PRC as a amplifier in GPS question.

For such LCDs, is the display RAM usually implemented in the LCD panel
or the camera manufacturer implements that in his camera's circuit board?

These LCDs invariably do NOT have on-board controllers and RAM. You
need to drive it with an external video signal.

 

[David L. Jones]

JustCurEus wrote:

On Sat, 4 Jun 2005 7:57:54 -0400, JustCurEus wrote
(in message <0001HW.BEC70F820001C67D151EC050@newsgroups.comcast.net&gt:

Need April and May 2005 MIDI THEREMIN article issues from the Silicon Chip
Magazine

I am seeking a reprint, PDF or copy of the 'two-part' MIDI THEREMIN
construction project that appeared in the April 2005 and May 2005 issues of
Silicon Chip ( www.siliconchip.com.au/ )

Prefer it scanned from printed version or a PDF created from the online
version. (Since Silicon Chip DOES NOT offer online 'single issue' PDF's,
but
instead Silicon Chip makes you purchase a FULL YEAR of a web subscription
(that is NOT in PDF format) just to have access to two issues!!!!


In return, I can offer xchange any two or three articles from the online PDF
version of EPE magazine (Everyday Practical Electronics-British_
http://www.epemag.com/ _from July 2002 thru June 2005.

Please send eMail to me at: StevenThompson1960ATyahooDOTcom (and if U send
what I am looking for, let me know in what couple of articles you would like
from EPE.

THANKS!!

-------------------------------------------
Thanks for looking at my posting. Below is my email to Silicon Chip and
their response. I was only looking for the MIDI THEREMIN article copies for
information, as I believe that it most likely cannot be constructed by the
article 'cuz in most likelyhood it uses a PICmicro and I am sure that they do
not provide code in the magazine... at least EPEonline does not show it in
their magazine-although they do allow FTP download of source code.
again, thanks (USA)

Looks like you can download the HEX file for the chip here:
http://www.siliconchip.com.au/cms/attachments/show.html?year=2005&month=May

They don't always give the HEX file or source code though, depends on
who developed the project and if they want to keep copyright.

Dave

 

Yes, we've introduced the Encore into some of our new products mainly
because we were very familiar with the Z8 otp products and it was an
easier transition from existing assembler programs. I do like being
able to directly address the complete register file on the Z8 in
assembler but this is not an issue once writing in C.
Looking back I wish we had changed to Atmel instead, it's got a lot of
community support (avrfreaks), free C compiler and wide supply voltage
range. Zilog technical support is no good and I hate trying to
interface from 3.3 volts all the time. I'm now using Atmel for my own
projects but the boss is reluctant to "introduce two technologies into
the place".
Dean

 

[linnix]

larwe@larwe.com wrote:

For such LCDs, is the display RAM usually implemented in the LCD panel
or the camera manufacturer implements that in his camera's circuit board?

These LCDs invariably do NOT have on-board controllers and RAM. You
need to drive it with an external video signal.

If it's less than 9 pins, probably VGA interface.

If it's more than 9 pins, probably 12 or 16 bits Digital + H & V sync,
etc.

First step is to check if the signals are digital or analog.

 

[Mark Harriss]

bodgy wrote:

I bought this kit, I found on my laptop that the USB
programmer/debugger wouldn't work (although recognised) on my PCMIA 4
port USB2.0 hub.

Bung it into a normal 1.1 hub on the motherboard and it all worked.

The jumpers (on mine) were in the correct position for the led demo,
and the uP was preprogrammed with it.

What they don't say is that to use the debugger/programmer the debug
jumper must be in position.

Colin

Thanks Colin,
I'm checking out the Yahoo groups now and it seems
to be a very common problem: some people have been able to get it
to work by plugging in the USB cable first then the power cable.

 

[Michael C]

"timbo" <tim.conlan@nospam-ansonicit.com.au> wrote in message
news:d889bl$tp6$1@aviendha.twibble.org...

no one interested?

ah well, looks like i've got a load to the tip then

Phone PCs for kids, they will pick it up from you. It would be a pity to
waste some of that stuff.

