Root cause insight into the common BMW blower motor resistor

In message <kif8k1$ddg$2@news.albasani.net>, Bimmer Owner
<dontaskfor@mymail.com> writes
It's easy enough to test the resistance of the blower motor though,
and those results have come out at about 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
Motors are not just a resistive load though.
--
Clive
 
On Sat, 23 Mar 2013 10:48:27 +0000, Clive <clive@yewbank.demon.co.uk>
wrote:

In message
acc3106a-224e-4a7c-a17e-69cfe3e13fba@v8g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>,
"trader4@optonline.net" <trader4@optonline.net> writes
Instead of just a simple
fan motor, it's a fan that's variable speed, driven by a PWM
signal.
If by PWM you mean pulse width modulation, then it would allow for
variable speed, but a DC motor is an inductive load and is not sensibly
controlled by such a system unless there is something in the circuit to
allow the peak voltage generated by the motor at pulse cut of to be
shunted to earth.
PWM is the most common method of controlling the speed of DC motors -
a flywheel diode is part of the "system" to handle the inductive
kick-back. Virtually all battery operated variable speed power tools
use PWM. So do virtually all electric bicycles with brush motors and
the vast majority of electric forklifts.

In fact, just about any application of a brush type DC motor that
requires reasonable speed control has switched to PWM control of some
sort over the last 20 years, including power wheel chairs (except
those using 3 phase brushless motors)
 
jim beam wrote:
it means that, if you know what you're looking at, a dvm can tell you
most of what you need to know here.

Sure it can, if you're nothing more than a low grade grease monkey.


fact check required

Your checks always bounce.

--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week. :(
 
clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
dontaskfor@mymail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:

Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.

That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg

The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612

It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.

So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult

Take a blown fuse and use it for a test connector with a cheap
50-0-50A meter. Then you can just plug it in in place of the fuse to
make the test. You won't even have to worry about the polarity. You
can use a high current shunt, & a digital meter if you want more
accuracy.


--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week. :(
 
Bimmer Owner wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:03:45 -0700, Ashton Crusher wrote:

If it's being blown by intermittent high current draws the
fuse could protect the $100 FSU.

That's an interesting idea. The FSU supposedly consumes the
most power when the blower motor is set to the LOW settings
(simply because it has to dissipate the power as heat), so,
we could prevent excess current by fusing... say with a 10A
fuse, the blower motor (which is said to consume 5 to 6 A).

It should generate less heat at low speeds, if it is PWM.


--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week. :(
 
On Sat, 23 Mar 2013 22:27:41 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
dontaskfor@mymail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:

Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.

That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg

The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612

It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.

So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult


Take a blown fuse and use it for a test connector with a cheap
50-0-50A meter. Then you can just plug it in in place of the fuse to
make the test. You won't even have to worry about the polarity. You
can use a high current shunt, & a digital meter if you want more
accuracy.
Or just get the special tester that is made to plug into the
fuseblock. Autel makes the MX101 and 201 (10 amp and 20 amp) units for
the lighter duty stuff.
 
tm wrote:
"Bimmer Owner" <dontaskfor@mymail.com> wrote in message
news:kig343$pdf$2@news.albasani.net...
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 15:03:45 -0700, Ashton Crusher wrote:

If it's being blown by intermittent high current draws the
fuse could protect the $100 FSU.

That's an interesting idea. The FSU supposedly consumes the
most power when the blower motor is set to the LOW settings
(simply because it has to dissipate the power as heat), so,
we could prevent excess current by fusing... say with a 10A
fuse, the blower motor (which is said to consume 5 to 6 A).


Are you sure it is not already a pulse width regulator? Those transistors
look like they are TO-220 packages, not TO-3.

I've seen 20W power resistors in TO-220 packages.


PWM has been around longer than SMT parts.

Maybe it is transients from the motor that are causing the failures.

Another place you could measure the current is by putting an ammeter in
place of the blower motor fuse.

tm

--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week. :(
 
clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
On Sat, 23 Mar 2013 22:27:41 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
dontaskfor@mymail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:

Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.

That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg

The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612

It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.

So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult


Take a blown fuse and use it for a test connector with a cheap
50-0-50A meter. Then you can just plug it in in place of the fuse to
make the test. You won't even have to worry about the polarity. You
can use a high current shunt, & a digital meter if you want more
accuracy.
Or just get the special tester that is made to plug into the
fuseblock. Autel makes the MX101 and 201 (10 amp and 20 amp) units for
the lighter duty stuff.

Is that cheaper than roll your own?


