R
Rich Grise
Guest
Searcher7 wrote:
Crocus cloth.
Cheers!
Rich
Crocus cloth.
Cheers!
Rich
J
John Fields
Guest
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 14:04:01 -0800 (PST), Searcher7
<Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
Why despair instead of posting what you have in mind?
For instance, do you want to have a set of contacts wiped
automatically before or after they close?
Or maybe you're looking for a manual contact burnisher to use when the
contacts are hot and can be broken for cleaning?
What is it you want to do?
---
JF
<Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
---
Why despair instead of posting what you have in mind?
For instance, do you want to have a set of contacts wiped
automatically before or after they close?
Or maybe you're looking for a manual contact burnisher to use when the
contacts are hot and can be broken for cleaning?
What is it you want to do?
---
JF
J
John Fields
Guest
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:52:25 -0500, "Josepi" <JRM@easynews.calm>
wrote:
Do you have a reference where 'wipe' is defined as a distance?
---
Dust 'specks', but not bad.
---
"bifurcated".
---
Whoa, Nellie...
The metals and alloys used for relay/switch contacts depends on the
service which they're designed for, so stating that silver or gold are
the 'best' contact surface is just wrong.
---
Oh, my...
Relay contacts wet with mercury are the fastest making and breaking
mechanical switches known and, as an aside, exhibit no bounce.
---
True, but so what?
You missed what was going on at the contacts and are, seemingly,
trying to make up for that by pontificating about irrelevancies.
---
A "contact burning tool"?
Where would I find one of those?
---
Not bad.
---
JF
wrote:
---
Do you have a reference where 'wipe' is defined as a distance?
---
---
Dust 'specks', but not bad.
---
---
"bifurcated".
---
---
Whoa, Nellie...
The metals and alloys used for relay/switch contacts depends on the
service which they're designed for, so stating that silver or gold are
the 'best' contact surface is just wrong.
---
---
Oh, my...
Relay contacts wet with mercury are the fastest making and breaking
mechanical switches known and, as an aside, exhibit no bounce.
---
---
True, but so what?
You missed what was going on at the contacts and are, seemingly,
trying to make up for that by pontificating about irrelevancies.
---
---
A "contact burning tool"?
Where would I find one of those?
---
---
Not bad.
---
JF
S
Searcher7
Guest
On Jan 15, 4:51 pm, Rich Grise <ri...@example.net.invalid> wrote:
hard serrated plastic or similar material.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
Sigh... Obviously this has become useless, so I'll just have to try a
hard serrated plastic or similar material.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
J
Jamie
Guest
Searcher7 wrote:
On Jan 15, 6:03 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:52:25 -0500, "Josepi" <J...@easynews.calm
wrote:
Contact "wipe" is the term used for how much the contact travel overlaps and
is not a material.
---
Do you have a reference where 'wipe' is defined as a distance?
---
After a contact initially touches any further action will cause the contact
arm to bend and thus "wipe" or scrape the contact bump against the other
contact side bump. This effectively keeps the contact surfaces clean and
free of dust specs between the mating surfaces.
---
Dust 'specks', but not bad.
---
For reliable contacts the usual techniques are bifricated (dual arm ends and
contact surfaces),
---
"bifurcated".
---
dual contacts in parallel, silver or gold (best) contact
surfaces,
---
Whoa, Nellie...
The metals and alloys used for relay/switch contacts depends on the
service which they're designed for, so stating that silver or gold are
the 'best' contact surface is just wrong.
---
seal them in a dust enclosure or vaccum (best= no dust or oxide),
wet them with mercury or other liquid conductor (slow acting)
---
Oh, my...
Relay contacts wet with mercury are the fastest making and breaking
mechanical switches known and, as an aside, exhibit no bounce.
---
or any of the
above in combination. The arms need to be a different material for spring
action.
---
True, but so what?
You missed what was going on at the contacts and are, seemingly,
trying to make up for that by pontificating about irrelevancies.
