PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[Mr.T]

"The Real Andy" <will_get_back_to_you_on_This@> wrote in message
news:med722hkkgniichpa65kqpnbqrrcap9tm0@4ax.com...

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 15:10:38 +1100, "Mr.T" <MrT@home> wrote:
"The Real Andy" <will_get_back_to_you_on_This@> wrote in message
news:30m422df0ainjh764gdbvdd15r1s43r0l3@4ax.com...

I thought palsonic assembled in australia too, or is that the same
factory?

I thought "Palsonic" was just a rip off monika trying to fool people that
their "no name" Chinese made crap was actually made by Panasonic.
Do you have any information to the contrary?

I was close, kinda:

How do you figure that? Have they *ever* assembled TV's in Australia as you
suggest, or always imported and rebadged them, as they do now?
It seems to me they have simply changed badges from "Princess" to
"Palsonic".

http://www.palsonic.com.au/about_us/about.htm

Seems Palsonic is an Aussie company, that looks like it rebadges gear
made by offshore manufacturers.

Which is what I said.

MrT.

 

[Mr.T]

"Jasen Betts" <jasen@free.net.nz> wrote in message
news:efd.44245c06.6f8c7@clunker.homenet...

Or would he be better off installing copper pipe (skin effect where
electrons prefer outside of strand to inside)?

skin effect is for AC only.

High frequency AC only.

MrT.

 

[Magic Mushroom Farmer]

Hey....It is a water wheel running a regulated Alternator from a car.
I have learned I can trick the alternator into giving off more volts by
removing a diode or so.
Maybe 18volt....also the possibility of running in AC,then regulating
it back to 12vDC for an inverter.....thats if I can get enough power to
the destination.

I think my distance was more like,150m-200m however playing it safe.
As it is a costly exercise to experiment over this
distance....technical information or personal experience is a plus.
This is supposed to be a quick and dirty way to get some
power..lights...maybe a TV.
300W at the destination would be a good start.

Most people that are doing this are based close to their water wheels.
I

 

[Magic Mushroom Farmer]

Maybe a coupe of dc to ac inverters are the trick.

Are you suggesting that at the power source(water trubine) convert it
to AC 240V via invertor,conduct it a couple hundred meters .....I do
want AC 240V at the destination....I can live with a slighly dodgy AC
power supply....been there many times over 100m with extenstion
cords...?

 

[Mark Harriss]

Magic Mushroom Farmer wrote:

Maybe a coupe of dc to ac inverters are the trick.


Are you suggesting that at the power source(water trubine) convert it
to AC 240V via invertor,conduct it a couple hundred meters .....I do
want AC 240V at the destination....I can live with a slighly dodgy AC
power supply....been there many times over 100m with extenstion
cords...?

You could probably experiment with some older Fisher and Paykel washer
motors driven as alternators to get some higher voltages, they are three
phase though.

http://www.thebackshed.com/Windmill/assembly1.asp

They claim 0 to 300V unloaded at 2-3 amps for an unmodified winding.
You could probably bung a few on the one shaft and transmit high voltage
low current on three wires and use a 3 phase transformer at the far end.

 

[Allan]

"dmm" <dmmilne_REMOVE_@ozemail.com.au> wrote in message
news:jnm722lu4gf1k1i1g8v1qii6e097vdsi1b@4ax.com...

On Fri, 24 Mar 2006 19:18:36 +1000, "Allan" <all@n.com> wrote:

What do you expect!
We all want a decent Pay each week,

I get a decent pay each week. Don't you? If not, perhaps you should
consider
a different vocation. Perhaps being a lawyer, doctor, surgeon, accountant,
architect, mechanical, project, or electrical engineer would make you
happier
with your pay packet.

We are not Little China men working in a country earning next to nothing.

So why do you think they closed the Factory in Australia, and investing
$150 million for a building and equipment in Singapore?

Because I , like YOU want a Good wage.

Allan

 

[David L. Jones]

The Real Andy wrote:

On 25 Mar 2006 04:40:29 -0800, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com
wrote:

S Roby wrote:
Hi ther
The local Kmart is selling 12v cordless drills for less than NZ$10 , about $7
in real money.
I was think of buying on just for the battery pack. Its less than the cost of
2 good (Eveready) AA rechargeable batts.

I know every drill will be different but generally....
Will the battery pack just be nasty old nicads, or something better??
What could I expect to see in the battery pack??. Just a bunch of AA batts
joined together or something else ??

Almost certainly the poorest quality nicads available, and spot welded
together. They won't be AA size.

I bought one of these cheap drills less than a year ago. 3 weeks ago i
replaced it with a $300 dewalt unit.

