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I found the same. The chip is listed here:If you google for 10901D it comes back with hits to Chinese chip brokers
that show it as an Elmos 16 pin surface mount chip.
I found a Russian language description of it here:If you google for 10901D it comes back with hits to Chinese chip brokers
that show it as an Elmos 16 pin surface mount chip.
Here is a google translationI found a Russian language description of it here:
http://tinyurl.com/crg2sms
Googling for the Russian text, I find they appear to haveI found a Russian language description of it here:
you don't need to know this stuff any more than you need to know the gasOn Fri, 22 Mar 2013 12:31:09 +0000, Bimmer Owner wrote:
I found a Russian language description of it here:
http://tinyurl.com/crg2sms
Here is a google translation
REGULATOR ELMOS 10901D
Car Voltage Regulator
Category: Car
Source: Radioland country Electronics
Temperature controller cabin air KAMAZ
Source: Plans radiokonstruktsy
Simple Temperature compensated voltage regulator.
Controller together with thyristor-transistor electronic ignition unit
with a long spark, ensuring the rapid start-ups at various operating
conditions, allowed to increase battery life of up to nine years.
Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Regulator for automotive windshield
Source: MASTER KIT
The controller measures the wiper-this control is designed to use regular mode switch blades and is contactless.
Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Temperature compensated voltage regulator device in some ways superior designs.
The controller can be used as a universal device is suitable not only for
mounting on any car, but everywhere, where the generator rotor speed is
variable (eg, wind power).
Choose the appropriate control elements, it can be easily adapted to work
with any voltage (up to 400V) and excitation current (tens of amperes).
Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage regulator 2012.3702, 22.3702, 221.3702
Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage regulator 201.3702
Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage Regulator 13.3702
Source: For the life of a soldering iron ...
Voltage regulator RR132A, 1112.3702
you don't want to try and use a 10/20A meter in the slot of a 40A fuse.On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.
That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg
The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
It's a 40 amp fuse
under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
I don't know how many bmws are out there, but let's say it's a million#1 is really not /that/ expensive, particularly if you factor in time,
even if it is part of the bmw marketing susceptibility tax.
If it's just a typical DC motor with two leads, apply 12V andOn Thu, 21 Mar 2013 03:55:47 -0700, the will wrote:
Blower motor drawing too much amperage taking it out.
Change the blower motor anytime?
This is an interesting approach, given that the vast majority of
bimmer owners do NOT replace the blower motor - they replace the FSU.
While the blower motor replacement procedure is a major PITA, one
'can' test the leads from the FSU harness connector pins #5 and #1
which are power and ground respectively to the blower motor.
Again, we don't have a circuit diagram, but it has been said that
the blower motor takes about 6 amps (variously, depending on the speed)
but it would take a test jig to test that in operation.
To my knowledge, nobody has created that test jig (although I know
of only one attempt, which failed):http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=678534&highlight=fsu
It's easy enough to test the resistance of the blower motor though,
and those results have come out at about 0.4 to 0.6 ohms.
It would be expensive to change a blower motor on a whim, so, how
would YOU suggest the blower motor be tested in situ?
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make yourOn Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.
That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg
The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
It's kind of amazing the fuse is 40 amps, no? I mean a 1 hpOn Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
dontask...@mymail.com> wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.
That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg
The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. You guys make your
lives so difficult- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
in this thread it's been said it draws 6A running. x 12V, that's 72W.On Mar 22, 3:04�pm, cl...@snyder.on.ca wrote:
On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 04:31:00 +0000 (UTC), Bimmer Owner
dontask...@mymail.com> wrote:
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 20:01:20 -0400, clare wrote:
�Just put your ammeter into the heater blower fuse connector and you
get the current of the blower motor.
That's an interesting idea.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475041/img/12475041.jpg
The fuse for the blower motor is called the "infamous F76" for a reason.
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=674612
It's a 40 amp fuse under the glovebox but it's in a really inaccessible
spot; however, it's right side up, so, the wires going INTO it are
visible from the tips of your feet under the glove box.
So that's a possibility; but you'd have to cut the wires.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12475043/img/12475043.jpg
ďż˝ Why would you have to cut the wires????
Simply remove the fuse and connect the ammeter. �You guys make your
lives so difficult- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
It's kind of amazing the fuse is 40 amps, no? I mean a 1 hp
motor draws ~1500W And this heater blower is 480W?
Seems like a lot to me.....
=========Does anyone have insight into what is the root cause (and repair) of the
FSU failure that plagues almost every 1997 to 2003 BMW?
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=126060&d=1194115994
Almost every BMW E39 (5-series) and E38 (7-series) and E46 (3-series)
has shorts that develop in the trunk wiring loom - all in the same spot!
you don't need to know this stuff any more than you need to know the gas
excitation voltage in a broken fluorescent tube. because you're not going
to unpot the thing and replace the chip. because it's probably not the
chip in the first place.
not trying to be rude - just trying to get you focused on the relevant
stuff - that the two options are:
1. continue replacing the existing [under-rated, low tech] unit.
