solder won't come out of hole

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:gdzNr.12270$GO2.3901@fx05.am4:

"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in message news:ju5fp8$mfc$1@dont-email.me...


Cydrome Leader wrote:
Tom Del Rosso <td_03@verizon.net.invalid> wrote:

For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but
even then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole.
The cap pulled out easily on both leads.

add fress solder and try again.

burned up and oxidized tips and traces don't conduct heat well and
won't melt solder in a thick or multilayer board. get some solder
wick, the stuff is magic for things like this.

Thanks all.

I got it by applying an iron to one side and the vacuum to the other
side. The Pace desolder station doesn't get hot enough.

I was also using lead-free when I added solder to help it melt. 60/40
worked better.

What's the word on using 60/40 on the replacement?

***Original manufacturers have made remarkable progress in applying
RoHS solder so the components don't fall off after a year or so -
unreliability can rear its ugly head if you pb free solder with the
kit on a typical repair bench.

***If you do get called to book for using 60/40 - just claim that its
old equipment, and you believed that's what it was originally made
with.

***If its for hobby purposes and not for resale, that's also exempt.
Click to expand...
if you sucked out the applied solder,there's probably little leaded solder
left to "harm" anyone. maybe not even detectable with their usual tests.

And I'm not going to tell on you. :)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
 
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:IjzNr.11534$N4.1018@fx07.am4:

"Jamie" wrote in message news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...

Tom Del Rosso wrote:

For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even
then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap
pulled out easily on both leads.


If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it
with that, then suck it out..

***Way back in the days of hybrid CTVs, I remember an old Tandberg
telly that had a "safety pin" style thermal fuse connecting the top
cap of the horizontal sweep tube, just inside the timebase cage was a
clip holding a small roll of low temperature cadmium solder (and a
warning label not to use 60/40) for resetting the fuse.

***No doubt the Brussels suits reaction to lead solder would pale into
insignificance compared to cadmium solder!
Click to expand...
ACH,the HORROR!!!!!

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
 
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
news:f9nd0812gqb59gn756tto2pomt1pikg27m@4ax.com...

On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 14:44:45 +0100, "Ian Field"
<gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:

***Hot air (electric paint stripper) gun and a stiff paintbush - perfect
for
harvesting SMD parts.
Click to expand...
Yep, but I don't do it that way. With SMD, the problem is identifying
the parts after they've been removed. I usually just want the active
components anyway.

***One thing I particularly go after is the larger multilayer SMD chip
capacitors, surprisingly large values in surprisingly small package. Also
the larger discrete semiconductors, the TO251/252 fit less veroboard space
than a TO92.
 
"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
news:XnsA0948371EC7D7jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:IjzNr.11534$N4.1018@fx07.am4:

"Jamie" wrote in message news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...

Tom Del Rosso wrote:

For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even
then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap
pulled out easily on both leads.


If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it
with that, then suck it out..

***Way back in the days of hybrid CTVs, I remember an old Tandberg
telly that had a "safety pin" style thermal fuse connecting the top
cap of the horizontal sweep tube, just inside the timebase cage was a
clip holding a small roll of low temperature cadmium solder (and a
warning label not to use 60/40) for resetting the fuse.

***No doubt the Brussels suits reaction to lead solder would pale into
insignificance compared to cadmium solder!
Click to expand...
ACH,the HORROR!!!!!

***WEEE wasn't even a glint in someone's eye back then - thousands of those
sets went to landfill with the roll of cadmium solder untouched.

***Round about WW2 time - ish; component leads weren't tinned - they were
cad plated.
 
Jim Yanik wrote:
I would be VERY leery of a BGA "re-used";
I don't believe one can get the inner pads to solder reliably.
Click to expand...

It's done all the time, but you have to 'reball' the chip first.
Then it's exactly like using a new part. Military & medical have to
have the lead free crap repalced with real solder balls. You can buy
the balls and simple tooling on Ebay for very little money to reball
them yourself.
 
Chas wrote:
"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...
Tom Del Rosso wrote:

For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out of a
hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out. It's like
an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even then I can't
get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap pulled out
easily on both leads.


If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it with
that, then suck it out..
Also, I've used my hot air wand to clear the holes.

Jamie




Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than the
hole.
Click to expand...

And take out part of the via (your 'hole') in the process? A board
with damaged vias would be scrapped at the factory.
 
Tom Del Rosso wrote:

For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out of a
hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out. It's like an
obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even then I can't get
a
dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap pulled out easily on
both leads.


It probably is lead-free solder. Dilute the solder with tin-lead solder,
Click to expand...
which will lower the melting point. Then, use a solder sucker, solder
wick or what have you to clear the hole.

