Frustration

On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

A typical piezo buzzer uses from 5-100 milliamps depending on the
part, and the 555 should be able to source that with no problem.

from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.
 
On Wed, 15 May 2019 14:31:29 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

Looks to me like R1 is missing entirely, and pin 8 looks like it is
going to ground when it should go to V+

What is the value of R2? I'm not familiar with that color code.
Brn, Gry, Blk, Blk, Brn?
If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 7:17:30 AM UTC-7, AK wrote:
...I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led....

If you can light a LED, you should be able to make noise with a piezo buzzer.

Your piezo may only be a speaker that also needs an oscillator to make a tone. Does it make a click when you wire it directly to a battery in either direction? Or, when you put it on your ohm meter, does it initially show some conductance but slowly shows as higher resistance?

If it is a sound maker, you may have it wired backwards. Or it may be dead (not likely). If it is working, it should make noise when you wire it directly to a battery with the correct polarity.
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 11:21:36 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2019 14:31:29 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.


Looks to me like R1 is missing entirely, and pin 8 looks like it is
going to ground when it should go to V+

What is the value of R2? I'm not familiar with that color code.
Brn, Gry, Blk, Blk, Brn?
If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Pin 8 is going to Vcc.

R2 is 220 ohms.
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:58:14 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

This is the buzzer.

MODEL NO.
7P3120LFLA
OPERATING VOLTAGE RANGE ( VDC ) 3 ~ 15
RATED VOLTAGE ( VDC ) 12
( mA ) 10
( dBA/ 30 cm ) 90
* MAX. RATED CURRENT
* MIN. SOUND OUTPUT
* FREQUENCY
( Hz )
TONE NATURE
PULSE
OPERATING TEMPERATURE
( o C )
TERMINAL
- 20 ~ +60
LEADWIRE

The buzzer beeps rather than buzzes. Maybe that is why it will not work in my circuit.

from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.

for my ne 555 max output current is +/- 200 ma.
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 06:37:19 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

Sign is inverted.

Could use a bipolar or mosfet.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 11:27:16 AM UTC-5, jf...@my-deja.com wrote:
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 7:17:30 AM UTC-7, AK wrote:

...I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led....

If you can light a LED, you should be able to make noise with a piezo buzzer.

Your piezo may only be a speaker that also needs an oscillator to make a tone. Does it make a click when you wire it directly to a battery in either direction? Or, when you put it on your ohm meter, does it initially show some conductance but slowly shows as higher resistance?

If it is a sound maker, you may have it wired backwards. Or it may be dead (not likely). If it is working, it should make noise when you wire it directly to a battery with the correct polarity.

I disconnected led and substituted the buzzer.

It does beep but at a fast rate compared to what it sounds when connected directly to battery.

Andy



Andy
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:03:41 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:58:14 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

This is the buzzer.

MODEL NO.
7P3120LFLA
OPERATING VOLTAGE RANGE ( VDC ) 3 ~ 15
RATED VOLTAGE ( VDC ) 12
( mA ) 10
( dBA/ 30 cm ) 90
* MAX. RATED CURRENT
* MIN. SOUND OUTPUT
* FREQUENCY
( Hz )
TONE NATURE
PULSE
OPERATING TEMPERATURE
( o C )
TERMINAL
- 20 ~ +60
LEADWIRE

The buzzer beeps rather than buzzes. Maybe that is why it will not work in my circuit.

Well, that piezo beeper should to work just fine. Only 10 milliamps
when you have 200 available.

You do know LEDs can't connect to power directly, and require some
current limiting? This isn't by chance the automobile lamp you
referred to as a LED in an earlier post is it? - It may draw some
serious current compared to what a 555 outputs.

Most single 5mm LEDs are rated at 20 milliamps maximum and (these
days) very bright with 20 ma going through them. I've been limiting
currents to one milliamp when I just want a board mounted indicator.
The little suckers keep getting more efficient - in the 70's it was
hard to tell if they were on with just 20 ma...

