PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

[Rod Speed]

Some gutless fuckwit car crasher desperately cowering behind
Clockmeister <no-one@nowhere.com> desperately attempted
to bullshit its way out of its predicament in message
news:42a39af8@duster.adelaide.on.net...
and fooled absolutely no one at all, as always.

No surprise that it only ever gets to crash cars.

 

[Ken Taylor]

Excellent! Funny how the simplest solution often eludes us (thanks David!).
Thanks for the feedback.

Cheers.

Ken

"pcman" <tecortina@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:42a99f96$0$11687$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...

i musnt have been thinking straight when i typed the message
i took my dash apart and repainted the gauge so it looks correct then put
a
18 ohm resistor inline ite better than having no gauge and seems pretty
acurate sofar

thanks for the help guys i might put a 360ohm in aswell see if that makes
it
better


"Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:b%3qe.6250$U4.903623@news.xtra.co.nz...
And put 360Ohms across the meter to bring the full-scale resistance
correct.
You could be pedantic and put it across the series resistor as well, but
it's close enough either way.

Ken

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote
in
message
news:42A8C550.77053CED@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just install
a
switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to the
lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the lpg
sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close, but
that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you
just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough
gauge
for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of
fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than
spending
$200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want
200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said
stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the
standard
gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and
have
a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing
circuits i
just dont know where to start

 

[Colin C]

"Clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:42a9aae2@duster.adelaide.on.net...

You should concentrate on getting the basic stuff right first, you can
start
with ohms law.

Easy one - toast always falls butter side down

 

[Clockmeister]

"Colin C" <tobyjug7@yahoo.com.au> wrote in message
news:0fpqe.12475$F7.1056@news-server.bigpond.net.au...

"Clockmeister" <no-one@nowhere.com> wrote in message
news:42a9aae2@duster.adelaide.on.net...
You should concentrate on getting the basic stuff right first, you can
start
with ohms law.

Easy one - toast always falls butter side down

That's Murphy's law lol

 

[Clockmeister]

"Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3gudj7Fec3h2U1@individual.net...

Some gutless fuckwit car crasher desperately cowering behind
Clockmeister <no-one@nowhere.com> desperately attempted
to bullshit its way out of its predicament in message
news:42a39af8@duster.adelaide.on.net...
and fooled absolutely no one at all, as always.

No surprise that it only ever gets to crash cars.

EOT

 

[Mike Paull]

On 5 Jun 2005 17:11:32 -0700, cmwmjt@netspace.net.au wrote:

Well simply the problems stemmed from the cheaply and poorly built
boxes.

The DSE brandname is mostly junk, aside from one or two decent items.

The return rate vs actual legitimate faults are much lower than you think.
However, the general lack of technical lnowledge by PowerHouse staff
members is much higher than average, no doubt most of the STBs you saw
returned were sold for the wrong reasons and the customers given no after
sales backup, after all, the PowerHouse motto is "duh, we dunno, just
refund it..."

mike

 

[Mark Harriss]

Bob Parker wrote:

Why is it that documentation seems to be the weak point with most
brands of micros? The only doco I thought was excellent was for the
old Motorola ones.
I hope you can get the Encore working somehow. The actual device
looks really nice, from what little I've read about it.
Good luck!!

Regards,
Bob

Hi Bob: I got it working eventually: trouble is it's not working on
my computer. It will work on a USB 1.1 computer but not a modern USB
2.0 computer- it's as simple as that, the driver or the smartcable
has an incompatibilty with the latest USB standard.

Regards
Mark Harriss

 

[Kissing Lettuce]

Mike Paull wrote:

On 5 Jun 2005 17:11:32 -0700, cmwmjt@netspace.net.au wrote:

Well simply the problems stemmed from the cheaply and poorly built
boxes.

The DSE brandname is mostly junk, aside from one or two decent items.

The return rate vs actual legitimate faults are much lower than you think.
However, the general lack of technical lnowledge by PowerHouse staff
members is much higher than average, no doubt most of the STBs you saw
returned were sold for the wrong reasons and the customers given no after
sales backup, after all, the PowerHouse motto is "duh, we dunno, just
refund it..."

mike

You know there was a time when DSE staff knew a little bit
about electronics

 

[Mr.T]

"Kissing Lettuce" <sittinginaninternetcafe@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:42AA8708.B7E104F4@hotmail.com...

