A
Andy Bennet
Guest
On 13/10/2019 03:23, Sylvia Else wrote:
Gallows bracket.
Gallows bracket.
N
news18
Guest
On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 16:21:04 +1100, felix wrote:
That would work for tension, but not compression. The tubular nature
gives it conpression strenth.
That would work for tension, but not compression. The tubular nature
gives it conpression strenth.
N
news18
Guest
On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 13:23:19 +1100, Sylvia Else wrote:
I'd call it an angle bracket but I'd expect it hard to buy a pre-made
version as there are so many variables.
What is the difficutly with making one in steel?
It looks like a simple vice clamp construction
Perhaps a blow torch might be needed to warm the steel to make it bend/
curve better rather than "tear" as the aluminium is doing.
I'd call it an angle bracket but I'd expect it hard to buy a pre-made
version as there are so many variables.
What is the difficutly with making one in steel?
It looks like a simple vice clamp construction
Perhaps a blow torch might be needed to warm the steel to make it bend/
curve better rather than "tear" as the aluminium is doing.
S
Sylvia Else
Guest
On 13/10/2019 1:23 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
OK, thanks guys.
I think I'll try the annealing approach first with aluminium. If it
breaks again, I suppose I'll have to have go at the same method but with
steel.
Sylvia.
OK, thanks guys.
I think I'll try the annealing approach first with aluminium. If it
breaks again, I suppose I'll have to have go at the same method but with
steel.
Sylvia.
N
Noddy
Guest
On 13/10/2019 10:59 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
Don't waste your time.
Whoever suggested annealing it is clueless as annealing aluminium is a
very complex process compared to other metals such as steel or copper,
and unless you know what type of aluminium you're using and what
temperature to heat it to then you're going to achieve absolutely nothing.
The problem, as mentioned previously, is that you're using the wrong
material for the device you're making. Aluminium tube does *not* like to
be crushed and bent as you're doing, and no amount of "home annealing"
will help you as aluminium needs to be heated to near melting point to
achieve any kind of pliability. Quite simply, it is far to brittle a
material to do with what you're looking to do, and all you'll manage to
make is something that will fail like it already has.
You'll get far better results using thin wall steel tube while will be
just as easy to form and bend and it can be done cold to the point you
have in the picture without hurting it. Better yet get some 30x5 flat
bar cut to length, bent and drilled as required and your problems will
be solved forever.
Don't listen to me thought. Waste shitloads of time and money on
something that can be fixed for 10 bucks worth of steel from Bunnings
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
Don't waste your time.
Whoever suggested annealing it is clueless as annealing aluminium is a
very complex process compared to other metals such as steel or copper,
and unless you know what type of aluminium you're using and what
temperature to heat it to then you're going to achieve absolutely nothing.
The problem, as mentioned previously, is that you're using the wrong
material for the device you're making. Aluminium tube does *not* like to
be crushed and bent as you're doing, and no amount of "home annealing"
will help you as aluminium needs to be heated to near melting point to
achieve any kind of pliability. Quite simply, it is far to brittle a
material to do with what you're looking to do, and all you'll manage to
make is something that will fail like it already has.
You'll get far better results using thin wall steel tube while will be
just as easy to form and bend and it can be done cold to the point you
have in the picture without hurting it. Better yet get some 30x5 flat
bar cut to length, bent and drilled as required and your problems will
be solved forever.
Don't listen to me thought. Waste shitloads of time and money on
something that can be fixed for 10 bucks worth of steel from Bunnings
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
N
Noddy
Guest
On 14/10/2019 7:03 am, Tom Del Rosso wrote:
Ordinary electrical conduit is generally Polyvinyl Chloride, or PVC.
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
Ordinary electrical conduit is generally Polyvinyl Chloride, or PVC.
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
N
Noddy
Guest
On 14/10/2019 7:02 am, Trevor Wilson wrote:
She's been told, and by a few people now. But watch her waste an
extraordinary amount of time and effort to find out why aluminium won't
work.
Someone mentioned that she was English. That figures
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
She's been told, and by a few people now. But watch her waste an
extraordinary amount of time and effort to find out why aluminium won't
work.