But like someone already suggested, connect the buzzer to your power
supply to check it's operation. You could also measure the current it
uses (with the meter in series with the buzzer and PS)

You can't put the meter across a power supply when using the current
functions. That kills the fuse inside the meter or the meter. (so
don't do it unless you understand what you are doing)
from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.

for my ne 555 max output current is +/- 200 ma.
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 11:55:11 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 11:21:36 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Wed, 15 May 2019 14:31:29 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.


Looks to me like R1 is missing entirely, and pin 8 looks like it is
going to ground when it should go to V+

What is the value of R2? I'm not familiar with that color code.
Brn, Gry, Blk, Blk, Brn?
If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Pin 8 is going to Vcc.

R2 is 220 ohms.

R1 is not visible.
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 02:49:44 -0400, Phil Hobbs wrote:

> LTspice works very well on Linux using Wine.

+1
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 2:37:11 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:03:41 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:58:14 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

This is the buzzer.

MODEL NO.
7P3120LFLA
OPERATING VOLTAGE RANGE ( VDC ) 3 ~ 15
RATED VOLTAGE ( VDC ) 12
( mA ) 10
( dBA/ 30 cm ) 90
* MAX. RATED CURRENT
* MIN. SOUND OUTPUT
* FREQUENCY
( Hz )
TONE NATURE
PULSE
OPERATING TEMPERATURE
( o C )
TERMINAL
- 20 ~ +60
LEADWIRE

The buzzer beeps rather than buzzes. Maybe that is why it will not work in my circuit.

Well, that piezo beeper should to work just fine. Only 10 milliamps
when you have 200 available.

You do know LEDs can't connect to power directly, and require some
current limiting? This isn't by chance the automobile lamp you
referred to as a LED in an earlier post is it? - It may draw some
serious current compared to what a 555 outputs.

Most single 5mm LEDs are rated at 20 milliamps maximum and (these
days) very bright with 20 ma going through them. I've been limiting
currents to one milliamp when I just want a board mounted indicator.
The little suckers keep getting more efficient - in the 70's it was
hard to tell if they were on with just 20 ma...

But like someone already suggested, connect the buzzer to your power
supply to check it's operation. You could also measure the current it
uses (with the meter in series with the buzzer and PS)

You can't put the meter across a power supply when using the current
functions. That kills the fuse inside the meter or the meter. (so
don't do it unless you understand what you are doing)

from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.

for my ne 555 max output current is +/- 200 ma.

I know about current limiting resistors for leds. I am using a 12 v one that has a resistor already soldered into the led.

I wonder why the pulse type piezo buzzer is acting funny.

I checked it's current and it jumps up and down.

Guess that is because it is pulsing?

Andy

Andy
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 3:08:48 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 06:37:19 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

Sign is inverted.
Grin, well that's typical for me. I use circuits to check my
math.
To AK if you build that the output will be low when the light is on.
You can just switch the inputs around.

George H.

Could use a bipolar or mosfet.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:01:00 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 2:37:11 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:03:41 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:58:14 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

This is the buzzer.

MODEL NO.
7P3120LFLA
OPERATING VOLTAGE RANGE ( VDC ) 3 ~ 15
RATED VOLTAGE ( VDC ) 12
( mA ) 10
( dBA/ 30 cm ) 90
* MAX. RATED CURRENT
* MIN. SOUND OUTPUT
* FREQUENCY
( Hz )
TONE NATURE
PULSE
OPERATING TEMPERATURE
( o C )
TERMINAL
- 20 ~ +60
LEADWIRE

The buzzer beeps rather than buzzes. Maybe that is why it will not work in my circuit.

Well, that piezo beeper should to work just fine. Only 10 milliamps
when you have 200 available.

You do know LEDs can't connect to power directly, and require some
current limiting? This isn't by chance the automobile lamp you
referred to as a LED in an earlier post is it? - It may draw some
serious current compared to what a 555 outputs.