You know there was a time when DSE staff knew a little bit
about electronics

A *very* little bit unfortunately.
But I agree, they know even less now.

MrT.

 

[pcman]

feedback is always good
ive added the info to our 4x4club so all the guys that run lpg can use this
tip on theres

im happy having a fuel gauge, when you cant get a jerrycan of petrol its a
really good thing



"Ken Taylor" <ken@home.nz> wrote in message
news:A7oqe.6438$U4.938570@news.xtra.co.nz...

Excellent! Funny how the simplest solution often eludes us (thanks
David!).
Thanks for the feedback.

Cheers.

Ken

"pcman" <tecortina@optusnet.com.au> wrote in message
news:42a99f96$0$11687$afc38c87@news.optusnet.com.au...
i musnt have been thinking straight when i typed the message
i took my dash apart and repainted the gauge so it looks correct then
put
a
18 ohm resistor inline ite better than having no gauge and seems pretty
acurate sofar

thanks for the help guys i might put a 360ohm in aswell see if that
makes
it
better


"Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:b%3qe.6250$U4.903623@news.xtra.co.nz...
And put 360Ohms across the meter to bring the full-scale resistance
correct.
You could be pedantic and put it across the series resistor as well,
but
it's close enough either way.

Ken

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com
wrote
in
message
news:42A8C550.77053CED@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just
install
a
switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to
the
lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the
lpg
sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close,
but
that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you
just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough
gauge
for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of
fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than
spending
$200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want
200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i
said
stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the
standard
gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and
have
a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing
circuits i
just dont know where to start

 

[Bob Parker]

Hi again,
I finally got around to installing the package on my XP machine. I
plugged the USB adaptor into what I'm pretty sure is a USB 2.0 socket,
installed the driver and it all worked OK.
I changed the jumper settings to set up the "User" mode had a bit
of a play with the ZDS, and managed to unintentionally overwrite the
demo program in the micro with an example one which just blinks one
LED, so it appears to all be working.
I think I now have a rather steep learning curve to get used to the
extra instructions and things on the chip. It's a bit hard to know
what to do with an 8 pin micro....
I hope you can find out why your USB cables don't want to talk to
your PCs. Once the ZDS is running, it all seems to work pretty well.
Good luck.

Regards,
Bob


Mark Harriss <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote:

Sanjay and Vinay of Zilog technical support tell me it's USB 2
compatible but according to Yahoo groups other people have had the same
problem. I did a clean re-install on the uSB 2 machine but that did do
it either. I'll try a USB 1.1 card and see if that helps.

Regards
Mark Harriss

 

[Mark Harriss]

Bob Parker wrote:

G'day Mark,
That's not so great. One of my mates who also bought one of the
Zilog XP boards said he thought the USB cable was up to the 2.0
standard. Looks like he's in for a bit of a surprise.
I might see if I can get mine doing something this long weekend,
even if it's only the sample LED flashing code.

Regards
Bob


Mark Harriss <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote:

Hi Bob: I got it working eventually: trouble is it's not working on
my computer. It will work on a USB 1.1 computer but not a modern USB
2.0 computer- it's as simple as that, the driver or the smartcable
has an incompatibilty with the latest USB standard.

Regards
Mark Harriss

Sanjay and Vinay of Zilog technical support tell me it's USB 2
compatible but according to Yahoo groups other people have had the same
problem. I did a clean re-install on the uSB 2 machine but that did do
it either. I'll try a USB 1.1 card and see if that helps.

Regards
Mark Harriss

 

[Bob Parker]

Hi Mark,
My friend who also got one of the Encore XP 8-pin kits had all the
same problems with the USB cable as you. I'm not 100% sure of what he
did to correct it, but he also wasted a lot of time.
So far it looks like I'm the only person who hasn't had major
problems making it work.
I've been reading through the documentation of the Encore XP series
and it looks like a micro worth persevering with... even if it runs on
3.3V. I suppose the good thing is that it could be powered by a pair
of torch cells.

