Level 1 Charger Plug...

[ohg...@gmail.com]

On Friday, April 30, 2021 at 11:56:37 PM UTC-4, Max D. wrote:

On Saturday, April 17, 2021 at 12:37:19 AM UTC-4, Rich wrote:
ohg...@gmail.com <ohg...@gmail.com> wrote:

Which case style do you have?
Thanks for the offer. The old 1M30D-060 is a To-3PF, I believe, with the low profile upper half.

I went through everything I have including scrapped plasma sustain boards, and all the big plastic transistors I have are power mosfets. Sorry. What I would do is use DigiKey or Mouser\'s search parameter to select a suitable replacement.

 

[Guest]

AWESOME !!

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[Peter W.]

On Thursday, June 12, 2008 at 11:51:40 PM UTC-4, Wilton Itamoto wrote:

I am currently working on a Panasonic microwave oven model NN-S762WF. I need
the part# for Q702 on the inverter board. The transistor is burnt and I
cannot read the number on the case. Unfortunately I do not have another
inverter board on hand and Panasonic does not provide the schematic.
Anyone replaced one of these or know the part number?

There is always this - if you can find a data-sheet.

https://alltransistors.com/mosfet/

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Bennett]

On 7/19/2021 9:49 AM, Peter W. wrote:

No need to know what else may be plugged into the circuit, as there is much else to consider first:

a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge. This is well within the capacities of a standard 15A or 20A circuit breaker - AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS. *And as long as the breaker is functioning properly*.
c) Most recent (modern) window units come with a GFI device mounted on the plug. So there should be no intrinsic danger of fire or overheating.
d) Never, ever use an extension cord with a window AC unit. Ever.

With these in mind:

Plug them in, and let them rip. Should a circuit breaker blow, you will know what is shared. Remove those shared items and start over. If both units happen to be on the same circuit, use only one (1) at a time.

Ideally any AC line should be (at least) a dedicated 20A circuit using (at least) 12-gauge wire. Then there would be no discussion. If this is a rental, I feel her pain. If this is owned, install the dedicated circuits as-needed. They will not go to waste.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

It\'s easy enough to determine if the 2 sockets are on the same circuit.
Plug a lamp or radio into both, then flip circuit breakers. If both
devices stop, they are on the same circuit.

 

[Guest]

AWESOME !!

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For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/actual-price-gallon-for-12-hasa-pool-chlorine-for-sms-and-799652-.htm

 

[Phil Allison]

Peter Wanker puked:
=================

a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge.

** But increase to 76A if both units come on together.
Current 16 times over nominal has a trip time of 0.1 seconds.

( C type breaker)

............. Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

Peter Wanker puked:
=================

a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge.

** But increase to 76A if both units come on together.
Current 16 times over nominal has a trip time of 0.1 seconds.

( C type breaker)

............. Phil

 

[Peter W.]

On Thursday, June 3, 2021 at 2:34:11 PM UTC-4, Guest wrote:

AWESOME !!

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/actual-price-gallon-for-12-hasa-pool-chlorine-for-sms-and-799652-.htm

From 2014!

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Rheilly Phoull]

On 20/07/2021 12:14 am, bruce bowser wrote:

On Sunday, July 18, 2021 at 8:52:20 PM UTC-4, Rheilly Phoull wrote:
On 19/07/2021 8:48 am, Michael Trew wrote:
On 7/18/2021 6:32 PM, bruce bowser wrote:
On Wednesday, July 14, 2021 at 4:53:53 PM UTC-4, Boris wrote in
alt.home.repair:
My daughter wants to install a window type A/C in two different rooms in
her home. She has no idea if the units she\'s looking at, which draw 4.9
amps (115v), would overload any particular circuit. Without mapping the
circuits, is there any way to know, other than plugging the unit in?

What else is plugged into the circuit?


Yes, you\'d have to know what else is plugged in, and it\'s not a good
idea to have them both on the same circuit.
Yup, and the ratings of the circuits etc.

Including the distance covered by the wires? from the service\'s interface to the outlet?

Not really, the cable should be rated for the distance which in domestic
situations is not great.