So your dewalt one should last 30 years then huh? ;->

Our $15 Bunnings drill is still going strong at work after several
years.
We got a cordless drill, half a dozen power boards, and a whole bunch
of hand tools for under the $50 petty cash limit. Not the best quality
for sure, but they work just fine, and the prices are amazing.

Dave

 

[Jason James]

"bruce varley" <bxvarley@weqstnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:441fd64e$1@quokka.wn.com.au...

Hi, This must be a common question, but I can't find anything relating to
it in back postings on my machine. What's the effect of parallelling two
stereo outputs to produce one mono one, without any interposing
resistance?
Can you actually break something by doing it with ordinary hifi-standard
gear? Is there any devastating effect on quality, I guess I'll hear it if
there is. TIA

Use a hybrid transformer. Two inputs have high rejection (typically higher
than 30db),..a common output.

Jason.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Jason James"

Use a hybrid transformer. Two inputs have high rejection (typically higher
than 30db),..a common output.

** LOL.

A two resistor "mixer" does the job OK

- using 2 x 4.7 kohms or 2 x 10 kohms.

Or, the luxury method is two 1:1 *audio line transformers* with
secondaries wired in *series*.



......... Phil

 

[Jason James]

"Phil Allison" <philallison@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:48m9ucFkpcatU1@individual.net...

"Jason James"

Use a hybrid transformer. Two inputs have high rejection (typically
higher
than 30db),..a common output.


** LOL.

That is what you call a forced laugh,..lol!

A two resistor "mixer" does the job OK

Still less than good design. OK for mikes and passive signal sources.

- using 2 x 4.7 kohms or 2 x 10 kohms.

Or, the luxury method is two 1:1 *audio line transformers* with
secondaries wired in *series*.

Luxury? Try proper,..but still a bit spastic,..the hybrid is THE way.

Jason

........ Phil

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2006-03-25, Magic Mushroom Farmer <jjbruce@gmail.com> wrote:

Hey....It is a water wheel running a regulated Alternator from a car.
I have learned I can trick the alternator into giving off more volts by
removing a diode or so.

even more by removing the regulator.

Maybe 18volt....also the possibility of running in AC,then regulating
it back to 12vDC for an inverter.....thats if I can get enough power to
the destination.

I'm guessing it's running at a few thousand RPM in which case 50Hz
transformers aren't going to work with it really well.

BTW what sort of car altenator puts out 150A ?
I'm guessing that you have a 35A altenator and batteries right next to it.

here's an idea that could work at 12V ...

If you could put the batteries beside the house and a regulator there too
and run 100A wires from there to the altenator (for battery + and - ) and a
thinner wire from the regulator to the field terminal of the altenator
you'd probably have something that'd work.

(if you leave the regulator in the altenator it'll only see the voltage at
its end of the wires and that'll be higher than the voltage at the other end.
conseqently the batteries won't get fully charged. The built-in regulator
can be easily bypassed and an after-market external regulator is less than
$20)

There'd be losses in the wires but the altenator would just be asked by the
regulator to "work harder" to compensate.

a thermal switch cponnected in the field line, mounted on the body of the
altenator (or the heatsink of the rectifier) could be a good addition too.
(eg jaycar cat# ST-3825) I killed the diodes in an alttenator once by
running it non-stop at full power for too long.

I think my distance was more like,150m-200m however playing it safe.
As it is a costly exercise to experiment over this
distance....technical information or personal experience is a plus.
This is supposed to be a quick and dirty way to get some
power..lights...maybe a TV.
300W at the destination would be a good start.

With the batteries next to your house you'll have upwards of 400A on
demand. use plenty of apropriately sized fuses. That sort of current
can make fires real well, and I'm guessing the firemen out there are
volunteers.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Rob]

"Rod Out Back" <someone@IHATESPAM.BIGPOND.COM> wrote in message
news:96dc22tumeg0sipvlvgc2q1007aaeludrc@4ax.com...

Folks,

Looking for a cheap data-logger for recording DC volts(0-40) on a
remote site. I'm not looking for anything fancy, but I'd prefer a
reasonable memory and USB port. Weatherproof would be nice, but not
essential.

I'd prefer ready-to-go models, but would consider something that
requires (minimal) work to set up.

Any ideas appreciated.


Cheers,

Rod.....Out Back

Hi Rod - whats cheap?
Do you want self powered or is external pwr available?

A "Tiny talk" logger in a 35mm film canister used to be a couple of hundred
$. You could stick a divider on the front end.

Check out Hastings data loggers (Oz)



rob

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2006-03-26, Matt <matt@matt.mm> wrote:

Hi, I have a problem with two TV's. My brothers Samsung flat screen
68cm which is about 2 1/2 years old and my parents Panasonic 59cm
which is about 9-10 years old.

