PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

Bob Parker <bobp.deletethis@bluebottle.com> wrote in
news:l9qaa2ds0ikaf7gjhfpaajecjqpq02qtu2@4ax.com:
While searching for something else, I discovered a 2MB 127 page
.pdf file which is full of useful reference info about electronics,
components and things related to electronics, with a lot of handy
charts etc. Well worth the 2MB download, I thought.
It's at www.elfa.se/en/fakta.pdf
Click to expand...
Many aus.aviators and aus.motians will also find this reference
invaluable, so I've taken the liberty of cross-posting it.

This one is a keeper in my view. Table of contents is as
follows:

Fuses
Residual current devices
Lights/Lamps
Switches/Relays
Sensors
Fans
Heatsinks
Pneumatic components
Connectors
PCB production
Enclosures
19" enclosure systems
Cables
Optofibre
Inductors
Resistors
Potentiometers
Capacitors
Diodes
Transistors/Thyristors
Optical components
Linear integrated circuits
A/D, D/A converters
Logic circuits
Microprocessors
Memory circuits
Thermionic valves
Transformers
Batteries/Rechargeable batteries
Solar cells and solar panels
Power supplies
Computer products
Data communication
Process control and computing
Measuring instruments
Environmental monitoring
Aerials
Radio communication
Tools and production aids
Electro static discharge
Screwdrivers
Pliers, Cutters
Chemicals
Adhesives/Bonding
Soldering
Wire wrapping
Do-It-Yourself kits
Plastics
Units and constants
Units
8-bit ASCII table
Electromagnetic radiation
Conversion table, inches/mm

HTH,

GB
--
"Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the
entrails of the last priest." (Diderot, paraphrasing Meslier)
 
"two bob" <tb@department9.com.au> wrote in message
news:44a8cc25_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
You dont need a table, when SHMBO bites your head off, she has her period.
Click to expand...
Does the H stand for Who?

MrT.
 
Where was this when I was an apprentice!!
Thanks GB

--
Clem


"GB" <gb0506@kickindanuts.threefiddy.com> wrote in message
news:12agfbnt5s7868c@corp.supernews.com...
Bob Parker <bobp.deletethis@bluebottle.com> wrote in
news:l9qaa2ds0ikaf7gjhfpaajecjqpq02qtu2@4ax.com:
While searching for something else, I discovered a 2MB 127 page
.pdf file which is full of useful reference info about electronics,
components and things related to electronics, with a lot of handy
charts etc. Well worth the 2MB download, I thought.
It's at www.elfa.se/en/fakta.pdf

Many aus.aviators and aus.motians will also find this reference
invaluable, so I've taken the liberty of cross-posting it.

This one is a keeper in my view. Table of contents is as
follows:

Fuses
Residual current devices
Lights/Lamps
Switches/Relays
Sensors
Fans
Heatsinks
Pneumatic components
Connectors
PCB production
Enclosures
19" enclosure systems
Cables
Optofibre
Inductors
Resistors
Potentiometers
Capacitors
Diodes
Transistors/Thyristors
Optical components
Linear integrated circuits
A/D, D/A converters
Logic circuits
Microprocessors
Memory circuits
Thermionic valves
Transformers
Batteries/Rechargeable batteries
Solar cells and solar panels
Power supplies
Computer products
Data communication
Process control and computing
Measuring instruments
Environmental monitoring
Aerials
Radio communication
Tools and production aids
Electro static discharge
Screwdrivers
Pliers, Cutters
Chemicals
Adhesives/Bonding
Soldering
Wire wrapping
Do-It-Yourself kits
Plastics
Units and constants
Units
8-bit ASCII table
Electromagnetic radiation
Conversion table, inches/mm

HTH,

GB
--
"Men will never be free until the last king is strangled with the
entrails of the last priest." (Diderot, paraphrasing Meslier)
Click to expand...
 
"Patrick Young <patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU>" <patrick@unknown> wrote in
message news:C7VzYXtF7iGW@unknown...
Kinda cool, I'm guessing they can be fitted to older existing units,
using a clear lense?
Click to expand...
They've actually been around in some places for while now (5 years or so).

The odd thing is that they use coloured-body LEDs, as opposed to those with
a clear body that light up in the desired colour. Thus it's sometimes (when
subject to bright sun glare) still hard to see whether to go or stop as they
all kinda look "on". Of course it's still much better than the old globe +
lense type though.

Maybe the clear LEDs aren't as bright as the coloured ones?
 