Michael

 

[timbo]

On 2005-06-07, timbo <tim.conlan@nospam-ansonicit.com.au> wrote:

would like to get rid of some junk - most of it works ok:

HP jaserjet 4SI x1 works but is failing to feed paper sometimes
HP laserjet IIIP x1 worn out, parts only
Brother HL-1240 x1 need drum unit
Kyocera FS-1000 x1 needs drum unit
NEC xl-workmate dumb terminal x3 untested
Link MC5 dumb terminal x1 untestedd

Hyundai 15" SVGA monitors x6 these all work ok.

anybody? make me an offer, or will trade for beer. I'm in warrnambool, vic,
i can probably freight some of the gear, but the LJ4SI is huge..
prefer local pickup though.

shed's getting too full of junk...

also got a motorola purc5000 UHF repeater (25W) - $500
35MHz Diplexer - anyone?

email me or reply here if you're interested..
(remove nospam-)

no one interested?

ah well, looks like i've got a load to the tip then

cheers,

timbo.

--

http://www.zydegators.com
http://www.zydegators.com/basspics

 

[Mark Harriss]

Bob Parker wrote:

Geez, they sure don't make it easy, do they? Zilog's desperately
trying to claw back market share, and this kind of needless problem is
going to lose them lots of potential customers.
Good luck with sorting through the mess. It'll be interesting to
get your thoughts about the Encore once you can actually use the
thing.

Regards
Bob

I fixed the problem!!! : I switched to Atmel instead.

 

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers


pcman wrote:

ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want 200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the standard gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and have a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing circuits i
just dont know where to start

 

[Alex Gibson]

"Mark Harriss" <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote in message
news:42a779bf$0$272$61c65585@uq-127creek-reader-03.brisbane.pipenetworks.com.au...

David L. Jones wrote:

Atmels certainly ain't the ducks guts either.

You can easily lock up their ISP port making the chip useless in any
serial programmer. Just what you need when you have a part soldered
onto the board - real nasty.
Their ATtiny26 device wasn't compatible with their own development
system either - needed modifications, and wasn't adequately documented.


I certainly had a very unpleasant introduction to Atmels.

Dave

I quite like the AVR's and Atmel 8051 chips.
The new with usb is good AT89C5131 32KB , single cycle
cheaper to get one of the futurlec.com.au boards
http://www.futurlec.com/USBDevBoard.shtml

Sounds like I was spoilt with Motorola micros: ocassionally
you might get a corrupt config register but that's easily fixed.
All you had to do was hook up power, a crystal and serial and they
were ready to program.

Pics have plenty of docs these days.
The 18f's with usb are dam handy. 18f4550

The moto / freescale 56f807 and 56fxxx dsp hybrids are pretty well docmented
just a pity that code warrior is such a p.o.s

The new Philips arm7 chips lpc2xxx are very nice
but the docs are fairly light on.

I recieved one of the nice keil mcp2130 boards
from the current circuit cellar contest for the lpc2138.
http://www.jandspromotions.com/philips2005/

http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/pip/LPC2132FBD64.html
512KB flash , 32KB ram , 60MHz , 8x 10bitADC , 6x pwm
2x usart , spi ,2x i2c, ssp

programmable via serial bootloader or jtag

http://www.semiconductors.philips.com/markets/mms/products/microcontrollers/key_solutions/32bit/index.html

setting up arm-gcc with eclipse - free ide and compiler
http://www.newmicros.com/download/appnotes/ARM/TiniARM_Dev_Eclipse.pdf

Cheapest dev board is from www.newmicros.com US$64 for lpc2132
and the olimex boards. www.sparkfun.com

Adilam is the local distributor for the lpc chips www.adilam.com.au

lpc2138 is around $13 - 15 in small quantities
lpc2106 $12 - 14 in small quantities

lpc210x chips don't have code protection

lpc chips with usb are supposedly comming Q3 2005.
Also supposed to be one with onchip ethernet as well.

Spending more and more time with fpgas and dsp chips lately.
Xilinx edk(embedded development kit)

Alex

 

[Mark Harriss]

David L. Jones wrote:

Atmels certainly ain't the ducks guts either.

You can easily lock up their ISP port making the chip useless in any
serial programmer. Just what you need when you have a part soldered
onto the board - real nasty.
Their ATtiny26 device wasn't compatible with their own development
system either - needed modifications, and wasn't adequately documented.


I certainly had a very unpleasant introduction to Atmels.

Dave

Sounds like I was spoilt with Motorola micros: ocassionally
you might get a corrupt config register but that's easily fixed.
All you had to do was hook up power, a crystal and serial and they
were ready to program.