With my brothers Samsung, it was being watched one night and went zap
and that was it. I opened it up and saw that the fuse was blown. I
replced the fuse and went zap again. I am not sure if there is
possibly something wrong with the power supply. I assume the rest of
it might be ok. Any ideas?

yes, sounds like it. typically the power supply is built around the flyback
transformer (other end of the suction-cup looking thing on the tube)
could be a dead transistor, diode, or capacitor, or resistor etc..., and
possibly a combination.

Now my parents was working fine the other day. It was on for about an
hour in the morning working fine and later on I turned it on while my
lunch cooked and all I got was a black picture but I could hear voices
coming from the speaker but the voices were rumbly. Like a broken
signal. Any ideas? Does this sound like a blown tube?

(guess)
short circuit somewhere, or powersupply operating below par for some reason.

Bye.
Jasen

 

[The Real Andy]

On 25 Mar 2006 14:12:10 -0800, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com>
wrote:

The Real Andy wrote:
On 25 Mar 2006 04:40:29 -0800, "David L. Jones" <altzone@gmail.com
wrote:

S Roby wrote:
Hi ther
The local Kmart is selling 12v cordless drills for less than NZ$10 , about $7
in real money.
I was think of buying on just for the battery pack. Its less than the cost of
2 good (Eveready) AA rechargeable batts.

I know every drill will be different but generally....
Will the battery pack just be nasty old nicads, or something better??
What could I expect to see in the battery pack??. Just a bunch of AA batts
joined together or something else ??

Almost certainly the poorest quality nicads available, and spot welded
together. They won't be AA size.

I bought one of these cheap drills less than a year ago. 3 weeks ago i
replaced it with a $300 dewalt unit.

So your dewalt one should last 30 years then huh? ;-

Time will tell, but at least i dont have to charge it every time i use
it, and when it is charged i get more than 20 minutes use from it. And
it only takes one hour to charge when i do need to charge it.

Our $15 Bunnings drill is still going strong at work after several
years.

How often does it get used?

We got a cordless drill, half a dozen power boards, and a whole bunch
of hand tools for under the $50 petty cash limit. Not the best quality
for sure, but they work just fine, and the prices are amazing.

Power boards are another thing i refuse to buy cheap. A decent one
will last, after a couple of dozen uses most cheap ones seem to refuse
to hold onto a plug. I suppose thats OK if it sits behind your
computer and never gets touched though.


One thing i learned when i was a tradesmen is not to buy cheap tools.
Whenever you need them they always fail on you.

Dave

 

[crazy frog]

some models have built in faults in
there power supplies, be carefull if you
replace one part in some models the other
will blow, you have to replace them all.
these kits will help.

"crazy frog" <dingding@bumbadabum.com> wrote in message
news:44263daf$0$20114$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

what model is youre samsung?
yes its sounds like power supply.
there are kits you can get to fix them.
if youre model number matches what have
listed here i can tell you were to get them.

"Matt" <matt@matt.mm> wrote in message
newsuec22ptmc5b93oum8ur64onpu9flbttkn@4ax.com...
Hi, I have a problem with two TV's. My brothers Samsung flat screen
68cm which is about 2 1/2 years old and my parents Panasonic 59cm
which is about 9-10 years old.

With my brothers Samsung, it was being watched one night and went zap
and that was it. I opened it up and saw that the fuse was blown. I
replced the fuse and went zap again. I am not sure if there is
possibly something wrong with the power supply. I assume the rest of
it might be ok. Any ideas?

Now my parents was working fine the other day. It was on for about an
hour in the morning working fine and later on I turned it on while my
lunch cooked and all I got was a black picture but I could hear voices
coming from the speaker but the voices were rumbly. Like a broken
signal. Any ideas? Does this sound like a blown tube?

Thanks for any help.

Regards,
Matt.

 

[me]

A friend is selling a test pattern generator. Not on DVD though.

http://www.cctvlabs.com/tpg/tpg.html


<rg26ce1991@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1142832630.759140.237880@t31g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...

Greetings group.
Someone wrote in to Silicon Chip mag. a while back with the idea of
burning tv test patterns onto a DVD for servicing tv's.

Does anyone have any files like this that they could email me.

I have done a search but cannot find anything useful.


TIA.
Russell.

 

[Rod Out Back]

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 20:37:36 +0800, "Rob" <rdsfal@yahoo.com.au> wrote:

Rob,

Many thanks; I'll have a look at them in detail tomorrow. However,
the few of the tinytalk units that measure voltage seem to only go to
25v max.

I'll probably need the unit to be self-powered, as the power available
at the remote site will be variable at best.

As far as cheap is concerned, I dont want to spend more than
$300-$400Au apiece. Dont know if this is going to get me what I want,
but I would like to think I can find something that suits.

