Op amps problem Gain Calculation

[Ban]

John Fields wrote:

On Wed, 7 Jun 2006 21:37:07 -0400, "Steve W." <Dugdug56@what.com
wrote:


Variable clock speed controls during either playback or recording
allows the speed of conversion to be altered to control tempo. To
vary pitch you need to play with the audio waveform in real-time.
Frequency conversion up/down allows the pitch to be altered. Use
both and you can have Frank singing My Way in Mickey's voice with
the song playing at the original speed. Or you can have Franks voice
stretching the song out a couple minutes. Take a loot at a modern
mixer panel and you will find lot's of toys to "shape" the tone and
tempo of the inputs and allow everything to work.

Even a SoundBlaster card has the parts and software to handle it.
Take a look at the environmental sound adjustments sometime.

---
OK.

Let's say that I wanted to take a recording of Nancy Sinatra's
rendition of "These Boots Are Made For Walkin'" and make it sound
like her dad sang it.

How would I go about doing that?

Get Adobe Audacity, load the song, click Effects/Time Shift/Stretch, choose
Streching Mode: Pitch Shift(preserves Tempo), click "preview" and adjust the
strech% slider to the desired value. Click "OK" and wait 35 seconds. You are
done.
--
ciao Ban
Apricale, Italy

 

[Mark Fortune]

-Almazick- wrote:

I had to replace the capacitor in vertical def. output

Hi, I am new to this group but I have a similar problem with my crt
monitor which I intend to have a look at someday. Not being one to enjoy
high voltage electricution however, I would like to get hold of a tool
to discharge the tube before I attempt any wizardry. I know they exist
because i've seen one used before, many years ago.
I believe it has a clip to connect to earth or the cathode, and a probe
to connect to the anode, with a series resistor built in to discharge it
in a controlled manner. What I dont know is what this tool is called, or
where to source one from (although if I knew what it was called a quick
google might suffice). I am in the UK, but anywhere outside the uk that
does international orders will be fine.

thanks in advance,
Mark

 

[jasen]

On 2006-07-06, Mark Fortune <mark@fortrex.co.uk> wrote:

-Almazick- wrote:
I had to replace the capacitor in vertical def. output





Hi, I am new to this group but I have a similar problem with my crt
monitor which I intend to have a look at someday. Not being one to enjoy
high voltage electricution however, I would like to get hold of a tool
to discharge the tube before I attempt any wizardry. I know they exist
because i've seen one used before, many years ago.
I believe it has a clip to connect to earth or the cathode, and a probe
to connect to the anode, with a series resistor built in to discharge it
in a controlled manner. What I dont know is what this tool is called, or
where to source one from (although if I knew what it was called a quick
google might suffice). I am in the UK, but anywhere outside the uk that
does international orders will be fine.

last time I wanted to do that I used a plastic-handled screwdriver and
aligator clip lead, one end to the earth on the back of the tube the other
to the shaft of the screwdriver...




Now that I've admitted it on usenet expect to hear from the experts why that
was a bad thing to do and how to do better

Bye.
Jasen

 

[Dan H]

PigVideo@bellsouth.net wrote:

It's not a simple problem there is no simple circuit

Dan

 

[JeffM]

was: Electronic Components for sale

jrakar @ jrakar.com wrote:
>[SPAM]

 

[Ernie Werbel]

<jrakar@jrakar.com> wrote in message
news:1152891457.358559.134460@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

====================================================


Please also check out our Electronic Components for sale pages:


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:: Thank You ::


========================================================

 

[JeffM]

Ernie Werbel wrote:
Have you considered NOT re-posting the spam you encounter?

It's obvious the jerk is clueless about HTML as well:
http://validator.w3.org/check?uri=http://www.jrakar.com/glw/electronics/ics.htm

 

[Ernie Werbel]

Sorry I just hit reply and type the message
"JeffM" <jeffm_@email.com> wrote in message
news:1152906420.526919.271040@p79g2000cwp.googlegroups.com...

Ernie Werbel wrote:
[Nothing new except the Subject line]

Have you considered NOT re-posting the spam you encounter?

It's obvious the jerk is clueless about HTML as well:
http://validator.w3.org/check?uri=http://www.jrakar.com/glw/electronics/ics.htm

 

[Ban]

JeffM wrote:

Ernie Werbel wrote:
[Nothing new except the Subject line]

Have you considered NOT re-posting the spam you encounter?

It's obvious the jerk is clueless about HTML as well:

It's probably from this Shadow-Troll, who seems to be clueless even what
format to write in a NG.
--
ciao Ban
Apricale, Italy

 

[Ernie Werbel]

Fvck off, pyrmaid schemist. This has been going on for weeks.

I'll erase the spam message.

 

[Ernie Werbel]

coos_bay@webtv.net wrote in message
<5327-44EB7FD6-207@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net>...
Make offer OR let me know what you have for a possible trade.



This isn't the place for it, but I'll give you an offer anyway...

How about a nice brand new Gucci leather boot shoved up your ass?

Freakin' spammer.

 

[P.]

Years ago I was messing around with old degauss coils from around the
edge of TV tubes connecting them directly to mains voltage while holding
them in gloves they melt down in a few seconds but you can feel the field
generated its
like the centrifugal force you feel when twisting a bicycle wheel while its
rotating.


"Richard Harris" <none@none.com> wrote in message
news:duhn48$msk$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

Hi, this is a little long.
I was watching a TV program about UFO's as there was nothing else on TV,
it
was very comical and amusing but then there was a 30 second clip of some
guy
that explained something and then showed an experiment. It got my
attention
and curiosity, would like to know if anyone has any information about what
is described below and if its true or not, as they say you cant believe
everything you see on TV.

The guy showed a device which was simply a circular coil of wire wraped
around about 240 times at a diameter of 4 inches, it had no core, just
taped
into a circle. It was not insulated either, not sure what gage wire it
was,
anyway, the two ends of the coil was attached to a US style mains plug,
the
guy plugged this into a US mains outlet which I believe is 110V 60HZ AC,
and
the coil of wire levitated in the air, there was no metal core or
anything,
it was not electromagnetism holding the coil in the air, but it just
floats
in the air! Now the only thing I would expect the coil to do would be to
generate a load of heat and a magnetic field. Is this for real? Any idea
what is going on?

I did not want to try this, for a number of reasons, one I have 240V
supply,
two my fuse box would most likely trip soon as the device is plugged in.

I did try google for information on this and came up with nothing like it.

Thanks.

 

[JeffM]

Don Hendrix wrote:
Notorious producers of crap as well.

 

[Scott Lane]

"P." <Parksy1234remove@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:450e1272$1@127.0.0.1...

Years ago I was messing around with old degauss coils from around the
edge of TV tubes connecting them directly to mains voltage while holding
them in gloves they melt down in a few seconds but you can feel the field
generated its
like the centrifugal force you feel when twisting a bicycle wheel while
its
rotating.


"Richard Harris" <none@none.com> wrote in message
news:duhn48$msk$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
Hi, this is a little long.
I was watching a TV program about UFO's as there was nothing else on TV,
it
was very comical and amusing but then there was a 30 second clip of some
guy
that explained something and then showed an experiment. It got my
attention
and curiosity, would like to know if anyone has any information about
what
is described below and if its true or not, as they say you cant believe
everything you see on TV.

The guy showed a device which was simply a circular coil of wire wraped
around about 240 times at a diameter of 4 inches, it had no core, just
taped
into a circle. It was not insulated either, not sure what gage wire it
was,
anyway, the two ends of the coil was attached to a US style mains plug,
the
guy plugged this into a US mains outlet which I believe is 110V 60HZ AC,
and
the coil of wire levitated in the air, there was no metal core or
anything,
it was not electromagnetism holding the coil in the air, but it just
floats
in the air! Now the only thing I would expect the coil to do would be to
generate a load of heat and a magnetic field. Is this for real? Any idea
what is going on?

I did not want to try this, for a number of reasons, one I have 240V
supply,
two my fuse box would most likely trip soon as the device is plugged in.

I did try google for information on this and came up with nothing like
it.

Thanks.




Gravity is just a force. Any opposing force that overcomes it would appear

to "defy" gravity, although I feel a better term for it would be to
"overcome the level of the force of gravity". Me jumping up and down could
be considered "defying" gravity. It doesn't matter what the force is made
of, electrical, electromechanical, or physical. Kinetic energy. By
definition, any electrical field contains an electromagnetic force.
Scott

 

[Clive]

Here are the email addresses you need.

gm3poi@btinternet.com
gm3poi0@btinternet.com
gm3poi1@btinternet.com
gm3poi2@btinternet.com
gm3poi3btinternet.com
gm3poi4@btinternet.com
gm3poi5@btinternet.com
gm3poi6@btinternet.com
gm3poi7@btinternet.com
gm3poi8@btinternet.com
gm3poi9@btinternet.com


Clive

--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
------->>>>>>http://www.NewsDemon.com<<<<<<------
Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access

 

[JeffM]

T-n-T wrote:

I was wondering if anyone could help me
with a design of a heat cable for my new terrarium.
I have on fairly expensive cable and would like to duplicate it.

Have you investigated simply purchasing another?

It has a 110v plug at one end and is about 8 feet long.
The end has a small knob which I assume is a resistor of some sort.

Perhaps a

http://groups.google.com/groups/search?q=phase-controller+heater

The actual heating part of the cable is about four feet long,
the rest is just to get to the outlet.

Does it look like it has a sensor?

BTW, i have seen some online for planted aquariums

Google has many facets:

http://froogle.google.com/froogle?scoring=p&price=between&price1=1&q=intitle:temperature-controller+-intitle:knob+-intitle:aquarium
http://froogle.google.com/froogle?scoring=p&price=between&price1=1&q=intitle:temperature-controller+intitle:Reptile

 

[mm]

Let me post some follow-up info on my last post. I don't have any
urgent questions, but I marked some background questions with ====>>

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 10:12:15 -0500, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

4 questions about an old motorcycle ignition system. Electrical
questions are 2 and 3, and maybe 1.

Well, I got my '69 Honda CB450 reassembled, just in time for the last
2 days of warm weather.

1) I tried to start it and it didn't start, and I had other things to
do for 2 or 2.5 hours, and when I got back to it, I saw that I had
left the ignition switch on**. This model has two carburetors 2
coils, 2 sets of points and 2 condensors. One coil was warm, and it
had 1 to 2 thimbles of waxy stuff which had come out of it. Did I
ruin the coil? If not yet, will it die in 5 or 10 hours of use? Is
there some way to repair the damage I did? (It's not clear I'll be
able to find a new set of coils for a 1969 motorcycle.)

I was wrong about this. There are frequent such coils on ebay. I
thought I had hunted on CB450 and looked at everything ebay had, but I
must have misrecollected. So since cold weather was coming, I bought
one even though I wasn't positive I needed it. 15 dollars plus 10
shipping.

2) The voltage
was 6 volts using an analog meter, and didnt' seem to be going up.

There were other strange results from my measurements. Partly from
mild dirt and corrosion which made it hard to make a good contact with
the surface, but I too often get strange results.

====>> ??

3) On the other circuit, I tried to evaluate the other condenser by
turning the ignition off and measuring the resistance across the
points, which I'm pretty sure is across the condenser. I expected to
see the resistance pretty low as the condenser filled and then
increace. But the resistance was close to infinity. If I tested
right? that means the condensor is open, but that shouldn't keep the
cyclinder from firing, right? IIRC, mostly what it means is that the
points would pit quickly?? If I can't get the right condensor
quickly, what value and type would I need to jerry rig one
temporarily?

I found specs that these are about 0.23 uf, microfarads. Pretty big.

Which is why it is possible to use an ohmmeter to test the capacitance
of these condensors, despite one poster's dubiousness.

I used to do this a lot, so I got the same meter I had used in the
past, a Lafayette VOM, from about 1971. On the x1K scale, when
applying the leads, the meter moves from all the way to the left about
10 degrees to the right, then slowly goes back to the left again.

For the sake of diodes and caps, when I needed new leads for some
reason, I made some with a double throw, double pole slide switch in
the middle that enables me to change polarity easily. Flipping the
switch back and forth would show the same behaviour each time, the
needle going to the right 10 degrees and then back to the left. This
means afaik that the capacitor is good. Yes?

I repeated the test with a Micronta "Range Doubler" analog meter which
I bought a few years ago used, but which I think was sold by Radio
Shack in the 70's. The test wasnt' as clear, but it gave similar
results to the Lafayette meter. 50,000 or 25,000 ohms per volt,
depending on whether range doubling is on or off.

When removed from the bike and disassembled, it turned out both of my
old capacitors, and both of the new capacitors were all good, despite
the indication I got somehow. that one was shorted. I really can't
imagine what gave the bad reading, since I had 3 layers of moderately
thick paper separating the points, and the ignition switch was off so
that end of the circuit was broken, AND at the same time I got
"shorted" for one capacitor, I got infinity for the other. I probably
wasn't using the analog meter, but some digital meter, which, unless
specifically designed for caps, can never measure or indicate
capacitance, afaik. So I still don't understand how I got shorted
for a cap that wasn't shorted.

4) There is a wick that lubricates the cam and keeps the rubbing
blocks from wearing out. I can't remember what I'm supposed to put on
the wick. What do I use, and if they don't still sell it, what do I
buy instead?

====>>
I went looking for cam grease andd they offerred me
A) Dielectric Connector Protector -- Avoid electrical failure, lock
out moisture, avoid corrosion.
B) E.P Antie-seize Engine Assemby Lube, with Moly and Graphite -- work
s on camshaft bearings... and all areas of rational or sliding metal
to metal contact.

Are either of these going to work? I don't think so, but I got to
shopping late, spent the daylight hours working on the bike in 74
degree weather, and the real auto parts store next door wasn't open
that late.

(I had trouble remembering this 30 to 20 years ago,
too, but I haven't had to worry about it since I've had
all-elecctronic ignitions on my car)


**If it had started, I would have remembered to turn the ignition off,
but since it didn't, I didn't. My fault.

BTW, the starter motor worked well, even though I hadn't checked it
out, and the kick starter seemed to maybe be working well, or at least
differently, even though it would go so far and then stop dead without
cranking up till now. The clutch disengaging is working fair, and the
throttle doesn't spring back quickly enough, even though I oiled all 3
cables (2 carburetors) and the throttle plates moved easily after
soaking the carburetors in Permatex.

Although they slowed down in the two weeks after I soaked them until I
installed them. I had to spray carb cleaner in them to free them up
again, and I expect this is where the problem is. (Unlike the other
parts, I diddn't disassemble this part. I left the butterfly on the
shaft and left the shaft in the carb. That was a mistake??

Thanks.

Remove NOPSAM to email me..

Remove NOPSAM to email me..

 

[Bike Guy Joe]

mm wrote:

Let me post some follow-up info on my last post. I don't have any
urgent questions, but I marked some background questions with ====

4) There is a wick that lubricates the cam and keeps the rubbing
blocks from wearing out. I can't remember what I'm supposed to put on
the wick. What do I use, and if they don't still sell it, what do I
buy instead?

====
I went looking for cam grease andd they offerred me
A) Dielectric Connector Protector -- Avoid electrical failure, lock
out moisture, avoid corrosion.
B) E.P Antie-seize Engine Assemby Lube, with Moly and Graphite -- work
s on camshaft bearings... and all areas of rational or sliding metal
to metal contact.

Are either of these going to work?

I definitely would NOT use the Never Seize/anti seize. I don't know
about the other stuff, but the grease that comes with a new set of
points is what you want.

 

[PeterD]

On Sat, 11 Nov 2006 00:08:37 -0500, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com>
wrote:

Let me post some follow-up info on my last post. I don't have any
urgent questions, but I marked some background questions with ====

On Thu, 02 Nov 2006 10:12:15 -0500, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com
wrote:

4 questions about an old motorcycle ignition system. Electrical
questions are 2 and 3, and maybe 1.

Well, I got my '69 Honda CB450 reassembled, just in time for the last
2 days of warm weather.

1) I tried to start it and it didn't start, and I had other things to
do for 2 or 2.5 hours, and when I got back to it, I saw that I had
left the ignition switch on**. This model has two carburetors 2
coils, 2 sets of points and 2 condensors. One coil was warm, and it
had 1 to 2 thimbles of waxy stuff which had come out of it. Did I
ruin the coil? If not yet, will it die in 5 or 10 hours of use? Is
there some way to repair the damage I did? (It's not clear I'll be
able to find a new set of coils for a 1969 motorcycle.)

I was wrong about this. There are frequent such coils on ebay. I
thought I had hunted on CB450 and looked at everything ebay had, but I
must have misrecollected. So since cold weather was coming, I bought
one even though I wasn't positive I needed it. 15 dollars plus 10
shipping.

2) The voltage
was 6 volts using an analog meter, and didnt' seem to be going up.

There were other strange results from my measurements. Partly from
mild dirt and corrosion which made it hard to make a good contact with
the surface, but I too often get strange results.

====>> ??

3) On the other circuit, I tried to evaluate the other condenser by
turning the ignition off and measuring the resistance across the
points, which I'm pretty sure is across the condenser. I expected to
see the resistance pretty low as the condenser filled and then
increace. But the resistance was close to infinity. If I tested
right? that means the condensor is open, but that shouldn't keep the
cyclinder from firing, right? IIRC, mostly what it means is that the
points would pit quickly?? If I can't get the right condensor
quickly, what value and type would I need to jerry rig one
temporarily?

I found specs that these are about 0.23 uf, microfarads. Pretty big.

Which is why it is possible to use an ohmmeter to test the capacitance
of these condensors, despite one poster's dubiousness.

I used to do this a lot, so I got the same meter I had used in the
past, a Lafayette VOM, from about 1971. On the x1K scale, when
applying the leads, the meter moves from all the way to the left about
10 degrees to the right, then slowly goes back to the left again.

For the sake of diodes and caps, when I needed new leads for some
reason, I made some with a double throw, double pole slide switch in
the middle that enables me to change polarity easily. Flipping the
switch back and forth would show the same behaviour each time, the
needle going to the right 10 degrees and then back to the left. This
means afaik that the capacitor is good. Yes?

Possibly. That doesn't test breakdown voltage for example. It does say
they are not shorted at the low voltage of the meter...

I repeated the test with a Micronta "Range Doubler" analog meter which
I bought a few years ago used, but which I think was sold by Radio
Shack in the 70's. The test wasnt' as clear, but it gave similar
results to the Lafayette meter. 50,000 or 25,000 ohms per volt,
depending on whether range doubling is on or off.

When removed from the bike and disassembled, it turned out both of my
old capacitors, and both of the new capacitors were all good, despite
the indication I got somehow. that one was shorted. I really can't
imagine what gave the bad reading, since I had 3 layers of moderately
thick paper separating the points, and the ignition switch was off so
that end of the circuit was broken, AND at the same time I got
"shorted" for one capacitor, I got infinity for the other. I probably
wasn't using the analog meter, but some digital meter, which, unless
specifically designed for caps, can never measure or indicate
capacitance, afaik. So I still don't understand how I got shorted
for a cap that wasn't shorted.

Uh, maybe something else is shorted? Or maybe an intermittant short
that went away when you removed it?

4) There is a wick that lubricates the cam and keeps the rubbing
blocks from wearing out. I can't remember what I'm supposed to put on
the wick. What do I use, and if they don't still sell it, what do I
buy instead?
====
I went looking for cam grease andd they offerred me
A) Dielectric Connector Protector -- Avoid electrical failure, lock
out moisture, avoid corrosion.
B) E.P Antie-seize Engine Assemby Lube, with Moly and Graphite -- work
s on camshaft bearings... and all areas of rational or sliding metal
to metal contact.

Absolute NO to selection B! Never, ever!

On selection A, if this is all you can find, use it. Be very careful
not to over apply it however. Real cam lub is quite sticky to prevent
it from being slung off as the cam rotates (and having that slung off
stuff contaminate the points...) Dielectric grease is similar but not
as sticky.

Are either of these going to work? I don't think so, but I got to
shopping late, spent the daylight hours working on the bike in 74
degree weather, and the real auto parts store next door wasn't open
that late.

(I had trouble remembering this 30 to 20 years ago,
too, but I haven't had to worry about it since I've had
all-elecctronic ignitions on my car)


**If it had started, I would have remembered to turn the ignition off,
but since it didn't, I didn't. My fault.

BTW, the starter motor worked well, even though I hadn't checked it
out, and the kick starter seemed to maybe be working well, or at least
differently, even though it would go so far and then stop dead without
cranking up till now. The clutch disengaging is working fair, and the
throttle doesn't spring back quickly enough, even though I oiled all 3
cables (2 carburetors) and the throttle plates moved easily after
soaking the carburetors in Permatex.

Although they slowed down in the two weeks after I soaked them until I
installed them. I had to spray carb cleaner in them to free them up
again, and I expect this is where the problem is. (Unlike the other

Me, I'd look for new cables if possible. They may never recover. You
can probably hvae them custom fabricated at a reasonable cost.

parts, I diddn't disassemble this part. I left the butterfly on the
shaft and left the shaft in the carb. That was a mistake??

I'm always very reluctant to pull the butterfly out unless there is
excessive play/leakage at teh shaft that must be fixed. (that involves
machining out the holes, sleeving them, and a bunch of other PITA
work, so don't do that unless necessary.

Thanks.

Remove NOPSAM to email me..


Remove NOPSAM to email me..

 

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