"Lohn J. Deister" <LJD@awkward.com> wrote in message
news:kkIqg.113$8k.92@news.cpqcorp.net...
"Patrick Young <patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU>" <patrick@unknown> wrote in
message news:C7VzYXtF7iGW@unknown...
Kinda cool, I'm guessing they can be fitted to older existing units,
using a clear lense?

They've actually been around in some places for while now (5 years or so).

The odd thing is that they use coloured-body LEDs, as opposed to those
with a clear body that light up in the desired colour. Thus it's sometimes
(when subject to bright sun glare) still hard to see whether to go or stop
as they all kinda look "on". Of course it's still much better than the old
globe + lense type though.

Maybe the clear LEDs aren't as bright as the coloured ones?
Click to expand...
**Nope.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
 
Lohn J. Deister wrote:
"Patrick Young <patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU>" <patrick@unknown
wrote in message news:C7VzYXtF7iGW@unknown...
Kinda cool, I'm guessing they can be fitted to older existing units,
using a clear lense?

They've actually been around in some places for while now (5 years or
so).
The odd thing is that they use coloured-body LEDs, as opposed to
those with a clear body that light up in the desired colour. Thus
it's sometimes (when subject to bright sun glare) still hard to see
whether to go or stop as they all kinda look "on". Of course it's
still much better than the old globe + lense type though.

Maybe the clear LEDs aren't as bright as the coloured ones?
Click to expand...
They are Japanese. GREEN and LED.

geoff
 
Geoff wrote:
Lohn J. Deister wrote:
"Patrick Young <patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU>" <patrick@unknown
wrote in message news:C7VzYXtF7iGW@unknown...
Kinda cool, I'm guessing they can be fitted to older existing units,
using a clear lense?

They've actually been around in some places for while now (5 years or
so).
The odd thing is that they use coloured-body LEDs, as opposed to
those with a clear body that light up in the desired colour. Thus
it's sometimes (when subject to bright sun glare) still hard to see
whether to go or stop as they all kinda look "on". Of course it's
still much better than the old globe + lense type though.

Maybe the clear LEDs aren't as bright as the coloured ones?

They are Japanese. GREEN and LED.

geoff
Click to expand...
Ooops , sorry, GLEEN.

geoff
 
"Geoff" <geoff@nospam-paf.co.nz> wrote in message
news:ZIadnZABeeiS1DHZnZ2dnUVZ_oKdnZ2d@giganews.com...
Geoff wrote:
Lohn J. Deister wrote:
"Patrick Young <patrick@hilux.ace.unsw.EDU.AU>" <patrick@unknown
wrote in message news:C7VzYXtF7iGW@unknown...
Kinda cool, I'm guessing they can be fitted to older existing units,
using a clear lense?

They've actually been around in some places for while now (5 years or
so).
The odd thing is that they use coloured-body LEDs, as opposed to
those with a clear body that light up in the desired colour. Thus
it's sometimes (when subject to bright sun glare) still hard to see
whether to go or stop as they all kinda look "on". Of course it's
still much better than the old globe + lense type though.

Maybe the clear LEDs aren't as bright as the coloured ones?

They are Japanese. GREEN and LED.

geoff

Ooops , sorry, GLEEN.

geoff
Click to expand...
LOL
 
denard.springle@gmail.com wrote:
Hey Folks,

Just wanted to drop a quick note in here to tell everyone about a
new website community for electronics hobbyists some friends and I have
started and the associated shop. Our primary focus will be on
microcontroller projects using the PIC and/or BasicStamp. We'd like to
cover multiple topics including robotics, automation, control, etc. We
also have an online store where we sell the surplus components from/for
our projects and from bulk buys we pick up now and again. We're eager
to get more people interested in participating on the site and welcome
anyone who would like to contribute to the growth of the site in any
way :) I now return you to your regularly scheduled programming :)

http://www.electronichobbyshop.com/ and/or
http://shop.electronichobbyshop.com/

Thanks,
Denny Springle
Click to expand...
BASIC Stamp?, ancient!, everyone has moved to PIC-AXE!

Nice idea though BTW, hope it takes off.

Dave :)
 
Phil,

thanx for your feedback on pcbcart. I will probably use them.

Did you go one step further and find someone to load pcbs cheaply too?

Dale


Phil in Melbourne wrote:
"Mike" <erazmus@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
news:44851fd5$0$28217$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
In article <1149492833.815400.209310@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
rtt55t_y@126.com says...


