From breadboard to soldering

[Phil Hobbs]

On 5/17/19 12:58 PM, John Larkin wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:47:08 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB
Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board
connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire
up through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads
littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid
tinned copper wire.

For off-board, I like SMB connectors or 2-56 screws sticking up from
below. Some of the screws bond top and bottom grounds.

I have a box of brass #2-56 screws for just that purpose. Nice and
solderable.

I alligator clip lead onto the screws for power and ground and
whatever. That avoids having a bin full of old protos and tangled
wires.


You can wind the wires round the proto.

AFACT you're generally using one proto at a time, to find out about the
parts and the circuit. I do that too, but most of mine are for experiments.

I often have several handmade boxes in a setup--I'm using four of them
today to try to measure the noise of my laser driver automatically. All
those alligator clips tend to get shorted out or fall off when I move stuff.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 5/17/19 1:14 PM, AK wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:35:44 AM UTC-5, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Andy

Get rid of it and get some nice new Kester 44. Old solder gets
oxidized, and RS solder was all RMA flux and not RA.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 5/17/19 2:20 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700, AK wrote:

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

That's exactly the stuff you should use.

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Even better. Probably the good old high lead content formulation.





Bad Info.

Solder oxidizes as it ages, RMA flux is too weak to deal with it, and
63Sn/37Pb is somewhat better than 60/40 and much much better than 50/50,
which is suitable only for plumbing.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com

 

[default]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 09:53:47 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highland_snip_technology.com> wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 11:03:25 -0400, default <default@defaulter.net
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy


22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0

Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?

Carbide dental burr with a rounded rice-shaped end. They are cheap on
Amazon or ebay and last about forever.

Every year or so I have one of our PCB houses gold plate a square foot
of copperclad FR4, and I shear that up as needed. It looks and solders
great and doesn't tarnish.

I'm impressed I can't hold a burr bit that steady. I had some
success with a saw wheel for making straight cuts in the foil layer
(spinning in the wrong direction).

 

[default]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 09:53:33 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:58:28 AM UTC-5, default wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

That will work, so will an ordinary perforated board, you just run the
leads of the passive parts on the connection side to the active parts
(IC socket in your case)

Everyone develops their own techniques. For linear circuits passive
components supply all the connections, for digital I like using a
board that has plated-through holes.

But for you, maybe something that closely approximates your breadboard
might be appropriate.

Back in olden times, we'd drive brass escutcheon pins or wire brads
into actual wood boards then solder to the top of the nail heads. We
didn't have that plastic malarkey to prototype with, and tube sockets
were easier to mount to wood boards. I never used an actual
"bread-board" but plywood and Masonite (the latter for panels to hold
meters, switches and such)

I'd probably use stranded 24 AWG tinned insulated wire for jumpers.

May help to take a picture of what actually works, just in case...

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy

If I go with the Prototype Solderless 8X12cm PCB Board, how do I connect to other parts from an IC? In my example some of the pins need connections to 3 other areas.

Andy

You'd have to use the leads from parts like a resistor to bridge
across several pads then make all the connections. If you have to,
you can strip some solid wire to make bridges. There's no real heavy
current involved so wire diameter can be very small.

My first foray into prototyping was my boss giving me a schematic and
some perf board (no traces just holes). I'd never even seen perf
board before so I faked it. That stuff you are talking about looks
like the plated-through hole stuff I use for digital circuits. It is
rugged as hell and hard to destroy - only downside is that if you have
to rewire a mistake you will need a solder sucker or some such tool to
clear the hole of solder.

Oh, another source of small gauge stranded wire is from old computer
cables (like who uses those parallel cables with Centronics connectors
any more?) The quality of the wire is usually good (especially the
old stuff) and it is often different colors.

 

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:35:44 AM UTC-5, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Andy

Flux cored solder is great but since yours is so old the flux may not
work as well and the solder may be pretty oxidised on the outside. Try
some practice joints and see how well it works. On a properly soldered
joint the solder should flow easily on clean copper or clean tinned
surfaces and the finished joint should be shiny. If the solder balls
up or does not wet the joint then your old solder may be the problem.
When you buy new solder for electronic work get the flux cored stuff.
It works great. Whatever you do make sure to NEVER use plumbing flux
on your electronic work. The fluxes used for soldering copper pipe
will corrode and ruin your nice new circuits. Use only fluxes made for
electronics work.
Eric

 

[Cursitor Doom]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 16:15:13 -0400, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Solder oxidizes as it ages, RMA flux is too weak to deal with it, and
63Sn/37Pb is somewhat better than 60/40 and much much better than 50/50,
which is suitable only for plumbing.