--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week. :(
 
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
tm wrote:


Are you sure it is not already a pulse width regulator? Those transistors
look like they are TO-220 packages, not TO-3.

I've seen 20W power resistors in TO-220 packages.
It does indeed look like a TO-220 from the pin spacing (since there are no
actual transistors in the photos, just spots from which they were removed).

But if it had been a PWM device, there would have been some filtering in
there, inductors and capacitors to keep the noise from getting into the
power lines. Designing clean and quiet PWM controllers is not quite as
trivial as some folks have made it out to be.

PWM has been around longer than SMT parts.

Maybe it is transients from the motor that are causing the failures.
This is possible, if it is the transistors that are failing. I don't see
any big protection diodes in there either.

If it's a RoHS soldering issue, though, I would not be surprised.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
 
Scott Dorsey wrote:
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

tm wrote:


Are you sure it is not already a pulse width regulator? Those transistors
look like they are TO-220 packages, not TO-3.

I've seen 20W power resistors in TO-220 packages.


It does indeed look like a TO-220 from the pin spacing (since there are no
actual transistors in the photos, just spots from which they were removed).

But if it had been a PWM device, there would have been some filtering in
there, inductors and capacitors to keep the noise from getting into the
power lines. Designing clean and quiet PWM controllers is not quite as
trivial as some folks have made it out to be.


PWM has been around longer than SMT parts.

Maybe it is transients from the motor that are causing the failures.


This is possible, if it is the transistors that are failing. I don't see
any big protection diodes in there either.

If it's a RoHS soldering issue, though, I would not be surprised.
--scott

A few car manufacturers use resistor wire in the harness leading to
the motor connection at the blower box.

This lowers the Q significantly giving you a voltage drop of course,
but it also reduces electrical noise and helps suppress the wheeling
voltages.

Blower motors in this case are normally designed to operate lets say
8 volts for example, for full RPM.

I learned this years ago when going through the pain of removing the
blower in an air box of a Chrysler product, only to find there was
nothing wrong with the motor. Symptoms led on to the fact there was
since the output of the speed control circuit was alive and happy but
no obvious connection to the motor. If I had unplugged it from the air
box before pulling that all apart, I would of noticed it.

The problem was the resistor wire in the harness which had open at the
crimp point, also in the harness.

Jamie
 
On 03/20/2013 09:13 PM, jim beam wrote:
On 03/20/2013 08:08 PM, Bimmer Owner wrote:
Does anyone have insight into what is the root cause (and repair) of the
FSU failure that plagues almost every 1997 to 2003 BMW?

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=126060&d=1194115994


Also, does anyone have an idea HOW TO TEST a "repaired" FSU?

The "blower motor resistor", which also goes by FSR (Final Stage
Resistor)
or by FSU (Final Stage Unit), is known to fry itself in almost every
single
E46 (3-series), E39 (5-series), and E38 (7-series) BMW.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=143393

The problem with replacing this ~$100 part is that the new replacement
FSU
fries itself just as often as the old one did, so you end up repeatedly
replacing your fried FSU every few years or so.
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528566

That's fine for most people (although the DIY is a PITA) - but I ask
this newsgroup whether anyone has any insight into WHAT is actually
breaking - and - why?
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=309399

Here is the best (admittedly sketchy) wiring diagram we have so far:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/12467819/img/12467819.png


that looks like a linear semiconductor controller - an incredibly
antiquated concept for a modern car.
well, you live and learn. apparently the reason they use a linear
controller is because it allows the fan to run near silently at low
speed. with pwm control the fluctuating magnetic fields in the motor
coils cause it to vibrate and make a humming noise at the pwm control
frequency.

that doesn't of course get around the fact that the unit in question
here is apparently badly under rated, but the above does at least
explain why it's used.


old resistor packs for fans were open wire that sat in the fan's air
stream for cooling. they were generally very reliable if their alloy
wasn't too susceptible to salt.

that unit looks like it still sits in the air stream with that honking
great heat sink and i estimate it's trying to dissipate >100W. that can
only mean it's a linear controller because a modern pwm device can
control high motor currents with very little heat dissipation <10W.

bottom line, a linear controller is always going to get hot and end up
frying itself over time. the only thing you can do is either replace it
with another unit that will ultimately meet the same fate, or undertake
a significant modification.

for the latter, you can try putting an even bigger heat sink on it - but
i doubt there's a lot extra room available. you can also "pwm" it. i
built a similar unit to deal with a linear controller over-heat issue on
my 89 civic.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/38636024@N00/5068043855
http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/PWM

depending on how much time you want to spend on a project like that, pwm
can control superbly and offers benefits like motor speed not being so
susceptible to supply voltage [engine idle voltage drop] etc.

the down side of pwm is that it can generate electrical noise. [poor
stereo installations can be particularly susceptible.] the ideal
solution is to implement pwm with "soft switching", but that's getting
quite advanced.