Low Cost High quality pcb prototype and Assembly manufacturer(CHINA).
We are manufacture low cost, high quality PCB prototypes in China.

Website: http://www.njpcb.com

I recall some weeks ago someone tried this group out, any luck ?



--
Regards
Mike
* GMC/VL Commodore, Calais VL Turbo FuseRail that wont warp or melt !
* High grade milspec ignition driver electronics now in development
* Twin Tyres to suit most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
http://niche.iinet.net.au




I'm the one that said I would try them out.....

After a LOT of google searching, I could only find multiple spam copies of
their email. I could not find one single review of their service. So things
looked a little dodgy.

I'm not saying that njpcb are scammers, just saying that they might be, and
spamming is not the nicest way to get business. They have been good in email
communication with me, but they only take direct deposit or Western Union
Money transfer (which rings warning bells). No credit cards, no pay pal, so
no way of reversing funds if they are scam artists. So I chose a safer
option based on a review I found on the net.


With my run of 100 boards, I ended up using pcbcart.com They are also a
Chinese company. - Their prices are fantastic, their boards are fantastic,
they are quick, excellent quality, and no complaints other than charging a
bit too much for postage. They wanted around $80 for regular air mail or $90
for fed-ex.

Their online quote calculator is good too. I will be using them confidently
again soon for a 700 piece production run.
Click to expand...
 
Dale,
No I do the PCB runs for a university where the students put the boards
together so I cant recommend anyone for loading boards.

-Phil

"daleInmelb" <dalegomes@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1152166498.867794.128030@v61g2000cwv.googlegroups.com...
Phil,

thanx for your feedback on pcbcart. I will probably use them.

Did you go one step further and find someone to load pcbs cheaply too?

Dale


Phil in Melbourne wrote:
"Mike" <erazmus@iinet.net.au> wrote in message
news:44851fd5$0$28217$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
In article <1149492833.815400.209310@i40g2000cwc.googlegroups.com>,
rtt55t_y@126.com says...


Low Cost High quality pcb prototype and Assembly manufacturer(CHINA).
We are manufacture low cost, high quality PCB prototypes in China.

Website: http://www.njpcb.com

I recall some weeks ago someone tried this group out, any luck ?



--
Regards
Mike
* GMC/VL Commodore, Calais VL Turbo FuseRail that wont warp or melt !
* High grade milspec ignition driver electronics now in development
* Twin Tyres to suit most sedans, trikes and motorcycle sidecars
http://niche.iinet.net.au




I'm the one that said I would try them out.....

After a LOT of google searching, I could only find multiple spam copies
of
their email. I could not find one single review of their service. So
things
looked a little dodgy.

I'm not saying that njpcb are scammers, just saying that they might be,
and
spamming is not the nicest way to get business. They have been good in
email
communication with me, but they only take direct deposit or Western Union
Money transfer (which rings warning bells). No credit cards, no pay pal,
so
no way of reversing funds if they are scam artists. So I chose a safer
option based on a review I found on the net.


With my run of 100 boards, I ended up using pcbcart.com They are also a
Chinese company. - Their prices are fantastic, their boards are
fantastic,
they are quick, excellent quality, and no complaints other than charging
a
bit too much for postage. They wanted around $80 for regular air mail or
$90
for fed-ex.

Their online quote calculator is good too. I will be using them
confidently
again soon for a 700 piece production run.
Click to expand...
 
OK read carefully .

"James Thompson" <thommo56@yahool.com> wrote in message
news:44d1ee9c@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
Hi I have a DVD Recorder with HD, and I want to record
some stuff from my
VCR.
Click to expand...
What Make/Model?

However when I went to try it, it comes up with a message
that my TV is not
compatible with this DVD Recorder.

What Make/Model?
Click to expand...

What should I do, is there some settings on my TV I should
change ?
My TV is pretty new, only about 2 years old.
Click to expand...
What Make/Model? And how is all this stuff connected? What
leads are you using connected to what?

Any adice much appreciated.
Click to expand...
Be a little more specific ;-)

Thanks.J

Cheers TT
Click to expand...
 
"James Thompson" <thommo56@yahool.com> wrote in message
news:44d285dc@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
yes AV leads.
Its a Pioneer DVD Recorder and a LG TV, the problem is only trying to
record from the VCR to DVD recorder.
Click to expand...
**It is likely that you are trying to record copyright material. (Naughty,
naughty). You need a Macrovision defeat system, if you wish to violate the
law with such impunity.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au



--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
 
On Fri, 4 Aug 2006 09:25:09 +1000, "James Thompson"
<thommo56@yahool.com> wrote:

yes AV leads.
Its a Pioneer DVD Recorder and a LG TV, the problem is only trying to record
from the VCR to DVD recorder.
"Allan" <allanaws@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:44d2662c$0$21321$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...

"James Thompson" <thommo56@yahool.com> wrote in message
news:44d1ee9c@dnews.tpgi.com.au...
Hi I have a DVD Recorder with HD, and I want to record some stuff from my
VCR.
However when I went to try it, it comes up with a message that my TV is
not compatible with this DVD Recorder.

What should I do, is there some settings on my TV I should change ?
My TV is pretty new, only about 2 years old.
Any adice much appreciated.

Thanks.J


Strange that the TV tells you its not compatible?

Do you get this message when you are trying to record or just playing a
DVD?
What make/ model gear have you got?
Are you using AV leads to connect the TV to the DVD recorder?
Allan
Click to expand...

Hmmmm, smells like copy protection to me. Are the tapes commercial
ones ? If so, do you have the same problems with tapes you record
yourself ?

If this is the problem, you may be able to accomplish the recording
with the aid of a "video enhancer" connected between the VCR & the DVD
recorder.

HTH

Dave (one of the many)
 
H. M. wrote:
I am currently working on a design involving an ATmega48 12MHz MCU in
the digital area of the PCB and 8 galvanically isolated 24V opto digital
inputs located in another area of the PCB. The input isolator is a
standard Sharp PC847 general purpose photocoupler.

The layout will be a 2-layer PCB with two separate areas, digital
section on the left, input area on the right. I certainly will have as
much GND polygon and fill areas as possible on the digital side.

Now, is it recommendable to fill the non-copper areas on the isolated
input side with copper too? The 8 inputs have a common return which
could be used as the potential for the copper fill.
Click to expand...
I would recommend you stop the copper pour at the digital side of the
opto-coupler, leave the input side bare. You don't want any of your
high frequency digital stuff to couple into the input tracks.

Dave :)
 
David L. Jones wrote:
H. M. wrote:
I am currently working on a design involving an ATmega48 12MHz MCU in
the digital area of the PCB and 8 galvanically isolated 24V opto digital
inputs located in another area of the PCB. The input isolator is a
standard Sharp PC847 general purpose photocoupler.

The layout will be a 2-layer PCB with two separate areas, digital
section on the left, input area on the right. I certainly will have as
much GND polygon and fill areas as possible on the digital side.

Now, is it recommendable to fill the non-copper areas on the isolated
input side with copper too? The 8 inputs have a common return which
could be used as the potential for the copper fill.

I would recommend you stop the copper pour at the digital side of the
opto-coupler, leave the input side bare. You don't want any of your
high frequency digital stuff to couple into the input tracks.
Click to expand...
Dave,

That's what I have done so far and your comment confirms that I was on
the right track. Thanks a lot.

Ricky
 
Dana wrote:
"Vitaliy" <vmykhayl@ee.ryerson.ca> wrote in message
news:1159055088.803133.110670@m7g2000cwm.googlegroups.com...
Hi David,

Is the maximum Vp-p I can get from an opamp with +/-5V rails 5V then?
I know I measured the output of transimpedance amplifier and I was
getting maximum ~8Vp-p :confused:

Vitaliy

David L. Jones wrote:
Vitaliy wrote:
Hello,

I'm looking to add the 2nd stage to photodiode transimpedance
amplifier. All I want to achieve by 2nd stage is voltage gain and
capability to drive 50 Ohm loads. The first stage is OPA657.

1) a) Given power supply for opamp +-5V, should I select the opamp
that
has Io,max=>200mA. I do expect Vpeak-to-peak,output to be 10V.
b) Is that output current achievable only at maximum supply
voltage,
or as long as
You won't get 10Vp-p output from an opamp with +/-5V rails, you need a
larger supply voltage.

Dave :)

Are you sure about that.
Assume you have a 1k resistor on the inverting input in series with the
incoming signal. On the feedback line from the output back to the input you
have a 10k res, and on the non inverting input you have a 1k (909ohm
resister if you do the math).
With an input sinewave of 1 volt at 1ma you will have a 10v p-p output


Priceless. Where does the extra magical voltage come from?
Click to expand...
You've described gain here, but failed to take into account that the
opamp has supply rails of +-5V, and hence its output will clip when it
gets near this value.
 
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