From breadboard to soldering

[AK]

On Saturday, May 25, 2019 at 11:02:39 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:

In article <dc200cbd-27e2-4c06-b0d3-2ec6da4b1cae@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

I had to use my 4X magnifier. Could have used a 10x.

Took many hours.

The circuit beeps all the time.

Will recheck how I connected things later.

I can see why a smaller diameter solder is better as the wider stuff likes
to bridge gaps where you don't want it to.

I used a very fine tip on my soldering iron.

It did not last long before it was a nub.



To do much small work a good investment is a stereo microscope. The
Amscope SE400 is very good for hobby use. I have one. Usually use the
10x lenses. They are around $ 200.

I realize that I did not need the copper board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uolfy23pzfq09b2/Board2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a06da062sv956gw/Board1.jpg?dl=0

 

[default]

On Mon, 27 May 2019 14:12:28 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Saturday, May 25, 2019 at 11:02:39 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article <dc200cbd-27e2-4c06-b0d3-2ec6da4b1cae@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

I had to use my 4X magnifier. Could have used a 10x.

Took many hours.

The circuit beeps all the time.

Will recheck how I connected things later.

I can see why a smaller diameter solder is better as the wider stuff likes
to bridge gaps where you don't want it to.

I used a very fine tip on my soldering iron.

It did not last long before it was a nub.



To do much small work a good investment is a stereo microscope. The
Amscope SE400 is very good for hobby use. I have one. Usually use the
10x lenses. They are around $ 200.

I realize that I did not need the copper board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uolfy23pzfq09b2/Board2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a06da062sv956gw/Board1.jpg?dl=0

Dude, you got it backwards the components go on the blank side and the
copper foil side takes solder and makes the connections ...

Or you are playing with us?

Plain un coppered perforated board works too. That stuff you got is
supposed to make it easier to transfer directly from the bread board
to soldered board. (the layout remains the same)

Your light shield would be more effective if it were matte black
inside the PVC, so the sides absorb light that comes at an angle to
the axis.

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <manoee5fa0tifeker40opet4fc8b4q4dkj@4ax.com>,
default@defaulter.net says...

Dude, you got it backwards the components go on the blank side and the
copper foil side takes solder and makes the connections ...

Or you are playing with us?

Plain un coppered perforated board works too. That stuff you got is
supposed to make it easier to transfer directly from the bread board
to soldered board. (the layout remains the same)

My thoughts also. You usually place the components on the side withut
the copper. Then se the longer copper traces to solder the external
wires or a connecting component.

 

[AK]

On Monday, May 27, 2019 at 5:08:06 PM UTC-5, default wrote:

On Mon, 27 May 2019 14:12:28 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Saturday, May 25, 2019 at 11:02:39 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article <dc200cbd-27e2-4c06-b0d3-2ec6da4b1cae@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

I had to use my 4X magnifier. Could have used a 10x.

Took many hours.

The circuit beeps all the time.

Will recheck how I connected things later.

I can see why a smaller diameter solder is better as the wider stuff likes
to bridge gaps where you don't want it to.

I used a very fine tip on my soldering iron.

It did not last long before it was a nub.



To do much small work a good investment is a stereo microscope. The
Amscope SE400 is very good for hobby use. I have one. Usually use the
10x lenses. They are around $ 200.

I realize that I did not need the copper board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uolfy23pzfq09b2/Board2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a06da062sv956gw/Board1.jpg?dl=0

Dude, you got it backwards the components go on the blank side and the
copper foil side takes solder and makes the connections ...

Or you are playing with us?

Plain un coppered perforated board works too. That stuff you got is
supposed to make it easier to transfer directly from the bread board
to soldered board. (the layout remains the same)

Your light shield would be more effective if it were matte black
inside the PVC, so the sides absorb light that comes at an angle to
the axis.

Now you tell me.

You knew I was a green noob.

My circuit is not working correctly.

I rechecked my connections.

Don't know what to do next?

Andy

I have some boards with solder points on both sides.

What are they used for?

 

[AK]

On Tuesday, May 28, 2019 at 4:34:37 PM UTC-5, AK wrote:

On Monday, May 27, 2019 at 5:08:06 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Mon, 27 May 2019 14:12:28 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Saturday, May 25, 2019 at 11:02:39 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article <dc200cbd-27e2-4c06-b0d3-2ec6da4b1cae@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

I had to use my 4X magnifier. Could have used a 10x.

Took many hours.

The circuit beeps all the time.

Will recheck how I connected things later.

I can see why a smaller diameter solder is better as the wider stuff likes
to bridge gaps where you don't want it to.

I used a very fine tip on my soldering iron.

It did not last long before it was a nub.



