HP Laserjet bumper sticker remover

On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual
price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had
embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and
rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he
just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo
is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps
make the goo more visible.

I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus
power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these
soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded
in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I
hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of
destroying the ABS plastic.

Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and
gum?
Click to expand...
How about sandblasting the offending remnants?

There are moderately inexpensive kits for craft/hobby glass etching that
used "canned air" and also the only slightly more expensive Paasche "air
eraser" kit.

It's not going to be fast (the active spot is roughly 0804-sized) and if
the plastic has already been softened by solvents you might just end up
with dirtier plastic.

One (among many) vendors at
http://www.micromark.com/paasche-air-eraser-mini-sandblast-gun-set,9117.html

Looks like Harbor Freight has a knock-off (surprise!). Video over at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtBaG58P5gc

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
Something just crossed my mind... Is it possible that the adhesives in the
stickers attacked the ABS? That might explain why Goo-Gone doesn't work.
 
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:05:10 -0400, Rich Webb
<bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:

How about sandblasting the offending remnants?
Click to expand...
That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting
soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the
material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a
brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle.

There are moderately inexpensive kits for craft/hobby glass etching that
used "canned air" and also the only slightly more expensive Paasche "air
eraser" kit.
Click to expand...
Well, I have a Paasche air brush. Looks exactly like mine, except it
has a sand bin attached. I really don't want to run sand or glass
beads through the tiny nozzle. It also seems like it would take
several hours to do the job and probably won't remove the rubber goo.
My guess(tm) is that it will simply mix some sand into the rubber
surface goo, without actually removing anything.

It's not going to be fast (the active spot is roughly 0804-sized) and if
the plastic has already been softened by solvents you might just end up
with dirtier plastic.
Click to expand...
Yep.

One (among many) vendors at
http://www.micromark.com/paasche-air-eraser-mini-sandblast-gun-set,9117.html

Looks like Harbor Freight has a knock-off (surprise!). Video over at
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YtBaG58P5gc
Click to expand...
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 18:44:25 +0000 (UTC), Wond <gboot.phil@gmx.com>
wrote:

Paintball goo yields to boiling water from a kettle.
Click to expand...
That's because most of the paintball goo is fish oil, glycerine, and
wax, all of which will melt nicely at fairly low temperatures. The
stuff I'm dealing with is probably a permanent pressure sensitive
adhesive, possibly self vulcanizing rubber plus an accelerator, which
is why it seems to be insoluble. Breaking cross link vulcanization
bonds is not easy. It's much like trying to remove RTV with solvents,
which won't work.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual price.
I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had embalmed the
printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and rubber cement.
Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he just gave up
trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo is still
attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps make the goo
more visible.

I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus
power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these
soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded in
the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I
hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of
destroying the ABS plastic.

Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and
gum?
Click to expand...
Paintball goo yields to boiling water from a kettle.
 
In article <upd4m7974l2sm8refk5tu7hqr6rmtmoa59@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

How about sandblasting the offending remnants?

That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting
soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the
material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a
brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle.
Click to expand...
Could you take it to a commercial blaster? Any of several techniques
might work: bead blasting, bicarbonate blasting, CO2 pellet blasting.
These ought not to leave a residue, and I'd think that bead blasting
could reproduce a consistent surface texture across the exterior.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!
 
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 11:46:03 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 14:05:10 -0400, Rich Webb
bbew.ar@mapson.nozirev.ten> wrote:

How about sandblasting the offending remnants?

That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting
soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the
material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a
brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle.

There are moderately inexpensive kits for craft/hobby glass etching that
used "canned air" and also the only slightly more expensive Paasche "air
eraser" kit.

Well, I have a Paasche air brush. Looks exactly like mine, except it
has a sand bin attached. I really don't want to run sand or glass
beads through the tiny nozzle.
Click to expand...
Good grief, no indeed! The air eraser is airbrush-like in its operation
but the nozzle has a carbide throat and a larger opening.

It also seems like it would take
several hours to do the job and probably won't remove the rubber goo.
My guess(tm) is that it will simply mix some sand into the rubber
surface goo, without actually removing anything.
Click to expand...
Hmmmm... maybe use some freeze-it spray to harden the goo?

It's not going to be fast (the active spot is roughly 0804-sized) and if
the plastic has already been softened by solvents you might just end up
with dirtier plastic.

