magnetic field

[Terry Given]

R. Steve Walz wrote:

Tom MacIntyre wrote:

On Sat, 06 Nov 2004 18:07:29 GMT, "Clarence" <no@No.com> wrote:


"Tom MacIntyre" <tom__macintyre@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:j93qo0potq5la8jb5tb56o5olsh8c5gu4j@4ax.com...

snip

Corporal punishment for my child is MY right, and MY decision, not
that of anyone else.

Tom

That was my stepfathers line, until I broke his nose!
His weapon of choice was a broom stick.
I just used my fist!

If you have to use corporal punishment, you are an unfit parent!


You just admitted that you used corporal punishment on your
step-father (actually, depending on the circumstances, you may have
assaulted him). The only difference is you used a part of your own
body, and you seem to have had a good reason.

-------------------------
He defended himself. The Evil parents do comes of trying to control
or manipulate a child with violence, fear or threat. No child should
ever be hit unless he has hit or intended injury to another unjustly.



It's only one of several options, and always the final one. A light
tap or two on the ass with an open hand is not likely to hurt anyone;

---------------------------
Had my father hit me even once, I'd have turned from everything and
become a criminal set lifelong on revenge against anyone who got in
my way. Know ye that you are blessed with a world in which my father
was a sensible man, or I'd have killed or maimed several of you and
yours by now! Seriously!

So the only reason you are not a homicidal axe-wielding maniac is
because your father never once smacked you, but a single spank would
drive you over the edge.

Having read your posts on this thread, I am inclined to agree with your
own character assessment - you are dangerously unstable.

I am not taliking about drawing blood and/or inflicting pain, it's
about sending a message. Numerous courts are on my side in this in
North America. Broomsticks, paint stirring sticks, army belts, the
"strap", caning...the weapons of cowards. Thankfully times have
changed.

------------------
That the courts are as stupid as you does not recommend it, you, or
them. No person should be assaulted lest they have given assault on
another who did nonesuch to them! This is the essential inborn sense
of human fairness at work. If a child is hit arbitrarily to try to
make them obey you like a wind-up ponce, then whoever hits them should
be taken out and be beaten to death at the curb and be left for the
garbage pick-up!

-Steve

 

[Rich The Philosophizer]

On Mon, 08 Nov 2004 00:09:47 +1300, Terry Given wrote:

The resident psychologit basically equipped the parents with some balls,
^^^

No Freudian slips here, nope. Nosiree, nuh-uh!

;^j

 

[Jim Backus]

On Tue, 16 Nov 2004 03:16:10 UTC, "KILOWATT"
<kilowatt"nospam"@softhome.net> wrote:

With the four 1n4007 wired in series, i
should get a peak reverse voltage of about 4Kv isn't? For what i know, a
diode is destroyed once it's PIV is exceeded. I think i missed something
when studying the basic operation theory of a diode. ;-) TIA for any
useful reply.

It is only destroyed if the local heating is too great. Remember that
a zener is a reverse biased diode that is intended to work in
breakdown. When using several diodes in series to use them with a
higher voltage, they need to be down-rated and it is usual to parallel
them with capacitors to ensure an even distribution of voltage. So if
the piv rating of a 1N4007 is 1000 V, it might be wise to downrate
them to 700 V or thereabouts. The paralell capacitor value would
depend on the frequency of operation.

--
Jim Backus OS/2 user since 1994
bona fide replies to j <dot> backus <the circle thingy> jita <dot>
demon <dot> co <dot> uk

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 00:11:51 GMT, "Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com>
wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge
the battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but
it still won't charge. I checked the fuseable link from the
alternator to the battery, and there is continuity. Therefore,
it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2
be to do so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and
adjust it until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in
the alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

Check your car wiring diagram and locate the regulator.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[maxpower]

the regulator is internal to the PCM, not external. been awhile since i
worked on this vehicle so i cant tell you the circuit numbers, but......you
have the 2 field wires, i believe they are both green wires...... with the
key on, car not running you should have battery voltage to one of those
wires, remember which one it is, now start the car, the other wire is going
to the PCM, if you ground that wire it will full field the alterator, that
will tell you if the alt is putting out... if it does start charging when
you do that..trace that wire back to the PCM and make sure it is a completed
circuit, assuming it is and the alt is not charging, replace the pcm, thats
a 100amp alt. i would not tamper or modify it in any way
Glenn Beasley
Chrysler Tech
"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:bTand.3200$Qh3.682@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge
the battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but
it still won't charge. I checked the fuseable link from the
alternator to the battery, and there is continuity. Therefore,
it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2
be to do so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and
adjust it until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in
the alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

 

[me!]

