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give them a fake address.
In article <MeqdnfY6cZ_ZjmrdRVn-hQ@gbronline.com>, Wes Groleau
groleau+news@freeshell.org> wrote:
Gnarlodious wrote:
I bought a small item at Radio Shack several months ago, and the clerk
asked
the man in front of me for his social security number. He began
reciting it
in public but I interrupted him, telling him she didn't need his SS#
and he
should never publicly announce it. A loud argument ensued with the
clerk
bringing out the manager. The manager assured me it was official RS
policy
Every time I try to buy something there, even if I pay cash,
they try to get my address and phone number. I always have
to argue with them. "You don't need my phone number to send
your stupid catalog, and I don't want the catalog anyway."
But they still argue they need it. Eventually I win or
I walk out with my money and no product.
My guess is that the condition of the meter and its functions are moreNoticed that old Fluke meters are selling for $50-$80 whereas
comparable Wavetek meters, same features, sell for $10-$30. Any
suggestions on whether the extra cost of a used Fluke is worth it, over
Wavetek? Also, is the Ideal multimeter really a Wavektek? (Buttons are
in the same position, same functions.) But, why cheaper?
I prefer to use mine; there is more chance they'll put it into"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> aszonygya:
But they still argue they need it. Eventually I win or
I walk out with my money and no product.
Next time just give my phone and SS#: 1-800-555-5555 and
999-99-9999. I don't mind it. /Paul
"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> aszonygya:
:> > But they still argue they need it. Eventually I win or
:> > I walk out with my money and no product.
Next time just give my phone and SS#: 1-800-555-5555 and 999-99-9999. I
don't mind it. /Paul
Paul Nevai wrote:
"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> aszonygya:
But they still argue they need it. Eventually I win or
I walk out with my money and no product.
Next time just give my phone and SS#: 1-800-555-5555 and
999-99-9999. I don't mind it. /Paul
I prefer to use mine; there is more chance they'll put it into
their system: 1-area-555-1212 and 123-54-9876.
Hi
After 3 years my Lecroy 9400 has died. It no longer responds to the
front panel or GPIB. Everything still works but the settings are stuck
and can`t be changed. There is a red LED glowing on the main board
which I guess is a fault indication. My gut reaction is that a clock
has stopped oscillating but where to start???
Any help appreciated.
precision and stability of their present hand-helds is similar to theirdennis702717@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1111903973.274793.233960@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Noticed that old Fluke meters are selling for $50-$80 whereas
comparable Wavetek meters, same features, sell for $10-$30. Any
suggestions on whether the extra cost of a used Fluke is worth it, over
Wavetek? Also, is the Ideal multimeter really a Wavektek? (Buttons are
in the same position, same functions.) But, why cheaper?
My guess is that the condition of the meter and its functions are more
important to you than the brand. However, Fluke has a better reputation
than the other 2 manufacturers, and this probably has the most to do with
the difference in price.
Norm
Another thing to consider about Fluke DVMs: if the quality and
There is a way to access the Social Security death index - genealogists"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> aszonygya:
:> > But they still argue they need it. Eventually I win or
:> > I walk out with my money and no product.
Next time just give my phone and SS#: 1-800-555-5555 and 999-99-9999. I
don't mind it. /Paul
One thing you need to remember is that SS#s bear a relation to one'sPaul Nevai wrote:
"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> aszonygya:
But they still argue they need it. Eventually I win or
I walk out with my money and no product.
Next time just give my phone and SS#: 1-800-555-5555 and
999-99-9999. I don't mind it. /Paul
I prefer to use mine; there is more chance they'll put it into
their system: 1-area-555-1212 and 123-54-9876.
driver's license numbers. You will note that the first four characters inIf that is the number on a driver's license you may need to show that
for ID but many states are now replacing the SS number with their own
state-generated number as a matter of privacy. As long as you give
them the special private number on a driver's ID you have fulfilled
the obligations under law for ID purposes.
I think almost every state has migrated to the Soundex system for ID and
That was very interesting..... Thanks for sharing that. For what it's worth,In article <sunclad-88ACE6.13101528032005@news.verizon.net>, "D.
Kirkpatrick" <sunclad@sunclad.com> wrote:
If that is the number on a driver's license you may need to show that
for ID but many states are now replacing the SS number with their own
state-generated number as a matter of privacy. As long as you give
them the special private number on a driver's ID you have fulfilled
the obligations under law for ID purposes.
I think almost every state has migrated to the Soundex system for ID and
driver's license numbers. You will note that the first four characters in
your DL or ID number is the first letter of your surname and then three
numbers based on the consonents in your surname. This is the Soundex value
of your surname and it is the basis of sorting and indexing US and some
state census information since before 1870. Soundex was not used to
generate any part of a SS#. Based on my surname, Ferman, my Soundex in the
census and my drivers license first four are F655, but my SS# starts out
473. My father's SS# did not start out with 473.
Well, personally, that's sounding way too much like work to come up withIn article <d29d2h$mrj$1@charm.magnus.acs.ohio-state.edu>,
nevai@math.ohio-state.edu (Paul Nevai) wrote:
"Jim Douglas" <james.douglas@genesis-software.com> aszonygya:
:> > But they still argue they need it. Eventually I win or
:> > I walk out with my money and no product.