Yep.
Click to expand...
If the adhesive has chemically bonded to the underlying plastic, your
only option may be to just prime / sand / prime / repaint. There are
crafty tricks with sponges (black anti-static foam may be just right ;-)
to get a textured surface.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA
 
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:44:09 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On 15 Mar 2012 14:15:13 GMT, Allodoxaphobia
knock_yourself_out@example.net> wrote:

Should take less than one can of spray paint -- choose your favorite
color at an auto supply store...

Great idea. Too bad the paint probably won't stick to the remaining
goo on the plastic.

I didn't bother to take a photo before I started, but here's the eBay
page:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130659281942
See the 4 photos furthur down the page. The top cover looked "dirty"
in the photo, which I presumed would be easy to clean. I didn't
realize it was sticky goo residue, impervious to various mild
chemicals. What's not obvious from the photo is that the entire top,
and both sides were coated with the thin layer of the same sticky goo.
It's far worse than it looks in the photos. There were tiny bits of
bumper sticker material left attached to the sticky goo, which is a
clue as to what happened.

On the good side, the price is right, it prints cleanly, is in quite
good condition inside, has done well at 160,000 page, included an
apparently good Jetdirect card, and included a "Bar Codes and More"
ROM. Now, if I can only get it to look nice.
Click to expand...
Well, then ... <chuckle> ... get a handful of bumper stickers
that appeal to _you_ and slap'em on. :)

Jonesy
 
On Mar 15, 3:55 pm, Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_...@example.net>
wrote:
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 08:44:09 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

On the good side, the price is right, it prints cleanly, is in quite
good condition inside, has done well at 160,000 page, included an
apparently good Jetdirect card, and included a "Bar Codes and More"
ROM.  Now, if I can only get it to look nice.

Well, then ... <chuckle> ... get a handful of bumper stickers
that appeal to _you_ and slap'em on.    :)
Click to expand...
Contact paper. I bet they still make fake woodgrain.
 
On Wed, 14 Mar 2012 19:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:

I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual
price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had
embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and
rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he
just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo
is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps
make the goo more visible.

I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus
power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these
soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded
in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I
hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of
destroying the ABS plastic.

Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and
gum?
Click to expand...

It's probably residue from a sticker that they put on demo units in
the retail stores. The sticker lists the features of the printer, and
maybe the price. I have a Laserjet 8100 in the office that has
leftovers from the demo sticker that I have not been able to remove
for years. The coverage isn't nearly as great as that on your printer,
and it's out of the way, so nobody cares.

Over the years, the glue seemed to dry out and is now almost a powder,
but even the usual solvents won't break it. There are a few deep
scratches from someone trying to scrape the residue off.

Since this is a REPAIR group, you could actually replace the plastic
exterior pieces. You can find a comprehensive selection at
PARTSNOW.COM. I have ordered many internal parts and some cosmetic
pieces from them over the years.


Thanks.


Remove the BALONEY from my email address.
-----------------------------------------------------
Matthew Fries Minneapolis, MN USA
freeze@baloneyvisi.com

"Quit eating all my *STUFF*!" - The Tick
 
On Mar 14, 9:07 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual
price.  I soon discovered why it was so cheap.  A past owner had
embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and
rubber cement.  Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he
just gave up trying to clean up the printer.  Much of the glue and goo
is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps
make the goo more visible.

I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus
power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409.  All of these
soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded
in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy.  I
hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of
destroying the ABS plastic.

Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and
gum?

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
#http://802.11junk.com              je...@cruzio.com
#http://www.LearnByDestroying.com              AE6KS
Click to expand...
I would put money on using naptha, it doesn't seem to affect most
plastics and dissolves almost all sticky ceMent residues. I USE IT
FOR EVERYTHING.
 
In article <isw-250A9F.21211314032012@[216.168.3.50]>,
isw <isw@witzend.com> wrote:
In article <2pi2m7ps5j5relf7gbp0vtst3kd7go1pbt@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

I bought an HP LaserJet 2300dtn on eBay for much less than usual
price. I soon discovered why it was so cheap. A past owner had
embalmed the printer in layers of bumper stickers, pogs, labels, and
rubber cement. Most of this was removed by the vendor, but I think he
just gave up trying to clean up the printer. Much of the glue and goo
is still attached to the printer, along with some dirt which helps
make the goo more visible.

I've tried alcohol, paint thinner, Goo Gone sticker lifter (citrus
power), Oops! remover, WD-40, ammonia cleaner, and 409. All of these
soften the gum and goo to various degrees, but leave enough imbedded
in the textured plastic surface to make the printer look filthy. I
hesitate to try a stronger chlorinated hydrocarbon solvent for fear of
destroying the ABS plastic.