YMMV. I've had no problems at all using fluxed solder I bought from a
German fleamarket 25+ years ago and it's still a delight to use, flows
beautifully, NEVER gives dry joints and shines like a mirror when set.
Perhaps you just had a bad batch. Not all manufacturers are the same.




--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

 

[George Herold]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 7:32:24 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:35:44 AM UTC-5, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Andy
Flux cored solder is great but since yours is so old the flux may not
work as well and the solder may be pretty oxidised on the outside. Try
some practice joints and see how well it works. On a properly soldered
joint the solder should flow easily on clean copper or clean tinned
surfaces and the finished joint should be shiny. If the solder balls
up or does not wet the joint then your old solder may be the problem.
When you buy new solder for electronic work get the flux cored stuff.
It works great. Whatever you do make sure to NEVER use plumbing flux
on your electronic work. The fluxes used for soldering copper pipe
will corrode and ruin your nice new circuits. Use only fluxes made for
electronics work.
Eric

Hah, my first circuit in a college lab I used plumber's solder and flux.
And I got yelled at! But it was what I had available at the time..
and that acid flux cut through this old oxidized piece of copper clad
like no bodies business.! My big sin was not knowing it was an acid flux
and then cleaning it properly. My pcb turned green in a few months. :^)

Flux is great stuff, but needs to be respected.
I've got flux that lets me soft solder (Kester 44)
to SS (Stainless) or Al. But no splatter on anything
that won't be cleaned.

George H.

 

[George Herold]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 8:53:17 PM UTC-4, George Herold wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 7:32:24 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:35:44 AM UTC-5, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Andy
Flux cored solder is great but since yours is so old the flux may not
work as well and the solder may be pretty oxidised on the outside. Try
some practice joints and see how well it works. On a properly soldered
joint the solder should flow easily on clean copper or clean tinned
surfaces and the finished joint should be shiny. If the solder balls
up or does not wet the joint then your old solder may be the problem.
When you buy new solder for electronic work get the flux cored stuff.
It works great. Whatever you do make sure to NEVER use plumbing flux
on your electronic work. The fluxes used for soldering copper pipe
will corrode and ruin your nice new circuits. Use only fluxes made for
electronics work.
Eric

Hah, my first circuit in a college lab I used plumber's solder and flux.
And I got yelled at! But it was what I had available at the time..
and that acid flux cut through this old oxidized piece of copper clad
like no bodies business.! My big sin was not knowing it was an acid flux
and then cleaning it properly. My pcb turned green in a few months. :^)

Flux is great stuff, but needs to be respected.
I've got flux that lets me soft solder (Kester 44)
to SS (Stainless) or Al. But no splatter on anything
that won't be cleaned.

George H.

Oh I thing the old radio shack solder and core flux will be fine,
most likely rosin core. If you have old oxidized pcb's or copper
wire, hit it with some fine sand paper or 'green scrubbies'
scotch brite. And then try and tin it with the solder.
I 'tin' everything before soldering the bits together.

George H.

 

[John Larkin]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:01:21 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 11:53:57 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 11:03:25 -0400, default <default@defaulter.net
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy


22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0

Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?

Carbide dental burr with a rounded rice-shaped end. They are cheap on
Amazon or ebay and last about forever.

Every year or so I have one of our PCB houses gold plate a square foot
of copperclad FR4, and I shear that up as needed. It looks and solders
great and doesn't tarnish.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

You do great work.

I am very impressed.

If you accidentally cut too much copper off, can it be repaired?

Andy

I've got pretty good at this so I don't do many repairs. But one can
solder blob over a narrow slit, or bridge it with a piece of wire or a
surface-mount zero-ohm jumper.

I plan the circuit on a whiteboard, then mark the copperclad with a
Sharpie, and then trace with the Dremel.

One can do picosecond matched-impedance circuits this way.

More complex protos, we do a real PCB layout and order a few
multilayer boards from PCBWAY or someone, and work on something else
until they arrive. I'm doing one now, and I've asked other people if
there's something they'd like me to throw on the layout. When the
boards arrive, I can chop them into chunks and distribute the circuits
to people.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2daf2owx1bqxjbm/Z392.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cvdv0azvr0ahitv/Z368.JPG?dl=0


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

[John Larkin]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 16:07:56 -0400, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 5/17/19 12:58 PM, John Larkin wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:47:08 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB
Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board
connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire
up through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads
littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid
tinned copper wire.

