Guest
On Tue, 01 Dec 2009 09:11:01 -0500, PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote:
Who said bronze? Cite a reference!
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F
F Murtz
Guest
Sylvia Else wrote:
bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger
S
Sylvia Else
Guest
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia.
As I said, they are equal.Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the larger
bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
Sylvia.
F
F Murtz
Guest
Sylvia Else wrote:
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for theF Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
F
F Murtz
Guest
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
By right side I mean the opposite side than that shown on your crimper
S
Sylvia Else
Guest
F Murtz wrote:
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments toSylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
F
F Murtz
Guest
Sylvia Else wrote:
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.
of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp.F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable
sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the
tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood,
this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.
D
Dave Plowman (News)
Guest
In article <0091a17e$0$23351$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
the part in contact with the cable.
A link was posted earlier by Trevor Wilson where the first pic shows the
type I prefer:-
http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/0119_crmp/index.html
You can't produce this sort of shape with a pre-insulated type as it would
pierce the insulation. But then the pre-insulated types are used (in the
UK) on mains wiring etc where the conductor is a single strand. And a
heart shaped crimp wouldn't work with those.
--
*Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large groups *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
My dislike of the pre-insulated types is the crimp consists of flatteningI've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood, this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
the part in contact with the cable.
A link was posted earlier by Trevor Wilson where the first pic shows the
type I prefer:-
http://www.ami.ac.uk/courses/topics/0119_crmp/index.html
You can't produce this sort of shape with a pre-insulated type as it would
pierce the insulation. But then the pre-insulated types are used (in the
UK) on mains wiring etc where the conductor is a single strand. And a
heart shaped crimp wouldn't work with those.
--
*Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large groups *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
S
Sylvia Else
Guest
F Murtz wrote:
stripped the insulation.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimp.jpg
Note how the one on the left, which I bought from Dick Smith Electronics
(DSE), has crimped the insulation as well, whereas the one on the right,
with the shorter crimped section has not. This is not because I failed
to insert the one on the right correctly - it's hole has a constant
radius, and there is no room to put the insulation in. The one on the
left has a barrel (there is no slot) that has a wider section to
accomodate the insulation.
The left one looks the better result, though I have to admit that with
these two, they've passed any pull test I've managed to apply. I can
only conclude that the fully insulated lugs that I bought from Jay Car
are (and I use this word very rarely) crap, because I was able to pull
them apart without even using pliers to hold the lug.
Finally, I tried using the tool the other way around, on one of the DSE
lugs. If there's any difference in the result, it will need to be
determined by a stronger person.
Sylvia.
Here are two insulated lugs that I crimped with mine, from which I thenSylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable
sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the
crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an
SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the
length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the
tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood,
this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side
of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp.
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.
stripped the insulation.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimp.jpg
Note how the one on the left, which I bought from Dick Smith Electronics
(DSE), has crimped the insulation as well, whereas the one on the right,
with the shorter crimped section has not. This is not because I failed
to insert the one on the right correctly - it's hole has a constant
radius, and there is no room to put the insulation in. The one on the
left has a barrel (there is no slot) that has a wider section to
accomodate the insulation.
The left one looks the better result, though I have to admit that with
these two, they've passed any pull test I've managed to apply. I can
only conclude that the fully insulated lugs that I bought from Jay Car
are (and I use this word very rarely) crap, because I was able to pull
them apart without even using pliers to hold the lug.
Finally, I tried using the tool the other way around, on one of the DSE
lugs. If there's any difference in the result, it will need to be
determined by a stronger person.
Sylvia.
D
Dave Plowman (News)
Guest
In article <4b14f559$1@dnews.tpgi.com.au>,
F Murtz <haggisz@hotmail.com> wrote:
--
*It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser.
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
F Murtz <haggisz@hotmail.com> wrote:
Agreed. But I've a feeling 'lug' is used as a very broad term.Spade connectors have to have different properties to lugs because they
rely on spring tension for electrical continuity but proper bolt on lugs
are usually copper for copper cables, aluminium for aluminium cables.
--
*It is easier to get older than it is to get wiser.
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
F
F Murtz
Guest
F Murtz wrote:
is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips.
http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/Lugs?authkey=Gv1sRgCK2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE
I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the otherSylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable
sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the
crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an
SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the
length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the
tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood,
this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side
of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp.
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.
is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips.
http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/Lugs?authkey=Gv1sRgCK2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE
D
Dave Plowman (News)
Guest
In article <00879530$0$8181$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
--
*The modem is the message *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp.Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
--
*The modem is the message *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
S
Sylvia Else
Guest
F Murtz wrote:
something would push down further in the centre, to create the desired
shape, but it appears they down't work that way.