Most single 5mm LEDs are rated at 20 milliamps maximum and (these
days) very bright with 20 ma going through them. I've been limiting
currents to one milliamp when I just want a board mounted indicator.
The little suckers keep getting more efficient - in the 70's it was
hard to tell if they were on with just 20 ma...

But like someone already suggested, connect the buzzer to your power
supply to check it's operation. You could also measure the current it
uses (with the meter in series with the buzzer and PS)

You can't put the meter across a power supply when using the current
functions. That kills the fuse inside the meter or the meter. (so
don't do it unless you understand what you are doing)

from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.

for my ne 555 max output current is +/- 200 ma.

I know about current limiting resistors for leds. I am using a 12 v one that has a resistor already soldered into the led.

I wonder why the pulse type piezo buzzer is acting funny.

I checked it's current and it jumps up and down.

Guess that is because it is pulsing?

Andy

Yup, it uses more power to make noise.


 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 7:25:20 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:01:00 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 2:37:11 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:03:41 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:58:14 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

This is the buzzer.

MODEL NO.
7P3120LFLA
OPERATING VOLTAGE RANGE ( VDC ) 3 ~ 15
RATED VOLTAGE ( VDC ) 12
( mA ) 10
( dBA/ 30 cm ) 90
* MAX. RATED CURRENT
* MIN. SOUND OUTPUT
* FREQUENCY
( Hz )
TONE NATURE
PULSE
OPERATING TEMPERATURE
( o C )
TERMINAL
- 20 ~ +60
LEADWIRE

The buzzer beeps rather than buzzes. Maybe that is why it will not work in my circuit.

Well, that piezo beeper should to work just fine. Only 10 milliamps
when you have 200 available.

You do know LEDs can't connect to power directly, and require some
current limiting? This isn't by chance the automobile lamp you
referred to as a LED in an earlier post is it? - It may draw some
serious current compared to what a 555 outputs.

Most single 5mm LEDs are rated at 20 milliamps maximum and (these
days) very bright with 20 ma going through them. I've been limiting
currents to one milliamp when I just want a board mounted indicator.
The little suckers keep getting more efficient - in the 70's it was
hard to tell if they were on with just 20 ma...

But like someone already suggested, connect the buzzer to your power
supply to check it's operation. You could also measure the current it
uses (with the meter in series with the buzzer and PS)

You can't put the meter across a power supply when using the current
functions. That kills the fuse inside the meter or the meter. (so
don't do it unless you understand what you are doing)

from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.

for my ne 555 max output current is +/- 200 ma.

I know about current limiting resistors for leds. I am using a 12 v one that has a resistor already soldered into the led.

I wonder why the pulse type piezo buzzer is acting funny.

I checked it's current and it jumps up and down.

Guess that is because it is pulsing?

Andy

Yup, it uses more power to make noise.



Andy

Thanks.

I will order a regular piezo buzzer.
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 9:41:09 PM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 7:25:20 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:01:00 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 2:37:11 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:03:41 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:58:14 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

This is the buzzer.

MODEL NO.
7P3120LFLA
OPERATING VOLTAGE RANGE ( VDC ) 3 ~ 15
RATED VOLTAGE ( VDC ) 12
( mA ) 10
( dBA/ 30 cm ) 90
* MAX. RATED CURRENT
* MIN. SOUND OUTPUT
* FREQUENCY
( Hz )
TONE NATURE
PULSE
OPERATING TEMPERATURE
( o C )
TERMINAL
- 20 ~ +60
LEADWIRE

The buzzer beeps rather than buzzes. Maybe that is why it will not work in my circuit.

Well, that piezo beeper should to work just fine. Only 10 milliamps
when you have 200 available.

You do know LEDs can't connect to power directly, and require some
current limiting? This isn't by chance the automobile lamp you
referred to as a LED in an earlier post is it? - It may draw some
serious current compared to what a 555 outputs.

Most single 5mm LEDs are rated at 20 milliamps maximum and (these
days) very bright with 20 ma going through them. I've been limiting
currents to one milliamp when I just want a board mounted indicator.
The little suckers keep getting more efficient - in the 70's it was
hard to tell if they were on with just 20 ma...