 

[bruce bowser]

On Monday, November 24, 2014 at 7:57:17 AM UTC-5, Jeff Layman wrote:

I have a 6-months old Fantasia ceiling fan (mains powered, with 6-speed
reversible dc motor) which is causing a lot of interference on MW. FM
is not affected. The interference is there on forward or reverse
rotation, worsens as the speed is increased,, and appears on portable as
well as mains-powered radios.

I can return it to the supplier for replacement or refund, but it is a
bit of a rigmarole to remove and refit. All the electronics are sealed
in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there
any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the
mains wiring before I take it down?

U need an isolated ground receptacle. Used to combat noise interference with audio and video, it must be supplied by a metal raceway or cable system that is an equipment grounding conductor. Connect it past any panelboards and absolutely do not connect it to the panelboard grounding terminal bar, but to independent 3 x 6 ft. independent copper rods completely driven into the ground.

(As per code NEC 517.16 Use of Isolated Ground Receptacles
\"The grounding terminal on the isolated ground receptacle must be connected by an insulated equipment grounding conductor with one or more yellow stripes which is permitted to pass through one or more panelboards without a connection to the panelboard grounding terminal bar as permitted in 408.40 ....)

 

[bruce bowser]

On Monday, November 24, 2014 at 7:57:17 AM UTC-5, Jeff Layman wrote:

I have a 6-months old Fantasia ceiling fan (mains powered, with 6-speed
reversible dc motor) which is causing a lot of interference on MW. FM
is not affected. The interference is there on forward or reverse
rotation, worsens as the speed is increased,, and appears on portable as
well as mains-powered radios.

I can return it to the supplier for replacement or refund, but it is a
bit of a rigmarole to remove and refit. All the electronics are sealed
in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there
any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the
mains wiring before I take it down?

U need an isolated ground receptacle. Used to combat noise interference with audio and video, it must be supplied by a metal raceway or cable system that is an equipment grounding conductor. Connect it past any panelboards and absolutely do not connect it to the panelboard grounding terminal bar, but to independent 3 x 6 ft. independent copper rods completely driven into the ground.

(As per code NEC 517.16 Use of Isolated Ground Receptacles
\"The grounding terminal on the isolated ground receptacle must be connected by an insulated equipment grounding conductor with one or more yellow stripes which is permitted to pass through one or more panelboards without a connection to the panelboard grounding terminal bar as permitted in 408.40 ....)

 

[Peter W.]

Result is exactly the same. If the breaker trips - reduce/eliminate the ancillary load(s).
Nor can you read for content \"AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS\".
In the USA, C-type breakers are used in specialty applications, generally not in a residential setting. Breakers here would be, typically, type A (plain), GFCI *breaker* (as compared to a GFI *device) and AFCI breakers. Within that group are many variants that describe how they are installed.
Domestic breakers are available with a \"high\" current setting that will allow up to 20X rating for up to one (1) full second. They are expensive. I have used them several times to support wood shops and machine shops for \'heavy\' hobbyists and wood workers. Never for \'regular\' stuff.

Point being that nothing changes. Plug in the units - see if the breaker trips. If it does, adjust the load accordingly. And NEVER run both at the same time.

Learn to read.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Peter W.]

Result is exactly the same. If the breaker trips - reduce/eliminate the ancillary load(s).
Nor can you read for content \"AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS\".
In the USA, C-type breakers are used in specialty applications, generally not in a residential setting. Breakers here would be, typically, type A (plain), GFCI *breaker* (as compared to a GFI *device) and AFCI breakers. Within that group are many variants that describe how they are installed.
Domestic breakers are available with a \"high\" current setting that will allow up to 20X rating for up to one (1) full second. They are expensive. I have used them several times to support wood shops and machine shops for \'heavy\' hobbyists and wood workers. Never for \'regular\' stuff.

Point being that nothing changes. Plug in the units - see if the breaker trips. If it does, adjust the load accordingly. And NEVER run both at the same time.

Learn to read.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Phil Allison]

Peter W. wrote:
============

Result is exactly the same. If the breaker trips - reduce/eliminate the ancillary load(s).
Nor can you read for content \"AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS\".

** Irrelevant, my point did not need them.


> In the USA, C-type breakers are used in specialty applications,

** Really? They the standard in every other place for GPOs.

> Domestic breakers are available with a \"high\" current setting that will allow up to 20X rating for up to one (1) full second.

** Yep - that is similar to a D type.

Used where large ( or multiple) motor loads are expected.