Someone mentioned that she was English. That figures
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
T
Tom Del Rosso
Guest
Sylvia Else wrote:
Ordinary electrical conduit is steel.
Ordinary electrical conduit is steel.
T
Trevor Wilson
Guest
On 13/10/2019 10:59 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
**Aluminium is a very bad choice. Use steel.
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
--
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**Aluminium is a very bad choice. Use steel.
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
--
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N
Noddy
Guest
On 14/10/2019 8:12 am, Trevor Wilson wrote:
There's nothing wrong with using Aluminium as a material, as long as
you're prepared to stay within it's working limits which she clearly
isn't. This is especially so with extruded aluminium like she's using,
as the extrusion process makes it extremely brittle and her crushing and
bending process is pushing it *way* past it's mechanical limits that no
amount of annealing will ever help.
It's a great material if you want something light, or want to anodise it
to be decorative, but it's totally unsuitable for what she's trying to do.
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
On 14/10/2019 7:36 am, Noddy wrote:
On 14/10/2019 7:02 am, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 13/10/2019 10:59 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
I think I'll try the annealing approach first with aluminium. If it
breaks again, I suppose I'll have to have go at the same method but
with steel.
Sylvia.
**Aluminium is a very bad choice. Use steel.
She's been told, and by a few people now. But watch her waste an
extraordinary amount of time and effort to find out why aluminium
won't work.
Someone mentioned that she was English. That figures
**Yep. When I bought my first bicycle for use in the bush, I considered
aluminium. After some research, I realised that chrome-moly (steel) was
a far better choice. Aluminum bikes WILL break under such use whereas
steel won't. As a bonus, the chrome-moly steel bike was around the same
mass as the aluminium ones. My new bike is all aluminium and reasonably
high tech (I only ride on the road or paths now), by the old chrome-moly
bike is still going well. The new bike is only 500g lighter than the
steel one.
There's nothing wrong with using Aluminium as a material, as long as
you're prepared to stay within it's working limits which she clearly
isn't. This is especially so with extruded aluminium like she's using,
as the extrusion process makes it extremely brittle and her crushing and
bending process is pushing it *way* past it's mechanical limits that no
amount of annealing will ever help.
It's a great material if you want something light, or want to anodise it
to be decorative, but it's totally unsuitable for what she's trying to do.
--
--
--
Regards,
Noddy.
T
Trevor Wilson
Guest
On 14/10/2019 7:36 am, Noddy wrote:
**Yep. When I bought my first bicycle for use in the bush, I considered
aluminium. After some research, I realised that chrome-moly (steel) was
a far better choice. Aluminum bikes WILL break under such use whereas
steel won't. As a bonus, the chrome-moly steel bike was around the same
mass as the aluminium ones. My new bike is all aluminium and reasonably
high tech (I only ride on the road or paths now), by the old chrome-moly
bike is still going well. The new bike is only 500g lighter than the
steel one.
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
On 14/10/2019 7:02 am, Trevor Wilson wrote:
On 13/10/2019 10:59 pm, Sylvia Else wrote:
I think I'll try the annealing approach first with aluminium. If it
breaks again, I suppose I'll have to have go at the same method but
with steel.
Sylvia.
**Aluminium is a very bad choice. Use steel.
She's been told, and by a few people now. But watch her waste an
extraordinary amount of time and effort to find out why aluminium won't
work.
Someone mentioned that she was English. That figures
**Yep. When I bought my first bicycle for use in the bush, I considered
aluminium. After some research, I realised that chrome-moly (steel) was
a far better choice. Aluminum bikes WILL break under such use whereas
steel won't. As a bonus, the chrome-moly steel bike was around the same
mass as the aluminium ones. My new bike is all aluminium and reasonably
high tech (I only ride on the road or paths now), by the old chrome-moly
bike is still going well. The new bike is only 500g lighter than the
steel one.
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
D
Daryl
Guest
On 14/10/19 7:03 am, Tom Del Rosso wrote:
Maybe in the dim dark past, these days its plastic.
--
Daryl
It is?
Maybe in the dim dark past, these days its plastic.
