How do you drill through stainless steel at home?

On 2013-03-07, Danny D. <danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?
A lotta bad advice from this group. You shoulda asked a metal working
group.


As an ex machinist, here's the drill (sorry-couldn't resist):

You need a HSS drill bit (high speed steel). If you can't see the
letters HSS somewhere on that drill, it's not and yer wasting your
money. Make sure the drill bit is sharp! Brand new is even better.

You need a cutting fluid. A specialized cutting fluid is best, but
clean motor oil will do, like the kind you put in yer car or lawmower.
Have a squirt bottle or oil can full on hand and keep that drill bit
WET! The cutting fluid is as much about keeping the drill bit cool as
it is in aiding cutting action.

Use the proper drill motor "speeds" (RPM) and "feeds" for the material and
drill size. Generally, the smaller the hole diameter and drill size,
the higher the drilling speed (RPMs).

http://members.home.nl/b.ollivier/html/drillspeedchart.htm

Drilling "feed" is how fast the drill bit is plunged or pushed into
the work. Some drill presses have an automatic feed which you can
set, but usually it's jes experience and judgement that dictates how
hard to feed. I see you have a drill press. This is GOOD!, as
stainless steel (SS) is difficult to drill with a hand drill motor.
The trick to drilling SS is to keep the feed pressure firm and
constant. Once you start the hole, do not reduce pressure or "get a
better grip" on the drill press handles while the bit is still
spinning in the hole. Back it out and start again. Once in, constant
presssure. You may see some smoke from the fluid. That's can be a
good sign and an indiction to add more fluid. You should see chips
ejected out of the hole. Smoke and no chips means you are not
cutting, but "work hardening". Keep adding fluid to the hole/drill
while cutting to keep it cool and the chips ejecting. Add fluid with
left hand while right hand works the drill press handle. Light
colored chips (yel, org, red) are good. Shows good pressure. VERY
DARK blue or purple chips means you are pushing too hard (feed too
fast) and you will prematurely dull your drill bit.

If you see no chips ejecting from the hole, you are not cutting and
are now "work hardening" the SS. Bad mojo! If SS work hardens, yer
screwed. It becomes almost impossible do go past that point. You
will hafta buy a carbide drill. Not titanium coated or any of that
crap. Go straight to carbide. If you hafta go to carbide, NEVER stop
the drill motor with drill in the hole or while drilling/cutting. It
will break that carbide bit instantly, gar-own-tee!

And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS. Work hardening is caused by the heat
generated from the drill friction. That's why you don't want yer
drill getting hot. Keep that sucker douched! ;)

nb
 
" one big boob"

A lotta bad advice from this group.

** Nope - just from you fuckhead.,


As an ex machinist,

** Got fired for incompetence did you ?


And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS.
** Fraid it almost certainly will.


Work hardening is caused by the heat...

** ROTFL

Work hardening = hardening by "cold working".

Something most of the stainless steels are FAMOUS for.

Wanker.



.... Phil
 
On 3/8/2013 5:48 AM, notbob wrote:
On 2013-03-07, Danny D. <danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless
steel?

A lotta bad advice from this group. You shoulda asked a metal
working group.


As an ex machinist, here's the drill (sorry-couldn't resist):

You need a HSS drill bit (high speed steel). If you can't see the
letters HSS somewhere on that drill, it's not and yer wasting your
money. Make sure the drill bit is sharp! Brand new is even better.

You need a cutting fluid. A specialized cutting fluid is best, but
clean motor oil will do, like the kind you put in yer car or
lawmower. Have a squirt bottle or oil can full on hand and keep that
drill bit WET! The cutting fluid is as much about keeping the drill
bit cool as it is in aiding cutting action.

Use the proper drill motor "speeds" (RPM) and "feeds" for the
material and drill size. Generally, the smaller the hole diameter
and drill size, the higher the drilling speed (RPMs).

http://members.home.nl/b.ollivier/html/drillspeedchart.htm

Drilling "feed" is how fast the drill bit is plunged or pushed into
the work. Some drill presses have an automatic feed which you can
set, but usually it's jes experience and judgement that dictates how
hard to feed. I see you have a drill press. This is GOOD!, as
stainless steel (SS) is difficult to drill with a hand drill motor.
The trick to drilling SS is to keep the feed pressure firm and
constant. Once you start the hole, do not reduce pressure or "get a
better grip" on the drill press handles while the bit is still
spinning in the hole. Back it out and start again. Once in,
constant presssure. You may see some smoke from the fluid. That's
can be a good sign and an indiction to add more fluid. You should
see chips ejected out of the hole. Smoke and no chips means you are
not cutting, but "work hardening". Keep adding fluid to the
hole/drill while cutting to keep it cool and the chips ejecting. Add
fluid with left hand while right hand works the drill press handle.
Light colored chips (yel, org, red) are good. Shows good pressure.
VERY DARK blue or purple chips means you are pushing too hard (feed
too fast) and you will prematurely dull your drill bit.