Regards,
Bob


Mark Harriss <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote:

Ok Bob: the final solution for me was to get into my motherboard
BIOS and set it to USB 1.1 from 2.0 and it all worked fine from there on
in. If I had to suspect something I would say it's the motherboard
drivers, I also flashed a new copy of the motherboard BIOS as the maker
mentioned a USB locking up fix in the BIOS but that didn't help in this
case.

I don't have any other USB 2.0 peripherals to see if it's a problem
with the computer.

Regards
Mark
(

 

[Mark Harriss]

Bob Parker wrote:

Hi again,
I finally got around to installing the package on my XP machine. I
plugged the USB adaptor into what I'm pretty sure is a USB 2.0 socket,
installed the driver and it all worked OK.
I changed the jumper settings to set up the "User" mode had a bit
of a play with the ZDS, and managed to unintentionally overwrite the
demo program in the micro with an example one which just blinks one
LED, so it appears to all be working.
I think I now have a rather steep learning curve to get used to the
extra instructions and things on the chip. It's a bit hard to know
what to do with an 8 pin micro....
I hope you can find out why your USB cables don't want to talk to
your PCs. Once the ZDS is running, it all seems to work pretty well.
Good luck.

Regards,
Bob

Ok Bob: the final solution for me was to get into my motherboard
BIOS and set it to USB 1.1 from 2.0 and it all worked fine from there on
in. If I had to suspect something I would say it's the motherboard
drivers, I also flashed a new copy of the motherboard BIOS as the maker
mentioned a USB locking up fix in the BIOS but that didn't help in this
case.

I don't have any other USB 2.0 peripherals to see if it's a problem
with the computer.

Regards
Mark
(

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

Chris Jones wrote:

bruce varley wrote:

Hi, My nephew is 10, mad keen on electronics. What minimum age do people
think is appropriate for owning a soldering iron?

10 is plenty old enough if he has a responsible attitude. You'd better
point out to him also that it's important to keep the iron in a
non-flamable stand and to make sure it's switched off and unplugged when
not in use. I left mine plugged into a (switched-off) power adapter when I
was young and the iron was just lying on some old cardboard. Some silly
adult decided to plug something else into the power adapter and turned it
on - luckily it just charred the cardboard and the house didn't burn down.

Also get him a decent iron with a stand and sponge, that way he can learn
about the difficulties of soldering without being confused by the
difficulties of a crap iron. Get at least a second hand Weller TCP or at
the very minimum an Antex. The irons in the hardware shops (including
Weller) that have tips shaped like screwdrivers are really only usable as
screwdrivers, if that.

If you're going to use a sponge to clean the tip teach the kid to
keep it damp, not soaking wet. The sudden cooling of a wet sponge will
cause hairline cracks in the iron plating and the tip will fail faster.
A dry sponge will smoke and stink up the room.

--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

 

[Chris Jones]

bruce varley wrote:

Hi, My nephew is 10, mad keen on electronics. What minimum age do people
think is appropriate for owning a soldering iron?

10 is plenty old enough if he has a responsible attitude. You'd better
point out to him also that it's important to keep the iron in a
non-flamable stand and to make sure it's switched off and unplugged when
not in use. I left mine plugged into a (switched-off) power adapter when I
was young and the iron was just lying on some old cardboard. Some silly
adult decided to plug something else into the power adapter and turned it
on - luckily it just charred the cardboard and the house didn't burn down.

Also get him a decent iron with a stand and sponge, that way he can learn
about the difficulties of soldering without being confused by the
difficulties of a crap iron. Get at least a second hand Weller TCP or at
the very minimum an Antex. The irons in the hardware shops (including
Weller) that have tips shaped like screwdrivers are really only usable as
screwdrivers, if that.

 

[Tim Polmear]

Ooo, sorry, missed this NG for a while.
I can't remember any of the settings but why not try
http://www.satsig.net/webramp-410i-manual.pdf
Now it might not be the exact same version but the info should be
enough to put you in the right direction. There is a section on using
the console port.