But like someone already suggested, connect the buzzer to your power
supply to check it's operation. You could also measure the current it
uses (with the meter in series with the buzzer and PS)

You can't put the meter across a power supply when using the current
functions. That kills the fuse inside the meter or the meter. (so
don't do it unless you understand what you are doing)

from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.

for my ne 555 max output current is +/- 200 ma.

I know about current limiting resistors for leds. I am using a 12 v one that has a resistor already soldered into the led.

I wonder why the pulse type piezo buzzer is acting funny.

I checked it's current and it jumps up and down.

Guess that is because it is pulsing?

Andy

Yup, it uses more power to make noise.



Andy

Thanks.

I will order a regular piezo buzzer.

The volume is too high on all the buzzers I have seen.

I do not want it bugging my neighbors if I am not at home.

Can I use a pot to turn down the volume?

Andy
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:53:45 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 3:08:48 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 06:37:19 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

Sign is inverted.
Grin, well that's typical for me. I use circuits to check my
math.
To AK if you build that the output will be low when the light is on.
You can just switch the inputs around.

George H.

I had one engineer who absolutely couldn't tell left from right, and
also couldn't tell logic "0" from logic "1".


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 9:53:32 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:53:45 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 3:08:48 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 06:37:19 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

Sign is inverted.
Grin, well that's typical for me. I use circuits to check my
math.
To AK if you build that the output will be low when the light is on.
You can just switch the inputs around.

George H.


I had one engineer who absolutely couldn't tell left from right, and
also couldn't tell logic "0" from logic "1".


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

I just realized some complications of my project.

I want it to notify me when someone crosses the laser path.

I plan on having the switch,led, and buzzer in my apartment

while the rest is outside in a water resistance project box.

But that means I will need wires going from outside to inside.

And I need to figure where to put the photocell so someone does not trip over it etc.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4hmrgsm5o7jet2/patio2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7mp7lgw60m0fgwp/patio1.jpg?dl=0

Would a motion detector or body heat detector be less complicated?

Andy
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 21:07:22 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 9:53:32 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:53:45 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 3:08:48 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 06:37:19 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

Sign is inverted.
Grin, well that's typical for me. I use circuits to check my
math.
To AK if you build that the output will be low when the light is on.
You can just switch the inputs around.

George H.


I had one engineer who absolutely couldn't tell left from right, and
also couldn't tell logic "0" from logic "1".


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

I just realized some complications of my project.

I want it to notify me when someone crosses the laser path.

I plan on having the switch,led, and buzzer in my apartment

while the rest is outside in a water resistance project box.

But that means I will need wires going from outside to inside.

And I need to figure where to put the photocell so someone does not trip over it etc.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/y4hmrgsm5o7jet2/patio2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/7mp7lgw60m0fgwp/patio1.jpg?dl=0

Would a motion detector or body heat detector be less complicated?

Andy

Less complicated if you buy it ready made, but probably more false
alarms. They are better indoors where there are no pets. They
respond to light, even if it is a wavelength that you can't see. If
you have, for instance, a place that is heated by the sun and a
plant/tree branch that moves in the wind it can give a false positive.

They do sell a combination PIR and "radar" (RF field disturbance)
detector where both must detect something at the same time to cut down
on false alarms.

Passing cars will often trip those from up to ~30 feet away if you are
aiming towards a busy street or nearby driveway.

PIR detectors can also detect people moving through widows both open
and to a lessor extent closed ones.

There's no good way to predict how well it might work unless you have
some prior experience and develop a feel for the application. Then
too, how concerned are you with false alarms?

Most of the garden variety of PIR detectors have a wide field of
coverage, but you can apply baffles to narrow the field, or find one
that has a narrow field - usually combined with greater detection
range. Only way to tell is to get one and play with it.

I was fooling around with an RF field disturbance sensor at work and
it did a pretty good job of alerting me to people walking by my
office/workshop. I just taped it to the wall board inside my office.
The range wasn't fantastic but it did not alert when someone moved
around in a nearby office. I suspect it may have alarmed if someone
in a nearby office was moving something metal around - it was more
sensitive to metal objects than people.