Jon
 
On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 11:50:18 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
wrote:

I would be VERY leery of a BGA "re-used";
I don't believe one can get the inner pads to solder reliably.
Click to expand...
True. It's NOT easily done. I've only tried one large BGA chip and
it didn't work. However, I've successfully replacing two smaller BGA
wireless chips. Instead of reballing, I used solder paste on both the
chip and the PCB. Then reflow with a hot air desoldering station.
Here's the general idea:
<http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JB1InDsWCjQ>
except that I used solder paste instead of trying to make solder balls
on the BGA chip. Note the copious use of (paste) flux. (Incidentally,
the cell phone is a Qualcomm QCP-6035).

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 11:45:43 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
wrote:

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
(...)
Also, pointed dental picks don't work well because there's too much
room for the solder in the hole with the tapered tip. Use a paper
clip or stainless piece of wire instead.

sounds like a job for Chip-Quik or other low-melting-point solder.
Click to expand...
I've never tried the stuff. The problem is that dross (oxidized
solder) will not flow, wick, or can be easily blown through the hole.
All that's really needed is some 60-40 and a little flux. Once the
dross is gone or disolved, the solder should flow and the hole clear
easily. Chip-Quik sounds like an interesting way to do a whole IC at
once, but I have a hot air desoldering station that works.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 19:56:05 +1000, "Chas" <umlaut@xxx.com.au> wrote:

Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than the
hole.
Click to expand...
Bad idea. That usually rips out the plating in the hole. The drill
collects a mix of solder and copper around the outside, which galls
together with the solder plating inside the hole, and eventually rips
out the plating. Even if you can find a workable drill, keeping the
drill exactly perpendicular to the PCB is quite difficult.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
news:ngae08p39a08lmafhrh494apvmtl78i9ja@4ax.com...

On Wed, 18 Jul 2012 19:56:05 +1000, "Chas" <umlaut@xxx.com.au> wrote:

Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than the
hole.
Click to expand...
Bad idea. That usually rips out the plating in the hole. The drill
collects a mix of solder and copper around the outside, which galls
together with the solder plating inside the hole, and eventually rips
out the plating. Even if you can find a workable drill, keeping the
drill exactly perpendicular to the PCB is quite difficult.


***I'm with those against drilling - maybe with a drill bit *MUCH* smaller
than the hole, but if the cutting tip hits a hard obstruction it'll take
chunks out of the through plate wall in preference.
 
Chas wrote:

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...

Tom Del Rosso wrote:


For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out of a
hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out. It's like
an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even then I can't
get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap pulled out
easily on both leads.



If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it with
that, then suck it out..
Also, I've used my hot air wand to clear the holes.

Jamie





Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than the
hole.
you must be careful to not remove the vias conductor when doing so.
Click to expand...

Jamie
 
news@jecarter.us wrote:
On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:53:01 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"
td_03@verizon.net.invalid> wrote:


For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but
even then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole.
The cap pulled out easily on both leads.

A Solder Sucker is much better than a dental pick (I've used both).
The solder sucker can be used on one side of the board while the iron
is still on the pad on the other side of the board, which is when the
solder is at its most liquid state.
Click to expand...
That's exactly what I ended up doing. I was not using a pick to clear the
hole, but only to test it. I have a Pace vacuum station, but it doesn't get
hot enough for lead-free even when mixed with 60/40.


--

Reply in group, but if emailing add one more
zero, and remove the last word.
 
Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:XnsA094833E1873Cjyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:gdzNr.12270$GO2.3901@fx05.am4:



"Tom Del Rosso" wrote in message news:ju5fp8$mfc$1@dont-email.me...


Cydrome Leader wrote:
Tom Del Rosso <td_03@verizon.net.invalid> wrote:

For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but
even then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole.
The cap pulled out easily on both leads.

add fress solder and try again.

burned up and oxidized tips and traces don't conduct heat well and
won't melt solder in a thick or multilayer board. get some solder
wick, the stuff is magic for things like this.

Thanks all.

I got it by applying an iron to one side and the vacuum to the other
side. The Pace desolder station doesn't get hot enough.

I was also using lead-free when I added solder to help it melt. 60/40
worked better.

What's the word on using 60/40 on the replacement?

***Original manufacturers have made remarkable progress in applying
RoHS solder so the components don't fall off after a year or so -
unreliability can rear its ugly head if you pb free solder with the
kit on a typical repair bench.

***If you do get called to book for using 60/40 - just claim that its
old equipment, and you believed that's what it was originally made
with.

***If its for hobby purposes and not for resale, that's also exempt.



if you sucked out the applied solder,there's probably little leaded solder
left to "harm" anyone. maybe not even detectable with their usual tests.

And I'm not going to tell on you. :)

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
Click to expand...


From someone in a high-reliability RoHS derogated industry, it is quite a
work-up to test for elemental lead on the "tinning" of component leads.
Their problem is false-manifest/specced components that are bought supposed
to be the now expensive leaded tining , actually being now-standard PbF
components and fraudulently traded.
 
"Jamie" wrote in message news:y%HNr.15630$Kb4.13788@newsfe20.iad...

Chas wrote:

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
message news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...

Tom Del Rosso wrote:


For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out of a
hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out. It's like
an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even then I can't
get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap pulled out
easily on both leads.