FWIW, here are images of both sides the business end of my tool
http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimptool.jpg
The bottom one is a mirror image, to make comparison easier.
Sylvia.
The teeth(?) look much the same in all cases. I originally envisagedF Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable
sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the
crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an
SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the
length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the
tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood,
this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side
of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp.
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.
I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the other
is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips.
http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/Lugs?authkey=Gv1sRgCK2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE
something would push down further in the centre, to create the desired
shape, but it appears they down't work that way.
FWIW, here are images of both sides the business end of my tool
http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimptool.jpg
The bottom one is a mirror image, to make comparison easier.
Sylvia.
F
F Murtz
Guest
F Murtz wrote:
for earlier
here is a couple more pics, I think,new at this pic posting
http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/Lugs1?authkey=Gv1sRgCODVs7zcofCqDg
The heart shaped is for those non insulated open lugs you showed an urlF Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable
sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the
crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an
SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the
length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the
tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood,
this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side
of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp.
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.
I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the other
is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice grips.
http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/Lugs?authkey=Gv1sRgCK2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE
I am going to wear out the reply button.
for earlier
here is a couple more pics, I think,new at this pic posting
http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/Lugs1?authkey=Gv1sRgCODVs7zcofCqDg
F
F Murtz
Guest
Sylvia Else wrote:
purpose.
with more defined knife edge. It looks as if yours tries to be dualF Murtz wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
F Murtz wrote:
Sylvia Else wrote:
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <0073ddf9$0$8184$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
If by fully insulated you mean the red blue and yellow types
available in
a variety of configurations - the colour determining the cable
sizes
catered for - they vary wildly in quality by maker, as do the
crimp
tools.
http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=PT4525
The particular application is connecting to the terminals of an
SLA,
so these connectors have the advantage of minimising the scope
for
extraneous contact when they're in place.
Shame they perform so badly on the pull test.
I too have seen these red terminals pull off a cable within their
stated
range.
I prefer non insulated 1/4 in spade connectors that have a
separate
insulating cover. They have a better cable clamp too. This sort:-
http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/VWP-onlinestore/terminalsnonins/noninsblades.php
Made of brass, strangely. ;-)
I've noticed what is probably a significant difference between the
failed lugs, and the other type that seem OK. It lies in the
length of
the metal that gets crimped.
The tool I'm using is one of these:
http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefront/4b15ceb90184983c273fc0a87e0106a4/Product/View/T3535
It seems designed to crimp equally* two locations spaced apart.
But the metal on the failed lugs is too short, and one side of the
tool
is just crimping plastic.
[*] I emphasis "equally". Lest anyone think I've misunderstood,
this is
not a tool designed to crimp the conductor and insulator in one go.
Sylvia.
The smaller of the two crimps is for the cable connection and the
larger bit just crimps the lug insulation round the cable
insulation.
As I said, they are equal.
Sylvia.
Have a closer look, there is not much difference. Yours may be equal
mine is not. In any case the right side or the flat side is for the
cable connection and the left for the insulation.
They may have changed the design as I noticed my crimper does not work
as well with the newer lugs that seem to have different insulation.
If these aren't identical, it's going to take measuring instruments to
prove it.
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned
almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
I know that there are tools designed to crimp this sort of lug
http://au.farnell.com/jst-japan-solderless-terminals/sto-1-0t-250n/terminal-female-6-3x0-8mm/dp/3625436
in one action, where the section closer to the spade crimps the
conductor, and the section at the end crimps the insulation, but the
tool I have is definitely not one of those.
Sylvia.
The tool designed for that sort of lug has a knife edge bit in one side
of the crimp jaws which make a heart shape of the crimp.
Your crimper looks the same as mine in the jaws with the exception of
the size variation I am certain that the flat side or right side goes
toward the lug
and the side that sticks out is the cable side and is designed to crimp
the lug insulation to the cable insulation.
If you place the lug in the jaws with the cable side on the left you
will see that the crimps line up to do what I described.I am going to
check and may buy one similar to yours because some of my new lugs do
not fit old one with bigger insulation crimp on left.
I don't know if this will work One makes the heart shape crimp the
other is similar to yours except it is not ratchet but works like vice
grips.
http://picasaweb.google.com/FMurtz9/Lugs?authkey=Gv1sRgCK2Pr6z7-ZOEvAE
The teeth(?) look much the same in all cases. I originally envisaged
something would push down further in the centre, to create the desired
shape, but it appears they down't work that way.
FWIW, here are images of both sides the business end of my tool
http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/crimptool.jpg
The bottom one is a mirror image, to make comparison easier.
Sylvia.
Yours have teeth mine does not that is why I have a separate crimper
purpose.
S
Sylvia Else
Guest
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
Sylvia.
Clearly doesn't work in the case of these particular lugs.In article <00879530$0$8181$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp.
Sylvia.
A
aussiblu
Guest
Another paper here of relevance
http://www.eee.metu.edu.tr/~ssedele/New%20Folder/GOKCEN/45.pdf
--
Regards
Blue
Remove ZX from email address to reply directly.
http://www.eee.metu.edu.tr/~ssedele/New%20Folder/GOKCEN/45.pdf
--
Regards
Blue
Remove ZX from email address to reply directly.
A
aussiblu
Guest
And what's the view on the comparative effectiveness of swage
impact crimpers and hydraulic crimpers over ratchet crimpers? I
find them both useful for automotive battery and similar large
cabling but too cumbersome for smaller gauge wiring or close
quarters as they need space and at least two free hands; indeed
with the hydraulic I often need someone hold the cable and
connector while I use two hands to crimp. And the swage impact
crimper is a out of the car bench only tool.
eg http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for an impact swage
crimper and
http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for a hydraulic crimper.
I find with the right sized die they do seem to good job on even
small terminals but if the size is even slightly wrong they tend
to crush the terminal so its unusable.
--
Regards
Blue
Remove ZX from email address to reply directly.
impact crimpers and hydraulic crimpers over ratchet crimpers? I
find them both useful for automotive battery and similar large
cabling but too cumbersome for smaller gauge wiring or close
quarters as they need space and at least two free hands; indeed
with the hydraulic I often need someone hold the cable and
connector while I use two hands to crimp. And the swage impact
crimper is a out of the car bench only tool.
eg http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for an impact swage
crimper and
http://www.skygeek.com/ats-bs104.html for a hydraulic crimper.
I find with the right sized die they do seem to good job on even
small terminals but if the size is even slightly wrong they tend
to crush the terminal so its unusable.
--
Regards
Blue
Remove ZX from email address to reply directly.
D
Dave Plowman (News)
Guest
In article <009238d8$0$23708$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
crimp makers and I'll post some pics of the result later.
*Always drink upstream from the herd *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
Indeed. I do have a crimp tool supplied by one of the bigger insulatedDave Plowman (News) wrote:
In article <00879530$0$8181$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.at.this.address> wrote:
Crimping the plastic is a waste of time anyway. On the failed lugs that
I crimped, the plastic that covers the insulation has returned almost to
its original shape, even though the tool squashes it pretty much flat.
Something wrong there. The plastic acts as the cord clamp.
Clearly doesn't work in the case of these particular lugs.
crimp makers and I'll post some pics of the result later.
--Sylvia.
*Always drink upstream from the herd *
Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.
W
whit3rd
Guest
On Dec 2, 2:45 am, "Dave Plowman (News)" <d...@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:
shape; it works fine, and is very reliable. Smaller ones make a
cruciform
shape (and those include military/aircraft grade crimpers), also very
reliable. Very small crimpers for sheetmetal U preforms also can be
very reliable.
And the good insulated terminals I use are compatible with the
cardioid
crimp, it apparently doesn't destroy the plastic (but the part of the
insulation where the crimp tool bears down isn't always pretty
looking).
My crimp pliers are good forged steel Kleins, but some of the better
sheetmetal pliers (buy a brand name, like AMP or Channellock, there's
some baddies out there) also work. I always thought the OVAL
crimp was intended only to deform the insulation over the wire to
make a dirt seal, not to make the electric/mechanical crimp.
The large crimp tools I've used have hydraulic rams and make a hexagonMy dislike of the pre-insulated types is the crimp consists of flattening
the part in contact with the cable.
[ want cardioid crimp cross section, not oval]
You can't produce this sort of shape with a pre-insulated type as it would
pierce the insulation.
shape; it works fine, and is very reliable. Smaller ones make a
cruciform
shape (and those include military/aircraft grade crimpers), also very
reliable. Very small crimpers for sheetmetal U preforms also can be
very reliable.
And the good insulated terminals I use are compatible with the
cardioid
crimp, it apparently doesn't destroy the plastic (but the part of the
insulation where the crimp tool bears down isn't always pretty
looking).
My crimp pliers are good forged steel Kleins, but some of the better
sheetmetal pliers (buy a brand name, like AMP or Channellock, there's
some baddies out there) also work. I always thought the OVAL
crimp was intended only to deform the insulation over the wire to
make a dirt seal, not to make the electric/mechanical crimp.