Best advice is to wait for Stern to pop his head in,,, he has written an
article on this specific issue... I just can't find it !! (Saved it
somewhere it wouldn't be lost) or.. I would forward it.. sorry.. however
hang on .. don't do anything silly in the interim..

Ted

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

<etc>

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.

 

[maxpower]

will that still set a fault for alt not switching properly?, If you bypass
the alt field in the PCM?
"Daniel J. Stern" <dastern@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
newsine.GSO.4.58.0411191302530.10472@alumni.engin.umich.edu...

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, Jon G. wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't
charge. I checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery,
and there is continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

The regulator is a part of the Single Board Engine Controller, yes.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

What you are calling "logic" wires are the field wires.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

etc

The way you plan to do it will not work.

Here is a fix that *will* work, without replacing the engine computer and
without causing any additional problems:

First, pick one of the following regulators:

Regular normal electromechanical regulator:
NAPA Echlin VR32

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount:
NAPA Echlin VR34

Extra heavy duty electromechanical regulator w/vibrationproof mount and
convenient external voltage adjustment screw:
NAPA Echlin VR35, Standard-Bluestreak VR106

Transistorized regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
Standard-Bluestreak VR101, Wells VR706 (the wells item is very
inexpensive; it works but Wells doesn't make my favourite stuff)

Waterproof potted IC regulator with no moving parts (no adjusting screw):
NAPA Echlin VR1001, Standard-Bluestreak VR128


Any of these regulators will have two terminals on it, one marked "IGN"
and the other marked "FLD". (the VR1001 and VR128 have the "fld" terminal
on the end of a short wire lead). The alternator gets the original C1 and
C2 wires removed from its two field terminals (right next to each other,
small studs with nuts retaining the two flag terminals).

The regulator IGN terminal gets 12V via the ignition switch, and the "FLD"
terminal gets connected via a wire to one (either) of the field terminals
on the alternator. The other field terminal on the alternator gets
connected via a wire to ground. Run a ground wire -- 16ga is plenty --
between the regulator base and the battery negative terminal, and mount
the regulator such that it won't rock 'n' roll around. At this point, your
charging system will once again work fine. If you got the adjustable
regulator, set it for 14.2v across the battery with the engine fully
warmed up and ambient temperature above 50F.

If your "Check Engine" light comes on, put a resistor across the two
original field wires C1 and C2 before securing these wires such that they
can't ground out or get caught in any moving parts.

Close the hood; you're done.

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, maxpower wrote:

will that still set a fault for alt not switching properly?

Some SBEC calibrations won't care that an external regulator is doing the
job; others will set a fault. Of those that set a fault, some (mostly
'92-up) will illuminate the MIL. This can be worked around as previously
mentioned by putting a resistor across the vehicle's two original field
wires (which have been disconnected from the alternator). And really,
that's the only thing that matters, is that this repair be made in such a
manner as not to have the Check Engine light on. If it sets a fault code,
who cares? There are plenty of cases where an irrelevant fault is stored.
Cars without A/C routinely set a 33 ("Open or Short in A/C clutch
circuit"). K-car derivatives that have had the torque converter lockup
disconnected in accordance with the TSB on part-throttle surge and lug
will set a 37 ("Open or short in TCC circuit").

The important thing is that the charging system's operation will be
reliably restored without causing new problems, and at a much lower cost
than replacing the computer.

DS

 

[me!]

Thank you DS..

I have now saved it in another place where I won't lose it !!!

Ted

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, me! wrote:

Thank you DS..

I have now saved it in another place where I won't lose it !!!

Glad to help (and this one posted today contained a much more complete
list of usable regulators).