For off-board, I like SMB connectors or 2-56 screws sticking up from
below. Some of the screws bond top and bottom grounds.

I have a box of brass #2-56 screws for just that purpose. Nice and
solderable.


I alligator clip lead onto the screws for power and ground and
whatever. That avoids having a bin full of old protos and tangled
wires.


You can wind the wires round the proto.

Barbarian.

Incidentally, Amazon and places sell spools of tin (or something)
plated copper wire for jewelry making. It's really hard (maybe not
much copper?) and hard to solder. People should order real electronic
bus wire.

AFACT you're generally using one proto at a time, to find out about the
parts and the circuit. I do that too, but most of mine are for experiments.

Right, I'm usually evaluating a new part or a goofy circuit that I
can't Spice credibly. But I include extra goodies, like transmission
lines, nonstandard IC adapters, breakouts, whatever. Once it's a PCB
layout, may as well order 5 of them.

I often have several handmade boxes in a setup--I'm using four of them
today to try to measure the noise of my laser driver automatically. All
those alligator clips tend to get shorted out or fall off when I move stuff.

This week's proto PCB project is some variants of a 600 MHz Colpitts
coaxial ceramic resonator oscillator, with some ECL dividers and hooks
for phase-locking. 4 layers. I'll buy a few from PCBWAY.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2019-05-17, AK <scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:

Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so
they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper.

just to clarify that FR4 is a type of glass-fibre composite, it's
plenty rugged.

> Concerning the bare wire. Is there a worry about something accidentally pushing it against the board and shorting out or is it stiff enuf?

If there's a worry use insulated wire or place an insulator between
the wire and the board. cardboard works well. lexan sheeting, or that
stuff the make blister packs out of works well too.

paper clips with bright zinc finish solder readily and have high rigidity.

--
When I tried casting out nines I made a hash of it.

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 8:10:52 PM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 8:53:17 PM UTC-4, George Herold wrote:
On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 7:32:24 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:35:44 AM UTC-5, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Andy
Flux cored solder is great but since yours is so old the flux may not
work as well and the solder may be pretty oxidised on the outside. Try
some practice joints and see how well it works. On a properly soldered
joint the solder should flow easily on clean copper or clean tinned
surfaces and the finished joint should be shiny. If the solder balls
up or does not wet the joint then your old solder may be the problem.
When you buy new solder for electronic work get the flux cored stuff.
It works great. Whatever you do make sure to NEVER use plumbing flux
on your electronic work. The fluxes used for soldering copper pipe
will corrode and ruin your nice new circuits. Use only fluxes made for
electronics work.
Eric

Hah, my first circuit in a college lab I used plumber's solder and flux.
And I got yelled at! But it was what I had available at the time..
and that acid flux cut through this old oxidized piece of copper clad
like no bodies business.! My big sin was not knowing it was an acid flux
and then cleaning it properly. My pcb turned green in a few months. :^)

Flux is great stuff, but needs to be respected.
I've got flux that lets me soft solder (Kester 44)
to SS (Stainless) or Al. But no splatter on anything
that won't be cleaned.

George H.

Oh I thing the old radio shack solder and core flux will be fine,
most likely rosin core. If you have old oxidized pcb's or copper
wire, hit it with some fine sand paper or 'green scrubbies'
scotch brite. And then try and tin it with the solder.
I 'tin' everything before soldering the bits together.

George H.

The RS solder seems to be working ok. The joints made are pretty shiny.

Though sometimes the solder does not want to stick well.

Thats true of some of the wire, esp. speaker wire which seems to corrode quickly.

I ordered a big rolled of tinned solid wire.

But the flux sure smokes a lot. Does newer solder smoke less?

Andy

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 11:26:41 PM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:01:21 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 11:53:57 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 11:03:25 -0400, default <default@defaulter.net
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy


22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0

Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?

Carbide dental burr with a rounded rice-shaped end. They are cheap on
Amazon or ebay and last about forever.

Every year or so I have one of our PCB houses gold plate a square foot
of copperclad FR4, and I shear that up as needed. It looks and solders
great and doesn't tarnish.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

You do great work.

I am very impressed.

If you accidentally cut too much copper off, can it be repaired?

Andy

I've got pretty good at this so I don't do many repairs. But one can
solder blob over a narrow slit, or bridge it with a piece of wire or a
surface-mount zero-ohm jumper.

I plan the circuit on a whiteboard, then mark the copperclad with a
Sharpie, and then trace with the Dremel.

One can do picosecond matched-impedance circuits this way.