Point being that nothing changes. Plug in the units - see if the breaker trips. If it does, adjust the load accordingly.
And NEVER run both at the same time.

** Yawwnnnnnnn ....

A pair of window units in two separate rooms are ** GONNA** be run on the same hot day or night !!!

You tedious fucking wanker.



....... Phil

 

[Phil Allison]

Peter W. wrote:
============

Result is exactly the same. If the breaker trips - reduce/eliminate the ancillary load(s).
Nor can you read for content \"AS LONG AS THERE ARE NO OTHER LOADS\".

** Irrelevant, my point did not need them.


> In the USA, C-type breakers are used in specialty applications,

** Really? They the standard in every other place for GPOs.

> Domestic breakers are available with a \"high\" current setting that will allow up to 20X rating for up to one (1) full second.

** Yep - that is similar to a D type.

Used where large ( or multiple) motor loads are expected.

Point being that nothing changes. Plug in the units - see if the breaker trips. If it does, adjust the load accordingly.
And NEVER run both at the same time.

** Yawwnnnnnnn ....

A pair of window units in two separate rooms are ** GONNA** be run on the same hot day or night !!!

You tedious fucking wanker.



....... Phil

 

[Peter W.]

You always have a point. And, sadly, proper tonsorial attention is no longer an option for you.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

 

[Curly Valentine]

On Sunday, May 3, 2020 at 11:34:55 AM UTC-7, jjhu...@gmail.com wrote:

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 4:43:08 PM UTC-4, jjhu...@gmail.com wrote:
Following up on my repair effort, I\'ll document what I found in case anyone going down this road stumbles on this writeup.

In short the unit uses a Peltier module heat pump to both heat and cool the yogurt container. The Peltier module was bad in my unit - gave a constant ~30K ohms reading, connected it to a 12vdc battery source, no heat what so ever.
The module is a TEC1-12705.
To my surprise none of the usual electron parts houses have them (Mouser, Digikey, avnet, allied, newark, etc.) Amazon has them ranging in price from $6 to $10 from varying sources and from what I see in the reviews, all parts are of questionable quality. To my surprise, they are available through Walmart!
Not sure where to get the OEM part - suggestions? pointers appreciated.

Description of the unit, it contains:
1) 5 VDC 6A smps, which feeds a...
2) a 2\"x3\" micro based control module that contains connections for: the Peltier module, a rtd/thermister temp sensor, power supply input.
3) the heat/cool stack composed of 1.25\" aluminum heat block encased in styrofoam, the peltier module, a massive Al finned heatsink (5\"x 2.5\") and a 3\" fan bolted to the finned heatsink.

Getting the unit apart is a little tricky because it has 4 plastic fingers that lock the bottom half of the unit to the top half - need to simultaneously unlock all four tabs then separate the top and bottom.

Couldn\'t see any obvious design or implementation screwups, although I question why there is a 1.25\" thick piece of aluminum between the Peltier module and the bottom of the yogurt container. I\'ll need to do some heat transfer calcs to see if they are controlling the module correctly and take some temp measurements to infer their desired (required) heating and cooling temps.

From what I could tell on the scope the output to the Peltier module was fairly smooth DC voltage that is (my guess) a LPF PWM output to a power transistor (MOSFET?) from the microcontroller The markings on the chip were unreadable due to some clear coat that was put on the chip. A lot of speculation here since I could not read a lot of the component markings. My googlefu failed to turn up anything about the components, although the PS looks like it is an off the shelf module from somewhere.


Next step is to get the replacement Peltier module, perhaps upgrade the thermal silicon grease, and reassemble.
J
Last follow-up on my repair.
The Peltier module I got from Amazon seller did not conform to the general rule that the \'hot side\' is the side that has the p/n printed on it. Mine was opposite, which I did not find out until I had the unit reassembled and tried it. The module broke when I tried to remove it - the thermal grease made it very difficult to remove. Ordered a second module.
When I got the replacement, I tried it before putting the thermal grease on it and assembling it.
I connected the red wire of the Peltier module to the \'+V out\' on the controller board, and the black wire of the module to the \'-V out\' on the controller. Powered up the unit and started a cycle. The first thing that is suppose to happen is a heating phase (default time of 8 hrs but is configurable) followed by a cooling phase. I started a cycle, felt the module for the heat side, and then mounted that head side against the thermal plate on the \'container side\' of the unit. The voltage sent to the Peltier module is 12 VDC. A quick check of the control module is to start a cycle and measure the voltage. at the +Vout and -Vout pins.