--
fact check required
 
that looks like a linear semiconductor controller - an incredibly
antiquated concept for a modern car.

well, you live and learn. apparently the reason they use a linear
controller is because it allows the fan to run near silently at low
speed. with pwm control the fluctuating magnetic fields in the motor
coils cause it to vibrate and make a humming noise at the pwm control
frequency.

that doesn't of course get around the fact that the unit in question
here is apparently badly under rated, but the above does at least
explain why it's used.
I see many Motor Speed Control Manufacturers upped their PWM
frequency to be between 16 K to 22 K to eliminate much of the noise.
Mikek
 
"amdx" <amdx@knologynotthis.net> wrote in message
news:41097$514f2120$18ec6dd7$30905@KNOLOGY.NET...
that looks like a linear semiconductor controller - an incredibly
antiquated concept for a modern car.

well, you live and learn. apparently the reason they use a linear
controller is because it allows the fan to run near silently at low
speed. with pwm control the fluctuating magnetic fields in the motor
coils cause it to vibrate and make a humming noise at the pwm control
frequency.

that doesn't of course get around the fact that the unit in question here
is apparently badly under rated, but the above does at least explain why
it's used.

I see many Motor Speed Control Manufacturers upped their PWM frequency
to be between 16 K to 22 K to eliminate much of the noise.
Mikek
That would also make the LPF very much smaller.

Even going to 40 to 60 kHz makes the magnetics smaller. We still do not know
what is under the PCB for that unit.

tm
 
On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:28:00 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
<mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:

clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Sat, 23 Mar 2013 22:27:41 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
dontaskfor@mymail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:

Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.

That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg

The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612

It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.

So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult


Take a blown fuse and use it for a test connector with a cheap
50-0-50A meter. Then you can just plug it in in place of the fuse to
make the test. You won't even have to worry about the polarity. You
can use a high current shunt, & a digital meter if you want more
accuracy.
Or just get the special tester that is made to plug into the
fuseblock. Autel makes the MX101 and 201 (10 amp and 20 amp) units for
the lighter duty stuff.


Is that cheaper than roll your own?
Definitely not, if you already have a multimeter - but it is easier
for the guys who can't figure out how to do it without butchering the
wiring harness.
 
amdx wrote:

that looks like a linear semiconductor controller - an incredibly
antiquated concept for a modern car.

well, you live and learn. apparently the reason they use a linear
controller is because it allows the fan to run near silently at low
speed. with pwm control the fluctuating magnetic fields in the motor
coils cause it to vibrate and make a humming noise at the pwm control
frequency.

that doesn't of course get around the fact that the unit in question
here is apparently badly under rated, but the above does at least
explain why it's used.

I see many Motor Speed Control Manufacturers upped their PWM frequency
to be between 16 K to 22 K to eliminate much of the noise.
Mikek
Sure, if you don't mind heating the motor up...

Jamie
 
clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:
On Sun, 24 Mar 2013 02:28:00 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Sat, 23 Mar 2013 22:27:41 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:


clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
dontaskfor@mymail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:

Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.

That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg

The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612

It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.

So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult


Take a blown fuse and use it for a test connector with a cheap
50-0-50A meter. Then you can just plug it in in place of the fuse to
make the test. You won't even have to worry about the polarity. You
can use a high current shunt, & a digital meter if you want more
accuracy.
Or just get the special tester that is made to plug into the
fuseblock. Autel makes the MX101 and 201 (10 amp and 20 amp) units for
the lighter duty stuff.


Is that cheaper than roll your own?
Definitely not, if you already have a multimeter - but it is easier
for the guys who can't figure out how to do it without butchering the
wiring harness.

That type shouldn't be allowed to own any tools. They generally do
more damage than good. If they do get something to work, it rarely lasts
because they have no clue what because the problem.

I've seen too many vehicles that some idiot cut and patched back
together. One stepvan I bought years ago had a damaged harness and I
talked them down almost $1000 on the price. It was coming off lease
from a fleet, and they wanted to fix it themselves. i pointed out that
if they could repair it properly, it wouldn't be in that condition.
--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week. :(
 
Scott Dorsey wrote:
Michael A. Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
tm wrote:


Are you sure it is not already a pulse width regulator? Those transistors
look like they are TO-220 packages, not TO-3.

I've seen 20W power resistors in TO-220 packages.

