Scooter Soldering Kit Battery

[Ian Singer]

ian field wrote:

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.

Very BAD idea. Plumbers flux is acid based and that is not what you want
on wires.

Ian Singer
--


=========================================================================
See my homepage at http://www.iansinger.com
hosted on http://www.1and1.com/?k_id=10623894
All genealogy is stored in TMG from http://www.whollygenes.com
Charts and searching using TNG from http://www.tngsitebuilding.com
I am near Toronto Canada, can I tell where you are from your reply?
=========================================================================

 

[Paul aka Sporty]

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame" down to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when using
it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2049774

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-RSF-R80-2-/200-385

 

[ian field]

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame" down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when using
it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.

It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands off
and start all over again!

 

[Jim Yanik]

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:Cd%kl.53463$%t5.45516@newsfe16.ams2:

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done
|>with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and
the SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts.
Should be good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the
meltable parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the
"flame" down to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised, the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub
of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry
on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on
any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to
cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!

soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Paul aka Sporty]

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Cd%kl.53463$%t5.45516@newsfe16.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with
it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame" down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when using
it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have
to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and
do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined
strands off and start all over again!

Always remember to slide a piece of shrink wrap up the wire BEFORE starting.
That's the 1st step in a clean solder joint, All metal must be clean and
bright, Then flux and heat to temp, Tinning sometimes
makes the job quicker, After feeding solder and getting a smooth flow allow
to cool before moving to avoid a cold solder joint.

 

[Paul aka Sporty]

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9BB09A6433DFAjyanikkuanet@74.209.136.84...

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:Cd%kl.53463$%t5.45516@newsfe16.ams2:


"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done
|>with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and
the SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts.
Should be good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the
meltable parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the
"flame" down to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised, the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub
of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry
on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on
any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to
cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!




soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down the
road the joint will fail.

 

[Paul aka Sporty]

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9BB09A6433DFAjyanikkuanet@74.209.136.84...

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:Cd%kl.53463$%t5.45516@newsfe16.ams2:


"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done
|>with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and
the SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts.
Should be good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the
meltable parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the
"flame" down to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised, the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub
of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry
on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on
any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to
cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!




soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Capillary action will pull the acid up the insulator when heated and the
joint will fail down the road

 

[ian field]

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9BB09A6433DFAjyanikkuanet@74.209.136.84...

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:Cd%kl.53463$%t5.45516@newsfe16.ams2:


"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done
|>with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and
the SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts.
Should be good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the
meltable parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the
"flame" down to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised, the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub
of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry
on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on
any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to
cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!




soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

Over the years I've done hundreds of joints with active flux, usually
replacing damaged connectors with one's salvaged from a scrap loom, I've
never had a repair fail although I do give the joint a quick wipe with a
damp rag before burning on the heat shrink tube.

 

[Jim Yanik]

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in
news:9C%kl.124$cW.101@newsreading01.news.tds.net:

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9BB09A6433DFAjyanikkuanet@74.209.136.84...
"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:Cd%kl.53463$%t5.45516@newsfe16.ams2:


"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <whats@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...


"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scooter@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done
|>with it.


I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty
messy sometimes..


Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature
and the SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic
parts. Should be good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the
meltable parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn
the "flame" down to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out
anyway. OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.




The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other
than solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when
using it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised, the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a
tub of active plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints -
heat shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.




Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can
carry on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder
takes on any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then
have to cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!




soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that
vibration breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered
with rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down
the road the joint will fail.

that's the "iffy" part....the -complete- cleaning.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 

[Who Me?]

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work -

I'm sure that tens of millions of technicians and plumbers world wide with
thank you for telling them that what they have been doing successfully for
years really isn't working!!! Bull shit.

At the point where the flux liquefies and begins to boil......but before it
burns to a crisp.....THAT is when you apply the solder......or at least
those of us who know what we are doing do.

 

[S'mee]

On Feb 11, 11:57 pm, R. LaCasse <scoo...@yamaha.info> wrote:

On Wed, 11 Feb 2009 21:37:53 -0800 (PST), "S'mee"

stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:

|>On Feb 9, 6:07 am, Bob <r...@armageddon.info> wrote:
|>>         I wanna know if I can hot wire my scooter battery to a regular
|>> 12v/60w soldering iron to do local soldering repairs without going to the
|>> other fuel/chemical bonding methods for safety ????
|
|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.

        Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..

Really? Are you SURE about that? 'cause I've been using them since the
early 90's and have never "Burnt the plastic around the soldering
area" over heated some wire that I was working on? Sure, do that with
an electric one also...who hasn't?

        Maybe I'll go rob a crack head for his butane lighter for all the
use I would need it for on this crampy plastic application....

You sure don't know what you are talking about that's for damn sure.
But hey do it the hard way, if that's what you want. I mean what would
I know, just because I've done if for a long damn time.
--
Keith

 

[S'mee]

On Feb 12, 1:00 pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

"Paul aka Sporty" <wh...@too.you> wrote in messagenews:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...







"ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <wh...@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...

"Who Me?" <hitchhi...@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scoo...@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.

I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..

Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts.  Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame" down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.

The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when using
it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.

It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands off
and start all over again!

Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith

 

[.]

On Feb 12, 10:00 pm, "S'mee" <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:

Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.

OK, so you were a precocious 10 year old kid. Too bad you haven't
matured...

 

[Paul aka Sporty]

soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down the
road the joint will fail.

46 years of soldering and still learning new "Tricks".

 

[ian field]

"Who Me?" <hitchhiker@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:1n4ll.17517$c45.14716@nlpi065.nbdc.sbc.com...

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.


It doesn't work -

I'm sure that tens of millions of technicians and plumbers world wide with
thank you for telling them that what they have been doing successfully for
years really isn't working!!! Bull shit.

At the point where the flux liquefies and begins to boil......but before
it burns to a crisp.....THAT is when you apply the solder......or at least
those of us who know what we are doing do.

You're really good at twisting words aren't you - especially having snipped
all the relevant content that would have shown up your twisted rant.

With cored solder the solder is applied simultaneously with the flux - not
after the flux has burned as you mischievously suggest.

I suggest you try to find a topic you know squat about to criticise!

 

[ian field]

"S'mee" <stevenkeith2@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8742c1cc-066b-4a9b-942b-13cd2ed5d233@h16g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 12, 1:00 pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

"Paul aka Sporty" <wh...@too.you> wrote in
messagenews:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...







"ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <wh...@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...

"Who Me?" <hitchhi...@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scoo...@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with
it.

I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..

Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame" down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.

The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when using
it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.

It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have
to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do
the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands
off
and start all over again!

Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith

Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of
applications) for a bit longer than you then.

In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.

 

[Who Me?]

"ian field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote

With cored solder the solder is applied simultaneously with the flux - not
after the flux has burned as you mischievously suggest.

I suggest you try to find a topic you know squat about to criticise!

You are the one that said flux burns.
I am the one that said if you do it RIGHT, it does NOT burn......regardless
of the source, paste or core or flowing in a machine.

Screw you. I have probably done and supervised more solder joints in my 40
year career than you have seen or imagined.

 

[S'mee]

On Feb 13, 7:19 am, "." <Rhiann...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Feb 12, 10:00 pm, "S'mee" <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote:

Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.

OK, so you were a precocious 10 year old kid. Too bad you haven't
matured...

and yet I'm STILL more mature and intelligent than you. I DO, I don't
need to explain.
--
Keith

 

[S'mee]

On Feb 13, 11:57 am, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com>
wrote:

"S'mee" <stevenkei...@hotmail.com> wrote in message

news:8742c1cc-066b-4a9b-942b-13cd2ed5d233@h16g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
On Feb 12, 1:00 pm, "ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com
wrote:





"Paul aka Sporty" <wh...@too.you> wrote in
messagenews:62%kl.121$cW.110@newsreading01.news.tds.net...

"ian field" <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Y4_kl.42279$v6.27265@newsfe25.ams2...

"Paul aka Sporty" <wh...@too.you> wrote in message
news:iFZkl.119$cW.35@newsreading01.news.tds.net...

"Who Me?" <hitchhi...@dont.panic> wrote in message
news:jbXkl.6923$jZ1.3381@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...

"R. LaCasse" <scoo...@yamaha.info> wrote

|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with
it.

I think I suggested that about a week ago!

Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..

Not if you use your brain just a TINY bit.

You fire it up, let it heat to the proper useable temperature and the
SHUT THE FLAME OFF before you get near the plastic parts. Should be
good
for one or two joints before the wind cools it off too much.
OR
The little catalytic flame only blows in one direction; once you
figure
that out, you should be able to point it AWAY from the meltable
parts........and once it is up to temp. and you turn the "flame" down
to
a maintenance level, there isn't that much heat coming out anyway.
OR
You could continue to whine over nothing.

The Portasol is very controllable, I never melted anything other than
solder with it.
All you need is some soldering skills and some common sense when using
it.

A good flux is often handy too.

The strands in vehicle wiring are rarely tin plated and usually
oxidised,
the flux in cored solder just makes a mess so I keep a tub of active
plumbers flux ready to hand.

Someone else mentioned the risk of vibration to soldered joints - heat
shrink sleeve reduces this risk significantly.

Rosin Flux Soldering Paste is what you need.

It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have
to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do
the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands
off
and start all over again!

Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith

Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of
applications) for a bit longer than you then.

In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.-

agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.
--
Keith

 

[R. LaCasse]

On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 21:56:56 -0800 (PST), "S'mee"
<stevenkeith2@hotmail.com> wrote:

|>>         Maybe I'll go rob a crack head for his butane lighter for all the
|>> use I would need it for on this crampy plastic application....
|>
|>You sure don't know what you are talking about that's for damn sure.
|>But hey do it the hard way, if that's what you want. I mean what would
|>I know, just because I've done if for a long damn time.

What CRACK?????...no shit heh!