PC Smoke

[Ian Field]

<jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:5d0b87f1-f986-4dfb-a5dc-88fd429ba292@googlegroups.com...

"Do not try
to turn it on again. "

Actually if he really SAW smoke that filled the room he has nothing to
lose. Now if he only smelled smoke that is a different story. But once it
comes billowing out of there, don't worry about it.

He said it did not set off the smoke detectors...

Hmm. I think it would if he really saw a roomful of smoke.

The ionisation type detect smoke particulates, the steam from a venting
electrolytic may not trigger it.

The optical smoke detectors respond to anything that stops the IR beam
reaching the other device in the sensor.

 

[Ian Field]

<jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ba5c6639-248d-43df-ae47-44afce8672bd@googlegroups.com...

"and then soon
after a resistor exploded. It overloaded all components,
killing the RAM, hard disk, modem, CPU. "

Exploded resistors do not overload other components, at least not in
something like this. What happened is all the damage happened at once.

Some cheaper WW resistors are wound on a glass rod instead of ceramic -
glass becomes electrically conductive at red heat.

 

[Andy]

You are aware that first alert is owned by kiddie now right?
they put out units under each name and with varying prices.
just like most THINK FIREX is junk WRONG its also owned by kiddie.
As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power supply
and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it from the
heat it created it was a nice smoky mess


--
AL'S COMPUTERS
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:snplib524emv502897ngos37guv2an8dtj@4ax.com...

On Thu, 5 May 2016 01:57:07 -0400, "Andy" <N@n.com> wrote:

Interesting facts wrong but its ok

Nice diplomacy, but they're either facts, or they're wrong. Can't
have both.

most good smoke detectors like first alert the only brand i use i have the
combo detector both ionization and photoelectric hard wired with battery
back up unit.

The combo units are best. The photoelectric detectors are faster but
ionization detectors are more sensitive. The combination also
decreases false alarms as a real fire will trigger both, but chemical
and condensation problems will only trigger one or the other.

But even my battery only ionization unit that is directly over the pc went
off once when a test power supply blew a resistor and the smoke set it off
before i could even get to the window to open it to vent the smoke out of
the room

Egads. How much smoke did this resistor generate? What physical size
resistor? When I get a resistor too hot, it usually makes a small
puff of smoke before it blows. Unless it were wrapped in an oily rag
or the resistor was unusually large, there's not enough material in a
small ( <1/4 watt) resistor to produce much smoke.

how fast they react ALL DEPENDS on 2 Things AGE OF UNIT all units should
be
replaced EVERY 10 YEARS. in fact in my state and city it's a code
requirement.

Yep. However, the problem was not delay time or sensitivity. It was
that many battery powered smoke alarms were just sitting there with
dead batteries. Replacing the battery once per year was considered a
major imposition to many homeowners. To solve that problem, the
manufacturers were required to install use a non-replaceable Lithium
battery, in trade for requiring the homeowner to buy all new battery
operated smoke detectors.

Second is brand of unit if you get the cheap 8 dollar one at the dollar
store yes it wont react as good as the brand name first alert that costs
you
20 or more dollars.
that is a proven fact.

Well, I prefer Kidde brand to First Alert. The main reason is that I
wanted a photoelectric detector with built in carbon monoxide
detection ability. I also wanted something that would not false on
kitchen cooking and my wood burning stove. I picked the Kidde Model
P3010K-CO ($40) for the house and shop:
http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/products/fire-safety/smoke-alarms/p3010k-co/
Ask me in about 8 years and I'll let you know how well they work. I
tested one with a galvanized pail full of newspapers. About 4 minutes
for the alarm to sound. So far, no falsing from normal cooking or the
woodburner. However, when I accidentally set fire to a yam in the
microwave, it set off the alarm in about 1 minute after I removed it
from the oven:
http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/burned-yam.html
In both cases, the house was full of smoke before the alarm finally
went off.