It does indeed look like a TO-220 from the pin spacing (since there are no
actual transistors in the photos, just spots from which they were removed).

All those photos only show one side. I full reverse engineering
should be done to draw a full schematic but I've never had my hands on
that module. It would probably take a couple of them, because ot the
potting.


But if it had been a PWM device, there would have been some filtering in
there, inductors and capacitors to keep the noise from getting into the
power lines. Designing clean and quiet PWM controllers is not quite as
trivial as some folks have made it out to be.
Have you looked at the National Semiconductor (Now part of T.I)
'Simple Switcher' series of controllers? Generally only one inductor
and a couple small electrolytics. A lot simpler than older designs, and
little noise because of the small footprint.


PWM has been around longer than SMT parts.

Maybe it is transients from the motor that are causing the failures.

This is possible, if it is the transistors that are failing. I don't see
any big protection diodes in there either.

If it's a RoHS soldering issue, though, I would not be surprised.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

--

Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

Sometimes Friday is just the fifth Monday of the week. :(
 
In article <kin5r4$pi1$1@dont-email.me>, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:
well, you live and learn. apparently the reason they use a linear
controller is because it allows the fan to run near silently at low
speed. with pwm control the fluctuating magnetic fields in the motor
coils cause it to vibrate and make a humming noise at the pwm control
frequency.
Yes, this is why you put an integrator stage after the pwm stage, so that
the motor sees nice filtered DC with very little of the PWM leftover.

Problem is that the integrator stage costs money and big electrolytics
tend to have limited life, so auto folks don't like doing that.

that doesn't of course get around the fact that the unit in question
here is apparently badly under rated, but the above does at least
explain why it's used.
It's a cheap, reliable way of doing the job, if it's done right. It's clear
that it wasn't done right, but I'm still waiting to hear what was done wrong.
Given all the RoHS-related failures and the report that touching up solder
joints on the transistors fixes the problem, I am suspicious that it's a
soldering issue made worse by the extreme temperature cycling.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
 
On 03/25/2013 06:59 AM, Scott Dorsey wrote:
In article <kin5r4$pi1$1@dont-email.me>, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:

well, you live and learn. apparently the reason they use a linear
controller is because it allows the fan to run near silently at low
speed. with pwm control the fluctuating magnetic fields in the motor
coils cause it to vibrate and make a humming noise at the pwm control
frequency.

Yes, this is why you put an integrator stage after the pwm stage, so that
the motor sees nice filtered DC with very little of the PWM leftover.

Problem is that the integrator stage costs money and big electrolytics
tend to have limited life, so auto folks don't like doing that.
you don't want to integrate the output, merely rub the shoulders off the
square waves to get the harmonics down. the whole point and benefit of
pwm is that you have full voltage full power available in each pulse.
that's how you can start and control a motor with high torque at low
rpm. if you integrate or smooth out the motor's supply, you effectively
lose that and the motor won't start or torque the same way or even at all.


that doesn't of course get around the fact that the unit in question
here is apparently badly under rated, but the above does at least
explain why it's used.

It's a cheap, reliable way of doing the job, if it's done right.
in this day and age, that's no longer true. motor control is one of the
hot ticket items on the silicon fab agenda, and has been for some time.
there are some great pwm options out there, and for not a lot of money.


It's clear
that it wasn't done right, but I'm still waiting to hear what was done wrong.
Given all the RoHS-related failures and the report that touching up solder
joints on the transistors fixes the problem, I am suspicious that it's a
soldering issue made worse by the extreme temperature cycling.
you definitely have a point there, but given the size and shape of that
heat sink, i don't think there's any way that silicon is getting
sufficient cooling, and is clearly way up against its ceiling. whether
that's accident or design is another matter, but the bottom line is that
it's an issue that spans multiple different module manufacturers across
multiple continents with different internal designs - that reduces the
probability of it being rohs and slaps it firmly into the vehicle
manufacturer's lap.


--
fact check required
 
On 03/24/2013 08:52 AM, amdx wrote:
that looks like a linear semiconductor controller - an incredibly
antiquated concept for a modern car.

well, you live and learn. apparently the reason they use a linear
controller is because it allows the fan to run near silently at low
speed. with pwm control the fluctuating magnetic fields in the motor
coils cause it to vibrate and make a humming noise at the pwm control
frequency.

that doesn't of course get around the fact that the unit in question
here is apparently badly under rated, but the above does at least
explain why it's used.

I see many Motor Speed Control Manufacturers upped their PWM
frequency to be between 16 K to 22 K to eliminate much of the noise.
Mikek
interesting.


--
fact check required
 

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