More complex protos, we do a real PCB layout and order a few
multilayer boards from PCBWAY or someone, and work on something else
until they arrive. I'm doing one now, and I've asked other people if
there's something they'd like me to throw on the layout. When the
boards arrive, I can chop them into chunks and distribute the circuits
to people.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2daf2owx1bqxjbm/Z392.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/cvdv0azvr0ahitv/Z368.JPG?dl=0


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

Ok, your technique looks like something that planes black boxes would use.

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 5/18/19 12:48 PM, AK wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 8:10:52 PM UTC-5, George Herold wrote:
On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 8:53:17 PM UTC-4, George Herold wrote:
On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 7:32:24 PM UTC-4, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:35:44 AM UTC-5, et...@whidbey.com wrote:
On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Andy
Flux cored solder is great but since yours is so old the flux may not
work as well and the solder may be pretty oxidised on the outside. Try
some practice joints and see how well it works. On a properly soldered
joint the solder should flow easily on clean copper or clean tinned
surfaces and the finished joint should be shiny. If the solder balls
up or does not wet the joint then your old solder may be the problem.
When you buy new solder for electronic work get the flux cored stuff.
It works great. Whatever you do make sure to NEVER use plumbing flux
on your electronic work. The fluxes used for soldering copper pipe
will corrode and ruin your nice new circuits. Use only fluxes made for
electronics work.
Eric

Hah, my first circuit in a college lab I used plumber's solder and flux.
And I got yelled at! But it was what I had available at the time..
and that acid flux cut through this old oxidized piece of copper clad
like no bodies business.! My big sin was not knowing it was an acid flux
and then cleaning it properly. My pcb turned green in a few months. :^)

Flux is great stuff, but needs to be respected.
I've got flux that lets me soft solder (Kester 44)
to SS (Stainless) or Al. But no splatter on anything
that won't be cleaned.

George H.

Oh I thing the old radio shack solder and core flux will be fine,
most likely rosin core. If you have old oxidized pcb's or copper
wire, hit it with some fine sand paper or 'green scrubbies'
scotch brite. And then try and tin it with the solder.
I 'tin' everything before soldering the bits together.

George H.

The RS solder seems to be working ok. The joints made are pretty shiny.

Though sometimes the solder does not want to stick well.

Thats true of some of the wire, esp. speaker wire which seems to corrode quickly.

Use RA flux.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:19:54 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy


22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

I decided to try your method out. Do you use single or double sided FR4?

Andy

 

[Bob Engelhardt]

On 5/17/2019 10:47 AM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
....

An RA flux pen ...
This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797

I assume that it has a felt tip and, if so, does it dry up? How about
getting it in a bottle & using a syringe to apply? (Amazon has the pen
& a 4 oz bottle for the same price.)

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 5/23/19 9:19 AM, Bob Engelhardt wrote:

On 5/17/2019 10:47 AM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
....
An RA flux pen ...
This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797


I assume that it has a felt tip and, if so, does it dry up?  How about
getting it in a bottle & using a syringe to apply?  (Amazon has the pen
& a 4 oz bottle for the same price.)

The pen is easier to control. Mine is three or four years old and
working fine. I also have a quart of MG 835 that I use in needle
bottles as well, and it seems to be shelf-stable, unlike Kester's RA,
which crystallizes out in a year or two.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 1:20:09 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700, AK wrote:

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

That's exactly the stuff you should use.

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Even better. Probably the good old high lead content formulation.





--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

I soldered my components today. Boy,was that fun.

I needed insulated wire and all I had was stranded.

So I twisted the ends and put some solder on the ends to stiffen it up.

I had to use my 4X magnifier. Could have used a 10x.

Took many hours.

The circuit beeps all the time.

Will recheck how I connected things later.

I can see why a smaller diameter solder is better as the wider stuff likes
to bridge gaps where you don't want it to.

I used a very fine tip on my soldering iron.

It did not last long before it was a nub.

Andy

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <dc200cbd-27e2-4c06-b0d3-2ec6da4b1cae@googlegroups.com>,
scientist77017@gmail.com says...

I had to use my 4X magnifier. Could have used a 10x.

Took many hours.

The circuit beeps all the time.

Will recheck how I connected things later.

I can see why a smaller diameter solder is better as the wider stuff likes
to bridge gaps where you don't want it to.

I used a very fine tip on my soldering iron.

It did not last long before it was a nub.

To do much small work a good investment is a stereo microscope. The
Amscope SE400 is very good for hobby use. I have one. Usually use the
10x lenses. They are around $ 200.