Engine Management Units

> http://tinyurl.com/hvk5eac

Any chance of posting a super-high resolution image?
 
On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 20:01:54 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
<curd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 14:25:41 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 14:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 09:58:03 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:05:24 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

But this is really about trying to rescue the old one. They don't come
cheap!

The issue is with the new part, not the old one.

Wrong! The question *solely* concerns the *old* unit that failed.

The issue is your dissatisfaction with the repaired automobile.

You're not in a position to resurrect the old ECU.

The new ECU in all probability just requires a software tweak. My
question was about the OLD one (at the risk of repeating myself).

There's not much you can tell from a photograph of limited resolution.
Looking at what you've offered, you might re-examine locally:

http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_captive_detritus.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_green_reflection.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_red_reflection.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_soluble_contaminant.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_soluble_contaminant_2.jpg

I expect these are mostly reflections in the protective epoxy, or
flow/tension marks formed in its application, but could be signs of
contamination or damage.

Even checking point to point contact is a trial with this stuff.

Vibration produces intermittent faults on assemblies (where the parts
don't actually shear off completely) The most suspect parts are those
with mechanical attributes - the crystal as previously suggested, the
connectors and bulky components. Reflowing the SJ of the latter might
be informative - any uncharacteristic loosness in the soldered
material of the melted joint is a giveaway.

As previous - an intermittent fault is unlikely to result in repeated
DOA symptoms, but it can be recorded for posterity in the firmware,
with DOA symptoms, or break small-signal paths with the same effect.

Did you try a reset on the 'dead' unit, before replacing it?

The fact that its replacement didn't involve the surrender of the
defect unit (for a discount in pricing) is a signal from the mfr
regarding their view on the viability of repair. They are in the most
sensible position to do so, after-warranty.

RL
 
On Tuesday, March 15, 2016 at 8:59:44 PM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:
On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 17:21:08 -0700, DaveC wrote:

http://tinyurl.com/hvk5eac

Any chance of posting a super-high resolution image?



If I can figure out how to get the back off and photograph both sides,
I'll do it.

There may be nothing on the back side. I repair (take a shot at) a lot of car electronics from a nearby car dealership (mostly clusters) and have seen some PCMs that are pretty much bonded to the bottom of the pan for heat sinking purposes. Nothing to see on the other side except foil damage if there was a water leak.

Never been in a Rover PCM.
 
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 11:30:49 +0100, Look165 wrote:

I would say the 2 electrolytic caps.

I've heard that's a common failure point with these units, but all the
electros have checked out fine on this particular one.
 
I would say the 2 electrolytic caps.

Cursitor Doom a ĂŠcrit :
Hi guys,

I have an EMU from a Land Rover which just suddenly failed one day
without warning as I was driving down the road. I was wondering if
there's any possibility of fixing it, given that schematics are AFAIK
unavailable due to commercial confidentiality. Of course there are some
basic checks that can be done without a diagram, but take a look at this
thing and tell me what I could try doing with it. I've carefully
inspected it close up but can find *nothing* at all visibly wrong with it:

http://tinyurl.com/hvk5eac

BTW, the whole board has been thickly sprayed with clear varnish which
accounts for all the bright dots which appear on some of the parts -
they're not indicative of any failure.

Any suggestions?
 
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 09:42:30 -0700, DaveC wrote:

“checked out fine...” means you tested what? Capacitance? ESR?
In-circuit? Removed?

Details!

The ESRs were slightly high (in circuit) but not enough to cause sudden
total failure. But they appear to be easily removeable so I'll take them
out and check them independently.
I should repeat I don't have the time right now to go down every avenue
if this turns out to be more than a simple fix; I'm really just trying to
establish whether the thing is salvageable at all. However, I am noting
down all the suggestions made here for future reference for when I do
have time.
 
Check them instead of usisng random statistics.

Cursitor Doom a ĂŠcrit :
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 11:30:49 +0100, Look165 wrote:

I would say the 2 electrolytic caps.


I've heard that's a common failure point with these units, but all the
electros have checked out fine on this particular one.
 