 

[exxos]

"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:bTand.3200$Qh3.682@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's nothing
wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't charge. I
checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery, and there is
continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to do
so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

I had a problem with one of my cars in the past with the alternator not
charging, what this turned out to be was the ground pin on the regulator was
going via a lamp on the dashboard, thus giveing a slight volt raise on the
ground so you got maybe 13V from the 12V regulator, though it took me a long
time to work out why my battery wouldn't charge, turns out the bulb went on
the dashboard, no ground on the regulator, alternator didn't charge the
battery, thus car wouldn't start.... strange how a small item such as a
dashboard light can stop the car from starting ;-)

Chris

 

[maxpower]

i would check out the circuit before cutting and adding resistors and
regulators, try to keep eveything working the way it was designed, many a
times i have found the 8 way connectors loose/corroded causing a no charge
condition. just a simple back probe test to the PCM
"exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote in message
news:419e6297$0$1821$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...

"Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com> wrote in message
news:bTand.3200$Qh3.682@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge the
battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and there's
nothing
wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but it still won't charge. I
checked the fuseable link from the alternator to the battery, and there
is
continuity. Therefore, it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an external
voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2 be to
do
so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and adjust it
until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in the
alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)


I had a problem with one of my cars in the past with the alternator not
charging, what this turned out to be was the ground pin on the regulator
was
going via a lamp on the dashboard, thus giveing a slight volt raise on the
ground so you got maybe 13V from the 12V regulator, though it took me a
long
time to work out why my battery wouldn't charge, turns out the bulb went
on
the dashboard, no ground on the regulator, alternator didn't charge the
battery, thus car wouldn't start.... strange how a small item such as a
dashboard light can stop the car from starting ;-)

Chris

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, maxpower wrote:

the reason why i ask is because the emiision test center cares here in MD.
I no all about those irrelvant codes, its hard to tell the emission test
center that the check engine lite is on becuase of a P/s switch is faulty,

That's why it's important to make sure the Check Engine light is not on.

You're making this much harder and "scarier" than it actually is.

 

[Daniel J. Stern]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, exxos wrote:

I had a problem with one of my cars in the past with the alternator not
charging, what this turned out to be was the ground pin on the regulator
was going via a lamp on the dashboard, thus giveing a slight volt raise
on the ground so you got maybe 13V from the 12V regulator, though it
took me a long time to work out why my battery wouldn't charge, turns
out the bulb went on the dashboard, no ground on the regulator,
alternator didn't charge the battery, thus car wouldn't start....

Fun story, but not applicable to the original poster's '91 Acclaim -- not
even a little bit. Also, "12v" automotive voltage regulators have set
points of between 13.8 and 15.1 volts. A regulator with a set point of 12v
would not charge the battery.

 

[exxos]

"Daniel J. Stern" <dastern@127.0.0.1> wrote in message
newsine.GSO.4.58.0411191652350.10472@alumni.engin.umich.edu...

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004, exxos wrote:

I had a problem with one of my cars in the past with the alternator not
charging, what this turned out to be was the ground pin on the regulator
was going via a lamp on the dashboard, thus giveing a slight volt raise
on the ground so you got maybe 13V from the 12V regulator, though it
took me a long time to work out why my battery wouldn't charge, turns
out the bulb went on the dashboard, no ground on the regulator,
alternator didn't charge the battery, thus car wouldn't start....

Fun story, but not applicable to the original poster's '91 Acclaim -- not
even a little bit. Also, "12v" automotive voltage regulators have set
points of between 13.8 and 15.1 volts. A regulator with a set point of 12v
would not charge the battery.

I was suggesting that simple faults can make things look like sometime which
they are not, and yes you are correct 12V wont charge the battery, the OP
had alternator problems which im pretty sure I gave some suggestions towards
a possible cure. 12V regulators do exsist, like my old car raised to around
13V via the resistance in the dash lamp, the OP has a valuable new view
point on his problem to which I replied.

chris

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 22:26:37 -0000, "exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote:

"maxpower" <gjbeasley@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:uP-dnS4tafzl-wPcRVn-gA@comcast.com...
i would check out the circuit before cutting and adding resistors and
regulators, try to keep eveything working the way it was designed, many a
times i have found the 8 way connectors loose/corroded causing a no charge
condition. just a simple back probe test to the PCM


assuming you replied to my msg, the lamp was part of those car diagnostic
"features", I think the idea was that if the regulator shorted out it would
light the lamp on the dash... only mine had a I/O short (at some point in
its life) so the lamp never lite, but yet the battery was charging to to
19V... It also doubled up to raise the regulator voltage to about 13V....so
much for technology..... good idea in theory though ;-)

chris


[snip]

I think you'll find that the lamp was looking at the neutral
(mid-point of the "Y") terminal of the alternator, which is where most
idiot lights get their information... actually quite good at
indicating faults _before_ the battery goes dead.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[exxos]

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news72tp0hlhg1h3a5bgbh7ag7sbes5ini05g@4ax.com...

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 23:33:13 -0000, "exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote:


"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news:lfusp0dui6381l0jh56huo6u90h37u3no7@4ax.com...
On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 22:26:37 -0000, "exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote:


"maxpower" <gjbeasley@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:uP-dnS4tafzl-wPcRVn-gA@comcast.com...
i would check out the circuit before cutting and adding resistors and
regulators, try to keep eveything working the way it was designed,
many
a
times i have found the 8 way connectors loose/corroded causing a no
charge
condition. just a simple back probe test to the PCM


assuming you replied to my msg, the lamp was part of those car
diagnostic
"features", I think the idea was that if the regulator shorted out it
would
light the lamp on the dash... only mine had a I/O short (at some point
in
its life) so the lamp never lite, but yet the battery was charging to to
19V... It also doubled up to raise the regulator voltage to about
13V....so
much for technology..... good idea in theory though ;-)

chris


[snip]

I think you'll find that the lamp was looking at the neutral
(mid-point of the "Y") terminal of the alternator, which is where most
idiot lights get their information... actually quite good at
indicating faults _before_ the battery goes dead.


It was in the ground, I actually grounded the point instead of going via
the
lamp, battery only got around 11V on it though at least it proved the
point.
It was actually a 12V regulator, I measued it with a DMM at the time and
even at high revs it only ever hit 12.5V, so it needed a higher ground
ref,
hence via the dash lamp. I would never have thought they would do such
tricks like that on cars, ive seen it countless times on electronics
equipment, though was supprised to see the same trick on a car.

Chris


What brand of car? Yugo ?

Citroen (SP?) did well lasted a long time, have a reno now, exloded last
week, ah off topic again....

Chris

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Sat, 20 Nov 2004 08:34:23 -0000, "exxos" <exxos@home.co.uk> wrote:

"Jim Thompson" <thegreatone@example.com> wrote in message
news72tp0hlhg1h3a5bgbh7ag7sbes5ini05g@4ax.com...
[snip]
It was actually a 12V regulator, I measued it with a DMM at the time and
even at high revs it only ever hit 12.5V, so it needed a higher ground
ref,
hence via the dash lamp. I would never have thought they would do such
tricks like that on cars, ive seen it countless times on electronics
equipment, though was supprised to see the same trick on a car.

Chris


What brand of car? Yugo ?

Citroen (SP?) did well lasted a long time, have a reno now, exloded last
week, ah off topic again....

Chris

Pondering, it could be a form of temperature compensation. In a
Citroen, who knows ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson, P.E. | mens |
| Analog Innovations, Inc. | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| Phoenix, Arizona Voice480)460-2350 | |
| E-mail Address at Website Fax480)460-2142 | Brass Rat |
| http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

On Thu, 18 Nov 2004 17:28:39 -0700, Jim Thompson
<thegreatone@example.com> wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2004 00:11:51 GMT, "Jon G." <jon8338@peoplepc.com
wrote:

I have a 91 Plymouth Acclaim, and the alternator doesn't charge
the battery. I took the alternator out and had it tested, and
there's nothing wrong with it. I put a new battery in it, but
it still won't charge. I checked the fuseable link from the
alternator to the battery, and there is continuity. Therefore,
it must be the computer.

there are 4 connections on the alternator

L1: direct to battery, positive
L2: direct to battery, negative
c1: small wire, logic, to computer, activates diode
c2: small wire, logic, to computer, also battery ground.

I want to activate the alternator continuously and put on an
external voltage regulator.

What must the voltage (and current), to the logic inputs c1 & c2
be to do so?

I have in mind to run a potentiometer between L1 and c1, and
adjust it until the alternator kicks on.

The schematic shows that c1 goes to the coil of a transformer in
the alternator, which then goes to one of the diodes (an SCR?)

Check your car wiring diagram and locate the regulator.

...Jim Thompson

The engine control computer has the regulator built in, and an
external regulator CAN be installed.