 

[quietguy]

Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just install a switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to the lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the lpg sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close, but that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough gauge for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than spending $200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want 200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the standard gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and have a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing circuits i
just dont know where to start

 

[Ken Taylor]

And put 360Ohms across the meter to bring the full-scale resistance correct.
You could be pedantic and put it across the series resistor as well, but
it's close enough either way.

Ken

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:42A8C550.77053CED@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...

Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just install a
switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to the lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the lpg
sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close, but
that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough gauge
for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than spending
$200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want
200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said
stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the standard
gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and have a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing
circuits i
just dont know where to start

 

[Alan]

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:09:58 +1200, "Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz>
wrote:

And don't forget a new scale on the guage as the sender operation is
now reversed (ie fuel giage says full when it is actually empty!)

Alan

And put 360Ohms across the meter to bring the full-scale resistance correct.
You could be pedantic and put it across the series resistor as well, but
it's close enough either way.

Ken

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:42A8C550.77053CED@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just install a
switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to the lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the lpg
sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close, but
that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough gauge
for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than spending
$200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want
200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said
stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the standard
gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and have a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing
circuits i
just dont know where to start

--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jenal Communications
Manufacturers and Suppliers of HF Selcall
P O Box 1108, Morley, Western Australia
Tel: +61 8 9370 5533 Fax +61 8 9467 6146
Web Site: http://www.jenal.com
Contact: http://www.jenal.com/?p=1
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

[Ken Taylor]

Yes, David did mention that. Mind you, it'd be a conversation piece - "Hey
look, my fuel economy is so good I generate fuel when driving!".

Cheers.

Ken

"Alan" <me@somewhere.com.au.invalid> wrote in message
news:bgoha1thmscf0le6sl6udgbqoqs7oo41ts@4ax.com...

On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:09:58 +1200, "Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz
wrote:

And don't forget a new scale on the guage as the sender operation is
now reversed (ie fuel giage says full when it is actually empty!)

Alan


And put 360Ohms across the meter to bring the full-scale resistance
correct.
You could be pedantic and put it across the series resistor as well, but
it's close enough either way.

Ken

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:42A8C550.77053CED@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just install a
switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to the
lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the lpg
sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close, but
that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you
just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough
gauge
for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of
fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than spending
$200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want
200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said
stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the standard
gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and have
a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing
circuits i
just dont know where to start



--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jenal Communications
Manufacturers and Suppliers of HF Selcall
P O Box 1108, Morley, Western Australia
Tel: +61 8 9370 5533 Fax +61 8 9467 6146
Web Site: http://www.jenal.com
Contact: http://www.jenal.com/?p=1
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

[FruitLoop]

Just put a sticker on the guage to read empty as full and full as empty .

European like the blinkers / wiper washer


"Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:h07qe.6287$U4.906505@news.xtra.co.nz...

Yes, David did mention that. Mind you, it'd be a conversation piece - "Hey
look, my fuel economy is so good I generate fuel when driving!".

Cheers.

Ken

"Alan" <me@somewhere.com.au.invalid> wrote in message
news:bgoha1thmscf0le6sl6udgbqoqs7oo41ts@4ax.com...
On Fri, 10 Jun 2005 11:09:58 +1200, "Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz
wrote:

And don't forget a new scale on the guage as the sender operation is
now reversed (ie fuel giage says full when it is actually empty!)

Alan


And put 360Ohms across the meter to bring the full-scale resistance
correct.
You could be pedantic and put it across the series resistor as well, but
it's close enough either way.

Ken

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote
in
message
news:42A8C550.77053CED@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just install
a
switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to the
lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the lpg
sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close, but
that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you
just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough
gauge
for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of
fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than
spending
$200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want
200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said
stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the
standard
gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and
have
a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing
circuits i
just dont know where to start



--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Jenal Communications
Manufacturers and Suppliers of HF Selcall
P O Box 1108, Morley, Western Australia
Tel: +61 8 9370 5533 Fax +61 8 9467 6146
Web Site: http://www.jenal.com
Contact: http://www.jenal.com/?p=1
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 

[Paul and Paula]

Hi Alan, did you get my email? What bits are if interest to you? If you
want to part with a LJ2 or 3 Id be interested too as I need 3 stepper
motors.

cheers
Paul

"Alan Rutlidge iinet.net.au>" <rutlidge@<NO_SPAM> wrote in message
news:42a511f9$0$565$5a62ac22@per-qv1-newsreader-01.iinet.net.au...