I did make a visible light movement detector. I used two photocells
and a lens along with some op-amps to detect changes in one photocell
that didn't match the other - so it could ignore switching on lights
or the sun rising, but still detect movement. (same principle as PIR
detectors but works in lighted areas only)

I was trying to find a way to protect people from walking into moving
machinery without a physical barrier. We went with a physical barrier
that required the operator to look inside the cage before he pressed
the "start" button. Nothing else was as foolproof.
 
On Thu, 16 May 2019 19:47:35 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 9:41:09 PM UTC-5, AK wrote:
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 7:25:20 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:01:00 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 2:37:11 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 12:03:41 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:58:14 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 07:17:26 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 8:37:23 AM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

George H.

I believe I have the circuit working. I had to replace the piezo buzzer with a led.

It now lights up in ambient light and turns off when I shine a laser on it.

I read that I need a field effect transistor in order to drive a buzzer.

Is that true?

Andy

No, a field effect transistor will switch with almost no current into
the gate, so their main advantage in switching applications is that
they don't load down the driver circuitry.

They have very high impedance inputs. They can be destroyed by static
electricity, so the gate shouldn't be allowed to "float," and there's
some limitations on the gate that are in the data sheet for the part
you are using. The maximum gate voltage for a lot of FETs is on the
order of ~10 volts.

A junction transistor is probably fine for your application. They are
somewhat more rugged. But unlike FETs they need current limiting into
the base or they will overload the 555 or be destroyed themselves. For
what you are doing, 1,000 ohms to 5,000 ohms is probably going to
work.

Normally you'd calculate what you need based on the gain (Beta) of the
transistor. Gain of 100 and that means the base needs 1/100 of the
current that the load will impose on the collector - but look at the
graphs, since gains are usually stated as minimum/typical/maximum for
the part, and they change with temperature, and the amount of load. If
you want to calculate it, but you shouldn't need a driver unless the
buzzer has a problem.

What kind of buzzer is this anyway? A piezo buzzer doesn't need a lot
of power, something like an electromechanical buzzer would draw a lot
of current and a 555 probably couldn't drive it directly. Unless it
is a bad buzzer (shorted).

This is the buzzer.

MODEL NO.
7P3120LFLA
OPERATING VOLTAGE RANGE ( VDC ) 3 ~ 15
RATED VOLTAGE ( VDC ) 12
( mA ) 10
( dBA/ 30 cm ) 90
* MAX. RATED CURRENT
* MIN. SOUND OUTPUT
* FREQUENCY
( Hz )
TONE NATURE
PULSE
OPERATING TEMPERATURE
( o C )
TERMINAL
- 20 ~ +60
LEADWIRE

The buzzer beeps rather than buzzes. Maybe that is why it will not work in my circuit.

Well, that piezo beeper should to work just fine. Only 10 milliamps
when you have 200 available.

You do know LEDs can't connect to power directly, and require some
current limiting? This isn't by chance the automobile lamp you
referred to as a LED in an earlier post is it? - It may draw some
serious current compared to what a 555 outputs.

Most single 5mm LEDs are rated at 20 milliamps maximum and (these
days) very bright with 20 ma going through them. I've been limiting
currents to one milliamp when I just want a board mounted indicator.
The little suckers keep getting more efficient - in the 70's it was
hard to tell if they were on with just 20 ma...

But like someone already suggested, connect the buzzer to your power
supply to check it's operation. You could also measure the current it
uses (with the meter in series with the buzzer and PS)

You can't put the meter across a power supply when using the current
functions. That kills the fuse inside the meter or the meter. (so
don't do it unless you understand what you are doing)

from
https://electronicsclub.info/555timer.htm
The output of a standard 555 can sink and source current. This means
that two devices can be connected to the output so that one is on when
the output is low and the other is on when the output is high, the
diagram shows two LEDs connected in this way.

The maximum output current is 200mA, this is more than most ICs and it
is sufficient to supply many output transducers directly including
LEDs (with a resistor in series), low current lamps, piezo
transducers, loudspeakers (with a capacitor in series), relay coils
(with diode protection) and some small motors (with diode protection).
The output voltage does not quite reach 0V and +Vs, especially if a
large current is flowing.

To switch larger currents you can connect a transistor.

NOTE!!!

The maximum output current of low power versions of the 555 (such the
ICM7555) is much lower: about 20mA with a 9V supply.

for my ne 555 max output current is +/- 200 ma.

I know about current limiting resistors for leds. I am using a 12 v one that has a resistor already soldered into the led.

I wonder why the pulse type piezo buzzer is acting funny.

I checked it's current and it jumps up and down.

Guess that is because it is pulsing?

Andy

Yup, it uses more power to make noise.



Andy

Thanks.

I will order a regular piezo buzzer.

The volume is too high on all the buzzers I have seen.

I do not want it bugging my neighbors if I am not at home.

Can I use a pot to turn down the volume?

Andy
To some extent you can. But most of them are a piezo ceramic disk
that has two driving electrodes plated on the sides along with a third
electrode that provides electrical feedback to make it oscillate at
it's natural resonant frequency. That is most efficient and produces
the most volume for the least power.

If you turn the voltage down too low, it won't be able to oscillate.

You could make a 555 into an astable multivibrator and drive a small
speaker or piezo transducer and add a pot to change the volume from
nothing to maximum. I'd bet there's some schematic like that on-line
already.

You could control pitch and volume and with a speaker it might even
sound better.

With a speaker you need a cap in series with it to just pass the AC to
the speaker. A piezo transducer is a capacitor.

Or you might just be able to block the opening for the buzzer to
attenuate the sound.

(like painting LEDs to reduce the intensity - the easy way out - "put
a sock in it.")
 
On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 10:53:32 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 16:53:45 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Thursday, May 16, 2019 at 3:08:48 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Thu, 16 May 2019 06:37:19 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 5:31:32 PM UTC-4, AK wrote:
On Wednesday, May 15, 2019 at 2:46:05 PM UTC-5, Rodney Pont wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2019 19:22:56 -0700 (PDT), AK wrote:

Electronic can be quite frustrating.

I put together a circuit for a laser alarm.

It does not work.

There is no way to tell if a design will be successful even if you follow the authors exact directions.

I will keep plugging away and reading Practical Electronics for Inventors.

:)

Can you post a picture of the assembly so that someone can check that
you have understood how to put the circuit together?

--
Regards - Rodney Pont
The from address exists but is mostly dumped,
please send any emails to the address below
e-mail rpont (at) gmail (dot) com

https://www.dropbox.com/s/leak8ty4dsmw88e/Project2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/edy9xs8p5rfm15q/Project1.jpg?dl=0

The ne555p chip got fried. I got 0 volts at pins 3 and 6.

I have one left.

If someone can step me thru this, I will risk my last chip.

Andy

Hmm, I'm too lazy to check the wires... (and don't know the 555)
How about some capacitance (0.1uF) across the supply rail.
Maybe put some resistance in the power input to limit current..
~ 100 ohms?

How much current does the beeper draw when it's on?

Here's something done with a comparator or opamp.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gobqe2a4mfqvbuu/light-sens.JPG?dl=0

(the lower circuit scribble)
Comparator could be LM339 or similar.. but then needs a pull up resistor on
the open collector output.

Sign is inverted.
Grin, well that's typical for me. I use circuits to check my
math.
To AK if you build that the output will be low when the light is on.
You can just switch the inputs around.

George H.


I had one engineer who absolutely couldn't tell left from right, and
also couldn't tell logic "0" from logic "1".
Given a few minutes I can get right and left. As navigator in a car
I'll use 'towards you' or 'towards me', which I'm less likely to mix up.

As far as logic goes, well sometimes high is a '0' and sometimes it's
a '1'. So I sympathize with your engineer.

George H.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics
 

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