Can anyone recommend a favorite solvent or cleaner for sticky goo and
gum?

I've had pretty good success with mineral spirits, but sometimes it
takes a while. First, make sure there's not a left-over plastic film on
top of the adhesive -- if there is, the solvent won't do anything.

Get a folded rag pretty damp with the spirits and drape it over the
printer (you may have to do this one side at the time). As you said,
sometimes the goo just won't dissolve, but it will get soft, so go after
it with a toothbrush (to loosen) and a nearly dry paper towel (to wipe
up); it will load up with goo and need to be replaced fairly often.
Click to expand...
My suggestion: take off the case parts, drape with paper towels or
rags and drizzle with soybean oil. Let soak for a while (a couple of
hours, depending on how stiff the glue is). Wipe off the softened gunk.
Then wash the parts with dish soap. Repeat...

Yea, we eat the stuff.

Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com
Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)
 
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 21:03:44 -0500, Matthew Fries <nobody@home.com>
wrote:

It's probably residue from a sticker that they put on demo units in
the retail stores.
Click to expand...
Nope. This printer has printed 160,000 pages. That must have been a
really long term demo. Judging by what little was left of the actual
label, it was probably a vinyl bumper sticker or multiple smaller
stickers.

The sticker lists the features of the printer, and
maybe the price. I have a Laserjet 8100 in the office that has
leftovers from the demo sticker that I have not been able to remove
for years. The coverage isn't nearly as great as that on your printer,
and it's out of the way, so nobody cares.
Click to expand...
I've seen those on inkjets, laptops, and desktops. The stickers are
little better than graffiti. Many stickers seem to use some form of
"permanent" glue.

Over the years, the glue seemed to dry out and is now almost a powder,
but even the usual solvents won't break it. There are a few deep
scratches from someone trying to scrape the residue off.
Click to expand...
I've also seen the same thing with some labels. The glue turns to
dust and the label falls off. However, the residue left on the
printer is difficult or impossible to remove.

Since this is a REPAIR group, you could actually replace the plastic
exterior pieces. You can find a comprehensive selection at
PARTSNOW.COM. I have ordered many internal parts and some cosmetic
pieces from them over the years.
Click to expand...
I buy most of my printer parts either on eBay or from Printerworks. In
this case, the top cover is $33.
<http://www.printerworks.com/Catalogs/HP-LaserJet-2300/105_2300TopCover.html>
Seems expensive, but I may do that if I can't get the crud off.

I didn't work on the printer today as I was doing service calls.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:03:21 -0700 (PDT), "hrhofmann@att.net"
<hrhofmann@att.net> wrote:

I would put money on using naptha, it doesn't seem to affect most
plastics and dissolves almost all sticky ceMent residues. I USE IT
FOR EVERYTHING.
Click to expand...
That's Coleman camp fuel or white gas. Possibly a bad idea for ABS.

Chemical Compatibility Database
<http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance>
Select "ABS plastic" in the left column.
Select "Naptha" in the right column.
Click on "See Results"
The results say that it's a bad idea.

Another ABS chemical compatibility chart at:
<http://www.k-mac-plastics.net/data%20sheets/abs_chemical_resistance.htm>
says that naptha is ok when cool (20C), but will severely attack ABS
when hot (60C).

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 12:47:18 -0700, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
wrote:

In article <upd4m7974l2sm8refk5tu7hqr6rmtmoa59@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

How about sandblasting the offending remnants?

That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting
soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the
material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a
brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle.

Could you take it to a commercial blaster? Any of several techniques
might work: bead blasting, bicarbonate blasting, CO2 pellet blasting.
These ought not to leave a residue, and I'd think that bead blasting
could reproduce a consistent surface texture across the exterior.
Click to expand...
I could do that, but I would need to blast all the covers in order to
make the surface finish match. There are also some smooth surfaces
involved, which would need to be masked. I don't know the price of
sandblasting, but I suspect it might approach the cost of replacement.

I have a small sandblaster kit and air compressor. I've done plenty
of metal parts, but have never tried plastic. I'll see if I can find
some to sacrifice. Unfortunately, all I have handy is some fairly
coarse hard sand.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
After reading this thread, I'm inclined to feel that nothing can be done.
Specifically, the adhesives have so deeply attacked and/or bonded with the
styrene component of the ABS, that Nothing Can Be Done.

You can get a 4M cheap. Mine is 20+ years old and still running fine. It's
not as fast as newer machines, but the quality is impeccable. You should see
the way it prints the eensy-teensy text on Disney discount coupons. And it's
PostScript, which means that finding a usable driver is no problem.
 