2. build and deploy a pwm unit instead.
#1 is really not /that/ expensive, particularly if you factor in time,
even if it is part of the bmw marketing susceptibility tax.
#2 is a much better time investment - it certainly has a much better
return than figuring out that the existing unit is not repairable later
rather than sooner.
--
fact check required
variable speed, but a DC motor is an inductive load and is not sensiblyInstead of just a simple
fan motor, it's a fan that's variable speed, driven by a PWM
signal.
If by PWM you mean pulse width modulation, then it would allow for
That "something" could be as simple as a diode. PWM isIn message
acc3106a-224e-4a7c-a17e-69cfe3e13...@v8g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>,
"trad...@optonline.net" <trad...@optonline.net> writes> Instead of just a simple
fan motor, it's a fan that's variable speed, driven by a PWM
signal.
If by PWM you mean pulse width modulation, then it would allow for
variable speed, but a DC motor is an inductive load and is not sensibly
controlled by such a system unless there is something in the circuit to
allow the peak voltage generated by the motor at pulse cut of to be
shunted to earth.
--
Clive
I don't have a link, but we had the blower resistor widgetHave you got a link to these "common problems" you keep posting about?
"Bimmer Owner" <dontask...@mymail.com> wrote in message
news:kidtio$bco$1@news.albasani.net...
Does anyone have insight into what is the root cause (and repair) of the
FSU failure that plagues almost every 1997 to 2003 BMW?
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=126060&d....
========
Almost every BMW E39 (5-series) and E38 (7-series) and E46 (3-series)
has shorts that develop in the trunk wiring loom - all in the same spot!- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
--That "something" could be as simple as a diode. PWM is
commonly used to vary the power to a motor. BMW, for
example, uses it on the aux fan motor of the X5. And I
would suspect that it's also used for the blower motor
because you wind up wasting a lot less power that way.
And every little bit of power saved adds up and effects MPG.
I agree with all you say.
that must have been interesting - what did that motor do?In article <kigfbd$nq7$2@dont-email.me>, jim beam <me@privacy.net> wrote:
On 03/21/2013 07:23 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
*why* is it overheating?
because it's linear, retard. if you don't know what they means, fuck
off until you find out.
Nothing wrong with linear motor control, it's just inefficient and
produces a lot of heat. I used to work in a place with a 1.2 MW DC
motor
that must have been a sight to see too.whose field coil voltage was controlled by a couple rooms full
of cast-iron resistors.
shipped to china? or replaced by pwm controllers?The resistance array lasted nearly 80 years
before the whole facility was taken down.
As long as you keep within the safe operating area of the semiconductors,
you're fine. If you exceed them, bad things happen. But we don't know
if the semiconductors are failing on these things, or if it's just
ordinary RoHS solder failures; the RoHS crap doesn't like thermal cycling
so well.
--scott
ancient news - controller designers and semiconductor manufacturers haveIn message
acc3106a-224e-4a7c-a17e-69cfe3e13fba@v8g2000yqe.googlegroups.com>,
"trader4@optonline.net" <trader4@optonline.net> writes
Instead of just a simple
fan motor, it's a fan that's variable speed, driven by a PWM
signal.
If by PWM you mean pulse width modulation, then it would allow for
variable speed, but a DC motor is an inductive load and is not sensibly
controlled by such a system unless there is something in the circuit to
allow the peak voltage generated by the motor at pulse cut of to be
shunted to earth.
serious question - why did you buy it?On Mar 22, 7:42�pm, "R. Mark Clayton" <nospamclay...@btinternet.com
wrote:
Have you got a link to these "common problems" you keep posting about?
"Bimmer Owner" <dontask...@mymail.com> wrote in message
news:kidtio$bco$1@news.albasani.net...
Does anyone have insight into what is the root cause (and repair) of the
FSU failure that plagues almost every 1997 to 2003 BMW?
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=126060&d...
=========
Almost every BMW E39 (5-series) and E38 (7-series) and E46 (3-series)
has shorts that develop in the trunk wiring loom - all in the same spot!- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
I don't have a link, but we had the blower resistor widget
go on an X5 here. And the aux cooling fan motor has gone
twice. There are plenty of threads online about many people having
those problems. Oh, and don't forget the
nice X5 feature where the cable that they use to hold up the
windows snaps, sending the window crashing down inside
the door, breaking it into a million pieces. Had that happen
twice too, once while the car was just sitting in the driveway.
Other time was driving down the highway.
Then there are their defective rubber parts. Like the boot on
the intake manifold that cracks in just a few years. Or the
CV joint boots. I've had lots of cars with CV boots and
only on the X5 do they fail every 20K miles. I've seen Honda CRVs
that went 200K miles with no failure.