K
KenW
Guest
Why play around return the thing. The next time don\'t put the blades
on and wire it to a plug, plug it in and test.
KenW
on and wire it to a plug, plug it in and test.
KenW
K
KenW
Guest
Also check online for problems with the model you got.
KenW
KenW
B
bruce bowser
Guest
On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-4, Boris wrote in alt.home.repair:
What else is plugged into the circuit?
What else is plugged into the circuit?
J
Jeff Layman
Guest
On 03/04/2021 19:34, Cydrome Leader wrote:
That\'s the first time I\'ve had an old post resurrected by Google Groups!
My OP was over 6 years ago. FWIW the interference was stopped by using a
delta suppression filter and a ferrite ring.
--
Jeff
That\'s the first time I\'ve had an old post resurrected by Google Groups!
My OP was over 6 years ago. FWIW the interference was stopped by using a
delta suppression filter and a ferrite ring.
--
Jeff
M
Michael Trew
Guest
On 7/18/2021 6:32 PM, bruce bowser wrote:
Yes, you\'d have to know what else is plugged in, and it\'s not a good
idea to have them both on the same circuit.
Yes, you\'d have to know what else is plugged in, and it\'s not a good
idea to have them both on the same circuit.
M
Michael Trew
Guest
On 7/18/2021 6:32 PM, bruce bowser wrote:
Yes, you\'d have to know what else is plugged in, and it\'s not a good
idea to have them both on the same circuit.
Yes, you\'d have to know what else is plugged in, and it\'s not a good
idea to have them both on the same circuit.
R
Rheilly Phoull
Guest
On 19/07/2021 8:48 am, Michael Trew wrote:
Yup, and the ratings of the circuits etc.
Yup, and the ratings of the circuits etc.
C
Cydrome Leader
Guest
Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote:
Ha, missed the dates on this. I wonder if that fan still works.
On 03/04/2021 19:34, Cydrome Leader wrote:
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com> wrote:
On Monday, November 24, 2014 at 7:57:17 AM UTC-5, Jeff Layman wrote:
I have a 6-months old Fantasia ceiling fan (mains powered, with 6-speed
reversible dc motor) which is causing a lot of interference on MW. FM
is not affected. The interference is there on forward or reverse
rotation, worsens as the speed is increased,, and appears on portable as
well as mains-powered radios.
I can return it to the supplier for replacement or refund, but it is a
bit of a rigmarole to remove and refit. All the electronics are sealed
in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there
any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the
mains wiring before I take it down?
U need an isolated ground receptacle. Used to combat noise interference with audio and video, it must be supplied by a metal raceway or cable system that is an equipment grounding conductor. Connect it past any panelboards and absolutely do not connect it to the panelboard grounding terminal bar, but to independent 3 x 6 ft. independent copper rods completely driven into the ground.
(As per code NEC 517.16 Use of Isolated Ground Receptacles
\"The grounding terminal on the isolated ground receptacle must be connected by an insulated equipment grounding conductor with one or more yellow stripes which is permitted to pass through one or more panelboards without a connection to the panelboard grounding terminal bar as permitted in 408.40 ...)
why would a ceiling fan plug into a receptacle? This suggestion is just
dumb.
There\'s no harm in trying a filter, but checking the quality of your
grounding also doesn\'t hurt, make sure neutral and hot are not reversed
etc. It still just sounds like a cheaply made motor drive.
That\'s the first time I\'ve had an old post resurrected by Google Groups!
My OP was over 6 years ago. FWIW the interference was stopped by using a
delta suppression filter and a ferrite ring.
Ha, missed the dates on this. I wonder if that fan still works.
J
Jeff Layman
Guest
On 04/04/2021 20:02, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Yep. It\'s on almost continuously at low speed to keep the air moving
around and prevent mould growth.
--
Jeff
Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 03/04/2021 19:34, Cydrome Leader wrote:
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com> wrote:
On Monday, November 24, 2014 at 7:57:17 AM UTC-5, Jeff Layman wrote:
I have a 6-months old Fantasia ceiling fan (mains powered, with 6-speed
reversible dc motor) which is causing a lot of interference on MW. FM
is not affected. The interference is there on forward or reverse
rotation, worsens as the speed is increased,, and appears on portable as
well as mains-powered radios.
I can return it to the supplier for replacement or refund, but it is a
bit of a rigmarole to remove and refit. All the electronics are sealed
in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there
any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the
mains wiring before I take it down?
U need an isolated ground receptacle. Used to combat noise interference with audio and video, it must be supplied by a metal raceway or cable system that is an equipment grounding conductor. Connect it past any panelboards and absolutely do not connect it to the panelboard grounding terminal bar, but to independent 3 x 6 ft. independent copper rods completely driven into the ground.
(As per code NEC 517.16 Use of Isolated Ground Receptacles
\"The grounding terminal on the isolated ground receptacle must be connected by an insulated equipment grounding conductor with one or more yellow stripes which is permitted to pass through one or more panelboards without a connection to the panelboard grounding terminal bar as permitted in 408.40 ...)
why would a ceiling fan plug into a receptacle? This suggestion is just
dumb.