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 11:45:04 -0700, DaveC wrote:

“checked out fine...” means you tested what? Capacitance? ESR?
In-circuit? Removed?

Visually?

No signs of bulging or seepage.

I was just taking a closer look at the board a moment ago under a glass
and spotted something that requires further investigation. Going to have
to get my stereoscope out of storage for this one. Tiny clusters of what
look like *very* fine gauge enamel copper wire clearly bridging across
vias in various points around the board and obviously not *supposed* to
be there. If they turn out to be conductive, I could be in business!
Don't want to get my hopes up on this one, though. Probably just a false
alarm but *definitely* requiring closer examination with something more
powerful than a glass....

Turns out to get the caps out of circuit requires a 6mm ring spanner
which I shall have to procure from a local emporium tomorrow when they re-
open. Fortunately I already have a 13mm one for the other ends.
 
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 13:00:19 -0700, DaveC wrote:

Turns out to get the caps out of circuit requires a 6mm ring spanner
which I shall have to procure from a local emporium tomorrow when they
re-
open. Fortunately I already have a 13mm one for the other ends.

Try 1/4”. That’s 6.35mm. Might work...

I simply don't have anything that small (apart from sockets which are no
good in this case) in either metric or imperial, I'm afraid. It won't
kill me to buy one the correct size tomorrow.
 
On 16 Mar 2016, Cursitor Doom wrote
(in article <ncbetl$tfi$1@dont-email.me>):

I would say the 2 electrolytic caps.

I've heard that's a common failure point with these units, but all the
electros have checked out fine on this particular one.

“checked out fine...” means you tested what? Capacitance? ESR?
In-circuit? Removed?

Details!
 
On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 19:59:53 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 20:01:54 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 14:25:41 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 14:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 09:58:03 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:05:24 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

But this is really about trying to rescue the old one. They don't
come cheap!

The issue is with the new part, not the old one.

Wrong! The question *solely* concerns the *old* unit that failed.

The issue is your dissatisfaction with the repaired automobile.

You're not in a position to resurrect the old ECU.

The new ECU in all probability just requires a software tweak. My
question was about the OLD one (at the risk of repeating myself).

There's not much you can tell from a photograph of limited resolution.
Looking at what you've offered, you might re-examine locally:

http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_captive_detritus.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_green_reflection.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_red_reflection.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_soluble_contaminant.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_soluble_contaminant_2.jpg

I don't know how the hell you were able to spot those markings from the
poor detail in the photo. The last two details you posted show the
extremely fine enamel copper wire-looking debris which crops up in other
places on the board and across vias and traces. If this debris conducts,
it could easily be the cause of the problem. I have to hoist my
stereoscope out of storage and take a better look tomorrow. Well spotted
indeed. Remarkable!

As for the other bits you found, I'll investigate them at the same time
when my stereoscope is set up.
 
Turns out to get the caps out of circuit requires a 6mm ring spanner
which I shall have to procure from a local emporium tomorrow when they re-
open. Fortunately I already have a 13mm one for the other ends.

Try 1/4”. That’s 6.35mm. Might work...
 
Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 11:45:04 -0700, DaveC wrote:

“checked out fine...” means you tested what? Capacitance? ESR?
In-circuit? Removed?

Visually?

No signs of bulging or seepage.

I was just taking a closer look at the board a moment ago under a glass
and spotted something that requires further investigation. Going to have
to get my stereoscope out of storage for this one. Tiny clusters of what
look like *very* fine gauge enamel copper wire clearly bridging across
vias in various points around the board and obviously not *supposed* to
be there.
Woo Hoo! Sounds like tin whiskers! The conformal coat is "SUPPOSED" to
suppress the whisker growth, but there are quite a few reports that the
whiskers just poke through the coating, they ARE real sharp.

Jon
 
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 23:21:41 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
<curd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 19:59:53 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 20:01:54 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 14:25:41 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 14:04:46 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 09:58:03 -0500, legg wrote:

On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 11:05:24 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
curd@notformail.com> wrote:

But this is really about trying to rescue the old one. They don't
come cheap!