If you see no chips ejecting from the hole, you are not cutting and
are now "work hardening" the SS. Bad mojo! If SS work hardens, yer
screwed. It becomes almost impossible do go past that point. You
will hafta buy a carbide drill. Not titanium coated or any of that
crap. Go straight to carbide. If you hafta go to carbide, NEVER
stop the drill motor with drill in the hole or while
drilling/cutting. It will break that carbide bit instantly,
gar-own-tee!

And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS. Work hardening is caused by the heat
generated from the drill friction. That's why you don't want yer
drill getting hot. Keep that sucker douched! ;)

nb
I use Tap Magic cutting fluid. I bought a a couple of small cans of two
different formulas which served me for years before I needed to buy
more. The great thing about their product is the fact that it clings to
the bit and will stay put so using a lot is not necessary. I've used it
when cutting/drilling in different metals including stainless steel. Oh
yea, it makes cutting threads into metal a lot easier too. ^_^

http://www.tapmagic.com/

http://www.tapmagic.com/TMthick.htm

TDD
 
On Mar 7, 10:08 pm, e...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 21:46:00 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."

da...@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Greetings Danny,
For the best outcome you need to use the best drill bits available to
you, cutting oil, low RPM, and high pressure. If you can get cobalt
drills then get them. I noticed that my local hardware store is now
selling split point drills. If your store carries these then use one.
They also probably sell "Threading Oil". Get a small can of that. If
the store cuts to length and threads pipe then maybe you can talk them
out of a couple ounces of the oil they use in their threading machine.
Get the dark threading/cutting oil. It will have sulfur in it which is
a good high pressure additive. Don't make the mistake of using motor
oil. A good cutting speed for a 1/8 drill is about 700 RPM. Keep the
pressure on the drill so that it is constantly making a chip. If the
drill stops cutting the SS will work harden which just makes it that
much harder to drill.
Yes, That's my experience, slow and steady and make sure the bit is
always cutting!

George H.

When you feel the drill start to break out of
the back side of the part ease up on the pressure so that the drill
bit doesn't break. It would be good if you can back up the part with a
piece of mild steel or aluminum. This will help by keeping the drill
bit from feeding too fast and breaking when it exits the back side of
the work.
Eric
 
On 3/8/2013 7:50 AM, Denis G. wrote:
On Mar 8, 2:30 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
can remove any discoloration with polishing.
I would go to the Sandia National Laboratory and get them to use a
powerful laser to burn a hole through the fucker.
 
On Mar 8, 1:30 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
 http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

   news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)
That's a hell of a can opener if it's 1/2" thick! Might be lassoing
it with a lanyard would be a better way to go.

Stan
 
"Denis G." <guillemd53228@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:bc5768a5-40b2-48ee-a27e-236f4e56c7bc@c6g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
On Mar 8, 2:30 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless
steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill
bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel
can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)
-I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
-drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
-can remove any discoloration with polishing.

Can openers are hard enough to keep their edge while puncturing steel
cans, such as tomato juice comes in..
http://www.metalsuppliersonline.com/propertypages/302.asp
"Cold working will dramatically increase the hardness of this
material,"

I've seen tensile strength listed as high as 200,000 PSI for Type 302
used for pallet strapping.

You could hang the can opener by a Prusik loop of fancy boot lacing
etc around the middle:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusik

This knot survives handling better than a square knot:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fisherman's_knot

If you use braided Nylon cord you can melt and fuse the ends of the
loop and roll the warm joint flush so it nearly disappears.
jsw
 
"Delvin Benet" <DB@nbc.nýt> wrote in message
news:2631a$513a0d56$414e828e$15973@EVERESTKC.NET...
I would go to the Sandia National Laboratory and get them to use a
powerful laser to burn a hole through the fucker.

You just don't understand the self-reliant philosophy of R.C.M., do
you?
 
On Mar 8, 2:30 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net>
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
 http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

   news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)
I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
can remove any discoloration with polishing.
 
On 3/8/2013 3:30 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?


news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

Persoanlly, I drill small holes first. Then I enlarge the holes to the
proper size with a larger "bit".