Next time just give my phone and SS#: 1-800-555-5555 and 999-99-9999. I
don't mind it. /Paul
There is a way to access the Social Security death index - genealogists
use it all the time. I believe you can get to it through Rootsweb. There
you can see SS#s galore. If you do a search on your surname (or a similar
spelling of it), you could get thousands. I just give my dad's SS# - he
has been dead for over 50 years.
The first three digits are defined by the location from which the SSnIn article <sunclad-88ACE6.13101528032005@news.verizon.net>, "D.
Kirkpatrick" <sunclad@sunclad.com> wrote:
If that is the number on a driver's license you may need to show that
for ID but many states are now replacing the SS number with their own
state-generated number as a matter of privacy. As long as you give
them the special private number on a driver's ID you have fulfilled
the obligations under law for ID purposes.
I think almost every state has migrated to the Soundex system for ID and
driver's license numbers. You will note that the first four characters in
your DL or ID number is the first letter of your surname and then three
numbers based on the consonents in your surname. This is the Soundex value
of your surname and it is the basis of sorting and indexing US and some
state census information since before 1870. Soundex was not used to
generate any part of a SS#. Based on my surname, Ferman, my Soundex in the
census and my drivers license first four are F655, but my SS# starts out
473. My father's SS# did not start out with 473.
A number of sources I've seen list the first issues SSN asOne thing you need to remember is that SS#s bear a relation to one's
location and other factors. In other words the first SS# was not
000-00-0001.
In the early 90s, a lot people would question my SSN's legimitacy,Most organizations that put SS#s into a database will have an
algorithym to detect improper numbers based on the was SSA formulates the
number.
I think front panel signals are get by cpu.blink....maybe confirmation that front panel signals are not getting
through.
It is difficult both signal are wrong.It no longer responds to the front panel or GPIB.
Many thanks for the response.
I see what you`re getting at. Where are you looking for signals on the
rear panel?? At one of the RS ports or the GPIB??
Had a poke around with another scope and find that both crystals are
operating....although did `nt know there were PLLs on board.
Thanks for the tip on that LED....I`m certain it does n`t
blink....maybe confirmation that front panel signals are not getting
through.
A schematic is the answer I think.
Nick
kishikawa wrote:
Hellow Nick,
I have Lecroy 9450A having some trouble.
But most of time it works properly.
There is a red LED on front panel interface board(main board?).
Red LED is glowing,it blinks when changing front panel settings.
Maybe LED glowing means not fault.
I guess clock is not setted properly maybe PLL circuit is in problem.
So cpu is waiting until clock setted signal.
If you have another Oscilloscope.
Check clock out signals in rear panel.
My Oscilloscope does not output any signals when troubled.
But when Oscilloscope works well there are clock out signals.
Your trouble is very similar to my trouble.
Most of my trouble is not triggered.
But rarely I can not change front panel setting as your trouble.
I am shooting this trouble.
But I have not schematic diagrams,service manuals.
Have you any advice?
Thank you Kishikawa
nick.kenworthy@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:1112044072.059861.151050@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
Hi
After 3 years my Lecroy 9400 has died. It no longer responds to the
front panel or GPIB. Everything still works but the settings are
stuck
and can`t be changed. There is a red LED glowing on the main board
which I guess is a fault indication. My gut reaction is that a
clock
has stopped oscillating but where to start???
Any help appreciated.
Hi all,
I have a bit of a strange problem. I have a fairly new, fairly high
quality 19" monitor that sometime suffers from an annoying "shake".
Usually it's most noticible in the upper left corner, but sometimes it
occurs around the entire perimiter of the screen. I recently connected
it to a SmartUPS 700, but the problem will still occur. I even
connected a 500 joules surge protector to the outlet which the UPS
connects to, but the problem STILL occurs. I've taken the monitor to
other locations and the problem does not happen. I live in an old
building (>75 yrs old), and I'm betting the wiring is also very old.
Things like turning on the washer/dryer set this off.
What else can I do to prevent this from happening? Is the APC SmartUPS
700 simply not powerful enough to "condition" the line? I know the UPS
works in terms of being able to keep my equipment online when there is
no AC power, but it does not appear to be helping w/ preventing these
spikes/surges (correct terminology?) from reaching my monitor. For my
own knowledge, why would this be the case?
Thanks for any insight...
joe.
The older system is called "knob and post"; used until the lateJoe,
We had jitter problems in our monitors when we set them on top of a
power distribution box. That was back in the eighties, and people
don't use those power distribution boxes anymore, as far as I know.
(They had a "master" on/off switch, and switches for the system unit,
monitor, printer, and a few additional units. They were designed to
sit between the system unit, usually horizontal back then, and the
monitor.)
But the 60 Hz radiation from the box was too much for the monitor to
bear.
Any-ho, look for any electrical appliances near your monitor -
flourescent light, power strip, even an incandescent lamp.