To do much small work a good investment is a stereo microscope. The
Amscope SE400 is very good for hobby use. I have one. Usually use the
10x lenses. They are around $ 200.

I realize that I did not need the copper board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uolfy23pzfq09b2/Board2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a06da062sv956gw/Board1.jpg?dl=0

Dude, you got it backwards the components go on the blank side and the
copper foil side takes solder and makes the connections ...

Or you are playing with us?

Plain un coppered perforated board works too. That stuff you got is
supposed to make it easier to transfer directly from the bread board
to soldered board. (the layout remains the same)

Your light shield would be more effective if it were matte black
inside the PVC, so the sides absorb light that comes at an angle to
the axis.

Now you tell me.

You knew I was a green noob.

My circuit is not working correctly.

I rechecked my connections.

Don't know what to do next?

Andy

I have some boards with solder points on both sides.

What are they used for?

I ordered Understanding Basic Electronics by Larry D. Wolfgang.

Green noobie

 

[default]

On Tue, 28 May 2019 14:34:33 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, May 27, 2019 at 5:08:06 PM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Mon, 27 May 2019 14:12:28 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Saturday, May 25, 2019 at 11:02:39 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote:
In article <dc200cbd-27e2-4c06-b0d3-2ec6da4b1cae@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

I had to use my 4X magnifier. Could have used a 10x.

Took many hours.

The circuit beeps all the time.

Will recheck how I connected things later.

I can see why a smaller diameter solder is better as the wider stuff likes
to bridge gaps where you don't want it to.

I used a very fine tip on my soldering iron.

It did not last long before it was a nub.



To do much small work a good investment is a stereo microscope. The
Amscope SE400 is very good for hobby use. I have one. Usually use the
10x lenses. They are around $ 200.

I realize that I did not need the copper board.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/uolfy23pzfq09b2/Board2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a06da062sv956gw/Board1.jpg?dl=0

Dude, you got it backwards the components go on the blank side and the
copper foil side takes solder and makes the connections ...

Or you are playing with us?

Plain un coppered perforated board works too. That stuff you got is
supposed to make it easier to transfer directly from the bread board
to soldered board. (the layout remains the same)

Your light shield would be more effective if it were matte black
inside the PVC, so the sides absorb light that comes at an angle to
the axis.

Now you tell me.

You knew I was a green noob.

My circuit is not working correctly.

I rechecked my connections.

Don't know what to do next?

You are putting this stuff together without understanding how it is
supposed to work. That's why you are encountering so many problems
with, what is, a pretty simple circuit.

You need to know the "theory of operation." What each component is
supposed to be doing, then you can logically troubleshoot it.

Check and double check. You had something working and it no longer
does. Did you use the same parts from the breadboard in the soldered
version? (I mean did you actually take parts off the breadboard and
transfer them to the soldered board?) Did you use a different power
source?

If everything is identical it should behave identically. If
everything is identical and it used to work, and doesn't now that
leaves a wiring error.

Andy

I have some boards with solder points on both sides.

What are they used for?

Not sure what you are asking. Some circuit boards someone else made?
If that's the case... they use multi layer boards in some
construction. The board may have several layers in a sandwich. That
is done to avoid inserting jumper wires to get over traces, or to add
power and ground planes (very low impedance connections to power and
ground, as well as it makes the board into a bypass capacitor to keep
noise off the power bus).

One side of the board may be north south running conductors, the other
east and west, and in between power and ground, for instance.
Connections between the layers are made via plated-through holes.
(sometimes that explains why there will be a plethora of holes that
seem to do nothing) Each circuit board is made individually, then
cemented together to make a kind of plywood construction. Each board
is very thin.

Logical troubleshooting goes something like this: Look at all the
symptoms then try to envision one cause that will bring out all those
symptoms, then test that hypothesis. (this assumes it did work after
construction)

But anyhow, you have to think. Don't give into frustration and don't
get emotional. Don't "marry" some scenario, keep an open mind. It
requires some discipline. Eventually, after you've surmounted the
obstacles, you develop confidence (and ego) and it gets easier.

I find that if I have a humdinger of a problem, it's best to put it
down do something else and come back to it. I'll go kayaking, or bake
bread, or garden, etc., but won't think about electronics. When I do
go back, I try to look at it as if I'm seeing it for the first time.

My subconscious seems to work on problems too. I sometimes wake in
the morning with an idea that begs to be tried, or I'll see a
different way of designing something.

I was lucky. My OM was an electrical engineer (certified accountant,
CEO, private pilot with extra ratings, programmer, and a lot of other
things). He'd get home from work and I'd dump all my questions and
problems on him, he'd tell me what I was doing wrong. Usually in
general terms, he wanted me to find my own mistakes.