I simply put some motor oil on the area to keep the tooling cool (mega
important) and if I'm using my at home drill press, I follow this chart
for RPM rates:

http://www.drill-hq.com/?page_id=785 or
http://www.multi-drill.com/drill-speed-chart.htm

#1 important thing to do is use oil or something similar to lubricate
and cool the tooling. Otherwise you run into all types of issues.

Much success.

--
http://tinyurl.com/My-Official-Response

Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022 x113
01.908.542.0244
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-HQ.com
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://www.Drill-HQ.com/?page_id=226
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://www.facebook.com/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill

V8013-R
 
On 8 Mar 2013 11:48:30 GMT, notbob <notbob@nothome.com> wrote:

Work hardening is caused by the heat
generated from the drill friction. That's why you don't want yer
drill getting hot. Keep that sucker douched! ;)
In my checkered past, I once worked for a company that made air
droppable tank gun barrels and such. I swept the floor, which is a
good indication of my level of expertise at the time. The company was
called "Hydromill" which is a clue of how things were machined. Most
everything was machined submerged in a tank of coolant. I don't know
if it will work, but submerging the drill, stainless part, and vise in
a small tub of oil, while drilling, might slow down the work
hardening. I've never tried this mostly because it's too messy.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 07:50:25 -0800 (PST), "Denis G."
<guillemd53228@gmail.com> wrote:

On Mar 8, 2:30 am, "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terr...@earthlink.net
wrote:
"Danny D." wrote:

What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
 http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

   news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
can remove any discoloration with polishing.
It's unlikely that annealing with a torch will do much. The
overwhelming problem drilling stainless, of the common 300-series, is
what Dan said: work-hardening.

With grades 304 and up, the work-hardening effect is fierce. It
requires some experience and a steady hand to drill it with a
manual-feed drill press. It will work-harden in a fraction of a second
and it then becomes problematic whether you can re-start the drill
through the work-hardened layer. That's what burns the edges of HSS
drills used on stainless more than anything else. It breaks them, too,
in sizes of 1/4" or less.

--
Ed Huntress
 
On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 16:28:36 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:

On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 19:08:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

see if it's magnetic. If it's been work hardened, it will be
slightly magnetic. If not, it will be non-magnetic. If it's very
magnetic, it will be 400 series stainless (contains no nickel).

Interesting diagnostics. The flat part (where I don't want to
attach a cord) is slightly magnetic. The cylindrical handle
(where I do want to drill) is not magnetic at all.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12366090/img/12366090.jpg
Both parts are the same material, probably something in the 300
series. The flat part has been stamped or punched, which work hardens
the part, and produces the slight magnetic effect. Nothing pounded on
the handle, so it's not magnetic.

I had not realized how hard stainless steel is!
Hardly and that's NOT your problem. Trying to drill a rounded surface
directly is going to cause a very different problem. Visualize what a
cross section of the contact area at the round stainless handle and
drill interface. The only point of contact is at the very tiny tip of
the drill, where there's no cutting edge. You can spin that all day
long and never get the drill bit to cut any metal.

Take a bench grinder and put a flat area where you want to drill.
Grind or punch a starter hole. That will give the drill bit cutting
edge something to bite into. After that, you should be all right.

Incidentally, you haven't suffered until you've tried to machine
titanium.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Thu, 7 Mar 2013 22:23:55 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:

Indeed. If there was some other way to hang it by the tail,
I would.
Sheesh... why didn't you mention that before?

1. Do you have a bench grinder? If so, grind a groove around the
circumference of the handle. Tie a rope around the groove. Pull
tight. It shouldn't slip.

2. Shrink tube and rope. I have some really nasty shrink tube used
by PGE to insulate splices. It's quite thick and comes with a sticky
heat activated glue on the inside. Put your rope or hook under the
shrink tube and use a heat gun to lock it in place.
<http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-Marine-Electrical-Adhesive-Shrink/dp/B000QCPKE8>

3. Do a knife handle wrap. Find some flat leather strips, and lace
it like it was a knife handle. Apply wet, and it will shrink into
place. Attach a rope or hook under the leather.

4. Chinese finger trap. Find one. Apply glue. Slide over handle.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinese_finger_trap>
Ummm... don't forget to remove your finger first.

5. Compression fitting. See if you can find a 1/2" compression
fitting. It think something in the plumbing department will work.
Watch out for stainless to copper corrosion. Also, the electrical
department will have power cord compression outlet fittings for
electrical junction boxes that might be 1/2". Use your imagination on
how to attach a hook.

6. Capacitive discharge spot welding. It's tricky to weld to such a
large thermal sink, but I think it can be done with a sufficiently big
capacitor. Spot weld a hook onto the handle.

etc...