There\'s no harm in trying a filter, but checking the quality of your
grounding also doesn\'t hurt, make sure neutral and hot are not reversed
etc. It still just sounds like a cheaply made motor drive.
That\'s the first time I\'ve had an old post resurrected by Google Groups!
My OP was over 6 years ago. FWIW the interference was stopped by using a
delta suppression filter and a ferrite ring.
Ha, missed the dates on this. I wonder if that fan still works.
Yep. It\'s on almost continuously at low speed to keep the air moving
around and prevent mould growth.
--
Jeff
J
Jeff Layman
Guest
On 04/04/2021 20:02, Cydrome Leader wrote:
Yep. It\'s on almost continuously at low speed to keep the air moving
around and prevent mould growth.
--
Jeff
Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote:
On 03/04/2021 19:34, Cydrome Leader wrote:
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com> wrote:
On Monday, November 24, 2014 at 7:57:17 AM UTC-5, Jeff Layman wrote:
I have a 6-months old Fantasia ceiling fan (mains powered, with 6-speed
reversible dc motor) which is causing a lot of interference on MW. FM
is not affected. The interference is there on forward or reverse
rotation, worsens as the speed is increased,, and appears on portable as
well as mains-powered radios.
I can return it to the supplier for replacement or refund, but it is a
bit of a rigmarole to remove and refit. All the electronics are sealed
in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there
any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the
mains wiring before I take it down?
U need an isolated ground receptacle. Used to combat noise interference with audio and video, it must be supplied by a metal raceway or cable system that is an equipment grounding conductor. Connect it past any panelboards and absolutely do not connect it to the panelboard grounding terminal bar, but to independent 3 x 6 ft. independent copper rods completely driven into the ground.
(As per code NEC 517.16 Use of Isolated Ground Receptacles
\"The grounding terminal on the isolated ground receptacle must be connected by an insulated equipment grounding conductor with one or more yellow stripes which is permitted to pass through one or more panelboards without a connection to the panelboard grounding terminal bar as permitted in 408.40 ...)
why would a ceiling fan plug into a receptacle? This suggestion is just
dumb.
There\'s no harm in trying a filter, but checking the quality of your
grounding also doesn\'t hurt, make sure neutral and hot are not reversed
etc. It still just sounds like a cheaply made motor drive.
That\'s the first time I\'ve had an old post resurrected by Google Groups!
My OP was over 6 years ago. FWIW the interference was stopped by using a
delta suppression filter and a ferrite ring.
Ha, missed the dates on this. I wonder if that fan still works.
Yep. It\'s on almost continuously at low speed to keep the air moving
around and prevent mould growth.
--
Jeff
A
amdx
Guest
On 11/25/2014 1:26 PM, Jeff Layman wrote:
I could follow the electrical line
using my AM radio all the way to the circuit breaker panel. This became
a problem when I installed an
active antenna about 50ft from the light. My fix was to install a Corcom
line filter near the light, The Corcom
line filter may or may not have been over kill, but, it was in my junk
box, so I used it. It did the job.
 After a house rebuild (hurricane) we installed 5 new outdoor light, I
bought two different models at Lowes.
brought them home and tested them with my AM radio, I picked the quiet
one and bought 4 more for the house.
Mikek
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
 I had a outdoor IR light that radiated from the light into the house.
I could follow the electrical line
using my AM radio all the way to the circuit breaker panel. This became
a problem when I installed an
active antenna about 50ft from the light. My fix was to install a Corcom
line filter near the light, The Corcom
line filter may or may not have been over kill, but, it was in my junk
box, so I used it. It did the job.
 After a house rebuild (hurricane) we installed 5 new outdoor light, I
bought two different models at Lowes.
brought them home and tested them with my AM radio, I picked the quiet
one and bought 4 more for the house.
Mikek
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
A
amdx
Guest
On 11/25/2014 1:26 PM, Jeff Layman wrote:
I could follow the electrical line
using my AM radio all the way to the circuit breaker panel. This became
a problem when I installed an
active antenna about 50ft from the light. My fix was to install a Corcom
line filter near the light, The Corcom
line filter may or may not have been over kill, but, it was in my junk
box, so I used it. It did the job.
 After a house rebuild (hurricane) we installed 5 new outdoor light, I
bought two different models at Lowes.
brought them home and tested them with my AM radio, I picked the quiet
one and bought 4 more for the house.
Mikek
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
 I had a outdoor IR light that radiated from the light into the house.
I could follow the electrical line
using my AM radio all the way to the circuit breaker panel. This became
a problem when I installed an
active antenna about 50ft from the light. My fix was to install a Corcom
line filter near the light, The Corcom
line filter may or may not have been over kill, but, it was in my junk
box, so I used it. It did the job.
 After a house rebuild (hurricane) we installed 5 new outdoor light, I
bought two different models at Lowes.
brought them home and tested them with my AM radio, I picked the quiet
one and bought 4 more for the house.
Mikek
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
https://www.avast.com/antivirus
N
N_Cook
Guest
On 04/02/2021 13:42, Branislav Drengubiak wrote:
Interesting info , I\'ve downloaded for later .