It "may be" your building wiring. However, if the wiring uses cable
(hot and neutral in a common sheath) instead of separate wires at some
distance from each other (that predates even me - called "post and ??"
or something), it is unlikely to create much of a magnetic field very
far from the wires. More likely it is something much closer to the
monitor.
Here is a clue - if the wires to-and-from the appliance or circuit are
close together, the magnetic fields cancel each other a very short
distance from the wires. If the wires are separated by a distance, as
apparently they were inside the aforementioned box, they will radiate a
60 Hz magnetic field for some distance, potentially messing with that
delicate stream of electrons hurrying from the "guns" at the back of
the CRT to the precision phosphorescent dots on the face of the CRT.
-Howard
joe_macdonald25@yahoo.com wrote:
Hi all,
I have a bit of a strange problem. I have a fairly new, fairly high
quality 19" monitor that sometime suffers from an annoying "shake".
Usually it's most noticible in the upper left corner, but sometimes
it
occurs around the entire perimiter of the screen. I recently
connected
it to a SmartUPS 700, but the problem will still occur. I even
connected a 500 joules surge protector to the outlet which the UPS
connects to, but the problem STILL occurs. I've taken the monitor to
other locations and the problem does not happen. I live in an old
building (>75 yrs old), and I'm betting the wiring is also very old.
Things like turning on the washer/dryer set this off.
What else can I do to prevent this from happening? Is the APC
SmartUPS
700 simply not powerful enough to "condition" the line? I know the
UPS
works in terms of being able to keep my equipment online when there
is
no AC power, but it does not appear to be helping w/ preventing these
spikes/surges (correct terminology?) from reaching my monitor. For
my
own knowledge, why would this be the case?
Thanks for any insight...
joe.
FYI:
HedgeWarden wrote:
Joe,
We had jitter problems in our monitors when we set them on top of a
power distribution box. That was back in the eighties, and people
don't use those power distribution boxes anymore, as far as I know.
(They had a "master" on/off switch, and switches for the system unit,
monitor, printer, and a few additional units. They were designed to
sit between the system unit, usually horizontal back then, and the
monitor.)
But the 60 Hz radiation from the box was too much for the monitor to
bear.
Any-ho, look for any electrical appliances near your monitor -
flourescent light, power strip, even an incandescent lamp.
It "may be" your building wiring. However, if the wiring uses cable
(hot and neutral in a common sheath) instead of separate wires at some
distance from each other (that predates even me - called "post and ??"
or something), it is unlikely to create much of a magnetic field very
far from the wires. More likely it is something much closer to the
monitor.
Here is a clue - if the wires to-and-from the appliance or circuit are
close together, the magnetic fields cancel each other a very short
distance from the wires. If the wires are separated by a distance, as
apparently they were inside the aforementioned box, they will radiate a
60 Hz magnetic field for some distance, potentially messing with that
delicate stream of electrons hurrying from the "guns" at the back of
the CRT to the precision phosphorescent dots on the face of the CRT.
-Howard
joe_macdonald25@yahoo.com wrote:
Hi all,
I have a bit of a strange problem. I have a fairly new, fairly high
quality 19" monitor that sometime suffers from an annoying "shake".
Usually it's most noticible in the upper left corner, but sometimes
it
occurs around the entire perimiter of the screen. I recently
connected
it to a SmartUPS 700, but the problem will still occur. I even
connected a 500 joules surge protector to the outlet which the UPS
connects to, but the problem STILL occurs. I've taken the monitor to
other locations and the problem does not happen. I live in an old
building (>75 yrs old), and I'm betting the wiring is also very old.
Things like turning on the washer/dryer set this off.
What else can I do to prevent this from happening? Is the APC
SmartUPS
700 simply not powerful enough to "condition" the line? I know the
UPS
works in terms of being able to keep my equipment online when there
is
no AC power, but it does not appear to be helping w/ preventing these
spikes/surges (correct terminology?) from reaching my monitor. For
my
own knowledge, why would this be the case?
Thanks for any insight...
joe.
FYI:
The older system is called "knob and post"; used until the late
1930's AFAIK.
************
AC power transformers near the monitor can also cause what is described.
On Wed, 06 Apr 2005 17:11:12 GMT, Vidar Lřkken <njus@vidarlo.net
wrote:
Don Pearce wrote:
This experiment has nothing to do with cancellation in a room. Take
the speakers out of the pipe and try again. Use broadband noise as
your sound, and see what you can achieve by way of cancellation.
Mainly find out how far apart you can place the speakers and still
achieve useful results.
Well, I can't see how not. If you manage to place them according to the
noise, you should get the same effect, if using a DSP that calculates
the waveform, and timing.
Mercedes used this on some of their cars to cancel out noise, and many
planes use it...
Do the experiment. You will find out why. The stuff in cars and planes
works - barely - for two reasons.
1. The volume is very small
2. The frequencies being cancelled are very low
d
Pearce Consulting
http://www.pearce.uk.com
Well, a bedroom *is* slightly smaller than an opera house or airplane...