--
Daryl
X
Xeno
Guest
On 14/10/19 7:36 am, Noddy wrote:
Odd! Aluminium is used in many places where *steel* once held sway. Take
Daryl's Benz as a perfect example. The suspension control arms are
likely to be aluminium (forged or cast) and will be *as strong* as their
previous pressed steel units. The advantage will be their much lighter
weight which, in a suspension system, means reduced *unsprung weight*
and better handling. As always, the tradeoff is material thickness but
it is possible to achieve greater strength with reduced weight.
The perfect example, a W204 Benz lower control arm with integrated ball
joint.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lTkAAOSwaepb5RsL/s-l640.png
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
Odd! Aluminium is used in many places where *steel* once held sway. Take
Daryl's Benz as a perfect example. The suspension control arms are
likely to be aluminium (forged or cast) and will be *as strong* as their
previous pressed steel units. The advantage will be their much lighter
weight which, in a suspension system, means reduced *unsprung weight*
and better handling. As always, the tradeoff is material thickness but
it is possible to achieve greater strength with reduced weight.
The perfect example, a W204 Benz lower control arm with integrated ball
joint.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lTkAAOSwaepb5RsL/s-l640.png
Someone mentioned that she was English. That figures
Can't keep the toxicity out of the discussion, can you?
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
X
Xeno
Guest
On 14/10/19 7:03 am, Tom Del Rosso wrote:
split rolled steel conduit.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
Not these days but it wasn't suitable for the task anyway as it was
split rolled steel conduit.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
L
Lasse Langwadt Christense
Guest
søndag den 13. oktober 2019 kl. 22.02.16 UTC+2 skrev Trevor Wilson:
aluminium will be fine if it is the right type
aluminium will be fine if it is the right type
Guest
On Sun, 13 Oct 2019 19:47:38 -0400, "Tom Del Rosso"
<fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com> wrote:
Believe it or not, there is life West of the Hudson. It's New York
that's half a century behind the times.
<fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com> wrote:
Believe it or not, there is life West of the Hudson. It's New York
that's half a century behind the times.
X
Xeno
Guest
On 14/10/19 10:47 am, Tom Del Rosso wrote:
Different countries, different rules. Been the norm here in *housing*
for decades.
The rolled type formerly used in housing here was open seamed, the
rolled ends coming together but not welded. I haven't seen it in use for
decades now.
A mate works as a *hazardous area gaseous environment* inspector in the
petroleum industry and they use threaded steel conduit exclusively with
all connectors being gas sealed along with all junction boxes,
instrument cabinets and the like. All electrical equipment must be
isolated from the atmosphere due to the potential presence of flammable
gases. Everything electrical is sealed up tight to isolate sparks from
the general environment.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
Different countries, different rules. Been the norm here in *housing*
for decades.
The rolled type formerly used in housing here was open seamed, the
rolled ends coming together but not welded. I haven't seen it in use for
decades now.
A mate works as a *hazardous area gaseous environment* inspector in the
petroleum industry and they use threaded steel conduit exclusively with
all connectors being gas sealed along with all junction boxes,
instrument cabinets and the like. All electrical equipment must be
isolated from the atmosphere due to the potential presence of flammable
gases. Everything electrical is sealed up tight to isolate sparks from
the general environment.
--
Xeno
Nothing astonishes Noddy so much as common sense and plain dealing.
(with apologies to Ralph Waldo Emerson)
T
Tom Del Rosso
Guest
Xeno wrote:
Where do you guys live where they allow plastic conduit? In New York
I've never seen it.
You think rolled would break down the seem if you flatten the end? A
hole drilled on the sides first would keep a crack from spreading.
Where do you guys live where they allow plastic conduit? In New York
I've never seen it.
You think rolled would break down the seem if you flatten the end? A
hole drilled on the sides first would keep a crack from spreading.
T
Tom Del Rosso
Guest
Xeno wrote:
They even install steel conduit here for low voltage wiring in many
places, but usually not for the whole distance. They could use plastic
but apparently choose not to. Our steel conduit looks seemless in some
cases, and with a smooth welded seem in others.
They even install steel conduit here for low voltage wiring in many
places, but usually not for the whole distance. They could use plastic
but apparently choose not to. Our steel conduit looks seemless in some
cases, and with a smooth welded seem in others.
F
FMurtz
Guest
Tom Del Rosso wrote: