From breadboard to soldering

[AK]

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy

 

[John Larkin]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy

22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc

lunatic fringe electronics

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board
connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire up
through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads
littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid tinned
copper wire.

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf
>
Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook
the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these:

<https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373>

Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so
they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper.

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

If you're going to use sockets, use the good ones with the machined
jacks. The folded-metal ones get flaky.

Also, get some Kester 44 63/37 tin-lead solder. I never use anything else.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-Rosin-Core-Solder-60-40-031-0-5oz-Dispenser-Pack/202006855960

This is 60/40, which is the old standard, but it works fine and it's
three bucks. It's the RA flux that really counts.

An RA flux pen is super useful for when your joints get crudded up
because you've overheated them or soldered them too many times, or when
you're using old-stock components whose tinning has oxidized over time.
This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux.
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797>

Good luck with it!

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[default]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

That will work, so will an ordinary perforated board, you just run the
leads of the passive parts on the connection side to the active parts
(IC socket in your case)

Everyone develops their own techniques. For linear circuits passive
components supply all the connections, for digital I like using a
board that has plated-through holes.

But for you, maybe something that closely approximates your breadboard
might be appropriate.

Back in olden times, we'd drive brass escutcheon pins or wire brads
into actual wood boards then solder to the top of the nail heads. We
didn't have that plastic malarkey to prototype with, and tube sockets
were easier to mount to wood boards. I never used an actual
"bread-board" but plywood and Masonite (the latter for panels to hold
meters, switches and such)

I'd probably use stranded 24 AWG tinned insulated wire for jumpers.

May help to take a picture of what actually works, just in case...

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy

 

[default]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin
<jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy


22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0

Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?

 

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy

I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

 

[Ralph Mowery]

In article <qbmhhd$r2j$1@dont-email.me>,
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net says...

Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook
the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373

Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so
they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper.

Those boards are much better quality. However they are just single
holes. I like the boards that are made similar to the phenolic with
the copper traces spaced so that 3 or 4 holes in line are already
together. Not sure if you can find any like that or not. I did not
check to see. Just have not done that building in a while. Seems like
most of my building had just been hooking togetehr modules with the
Arduino processor boards.

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:

On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board
connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire up
through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads
littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid tinned
copper wire.


I was going to order these.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook
the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373

Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so
they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper.

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

If you're going to use sockets, use the good ones with the machined
jacks. The folded-metal ones get flaky.

Also, get some Kester 44 63/37 tin-lead solder. I never use anything else.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-Rosin-Core-Solder-60-40-031-0-5oz-Dispenser-Pack/202006855960

This is 60/40, which is the old standard, but it works fine and it's
three bucks. It's the RA flux that really counts.

An RA flux pen is super useful for when your joints get crudded up
because you've overheated them or soldered them too many times, or when
you're using old-stock components whose tinning has oxidized over time.
This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797

Good luck with it!

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

Concerning the bare wire. Is there a worry about something accidentally pushing it against the board and shorting out or is it stiff enuf?

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 5/17/19 12:42 PM, AK wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board
connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire up
through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads
littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid tinned
copper wire.


I was going to order these.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook
the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373

Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so
they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper.

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

If you're going to use sockets, use the good ones with the machined
jacks. The folded-metal ones get flaky.

Also, get some Kester 44 63/37 tin-lead solder. I never use anything else.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-Rosin-Core-Solder-60-40-031-0-5oz-Dispenser-Pack/202006855960

This is 60/40, which is the old standard, but it works fine and it's
three bucks. It's the RA flux that really counts.

An RA flux pen is super useful for when your joints get crudded up
because you've overheated them or soldered them too many times, or when
you're using old-stock components whose tinning has oxidized over time.
This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797

Good luck with it!


Concerning the bare wire. Is there a worry about something accidentally pushing it against the board and shorting out or is it stiff enuf?

Depends on how long they are. Use the bare wire for short connections
and insulated stuff for longer ones.

I nearly always use dead-bug construction on plain copperclad, because
you get 8 nice beefy standoffs for every op amp. Perf board is slower
and flakier.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 10:35:44 AM UTC-5, et...@whidbey.com wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy
I don't know how much experience you have with soldering so here's
some advice about it:
Remember to use plenty of heat to get the job done fast. This is
really important because heat causes oxidation which then prevents the
solder from sticking. So get in and oput as fast as possible.
The main job of flux is to clean oxides from the metals to be
soldered AND to absorb oxygen during the soldering process. The longer
the flux is kept hot the more oxygen the flux absorbs until it
saturates. Then it is no good. Oftentimes adding more flux won't fix
things because the saturated and burnt flux prevents the new flux from
getting to the metal. Then the only option is to clean the burnt flux
off by wiping or othger mechanical means. Once the burnt flux is
removed the joint can be refluxed and soldered.
The above info applies to all soldering done with fluxes. Like
soldering copper pipe and silver soldering steel, for example.
Eric

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Andy

 

I read the responses and they are valid but consider the source. Many of these people are pros who put out a thousand boards at the drop of a hat.

There is this outfit called Jameco that had(s) circuit boards that are layed out with foil just like a breadboard. I found them before but couldn't right now and I ain't got all day. I did find this, it may help;

https://www.jameco.com/z/SB300-Busboard-Prototype-Systems-SB300-Solderable-PC-Breadboard-1-Sided-PCB-Matches-300-Tie-Point-Breadboards_2125042.html?%20CID=GOOG&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o1P_w7fnKHsmU0sMuTs_fiX8BJK5qgFCsSZUsFgi2784aRJj2XtKw0aAi_8EALw_wcB

Sorry about the URL all frigged up if you can't handle it. Copy and past OR just do a Google search for "breadboard to pc jameco". (no quotes) From there you can get into the category. I found it hard to find from their homepage so I let Google handle it and they did.

The idea here is the PC is layed out just like a breadboard, so if it worked there it will work there. In fact most of the interelectrode capacitances should be about the same as well in case it matters. The contact inductance will vary though, you will have a much better connect on the PC board. And forget the lead free solder, that is for when you are building millions of something. For this don't make the trouble for yourself. If you were making a million of them you wouldn't be here asking us so I think it is safe to assume there will only be a few, or one. Not a problem but if it is a million it is a different story.

I just happened to find at Jameco's site what I found before and was going to use for a project. They have different sizes and all kinds of shit, you just have to look.

I have no affiliation with them I am just telling you that I found them looking for what I think you are looking for. That one is like 300 holes, it is not huge. They got them bigger and if they don't have one big enough for your brainstorm then you use more than one.

For four bucks I think it is a pretty good choice for one offs.

 

[default]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 09:42:55 -0700 (PDT), AK
<scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:47:13 AM UTC-5, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board
connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire up
through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads
littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid tinned
copper wire.


I was going to order these.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

Nasty phenolic stuff, untinned, single-sided--as a beginner you'll cook
the pads off it when you solder. You'd be better off with these:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2PCS-Prototype-Solderless-8X12cm-PCB-Board-Protoboard-Breadboard-Perfboard-DOT/253826860373

Those ones are FR4, two-sided, tinned, and have plated-through holes, so
they're much harder to damage. They're also cheaper.

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

If you're going to use sockets, use the good ones with the machined
jacks. The folded-metal ones get flaky.

Also, get some Kester 44 63/37 tin-lead solder. I never use anything else.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kester-44-Rosin-Core-Solder-60-40-031-0-5oz-Dispenser-Pack/202006855960

This is 60/40, which is the old standard, but it works fine and it's
three bucks. It's the RA flux that really counts.

An RA flux pen is super useful for when your joints get crudded up
because you've overheated them or soldered them too many times, or when
you're using old-stock components whose tinning has oxidized over time.
This one is MG Chemicals #835, which is what I use as liquid flux.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/MG-Chemicals-835-P-Rosin-Flux-Pen-Type-RA/122209720797

Good luck with it!

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

Concerning the bare wire. Is there a worry about something accidentally pushing it against the board and shorting out or is it stiff enuf?

It isn't going on a Saturn rocket... You don't use bare wire where it
may cause shorts but a lot depends on the application.

If it needs to be bullet-proof it gets potted in epoxy or silicone, if
it needs to be rugged and semi-damp proof it gets coated with a
varnish (but not the switches, sockets, connectors, etc.) If it is
going underwater I use wax or mineral oil to protect the circuitry, or
hermetic seals with a backfill of dry nitrogen if it has a camera or
something that would be harmed by condensate.

I use sealed plastic enclosures that are gasketed for use outdoors in
weather and make all the holes on the bottom if possible or use
waterproof switches etc..

Common sense... We get hurricanes here so I design for hurricanes.

They do make gasketed plastic enclosures with clear plastic covers.
They may be a good choice for what you are doing.

 

[John Larkin]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:58:27 -0400, default <default@defaulter.net>
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

That will work, so will an ordinary perforated board, you just run the
leads of the passive parts on the connection side to the active parts
(IC socket in your case)

Everyone develops their own techniques. For linear circuits passive
components supply all the connections, for digital I like using a
board that has plated-through holes.

But for you, maybe something that closely approximates your breadboard
might be appropriate.

Back in olden times, we'd drive brass escutcheon pins or wire brads
into actual wood boards then solder to the top of the nail heads. We
didn't have that plastic malarkey to prototype with, and tube sockets
were easier to mount to wood boards. I never used an actual
"bread-board" but plywood and Masonite (the latter for panels to hold
meters, switches and such)

I'd probably use stranded 24 AWG tinned insulated wire for jumpers.

May help to take a picture of what actually works, just in case...

We assign a part number to every breadboard or experiment, and archive
that on a server. Whiteboard sketches, photos, scope photos,
measurements, graphs, and occasionally an actual PCB layout. No point
losing this expensive info, and everybody gets to share it.




--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 11:53:57 AM UTC-5, John Larkin wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 11:03:25 -0400, default <default@defaulter.net
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy


22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0

Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?

Carbide dental burr with a rounded rice-shaped end. They are cheap on
Amazon or ebay and last about forever.

Every year or so I have one of our PCB houses gold plate a square foot
of copperclad FR4, and I shear that up as needed. It looks and solders
great and doesn't tarnish.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

You do great work.

I am very impressed.

If you accidentally cut too much copper off, can it be repaired?

Andy

 

[John Larkin]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:47:08 -0400, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 5/17/19 5:39 AM, AK wrote:
I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

You'll be much happier with #26 tinned solid wire for on-board
connections and tinned #24 stranded for off-board. I usually wire up
through-hole protos mostly with the scraps of clipped-off leads
littering the bench, but I also have a roll of #26 bare solid tinned
copper wire.

For off-board, I like SMB connectors or 2-56 screws sticking up from
below. Some of the screws bond top and bottom grounds. I alligator
clip lead onto the screws for power and ground and whatever. That
avoids having a bin full of old protos and tangled wires.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

 

[John Larkin]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 11:03:25 -0400, default <default@defaulter.net>
wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 07:19:47 -0700, John Larkin
jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com> wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy


22 is pretty klunky for electronics. I mostly use 30ga insulated
wire-wrap wire on protos. "Teeth were invented before wire strippers."

I make my own proto boards by Dremeling copperclad FR4. I like all the
parts and wires on the same side, in plain sight.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/yd19osiwz1z74s4/HV_Proto_2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/9av93ul8148zdjm/Z356_SN2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/pa9mu4ehtrjei8m/Z384_1.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ot95e4153b7df4i/D140_Proto.JPG?dl=0

Neat. What bit are you using in the Dremel?

Carbide dental burr with a rounded rice-shaped end. They are cheap on
Amazon or ebay and last about forever.

Every year or so I have one of our PCB houses gold plate a square foot
of copperclad FR4, and I shear that up as needed. It looks and solders
great and doesn't tarnish.


--

John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement

jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 9:58:28 AM UTC-5, default wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 02:39:07 -0700 (PDT), AK
scientist77017@gmail.com> wrote:

I am ready to transfer my circuit from breadboard to PCB Prototype Circuit Solder BREADBOARD.

Any advice appreciated.

Is 22 gauge hookup wire what I need?