"Paul and Paula" <paulandpaula@iprimus.com.au> wrote in message
news:42a5053c$1_1@news.iprimus.com.au...
Hi all, I have stripped a laserjet II and III to get the stepper motors
and a few
other bits. Some of the rollers have gone squishy (sticky) (how does one
stop this)?

Does anyone want any of the remaining parts, free? Ill probably tip or
recycle the rest if nobody has a need for them. You pay mail or pickup
from
me in Perth.

cheers
Paul




Hi Paul,

Where in Perth? If you aren't that far away What's left may be useful in
getting one of my LJIIIs going again.

Cheers,
Alan

 

[pcman]

i musnt have been thinking straight when i typed the message
i took my dash apart and repainted the gauge so it looks correct then put a
18 ohm resistor inline ite better than having no gauge and seems pretty
acurate sofar

thanks for the help guys i might put a 360ohm in aswell see if that makes it
better


"Ken Taylor" <ken123@xtra.co.nz> wrote in message
news:b%3qe.6250$U4.903623@news.xtra.co.nz...

And put 360Ohms across the meter to bring the full-scale resistance
correct.
You could be pedantic and put it across the series resistor as well, but
it's close enough either way.

Ken

"quietguy" <quietguy@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com> wrote in
message
news:42A8C550.77053CED@REMOVE-TO-REPLYconfidential-counselling.com...
Maybe I am dreaming but the solution seems simple to me - just install a
switch
that changes the input to the fuel gauge from the petrol sender to the
lpg
sender, BUT include a 18 ohm (or so) resister in the lead from the lpg
sender.

Note that the full to empty range of both senders is fairly close, but
that the
lpg sender empty is 0 whereas the petrol empty is 17ohms. So if you
just
compensate for this initial resistance you should have a near enough
gauge
for
your lpg. Remembering that fuel gauges only provide a rough idea of
fuel
capacity, this should be near enough and certainly better than spending
$200 for
???

David

fred.kroft@gmail.com wrote:

I can't think of a passive design that will do this
(off the top of my head). there could be one ??

an easy way of doing it is using an inverting amplifer
design. but you would have to work with voltage/current
references not resistances. that's easy to do, but you
need to find out a little bit more about the electrical
characteristics of the fuel meter.

here is one way i would do it (basic overview)--

- i would supply the tank a constant current, say with
a current mirror (you can configure an LM317 as a constant
current source). that would give you a resistance
to voltage conversion.

- feed this voltage into an inverting opamp configuration.
This will produce an inverted voltage.

- What you do with the output voltage (or current) depends
on how the fuel meter guage works. you might find that the
meter is measuring current flow for example. if so, then
you can configure the opamp to supply a given current.

me personally, if you are not prepared for a few days
of analysis, building, testing etc.. then i would just
pay the 200 moola. alot of time and energy goes into
designing something that reliable and ruggled.
$200 sounds like a cheaper opinion.

i would try to build it though, it is sounds like a fun
project

cheers

pcman wrote:
ok ive got a fj40 landcruiser thats now on straight lpg they want
200bux for
the converter to use the standard gauge with the lpg tank so i said
stuff
that

anyway the lpg sender is 0 ohm empty and 90 ohm full and the standard
gauge
is 120ohm empty and 17 ohm full

so what im wanting is a simple circuit so i can hook them up and have
a
proper gauge

i can build circuit boards and stuff im just no good ad designing
circuits i
just dont know where to start

 

[Clockmeister]

"Rod Speed" <rod_speed@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3gmgpqFda992U1@individual.net...

Some gutless fuckwit car crasher desperately cowering behind
Clockmeister <no-one@nowhere.com> desperately attempted
to bullshit its way out of its predicament in message
news:42a39af8@duster.adelaide.on.net...
and fooled absolutely no one at all, as always.

No surprise that it only ever gets to crash cars.

You should concentrate on getting the basic stuff right first, you can start
with ohms law.

 

[Bob Parker]

G'day Mark,
That's not so great. One of my mates who also bought one of the
Zilog XP boards said he thought the USB cable was up to the 2.0
standard. Looks like he's in for a bit of a surprise.
I might see if I can get mine doing something this long weekend,
even if it's only the sample LED flashing code.

Regards
Bob


Mark Harriss <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote:

Hi Bob: I got it working eventually: trouble is it's not working on
my computer. It will work on a USB 1.1 computer but not a modern USB
2.0 computer- it's as simple as that, the driver or the smartcable
has an incompatibilty with the latest USB standard.

Regards
Mark Harriss