If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it with
that, then suck it out..
Also, I've used my hot air wand to clear the holes.

Jamie





Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than the
hole.
you must be careful to not remove the vias conductor when doing so.
Click to expand...

Jamie

***Easier said than done!
 
Ian Field wrote:

"Jamie" wrote in message news:y%HNr.15630$Kb4.13788@newsfe20.iad...

Chas wrote:

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
message news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...

Tom Del Rosso wrote:


For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but
even then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole.
The cap pulled out easily on both leads.



If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it
with that, then suck it out..
Also, I've used my hot air wand to clear the holes.

Jamie





Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than
the hole.

you must be careful to not remove the vias conductor when doing so.

Jamie

***Easier said than done!
I have a tip I made for my Hot air wand that has a hypodermic needle on
Click to expand...
it. I heat it up and hit the air switch and push it through the hole.

Jamie..
 
Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:y81Or.10676$jA7.883@newsfe15.iad...
Ian Field wrote:



"Jamie" wrote in message news:y%HNr.15630$Kb4.13788@newsfe20.iad...

Chas wrote:

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
message news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...

Tom Del Rosso wrote:


For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but
even then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole.
The cap pulled out easily on both leads.



If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it
with that, then suck it out..
Also, I've used my hot air wand to clear the holes.

Jamie





Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than
the hole.

you must be careful to not remove the vias conductor when doing so.

Jamie

***Easier said than done!
I have a tip I made for my Hot air wand that has a hypodermic needle on
it. I heat it up and hit the air switch and push it through the hole.

Jamie..
Click to expand...

What is that like with PbF ?. Hypos use stainless steel and I find stainless
steel is a reasonable identifier of PbF as it determinedly sticks to
stainless steel, does the capilliary bore of the needle then totally block
with solder?
 
"Jamie" wrote in message news:y81Or.10676$jA7.883@newsfe15.iad...

Ian Field wrote:

"Jamie" wrote in message news:y%HNr.15630$Kb4.13788@newsfe20.iad...

Chas wrote:

"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
message news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...

Tom Del Rosso wrote:


For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out of
a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out. It's
like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but even then I
can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole. The cap pulled
out easily on both leads.



If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it with
that, then suck it out..
Also, I've used my hot air wand to clear the holes.

Jamie





Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than the
hole.

you must be careful to not remove the vias conductor when doing so.

Jamie

***Easier said than done!
I have a tip I made for my Hot air wand that has a hypodermic needle on
Click to expand...
it. I heat it up and hit the air switch and push it through the hole.

Jamie..

***Many years ago I made an SMD harvesting machine out of a portable LPG
heater and an old fridge compressor.

***The copper pipe was coiled and stuffed behind the guard on the heater,
right in front of the burners. A carburetor jet was peened into the end of
the copper pipe to produce a fierce jet of very hot air.

***A cardboard box on its side opposite the nozzle caught most of the low
flying SMDs, but I had to abandon it because it was just too hot sitting so
close to the heater.
 
N_Cook wrote:
Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:

I have a tip I made for my Hot air wand that has a hypodermic needle on
it. I heat it up and hit the air switch and push it through the hole.

Jamie..


What is that like with PbF ?. Hypos use stainless steel and I find stainless
steel is a reasonable identifier of PbF as it determinedly sticks to
stainless steel, does the capilliary bore of the needle then totally block
with solder?
Click to expand...

According to what he wrote he is forcing hot air through the needele, so
solder can't get inside it.
 
N_Cook wrote:

Jamie <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in message
news:y81Or.10676$jA7.883@newsfe15.iad...

Ian Field wrote:



"Jamie" wrote in message news:y%HNr.15630$Kb4.13788@newsfe20.iad...

Chas wrote:


"Jamie" <jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in
message news:7gnNr.4237$jA7.3135@newsfe15.iad...


Tom Del Rosso wrote:



For the past couple of hours I've been trying to get the solder out
of a hole. It's a mobo cap, and the other hole sucked right out.
It's like an obstruction. The solder melts with difficulty, but
even then I can't get a dental pick as deep as in the other hole.
The cap pulled out easily on both leads.



If you have some indium base solder or old leaded solder, reflow it
with that, then suck it out..
Also, I've used my hot air wand to clear the holes.

Jamie





Carefully drill the solder out with a PCB drill slightly smaller than
the hole.

you must be careful to not remove the vias conductor when doing so.

Jamie

***Easier said than done!

I have a tip I made for my Hot air wand that has a hypodermic needle on
it. I heat it up and hit the air switch and push it through the hole.

Jamie..




What is that like with PbF ?. Hypos use stainless steel and I find stainless
steel is a reasonable identifier of PbF as it determinedly sticks to
stainless steel, does the capilliary bore of the needle then totally block
with solder?


you have your air pump when when doing so. No, it does not stick to the
Click to expand...
needles I use. In fact, I can just shake it and the solder will fall off.

Jamie
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Welcome to EDABoard.com

Sponsor

Back
Top