hi-res jpegs of it on the internet!

--
Trevor Barton

 

[petrus bitbyter]

"Oliver Schmid" <o.sch@gmx.at> schreef in bericht
news:4d970b56.0409080302.6fd450a4@posting.google.com...

hi group,

As mentioned I'm looking for a simple "8042-like" keyboard controller
to
get standard keyboard support into a 8-bit MCU environment.

I don't care if other functions (aka super I/O) are integrated, it
should
just be very simple to integrate and _currently_ available somewhere
in europe.

I've been looking for the last week, but I haven't found a thing.

I'd be thankful for any further hints.

Another idea would be using a UART 16550 to handle this, but i'm not
quite sure, if this would work proberly - any ideas?

regs,
oliver


btw, I'm aware of the keyboard-protocol,but I don't want to put
additional load
onto the MCU, so I'd like to "outsource" the keyboard-handling to an
external
unit - get a interrupt when a character is ready at the buffered
keyboard
controller.

Guess it will not be easy to find an original 8042. But almost any micro can
be programmed to accept AT-keyboard code. Lately found source code for a PIC
micro on the internet. It was meant to use the incoming keycodes itself but
it can't be difficult to translate them to parallel ASCII (or whatever you
need) and make it pull the interrupt of your MCU.

petrus bitbyter


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[Marc H.Popek]

"Marc H.Popek" <LVMarc@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message news:...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3838882981

"""

For auction the qwerty and dedicated controller keyboard for all Tektronix
3000 and 3100 logic and data analyzer analyzer oscilloscopes. Like new
condition. Originally an $89 retail option ( 1992 dollars). Win with Buy
now
and you get 9.99 S&H absolutely FREE>>>>>>>>> KEYBOARD ONLY FOR THIS
AUCTION!!!!!

""


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[Aleksandar Stancic]

I, along with Rich Grise, being duly deputized officers of the
Apostrophe Police, cite you for improper and excessive use of the
apostrophe. I believe you meant its brightness. ;-)

I've been running some cheap Hong Kong white LEDs at 25 and 20 mA.
After two months or about 1500 hrs at 25mA, the first two dimmed to
where they were barely visible. The second two, running at 20 mA, have
already dimmed after about the same time, but not dimmed as badly.
Since this is just an eyeball guesstimation, I can't give any accurate
measurement. But it's sufficient to say that running these LEDs at near
their rated maximum will cause them to dim much sooner than the usual
"100 thousand hours" lifetime that everyone seems to use for white LEDs.

Along with these two, I've had another pair of good quality Nichia white
LEDs, and they are still going strong. I imagine they've dimmed
somewhat, but I can't tell with my eyeballs. The same pair has been in
series with the first and second two cheapo LEDs the whole four months
or about 3000 hours. The room temp this summer has been unusually mild,
between 72 to 82 deg F.

This is a red LED at 90mcd. I'll use 20mA, or even less...

Thank's You's All's!

 

[mike]

Jadran wrote:

Hi,

my son wants to do a science project about testing heat/cold
perception using some kind of a thermal probe (I guess it would be a
peltier electrode). He found an article which describes that the
device should give a temp. range from 5 C to 50 C, should enable
steady increase/decrease of the temp. from the middle point (ca. 30 C)
and the temp. should rise 1 C/sek. I read that Peltier electrodes /or
thermodes/ could do the job but I do not know what else should I get
to assemble such a device. Could it be possible to hook it up to a
notebook computer in order to control the temp. rise/decrease?

Could anyone suggest a circuit/system which would do that (as much
details as possible would be appreciated since I am no electronics
genius).


Thanx for any help you could give me.

Jadran

Peltier devices are marketed as picnic coolers and coolers for
computer CPUs. Depending on where you live and how many you want,
you might find disassembling a picnic cooler expedient. Already has
the heat sink and fan.

Depdending on how big you want the surface and how variable the load is,
you might find the most difficult part to be the controller that gives
you the controllable linear ramp. Thermal time constants being what
they are, you might have to do some predicting and nonlinear controlling.

Thought this was you son's project???? ;-)
mike

--
Return address is VALID.
Wanted, 12.1" LCD for Gateway Solo 5300. Samsung LT121SU-121
Bunch of stuff For Sale and Wanted at the link below.
Compaq Aero floppy,ram,battery.
MINT HP-41CV, 2-METER AMPS, 200CH SCANNER
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Monitor/4710/

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Danny Sauer" <usenet@dannysauer.com> wrote in message
news:1b12c495.0409080801.4bce6179@posting.google.com...

