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stick with the STIFF toothbrushes, they have rounded bristles andOn Fri, 16 Mar 2012 06:41:06 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote:
After reading this thread, I'm inclined to feel that nothing can be done..
Specifically, the adhesives have so deeply attacked and/or bonded with the
styrene component of the ABS, that Nothing Can Be Done.
Ye of little faith. I think it's cleanable because I've cleaned
similar sticky rubberish goo from plastic in the past, without much
difficulty. The difference here is that the plastic surface is
textured, and seems to be trapping the goo. Cleaning a textured
surface is a problem that I see all too often. However, my quest for
the ultimate solvent may be futile. What I probably should be looking
for is a better technique or tools. I'll be investigating brushes,
rags, microfiber, mild heating, and such today. I think the various
label remover products are adequate.
You can get a 4M cheap. Mine is 20+ years old and still running fine. It's
not as fast as newer machines, but the quality is impeccable. You should see
the way it prints the eensy-teensy text on Disney discount coupons. And it's
PostScript, which means that finding a usable driver is no problem.
The LJ 4m is ancient. It's basically a repackaged LaserJet 4. 8ppm
is much too slow for my customers. The 2300 is 24 ppm and starts
printing about 8 seconds from standby. The 2300d will print on both
sides of the page at 1200dpi (with the PCL6 driver). It also does
Postscript 3. However, these are not why my customers buy my rebuilt
2200 and 2300 series printers. It's because in standby, they don't
make any fan noise, which means they can be left powered on at home.
If I arrived with an LJ 4m, my typical customer would question my
sanity.
http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/pscmisc/vac/us/product_pdfs/238800.pdf
Typical cost for a 2300d from eBay is $100. I replace all the rubber
parts for $15. A clone 10A 6000 page toner cart is about $25.
Jetdirect network card is $10-$50 depending on type. 128MB additional
RAM for $10. Total expense is usually about $150. I usually spend
about an hour cleaning it. Time to retire the LJ 4m.
--
Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Who is she, and why would she have any better ideas?Magic Scrubber?
I meant Magic Eraser. Sorry.Magic Scrubber?
It's a he. Mr Clean.Who is she, and why would she have any better ideas?
Possibly dunking it in a large ultrasonic-cleaner tank would help?Ye of little faith. I think it's cleanable because I've cleaned
similar sticky rubberish goo from plastic in the past, without much
difficulty. The difference here is that the plastic surface is
textured, and seems to be trapping the goo. Cleaning a textured
surface is a problem that I see all too often. However, my quest for
the ultimate solvent may be futile. What I probably should be looking
for is a better technique or tools. I'll be investigating brushes,
rags, microfiber, mild heating, and such today.
Have you tried to actually buy a stiff tooth brush recently? I wentstick with the STIFF toothbrushes, they have rounded bristles and
don't seem to scratch much
Good idea. The cavitation under the rubber might help break it loose.Possibly dunking it in a large ultrasonic-cleaner tank would help?
The scrubbing cavitation bubbles might be able to release the hardened
good from the surface texture.
The real problem with things like sandblasting is that they will happilyOn Thu, 15 Mar 2012 12:47:18 -0700, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
wrote:
In article <upd4m7974l2sm8refk5tu7hqr6rmtmoa59@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
How about sandblasting the offending remnants?
That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting
soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the
material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a
brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle.
Could you take it to a commercial blaster? Any of several techniques
might work: bead blasting, bicarbonate blasting, CO2 pellet blasting.
These ought not to leave a residue, and I'd think that bead blasting
could reproduce a consistent surface texture across the exterior.
I could do that, but I would need to blast all the covers in order to
make the surface finish match. There are also some smooth surfaces
involved, which would need to be masked. I don't know the price of
sandblasting, but I suspect it might approach the cost of replacement.
Somehow, that reminded me of the time one of the programmers tookOn Fri, 16 Mar 2012 11:56:04 -0700, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
wrote:
Possibly dunking it in a large ultrasonic-cleaner tank would help?
The scrubbing cavitation bubbles might be able to release the hardened
good from the surface texture.
Good idea. The cavitation under the rubber might help break it loose.
I don't have anything big enough, but know where I can borrow one (the
local electroplating shop). Hopefully, it's high enough in frequency
to produce sufficiently small soap bubbles.
How about the multi-length brush on an Oral-B electric toothbrush?Have you tried to actually buy a stiff tooth brush recently?
I have some of those (the cheap model with the non-replaceableHave you tried to actually buy a stiff tooth brush recently?
How about the multi-length brush on an Oral-B electric toothbrush?
I don't know if it harms ABS, but I've removed adhesive from ABS withA past owner had embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs,
labels, and rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but
I think he just gave up trying to clean up the printer.
I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus
power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these
soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded
in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I
hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of
destroying the ABS plastic.
<http://www.imperialsupplies.com/msds0040210.shtml>I don't know if it harms ABS, but I've removed adhesive from ABS with
waterless hand cleaner, like Gojo or Goop. It takes a few minutes to
soften the glue.
Another cheap household chemical to try: Hand Sanitizer. BasicallyOn Sun, 18 Mar 2012 13:39:40 -0700 (PDT), "larry moe 'n curly"
larrymoencurly@my-deja.com> wrote:
I don't know if it harms ABS, but I've removed adhesive from ABS with
waterless hand cleaner, like Gojo or Goop. It takes a few minutes to
soften the glue.
http://www.imperialsupplies.com/msds0040210.shtml
Mineral Spirits
Propylene Glycol
I've already tried mineral spirits. It didn't work on the rubberish
goo imbedded in the textured surface. However, it can't hurt to try
Goop as I have some handy.
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:37:33 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:
stick with the STIFF toothbrushes, they have rounded bristles and
don't seem to scratch much
Have you tried to actually buy a stiff tooth brush recently?
I tried a variety of brushes with what seems to be the most effectiveJeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:37:33 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:
stick with the STIFF toothbrushes, they have rounded bristles and
don't seem to scratch much
Have you tried to actually buy a stiff tooth brush recently?
You want a typewriter or detailing brush. HF sells a set of three:
Nylon, brass & stainless steel that are quite handy around the shop.
They go on sale for 99 cents for the set of three, from time to time.
Laser ablation! Of course, not something one would have sitting aroundOn Tue, 20 Mar 2012 13:18:34 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote:
Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 09:37:33 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
robert.a.macy@gmail.com> wrote:
stick with the STIFF toothbrushes, they have rounded bristles and
don't seem to scratch much
Have you tried to actually buy a stiff tooth brush recently?
You want a typewriter or detailing brush. HF sells a set of three:
Nylon, brass & stainless steel that are quite handy around the shop.
They go on sale for 99 cents for the set of three, from time to time.
I tried a variety of brushes with what seems to be the most effective
solvent, Homax Oops. The stiff plastic brushes were ineffective. The
stiff brass and stainless wires brushes tended to scratch the plastic
surface, so I stopped before I destroyed the case.
I'm having some success with sodium percarbonate (OxiClean) and
hydrogen peroxide 3% bleaches. They're not removing the rubberish
goo, but are doing a fair job of lightening the color, making the case
more presentable.
I was also able to remove some of the goo using sticky packing tape.
The theory was that the glue would stick to the goo better than the
plastic. It removed some, but most of the goo is too thoroughly
embedded in the plastic.
I'm going to give up shortly, and swap plastic parts with my identical
office printer to make the customer happy. It's also time to start
working on my taxes.
No problem. We have various local tech shops that offer their membersLaser ablation! Of course, not something one would have sitting around
in the average garage workshop ...
I think that "says it"....most of the goo is too thoroughly //embedded in the plastic//.