Once the heating/cooling side was determined, I reassembled the unit. A word of caution: the massive heat sink in the \'bottom half\' of the unit is held in by four machine screws. ( this heat sink comes into play when the unit goes to a cooling phase and changes polarity on the Peltier module).
The machine screws had silicon rubber spread on top of them, presumably to deter any repair. You will have to scrape it out of the fillips screw heads to get a bite with a screw driver. Once out, the rest can be removed with a wire brush.
The heat sink has rubber spacers on each end of the heat sink. Do not remove these. When reassembling, do not overtighten the screws when installing the heat sink. Try to remember how \'loose\' they were when you removed them and tighten them to about the same level. I made mine snug to the point that there was just a little resistance from the rubber spacers. If the screws are overtightened, it could crack/damage the module. A good application of thermal grease here is important.

I got the replacements from seller on Amazon and prices range from ~$2/part to ~12/part. Comments for any of the parts ranged from good to junk...no matter what the price. I paid $6. I called Laird who makes TEC modules and they have a cross that sells for $32 at mouser. I decided to try the $6 part and see what happens. If it dies, I may go for the expensive one but Cuisenart will replace the unit for $25+10 ship so it probably isn\'t worth the effort and cost. YMMV.
I didn\'t see any obvious design or implementation flubs (that I could easily correct). I do question why the metal block to the yogurt well was over 1 inch long.

Hope this info helps someone.
J

Very helpful - to clarify - was your repair successful, and is it still running? What is the Cuisinart replacement? The whole yogurt maker? or just the TEC?

 

[Curly Valentine]

On Sunday, May 3, 2020 at 11:34:55 AM UTC-7, jjhu...@gmail.com wrote:

On Sunday, April 19, 2020 at 4:43:08 PM UTC-4, jjhu...@gmail.com wrote:
Following up on my repair effort, I\'ll document what I found in case anyone going down this road stumbles on this writeup.

In short the unit uses a Peltier module heat pump to both heat and cool the yogurt container. The Peltier module was bad in my unit - gave a constant ~30K ohms reading, connected it to a 12vdc battery source, no heat what so ever.
The module is a TEC1-12705.
To my surprise none of the usual electron parts houses have them (Mouser, Digikey, avnet, allied, newark, etc.) Amazon has them ranging in price from $6 to $10 from varying sources and from what I see in the reviews, all parts are of questionable quality. To my surprise, they are available through Walmart!
Not sure where to get the OEM part - suggestions? pointers appreciated.

Description of the unit, it contains:
1) 5 VDC 6A smps, which feeds a...
2) a 2\"x3\" micro based control module that contains connections for: the Peltier module, a rtd/thermister temp sensor, power supply input.
3) the heat/cool stack composed of 1.25\" aluminum heat block encased in styrofoam, the peltier module, a massive Al finned heatsink (5\"x 2.5\") and a 3\" fan bolted to the finned heatsink.

Getting the unit apart is a little tricky because it has 4 plastic fingers that lock the bottom half of the unit to the top half - need to simultaneously unlock all four tabs then separate the top and bottom.

Couldn\'t see any obvious design or implementation screwups, although I question why there is a 1.25\" thick piece of aluminum between the Peltier module and the bottom of the yogurt container. I\'ll need to do some heat transfer calcs to see if they are controlling the module correctly and take some temp measurements to infer their desired (required) heating and cooling temps.

From what I could tell on the scope the output to the Peltier module was fairly smooth DC voltage that is (my guess) a LPF PWM output to a power transistor (MOSFET?) from the microcontroller The markings on the chip were unreadable due to some clear coat that was put on the chip. A lot of speculation here since I could not read a lot of the component markings. My googlefu failed to turn up anything about the components, although the PS looks like it is an off the shelf module from somewhere.