Thanks again,


Cheers,

Rod.....Out Back

Rod - you can extend the voltage input range with a couple of resistors.
Making up a 2:1 divider from two equal value resistors (try 10k+10k? 0.4W)
will double the input voltage range of the logger. So a 25V max input logger
would work well. Range would become 0-->50V. Depending on how smart the
logger is, you may be able to configure it to the new range, if not just
double the values of the data logged after after you download it.
rob

Rob,

Yes; that'd work (only need a max of 40vDC, so 50V would be great).
Easy to double the results to get real voltage(if the logger cant be
configured). I might ring Hastings to see what the tinytalk loggers
are worth.

How do I connect the resistors to achieve this? (assume a simple sort
of lad here in electronics...).

Many thanks.


Cheers,

Rod.....Out Back

 

[The Real Andy]

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 10:44:31 GMT, GB <g.b@sonicresearch.mailme.org>
wrote:

"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in
news:jpkVf.8627$JZ1.317063@news.xtra.co.nz:
"Allan" <all@n.com> wrote in message
news:4425c6e9$0$21308$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...
So why do you think they closed the Factory in Australia, and
investing $150 million for a building and equipment in Singapore?
Because I , like YOU want a Good wage.
Against the capital cost of the equipment, a few wages are (not quite,
but essentially) irrelevant. Singapore gives massive subsidies by way
of tax breaks, tax holidays, and a lesser corporate tax rate.

... and the Singaporeans aren't that far behind us when it comes
to wages, and what they'll work for. It's a first world country,
arguably more technically advanced than us, and the punters there
have an expectation for stand of living and ability to afford gadgets
that is not unlike ours.

A key difference lies in the "power distance" in their culture.
They have a greater respect for authority than we do, and as a
result are likely to be "better" for various values of "work harder",
"quality", etc as a derivative.

If you wanted cheap labour, you wouldn't set up in Singapore. You'd
go there for central location, high level of skill, high power
distance, etc. Not on labour costs though.

GB

I thought that was odd that a company like that would go to Singapore,
when places like india and even china (still) have much cheaper
manufacturing costs. An in addition, the cost of living there is
apparently quite high tdhese days, so I assume real estate is also
quite scarce in singapore.

 

[Ken Taylor]

David L. Jones wrote:

The Real Andy wrote:

On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 10:44:31 GMT, GB <g.b@sonicresearch.mailme.org
wrote:


"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in
news:jpkVf.8627$JZ1.317063@news.xtra.co.nz:

"Allan" <all@n.com> wrote in message
news:4425c6e9$0$21308$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...

So why do you think they closed the Factory in Australia, and
investing $150 million for a building and equipment in Singapore?
Because I , like YOU want a Good wage.

Against the capital cost of the equipment, a few wages are (not quite,
but essentially) irrelevant. Singapore gives massive subsidies by way
of tax breaks, tax holidays, and a lesser corporate tax rate.

... and the Singaporeans aren't that far behind us when it comes
to wages, and what they'll work for. It's a first world country,
arguably more technically advanced than us, and the punters there
have an expectation for stand of living and ability to afford gadgets
that is not unlike ours.

A key difference lies in the "power distance" in their culture.
They have a greater respect for authority than we do, and as a
result are likely to be "better" for various values of "work harder",
"quality", etc as a derivative.

If you wanted cheap labour, you wouldn't set up in Singapore. You'd
go there for central location, high level of skill, high power
distance, etc. Not on labour costs though.

GB

I thought that was odd that a company like that would go to Singapore,
when places like india and even china (still) have much cheaper
manufacturing costs. An in addition, the cost of living there is
apparently quite high tdhese days, so I assume real estate is also
quite scarce in singapore.


I've worked for a couple of large multi-national companies, and where
the work goes has not much to do with the economics of it, it's mostly
to do with internal politics. People protecting their own local jobs,
managers and directors with their own career agenda, whos greasing whos
wheels etc.
In the case of the big name consumer giants there is probably a fair
bit of government politics involved as well.
Who knows, some manufacturing director with a lot of clout may simply
have preferred to move his family to Singapore instead of China - bingo
Singapore get the billion dollar factory.

Dave

While that's no doubt true to an extent, it could make good sense to put

a large investment for the Asia region into Singapore rather than China
or India despite the wage differential as the legal/political structure
is a better known animal.

Ken

 

[Rudolf]

i run it under Linux FC3.

Rudolf

"atec77" <atec77**@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:4420be6c@dnews.tpgi.com.au...

Rudolf wrote:
gEDA suite if you have a Linux machine.
I run it on Linux serevr while running X-Client on my Windows PC

Rudolf

"atec77" <atec77**@hotmail.com> wrote in message
Ill take a look , solaris ?