"Michael A. Covington" <look@ai.uga.edu.for.address> wrote in message
news:<412e5744$1@mustang.speedfactory.net>...
(2) The transistor shouldn't dissipate anywhere near 43 watts. That
is, the
transistor wattage has nothing to do with the wattage of your
taillights.

Doesn't it have to pass all of the current through, though? If use
something only rated to pass a couple of amps, won't it likely burn up
if the load wants to draw more current through?

(3) Have you considered using relays?

I'd like to be able to fade the lights out, and that'll either require
the ability to rapidly switch between on and off, or some kind of
variable resistance. I suppose I could control a potentiometer with a
stepper motor, or something awful like that, but that's not a
realistic option. Even if a relay was able to keep up with the
high-speed switching, the contacts wouldn't last long in that type of
use. So I'm pretty much left with a transistor for this situation.

Didn't you read my earlier followup?
http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/Bill_Bowden/page6.htm#eyes2.gif

Thanks much for the replys, all. I've got a few ideas to play with,
and at least an idea of what I'm looking for. It's much easier to
have the list limited down to a few hundred rather than having several
thousand possible options.

--Danny

 

[Watson A.Name - \"Watt Su]

"Jadran" <njivice@gmx.de> wrote in message
news:ccad39b.0409092106.3582ee7e@posting.google.com...

Hi Mike,

thanx for the fast reply. Yup, you are right this is my son's
project.
He thought this would be a great idea (saw in TV some hot shot from
Yale talking about it).
Isn`t there a way to measure the temp. in a computer somehow (the CPU
knows how hot it is)? Could one use these circles to measure the temp
of the peltier element?

As I read more about it - it seems to me that it should be doable with
pretty simple means (cooler idea is good). But the biggest question is
how do I control the temperature. Any other ideas?

You buy a thermistor that's 100k ohms or thereabouts. If you use a more
common 10k thermistor you might get better results if you connect
several in series. Then you connect the thermistor across the pins of
the game port that go to one of the potentiometers in the joystick.
These two pots are about 100k ohms. Then all you need is some software
to read the game port. You chould be able to do it with quickbasic,
etc.

Jadran

mike <spamme0@juno.com> wrote in message
news:<4140BC22.1010607@juno.com>...
Jadran wrote:
Hi,

my son wants to do a science project about testing heat/cold
perception using some kind of a thermal probe (I guess it would be
a
peltier electrode). He found an article which describes that the
device should give a temp. range from 5 C to 50 C, should enable
steady increase/decrease of the temp. from the middle point (ca.
30 C)
and the temp. should rise 1 C/sek. I read that Peltier electrodes
/or
thermodes/ could do the job but I do not know what else should I
get
to assemble such a device. Could it be possible to hook it up to a
notebook computer in order to control the temp. rise/decrease?

Could anyone suggest a circuit/system which would do that (as much
details as possible would be appreciated since I am no electronics
genius).


Thanx for any help you could give me.

Jadran

Peltier devices are marketed as picnic coolers and coolers for
computer CPUs. Depending on where you live and how many you want,
you might find disassembling a picnic cooler expedient. Already has
the heat sink and fan.

Depdending on how big you want the surface and how variable the load
is,
you might find the most difficult part to be the controller that
gives
you the controllable linear ramp. Thermal time constants being what
they are, you might have to do some predicting and nonlinear
controlling.

Thought this was you son's project???? ;-)
mike

 

[Jeff Walther]

In article <1b12c495.0409080801.4bce6179@posting.google.com>,
usenet@dannysauer.com (Danny Sauer) wrote:

"Michael A. Covington" <look@ai.uga.edu.for.address> wrote in message
news:<412e5744$1@mustang.speedfactory.net>...

I'd like to be able to fade the lights out, and that'll either require
the ability to rapidly switch between on and off, or some kind of
variable resistance. I suppose I could control a potentiometer with a
stepper motor, or something awful like that, but that's not a
realistic option.

I haven't seen the earlier messages in this thread, so apologies if I'm
retreading old ground.

Have you considered using a digital potentiometer? Xicor makes a line of
digital pots that might work. I don't know what kind of apperage they
support, so you may have to run the output through some amplification, but
they are a more elegant way to convert a digital signal to a potentiometer
type output.

--
A friend will help you move. A real friend will help you move a body.

 

[Chaos Master]

Data received from G.K. Konnig on port COM1:

I need it for my weekly anal-inspection, because my boyfriend left me
a couple of days ago.

What do I need for a good anal-probe?

I would use high voltage.

It's perfectly to kill trolls.

[]s
--
Chaos MasterŽ, posting from Brazil. REPLY TO GROUP!
"People told me I can't dress like a fairy.
I say, I'm in a rock band and I can do what the hell I want!"
-- Amy Lee

Note: this e-mail address goes to /dev/null.