You might be interested in these stories. The first is from 2007 and
is very much out of date. Yet many people still have similar old
smoke alarms. Newer alarms are allegedly faster to respond:
"Deadly Delay"
http://www.wthr.com/global/Story.asp?s=6552929
Notice that the fastest response was 16 minutes. See Part 2 at:
http://www.wthr.com/global/Story.asp?s=6554435
Test results
Test #1
First Alert dual sensor 18:00
First Alert photoelectric 23:38
First Alert ionization 33:45

Kidde ionization 27:16
Kidde dual sensor 28:50
Kidde photoelectric 29:30

Test #2
First Alert photoelectric 16:21
First Alert dual sensor 16:38
First Alert ionization 42:10

Kidde photoelectric 33:30
Kidde dual sensor 34:30
Kidde ionization 38:39

In 2012, the station continued the smoke detector campaign and
testing:
http://whnt.com/2012/07/16/smoke-detector-fail-a-taking-action-investigation/
The final result AFTER smoke was present:
Ionization: 17:00 minutes
Photoelectric: 2:48 seconds
Much better, methinks.

But the 8 dollar one will go off if you boil water on the stove the better
unit wont



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

The other day an UNUSED! SATA connector in my desktop computer >shorted out
at the free end filling the room with smoke and shutting down the >computer.

You can do a Google image search for "burned SATA connector" and see >the
type of damage I had.

Fairly common problem, apparently."

That is progress.

 

[Mark Zacharias]

"Andy" <N@n.com> wrote in message
newsSdnUP2abKUpbHKnZ2dnUU7-R3NnZ2d@earthlink.com...

You are aware that first alert is owned by kiddie now right?
they put out units under each name and with varying prices.
just like most THINK FIREX is junk WRONG its also owned by kiddie.
As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power
supply and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it
from the heat it created it was a nice smoky mess

<snip>

The other day an UNUSED! SATA connector in my desktop computer shorted out
at the free end filling the room with smoke and shutting down the computer.

You can do a Google image search for "burned SATA connector" and see the
type of damage I had.

Fairly common problem, apparently.


Mark Z.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Fri, 6 May 2016 02:21:36 -0400, "Andy" <N@n.com> wrote:

>You are aware that first alert is owned by kiddie now right?

No, I wasn't aware of that. Looking at the Wikipedia page, First
Alert seems to be owned by Jarden Branded Consumables.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Alert>
No mention of Kidde.

The Kidde page shows that they're part of UTC (United Technologies
Corporation) as UTC Fire & Security. No mention of First Alert.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kidde>

I don't have time right now to chase down the details, but it seems to
me that they're seperate and unrelated companies. Are you sure?

they put out units under each name and with varying prices.
just like most THINK FIREX is junk WRONG its also owned by kiddie.

Yep. Firex is part of Kiddie:
<http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/about/Firex/>
Looks like they're recommending total replacent of anything labeled
Firex.

As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power supply
and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it from the
heat it created it was a nice smoky mess

Ok, that's different. Big power can generate plenty of smoke. I
would expect a smoke alarm to respond fairly quickly to a "nice smoky
mess". You also won't need a vinyl hose "sniffer" to find the source.
Just look for the crater when the smoke clears.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Ian Field]

<jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:901064af-a030-40c6-b8b2-b3fc441c0f61@googlegroups.com...

"Some cheaper WW resistors are wound on a glass rod instead of >ceramic -
glass becomes electrically conductive at red heat. "

And what makes them red hot ?

Power dissipation. Too much of it caused by too much voltage across it
which causes too much current to flow which causes too much wattage to
need to dissipate which raises the temperature.

Resistors do not lower in value unless abused. Even then, more than half
the time they open up.

Most resistor types go high when overheated which limits the potential for
damage.

Glass cored resistors cause an increase in current and consequently the
potential for damage.

 

[Andy]

As far as i know unless it was sold again first alert is owned or WAS OWNED
by kiddie

--
AL'S COMPUTERS
"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:mhapibdmjsk0egccum8vm5pbat1915a1ol@4ax.com...