Just got back to this tide-gauge project, the optics part of it anyway.
The bored hole through the lens has to be offset from centre by the
half-inch of the separation of the laser output port and the centre of
the large lens. Also covering over the small inset lens, so as not to
confuse the range setting procedure.
Some stainless steel \"reusable drinks straws\" I found for guiding the
laser thru the lens without side-scatter being returned to the receiving
lens. Just trying out a pan of water , shrouded against false returns,
to check out over 20 metres initially. For real over tidal water comes
later.
--
Global sea level rise to 2100 from curve-fitted existing altimetry data
<http://diverse.4mg.com/slr.htm>
Interesting info , I\'ve downloaded for later .
Just got back to this tide-gauge project, the optics part of it anyway.
The bored hole through the lens has to be offset from centre by the
half-inch of the separation of the laser output port and the centre of
the large lens. Also covering over the small inset lens, so as not to
confuse the range setting procedure.
Some stainless steel \"reusable drinks straws\" I found for guiding the
laser thru the lens without side-scatter being returned to the receiving
lens. Just trying out a pan of water , shrouded against false returns,
to check out over 20 metres initially. For real over tidal water comes
later.
--
Global sea level rise to 2100 from curve-fitted existing altimetry data
<http://diverse.4mg.com/slr.htm>
B
bruce bowser
Guest
On Sunday, July 18, 2021 at 8:52:20 PM UTC-4, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Including the distance covered by the wires? from the service\'s interface to the outlet?
Including the distance covered by the wires? from the service\'s interface to the outlet?
B
bruce bowser
Guest
On Sunday, July 18, 2021 at 8:52:20 PM UTC-4, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
Including the distance covered by the wires? from the service\'s interface to the outlet?
Including the distance covered by the wires? from the service\'s interface to the outlet?
J
John Robertson
Guest
On 2014/11/24 4:57 a.m., Jeff Layman wrote:
Some ferrite clamp-on filters might help if you can get at the power
lines close to the source...
If the junction box has enough room install a sheilded RFI filter like this:
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/filter/power-line-filter-modules/838
Select for current, voltage, etc and you will see suitable units
starting around 10USD. I don\'t know your lines voltage or frequency so
that too you have to plug in...
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John\'s Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
\"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out.\"
Some ferrite clamp-on filters might help if you can get at the power
lines close to the source...
If the junction box has enough room install a sheilded RFI filter like this:
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/filter/power-line-filter-modules/838
Select for current, voltage, etc and you will see suitable units
starting around 10USD. I don\'t know your lines voltage or frequency so
that too you have to plug in...
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John\'s Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
\"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out.\"
J
John Robertson
Guest
On 2014/11/24 4:57 a.m., Jeff Layman wrote:
Some ferrite clamp-on filters might help if you can get at the power
lines close to the source...
If the junction box has enough room install a sheilded RFI filter like this:
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/filter/power-line-filter-modules/838
Select for current, voltage, etc and you will see suitable units
starting around 10USD. I don\'t know your lines voltage or frequency so
that too you have to plug in...
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John\'s Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
\"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out.\"
Some ferrite clamp-on filters might help if you can get at the power
lines close to the source...
If the junction box has enough room install a sheilded RFI filter like this:
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/filter/power-line-filter-modules/838
Select for current, voltage, etc and you will see suitable units
starting around 10USD. I don\'t know your lines voltage or frequency so
that too you have to plug in...
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John\'s Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
\"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out.\"
P
Peter W.
Guest
No need to know what else may be plugged into the circuit, as there is much else to consider first:
a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.
c) Most recent (modern) window units come with a GFI device mounted on the plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.
d) Never, ever use an extension cord with a window AC unit. Ever.
With these in mind:
Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will know what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.
Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a rental, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-needed. They will not go to waste.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.
c) Most recent (modern) window units come with a GFI device mounted on the plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.
d) Never, ever use an extension cord with a window AC unit. Ever.
With these in mind:
Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will know what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.
Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a rental, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-needed. They will not go to waste.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
P
Peter W.
Guest
No need to know what else may be plugged into the circuit, as there is much else to consider first:
a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.
c) Most recent (modern) window units come with a GFI device mounted on the plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.
d) Never, ever use an extension cord with a window AC unit. Ever.
With these in mind:
Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will know what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.
Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a rental, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-needed. They will not go to waste.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.
c) Most recent (modern) window units come with a GFI device mounted on the plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.
d) Never, ever use an extension cord with a window AC unit. Ever.
With these in mind:
Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will know what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.
Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a rental, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-needed. They will not go to waste.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
O
ohg...@gmail.com
Guest
On Friday, April 30, 2021 at 11:56:37 PM UTC-4, Max D. wrote:
I went through everything I have including scrapped plasma sustain boards, and all the big plastic transistors I have are power mosfets. Sorry. What I would do is use DigiKey or Mouser\'s search parameter to select a suitable replacement.
I went through everything I have including scrapped plasma sustain boards, and all the big plastic transistors I have are power mosfets. Sorry. What I would do is use DigiKey or Mouser\'s search parameter to select a suitable replacement.