The issue is with the new part, not the old one.

Wrong! The question *solely* concerns the *old* unit that failed.

The issue is your dissatisfaction with the repaired automobile.

You're not in a position to resurrect the old ECU.

The new ECU in all probability just requires a software tweak. My
question was about the OLD one (at the risk of repeating myself).

There's not much you can tell from a photograph of limited resolution.
Looking at what you've offered, you might re-examine locally:

http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_captive_detritus.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_green_reflection.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_red_reflection.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_soluble_contaminant.jpg
http://www.magma.ca/~legg/TVS/EMU_soluble_contaminant_2.jpg

I don't know how the hell you were able to spot those markings from the
poor detail in the photo. The last two details you posted show the
extremely fine enamel copper wire-looking debris which crops up in other
places on the board and across vias and traces. If this debris conducts,
it could easily be the cause of the problem. I have to hoist my
stereoscope out of storage and take a better look tomorrow. Well spotted
indeed. Remarkable!

As for the other bits you found, I'll investigate them at the same time
when my stereoscope is set up.

Looked to me more like dye concentrating as the curing epoxy puckered.

Did you ever reset this thing, while it was still in the vehicle?

RL
 
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 22:50:06 -0500, legg wrote:

> Looked to me more like dye concentrating as the curing epoxy puckered.

So not likely to cause a fault then?

> Did you ever reset this thing, while it was still in the vehicle?

No. I think if the fix were that simple the service specialists who
swapped the unit over wouldn't have gone to the trouble of sourcing a
replacement. They charged me next to nothing for the job so I trust them.
 
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 20:51:46 -0500, Jon Elson wrote:

Cursitor Doom wrote:

On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 11:45:04 -0700, DaveC wrote:

“checked out fine...” means you tested what? Capacitance? ESR?
In-circuit? Removed?

Visually?

No signs of bulging or seepage.

I was just taking a closer look at the board a moment ago under a glass
and spotted something that requires further investigation. Going to
have to get my stereoscope out of storage for this one. Tiny clusters
of what look like *very* fine gauge enamel copper wire clearly bridging
across vias in various points around the board and obviously not
*supposed* to be there.
Woo Hoo! Sounds like tin whiskers! The conformal coat is "SUPPOSED" to
suppress the whisker growth, but there are quite a few reports that the
whiskers just poke through the coating, they ARE real sharp.

Jon

Thank you, Jon. An interesting suggestion! But I was under the impression
that:

1. TW growth happened solely inside chips and so was normally invisible.

2. tin whiskers were invariably silver in colour.

These I have here are like the old kind of enamel copper wire. Nowadays
all enamel copper seems to be clear, but back in the day the enamel was a
sort of deep plum shade - which is what I see here. I'll do some searches
for pictures of TW and see if some match what I see on this board....
 
I wonnder how you can determine an ESR visually !

And technically, it's not so easy to measure this parameter.


Cursitor Doom a ĂŠcrit :
On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 09:42:30 -0700, DaveC wrote:

“checked out fine...” means you tested what? Capacitance? ESR?
In-circuit? Removed?

Details!

The ESRs were slightly high (in circuit) but not enough to cause sudden
total failure. But they appear to be easily removeable so I'll take them
out and check them independently.
I should repeat I don't have the time right now to go down every avenue
if this turns out to be more than a simple fix; I'm really just trying to
establish whether the thing is salvageable at all. However, I am noting
down all the suggestions made here for future reference for when I do
have time.
 
On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 08:04:41 -0500, legg wrote:

?? Just charged you for the ECU, that they happened to have lying
around? Very obliging...

It wasn't a stock item. They had to order it in and it took about 10 days
in all. I'm normally suspicious, but not on this one.
 
On Thu, 17 Mar 2016 13:01:37 +0000, MJC wrote:

I didn't know modern enamel had gone clear. Sounds like a recipe for
confusion! Even if all enamel is now also the sort that turns into flux
if you try to solder the wire...

Mike.

Sorry, no idea what you're getting at here.
 

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