On Fri, 6 May 2016 02:21:36 -0400, "Andy" <N@n.com> wrote:

You are aware that first alert is owned by kiddie now right?

No, I wasn't aware of that. Looking at the Wikipedia page, First
Alert seems to be owned by Jarden Branded Consumables.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Alert
No mention of Kidde.

The Kidde page shows that they're part of UTC (United Technologies
Corporation) as UTC Fire & Security. No mention of First Alert.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kidde

I don't have time right now to chase down the details, but it seems to
me that they're seperate and unrelated companies. Are you sure?

they put out units under each name and with varying prices.
just like most THINK FIREX is junk WRONG its also owned by kiddie.

Yep. Firex is part of Kiddie:
http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/about/Firex/
Looks like they're recommending total replacent of anything labeled
Firex.

As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power
supply
and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it from
the
heat it created it was a nice smoky mess

Ok, that's different. Big power can generate plenty of smoke. I
would expect a smoke alarm to respond fairly quickly to a "nice smoky
mess". You also won't need a vinyl hose "sniffer" to find the source.
Just look for the crater when the smoke clears.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Andy]

Good idea will give me something to do later


--
AL'S COMPUTERS
"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:A8ZWy.8968$l93.1390@fx42.iad...

"Andy" <N@n.com> wrote in message
newsSdnUP2abKUpbHKnZ2dnUU7-R3NnZ2d@earthlink.com...
You are aware that first alert is owned by kiddie now right?
they put out units under each name and with varying prices.
just like most THINK FIREX is junk WRONG its also owned by kiddie.
As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power
supply and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it
from the heat it created it was a nice smoky mess



snip

The other day an UNUSED! SATA connector in my desktop computer shorted
out at the free end filling the room with smoke and shutting down the
computer.

You can do a Google image search for "burned SATA connector" and see the
type of damage I had.

Fairly common problem, apparently.


Mark Z.

 

"Glass cored resistors cause an increase in current and consequently >the
potential for damage"

I remember a video on the internet about having some "fun" with a microwave.. Normally you put glass in a microwave it is unaffected. Well they took a torch to it and heated it up first and then it was definitely affected by microwaves. Before that I never knew glass becomes conductive at high temperatures.

 

[Tim R]

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 3:24:00 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:

The alumina ceramic on a spark plug is also lossy enough to get red hot.

I believe you, but............how do you know? It's darned hard to get the ceramic off the steel part before I put it in the microwave.

 

[Ian Field]

<jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:170ce20b-a17f-498b-bb5f-2de133bd94cd@googlegroups.com...

"Glass cored resistors cause an increase in current and consequently >the
potential for damage"

I remember a video on the internet about having some "fun" with a
microwave. Normally you put glass in a microwave it is unaffected. Well
they took a torch to it and heated it up first and then it was definitely
affected by microwaves. Before that I never knew glass becomes conductive
at high temperatures.

Most types of glass are lossy enough at microwave to not need any such
preparation.

Once I put a TV valve (tube) in the microwave, the glass glowed red and
became plastic, it wrapped around the internal structure like cling film.

My coffee mug is glass - I have to tuck the handle into a corner when I heat
a cup of water, otherwise the handle gets hot and burns my hand.

The alumina ceramic on a spark plug is also lossy enough to get red hot.

 

[Ian Field]

"Tim R" <timothy42b@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1c6d4622-6924-4192-9167-768a8d0f46de@googlegroups.com...

On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 3:24:00 PM UTC-4, Ian Field wrote:


The alumina ceramic on a spark plug is also lossy enough to get red hot.

I believe you, but............how do you know? It's darned hard to get
the ceramic off the steel part before I put it in the microwave.

I was cleaning the plugs - they wouldn't have been much use if I'd removed
the metal bit.

If you leave a plug overnight in an industrial strength ultrasonic cleaner,
it loosens the compacted powder seal - put it in an engine and the seal will
blow out within a mile.

If I want the metal shell to make a 2-stroke TDC measure, I just grind off
the rolled down lip and dig the seal out with a small screwdriver.