On Mar 15, 11:38 pm, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 19:03:21 -0700 (PDT), "hrhofm...@att.net"

hrhofm...@att.net> wrote:
I would put money on using naptha, it doesn't seem to affect most
plastics and dissolves almost all sticky ceMent residues.  I USE IT
FOR EVERYTHING.

That's Coleman camp fuel or white gas.  Possibly a bad idea for ABS.

Chemical Compatibility Database
http://www.coleparmer.com/Chemical-Resistance
  Select "ABS plastic" in the left column.
  Select "Naptha" in the right column.
  Click on "See Results"
The results say that it's a bad idea.

Another ABS chemical compatibility chart at:
http://www.k-mac-plastics.net/data%20sheets/abs_chemical_resistance.htm
says that naptha is ok when cool (20C), but will severely attack ABS
when hot (60C).

--
Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Click to expand...
isn't naptha lighter fluid from a smoke shop?
 
On Fri, 16 Mar 2012 06:41:06 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

After reading this thread, I'm inclined to feel that nothing can be done.
Specifically, the adhesives have so deeply attacked and/or bonded with the
styrene component of the ABS, that Nothing Can Be Done.
Click to expand...
Ye of little faith. I think it's cleanable because I've cleaned
similar sticky rubberish goo from plastic in the past, without much
difficulty. The difference here is that the plastic surface is
textured, and seems to be trapping the goo. Cleaning a textured
surface is a problem that I see all too often. However, my quest for
the ultimate solvent may be futile. What I probably should be looking
for is a better technique or tools. I'll be investigating brushes,
rags, microfiber, mild heating, and such today. I think the various
label remover products are adequate.

You can get a 4M cheap. Mine is 20+ years old and still running fine. It's
not as fast as newer machines, but the quality is impeccable. You should see
the way it prints the eensy-teensy text on Disney discount coupons. And it's
PostScript, which means that finding a usable driver is no problem.
Click to expand...
The LJ 4m is ancient. It's basically a repackaged LaserJet 4. 8ppm
is much too slow for my customers. The 2300 is 24 ppm and starts
printing about 8 seconds from standby. The 2300d will print on both
sides of the page at 1200dpi (with the PCL6 driver). It also does
Postscript 3. However, these are not why my customers buy my rebuilt
2200 and 2300 series printers. It's because in standby, they don't
make any fan noise, which means they can be left powered on at home.
If I arrived with an LJ 4m, my typical customer would question my
sanity.
<http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/pscmisc/vac/us/product_pdfs/238800.pdf>
Typical cost for a 2300d from eBay is $100. I replace all the rubber
parts for $15. A clone 10A 6000 page toner cart is about $25.
Jetdirect network card is $10-$50 depending on type. 128MB additional
RAM for $10. Total expense is usually about $150. I usually spend
about an hour cleaning it. Time to retire the LJ 4m.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in
news:01o5m7tqnemr6v22ep65e82nq62ccudii1@4ax.com:

On Thu, 15 Mar 2012 12:47:18 -0700, dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)
wrote:

In article <upd4m7974l2sm8refk5tu7hqr6rmtmoa59@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

How about sandblasting the offending remnants?

That would probably damage the "textured" plastic finish. Sandblasting
soft materials, like plastic, causes the sand to imbed itself into the
material. I learned this the hard way when I tried to sandblast a
brass welding torch. The sand is now a permanent part of the handle.

Could you take it to a commercial blaster? Any of several techniques
might work: bead blasting, bicarbonate blasting, CO2 pellet blasting.
These ought not to leave a residue, and I'd think that bead blasting
could reproduce a consistent surface texture across the exterior.

I could do that, but I would need to blast all the covers in order to
make the surface finish match. There are also some smooth surfaces
involved, which would need to be masked. I don't know the price of
sandblasting, but I suspect it might approach the cost of replacement.

I have a small sandblaster kit and air compressor. I've done plenty
of metal parts, but have never tried plastic. I'll see if I can find
some to sacrifice. Unfortunately, all I have handy is some fairly
coarse hard sand.
Click to expand...
what may happen is that the goo may act as a stencil,and you end up etching
all around the goo.

I wonder if you used the mineral spirits or GooGone with a plastic fiber
pad or "pot scrubber" and some elbow grease,if that would take the goo off.

or maybe it has to be "hot tanked"; soaked in a tank of heated
solvent.Maybe the stuff auto shops use to clean auto parts.....

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com
 
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