Next step is to get the replacement Peltier module, perhaps upgrade the thermal silicon grease, and reassemble.
J
Last follow-up on my repair.
The Peltier module I got from Amazon seller did not conform to the general rule that the \'hot side\' is the side that has the p/n printed on it. Mine was opposite, which I did not find out until I had the unit reassembled and tried it. The module broke when I tried to remove it - the thermal grease made it very difficult to remove. Ordered a second module.
When I got the replacement, I tried it before putting the thermal grease on it and assembling it.
I connected the red wire of the Peltier module to the \'+V out\' on the controller board, and the black wire of the module to the \'-V out\' on the controller. Powered up the unit and started a cycle. The first thing that is suppose to happen is a heating phase (default time of 8 hrs but is configurable) followed by a cooling phase. I started a cycle, felt the module for the heat side, and then mounted that head side against the thermal plate on the \'container side\' of the unit. The voltage sent to the Peltier module is 12 VDC. A quick check of the control module is to start a cycle and measure the voltage. at the +Vout and -Vout pins.

Once the heating/cooling side was determined, I reassembled the unit. A word of caution: the massive heat sink in the \'bottom half\' of the unit is held in by four machine screws. ( this heat sink comes into play when the unit goes to a cooling phase and changes polarity on the Peltier module).
The machine screws had silicon rubber spread on top of them, presumably to deter any repair. You will have to scrape it out of the fillips screw heads to get a bite with a screw driver. Once out, the rest can be removed with a wire brush.
The heat sink has rubber spacers on each end of the heat sink. Do not remove these. When reassembling, do not overtighten the screws when installing the heat sink. Try to remember how \'loose\' they were when you removed them and tighten them to about the same level. I made mine snug to the point that there was just a little resistance from the rubber spacers. If the screws are overtightened, it could crack/damage the module. A good application of thermal grease here is important.

I got the replacements from seller on Amazon and prices range from ~$2/part to ~12/part. Comments for any of the parts ranged from good to junk...no matter what the price. I paid $6. I called Laird who makes TEC modules and they have a cross that sells for $32 at mouser. I decided to try the $6 part and see what happens. If it dies, I may go for the expensive one but Cuisenart will replace the unit for $25+10 ship so it probably isn\'t worth the effort and cost. YMMV.
I didn\'t see any obvious design or implementation flubs (that I could easily correct). I do question why the metal block to the yogurt well was over 1 inch long.

Hope this info helps someone.
J

Very helpful - to clarify - was your repair successful, and is it still running? What is the Cuisinart replacement? The whole yogurt maker? or just the TEC?

 

[amdx]

On 7/19/2021 6:16 PM, Phil Allison wrote:

Peter Wanker puked:
=================
a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge.
** But increase to 76A if both units come on together.
Current 16 times over nominal has a trip time of 0.1 seconds.

( C type breaker)

............ Phil

  I had good luck with multiple freezers on one circuit breaker. I had
twelve-25cuft freezers on 5 circuit breakers, over 15 years

I never had a a circuit breaker trip. I was always waiting for two
freezers to start at the same time, but they never did.

I did have two freezers plugged into original house wiring, a bad
connection developed at one outlet (35 years old),

this bad connection got hot enough to create an odor.

The odor came and when over a couple days before I isolated it to an
outlet. When I took it apart the outlet crumble into pieces.

I was lucky to avoid a fire.

                                  Mikek


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[amdx]

On 7/19/2021 6:16 PM, Phil Allison wrote:

Peter Wanker puked:
=================
a) Given a 4.9A steady-state current draw at 115 VAC, that comes to 563 watts. Less than a standard hair-dryer (~1,200 watts). No big deal, even for a 15A conventional circuit (1,725 watts). Even one that shares a few other small things.
b) Given that the typical surge for a conventional AC unit is very roughly eight (8) times the steady-state, the circuit must be able to withstand a very roughly 38 amp surge.
** But increase to 76A if both units come on together.
Current 16 times over nominal has a trip time of 0.1 seconds.

( C type breaker)

............ Phil

  I had good luck with multiple freezers on one circuit breaker. I had
twelve-25cuft freezers on 5 circuit breakers, over 15 years

I never had a a circuit breaker trip. I was always waiting for two
freezers to start at the same time, but they never did.

I did have two freezers plugged into original house wiring, a bad
connection developed at one outlet (35 years old),

this bad connection got hot enough to create an odor.

The odor came and when over a couple days before I isolated it to an
outlet. When I took it apart the outlet crumble into pieces.

I was lucky to avoid a fire.

                                  Mikek


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This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
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