I was going to order these.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5-x-10-cm-DIY-PCB-Prototype-Circuit-Solder-BREADBOARD-Discrete-and-DIP/141677397222?hash=item20fca184e6:g:lUAAAOSwPcVVvnaf

That will work, so will an ordinary perforated board, you just run the
leads of the passive parts on the connection side to the active parts
(IC socket in your case)

Everyone develops their own techniques. For linear circuits passive
components supply all the connections, for digital I like using a
board that has plated-through holes.

But for you, maybe something that closely approximates your breadboard
might be appropriate.

Back in olden times, we'd drive brass escutcheon pins or wire brads
into actual wood boards then solder to the top of the nail heads. We
didn't have that plastic malarkey to prototype with, and tube sockets
were easier to mount to wood boards. I never used an actual
"bread-board" but plywood and Masonite (the latter for panels to hold
meters, switches and such)

I'd probably use stranded 24 AWG tinned insulated wire for jumpers.

May help to take a picture of what actually works, just in case...

SPDT switches

4 conductor wire to run my photocell outside

I already have IC chip socket adaptors.

I am sure I am forgetting things.

Thanks,
Andy

If I go with the Prototype Solderless 8X12cm PCB Board, how do I connect to other parts from an IC? In my example some of the pins need connections to 3 other areas.

Andy

 

[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 12:07:23 PM UTC-5, jurb...@gmail.com wrote:

I read the responses and they are valid but consider the source. Many of these people are pros who put out a thousand boards at the drop of a hat.

There is this outfit called Jameco that had(s) circuit boards that are layed out with foil just like a breadboard. I found them before but couldn't right now and I ain't got all day. I did find this, it may help;

https://www.jameco.com/z/SB300-Busboard-Prototype-Systems-SB300-Solderable-PC-Breadboard-1-Sided-PCB-Matches-300-Tie-Point-Breadboards_2125042.html?%20CID=GOOG&gclid=Cj0KCQjwt_nmBRD0ARIsAJYs6o1P_w7fnKHsmU0sMuTs_fiX8BJK5qgFCsSZUsFgi2784aRJj2XtKw0aAi_8EALw_wcB

Sorry about the URL all frigged up if you can't handle it. Copy and past OR just do a Google search for "breadboard to pc jameco". (no quotes) From there you can get into the category. I found it hard to find from their homepage so I let Google handle it and they did.

The idea here is the PC is layed out just like a breadboard, so if it worked there it will work there. In fact most of the interelectrode capacitances should be about the same as well in case it matters. The contact inductance will vary though, you will have a much better connect on the PC board. And forget the lead free solder, that is for when you are building millions of something. For this don't make the trouble for yourself. If you were making a million of them you wouldn't be here asking us so I think it is safe to assume there will only be a few, or one. Not a problem but if it is a million it is a different story.

I just happened to find at Jameco's site what I found before and was going to use for a project. They have different sizes and all kinds of shit, you just have to look.

I have no affiliation with them I am just telling you that I found them looking for what I think you are looking for. That one is like 300 holes, it is not huge. They got them bigger and if they don't have one big enough for your brainstorm then you use more than one.

For four bucks I think it is a pretty good choice for one offs.

Thanks. On thinking, that board does limit the number of things you can insert since so many holes are connected.

I will stick with the other type use this wire.

TINNED COPPER WIRE 26GA SOFT 1 OZ 90 FT. SOLID COPPER ,BEADING & WRAPPING WIRE

I like the idea of not having to strip wire. I have lost much wire using a cheap wire stripper.

And with solid wire I will not have to "twist" it each time before soldering.

All it takes is a single strand that I missed to cause problems.

I think I am getting addicted to electronics.

Andy

Andy

 

[Cursitor Doom]

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700, AK wrote:

> I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

That's exactly the stuff you should use.

> I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Even better. Probably the good old high lead content formulation.





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[AK]

On Friday, May 17, 2019 at 1:20:09 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2019 10:14:55 -0700, AK wrote:

I am using solder that has flux built in. Is that ok?

That's exactly the stuff you should use.

I think I got it from Radio Shack years ago.

Even better. Probably the good old high lead content formulation.

Good.

I hold my breath when soldering.

I thought about turning on a fan but was afraid it would slow down soldering.

Andy