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On 3/7/2013 3:46 PM, Danny D. wrote:
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?
Ya know, I just remembered that I used my Dremel Tool to make a hole in
some extremely hard metal on one occasion. I used a little carbide ball
bit and it worked quite well but wasn't as fast as drilling. ^_^

TDD
 
On Thu, 07 Mar 2013 19:08:10 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

see if it's magnetic. If it's been work hardened, it will be
slightly magnetic. If not, it will be non-magnetic. If it's very
magnetic, it will be 400 series stainless (contains no nickel).
Hi Jeff,
Interesting diagnostics. The flat part (where I don't want to
attach a cord) is slightly magnetic. The cylindrical handle
(where I do want to drill) is not magnetic at all.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12366090/img/12366090.jpg

I had not realized how hard stainless steel is!
 
"Danny D." <danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote in message
news:khd4ps$pvu$3@news.albasani.net...
On Fri, 08 Mar 2013 07:27:30 -0800, Stanley Schaefer wrote:

That's a hell of a can opener if it's 1/2" thick! Might be
lassoing
it with a lanyard would be a better way to go.

Yeah, it's a doozie (for a can opener)!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12366196/img/12366196.jpg

I bought it at Bed Bath & Beyond for $4, hoping to lanyard it
outside. It's too smooth to just tie a cord around the handle.

And, it's not magnetic & therefore very hard to drill with
my vanadium-coated (brass color) steel drill bits:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12366090/img/12366090.jpg
Oooh, I could have fun making a 'novelty' hanger for that!

Anneal the handle, drill lengthwise, swage or epoxy in a cable loop
with a "Remove Before Flight" tag.
http://www.legendaryusa.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RBFT&utm_source=google&utm_medium=CSE&utm_term=RBFT&utm_campaign=BROI&click=25391%20&gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c1799_a_7c6830_a_7cRBFT

Variations on the Hangman's Noose make good decorative tool handle
grips with loops.
 
On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 17:08:39 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:

Funny you mention your floor-sweeping past, as I also had
a summer job at a "plant" filled with metalworking machines
and Germans running them (real Germans, with heavy accents).
I was born in Germany. Sorry, no accent left.

They 'drilled' .010" holes in jet turbine blades using a machine
they called the "EDM" machine. It never once broke a bit because
it drilled by automatic feed in a bath of kerosene dialectic
simply by shooting electric current through the bit which was
merely very close to the steel being 'drilled'.
Today, they use a laser.

I think the EDM stood for Electro Dialectric Machining, and
the concepts were that the sparks "ate away" the metal.
I think you might mean Electrical Discharge Mangling:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrical_discharge_machining>

Needless to say, I didn't bring one home with me...
During my Cal Poly Pomona daze, part of the general engineering
curriculum was to run the prospective engineer through every possible
metal working machine available. If they had it, I tried (to destroy)
it. My favorite was the submerged arc welder, where I successfully
created a hot powdered metal and flux volcano. Another was a rather
large spot welder, where I convinced a not very swift student to apply
grease to his sheet metal parts before welding. The result was a
small grease explosion, and a burn line across his shirt from elbow to
elbow. My councilor decided that electronics would be a safer major
for me.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Fri, 8 Mar 2013 17:28:53 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
<danny@pleasedontemail.com> wrote:

You're very clever (we should invite you to our weekly
"inventor's lunch" up in Palo Alto on Wednesdays).
I don't invent anything. I steal all of my ideas.

I've been needing to buy a bench grinder for years,
so, maybe I'll use this as my need-based tooling!
You'll also need a left-handed wrench for removing/installing the
grinding wheel.

BTW, the chinese-finger-trap seems the most clever!
I just noticed the coil cord on the telephone handset. Wrap an old
handset coil cord over a hook, around the handle, and add some glue.
Totally ugly, but easier than drilling.

Personally, I like the shrinking leather knife handle wrap method
mostly because the result will be more artistic than the others.



--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
On Fri, 08 Mar 2013 07:27:30 -0800, Stanley Schaefer wrote:

That's a hell of a can opener if it's 1/2" thick! Might be lassoing
it with a lanyard would be a better way to go.
Yeah, it's a doozie (for a can opener)!
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/12366196/img/12366196.jpg

I bought it at Bed Bath & Beyond for $4, hoping to lanyard it
outside. It's too smooth to just tie a cord around the handle.

And, it's not magnetic & therefore very hard to drill with
my vanadium-coated (brass color) steel drill bits:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12366090/img/12366090.jpg
 

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