Good luck
Tim

On Tue, 7 Jun 2005 10:20:59 +0800, "Paul and Paula"
<paulandpaula@iprimus.com.au> wrote:

Hiya Tim, now just to find a manual! I hope some kind soul has one laying
around!

Can you remember what baud rate to use? I have tried the serial port, but
could not get it to work. Eventually I found the IP address by running port
scanning software (worked like a charm!!) but I cant do anything until I can
reset the *&%^$# password!!

Oh well, maybe Ill be lucky and get broadband sometime soon. Cant
understand it - Im in the middle of a city, but Telstra says Im too far away
from the exchange - go figure!

Anyhow, thanks for your thoughts

reagrds
Paul

"Tim Polmear" <polmear@wn.com.au> wrote in message
news:2r0m9196r7vl1cn2mbdi614dp9tot2s9p9@4ax.com...
It's been years since I even saw a Webramp. It shouldn't need
software, you connect via TCP/IP if you have the password (which you
don't). If it's the same model as the one we had, it should have a
serial in port you can connect to via a terminal program and a null
model cable. Of course that's no good if you don't have the manual to
figure out what commands to send it. From my recollection I had to
connect this way to reset it to factory default settings when I
stuffed something up- probably the password or IP configuration.

If you can find the manual or a list of connection settings and
commands you should be able to use the serial port back door.


On Sun, 29 May 2005 12:06:37 +0800, "Paul and Paula"
paulandpaula@iprimus.com.au> wrote:

Hi All, Im the "lucky" owner of a Banksia webramp M3 but without the
software. I need to reset the password but cant do it and Im hoping the
software will be able to reset the password.

Anyhow, Banksia was sold to another company who stopped supporting the
Webramp. I have searched the Internet and found that support for the
Webramp was reinstated so I emailed them, but no response, asking how to
reset the password.

Interestingly enough, there are a number of pins on the PCB but there are
no
details what they are for.

Any help will be welcome, thanks
Paul

 

[Tim Polmear]

On Wed, 01 Jun 2005 21:29:53 GMT, "Trevor Wilson"
<trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au> wrote:

**Indeed. For a PROPER science show, just watch Catalyst on ABC. The viewer
may even learn something.

Yes, but what was wrong with Quantum ((

 

[Tim Polmear]

I recently had a science class full of year 3's. I handed out the bar
magnets and in less than 30 seconds one of the littil darlin's had
crossed the room and slammed his magnet against the computer monitor
like he knew damn well what it would do. I was livid!!
Thank God it had a degauss circuit, so it survived unscathed.

On Thu, 02 Jun 2005 05:12:11 GMT, Donald B Keogh
<dbkeogh@bigpond.net.au> wrote:

Hi Caliban,

While assembling some 3-way loudspeaker enclosures I made the mistake
of leaning a front panel, complete with speakers, against the front of
my 68cm CRT TV. The result was a large more or less permanent blob of
colour right in the middle of the screen.

Presumable I'd made a good job of magnetizing the shadow mask.

My solution:

Take a 2 mH aircore inductor from the Bass-Midrange cross-over and
connect it to the secondary of a Scope soldering iron transformer (Can
anyone remember them?) via 1m of speaker cable. The ~4V resulted in
about 6.5A which the coil could take more or less permanently without
overheating.

Sweeping the coil back and forward across the screen a few times did
the degausing for me.

Cheers,

Don Keogh
Donald B Keogh

 

[Phil Allison]

"Tim Polmear"

I recently had a science class full of year 3's. I handed out the bar
magnets and in less than 30 seconds one of the littil darlin's had
crossed the room and slammed his magnet against the computer monitor
like he knew damn well what it would do.

** Clearly the young person concerned appreciated the likely effect of a
magnetic field on the path of an electron travelling at 1/2 the speed of
light and was keen to give all present a simple demonstration ;-)

I was livid!!

** I would have asked him/her to explain the visible results to the class
and then marked their answer out of 100.

Thank God it had a degauss circuit, so it survived unscathed.

** TVs would hardly be kid safe otherwise.




............. Phil