---
If you want to actaull wipe a contact clean use isopropylene or a good
isopropyl alcohiol with low water or oil content and a good lint free cloth
wrapped around a contact burning tool, or just a burning tool designed for
that usage.
---
A "contact burning tool"?
Where would I find one of those?
---
Reed relay contacts are sealed in a vacuum bottle and can be operated via a
magnetic field.
---
Not bad.
---
JF
I've noticed that when questions are asked responders tend to fall
back on what is tried and tested, and they give answers in line with
what is proven with whatever application they *think* is being
referred to. There is no problem with that, but if someone is thinking
outside of the box there is resistance to the new idea, even though
the project is not completely understood by everyone else.
There is no need to explain the project. (And it would do no good
anyway without pictures).
So basically, the question is simple. But for some reason no one here
is getting it. They instead jump on me for not explaining it
completely.
I can only conclude that no one yet knows the answer and so I am in
uncharted territory as far as what I need. So I will have to
experiment with various solid materials in order to find one that will
relatively easily scrap the oxide off of phosphor-Bronze so a
electrical connection can be reliably made at the voltages I
mentioned.
P.S.: I'll say this. The device I'm designing will incorporate a
wiping motion *between* when the connections are made, so the actual
wiping will not occur between one contact and another, but *before*
they come together, which is why I am looking for a different non-
conductive material for wiping.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
sacrificial anode ?
S
Searcher7
Guest
On Jan 15, 6:03 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
back on what is tried and tested, and they give answers in line with
what is proven with whatever application they *think* is being
referred to. There is no problem with that, but if someone is thinking
outside of the box there is resistance to the new idea, even though
the project is not completely understood by everyone else.
There is no need to explain the project. (And it would do no good
anyway without pictures).
So basically, the question is simple. But for some reason no one here
is getting it. They instead jump on me for not explaining it
completely.
I can only conclude that no one yet knows the answer and so I am in
uncharted territory as far as what I need. So I will have to
experiment with various solid materials in order to find one that will
relatively easily scrap the oxide off of phosphor-Bronze so a
electrical connection can be reliably made at the voltages I
mentioned.
P.S.: I'll say this. The device I'm designing will incorporate a
wiping motion *between* when the connections are made, so the actual
wiping will not occur between one contact and another, but *before*
they come together, which is why I am looking for a different non-
conductive material for wiping.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
I've noticed that when questions are asked responders tend to fallOn Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:52:25 -0500, "Josepi" <J...@easynews.calm
wrote:
Contact "wipe" is the term used for how much the contact travel overlaps and
is not a material.
---
Do you have a reference where 'wipe' is defined as a distance?
---
After a contact initially touches any further action will cause the contact
arm to bend and thus "wipe" or scrape the contact bump against the other
contact side bump. This effectively keeps the contact surfaces clean and
free of dust specs between the mating surfaces.
---
Dust 'specks', but not bad.
---
For reliable contacts the usual techniques are bifricated (dual arm ends and
contact surfaces),
---
"bifurcated".
---
dual contacts in parallel, silver or gold (best) contact
surfaces,
---
Whoa, Nellie...
The metals and alloys used for relay/switch contacts depends on the
service which they're designed for, so stating that silver or gold are
the 'best' contact surface is just wrong.
---
seal them in a dust enclosure or vaccum (best= no dust or oxide),
wet them with mercury or other liquid conductor (slow acting)
---
Oh, my...
Relay contacts wet with mercury are the fastest making and breaking
mechanical switches known and, as an aside, exhibit no bounce.
---
or any of the
above in combination. The arms need to be a different material for spring
action.
---
True, but so what?
You missed what was going on at the contacts and are, seemingly,
trying to make up for that by pontificating about irrelevancies.
---
If you want to actaull wipe a contact clean use isopropylene or a good
isopropyl alcohiol with low water or oil content and a good lint free cloth
wrapped around a contact burning tool, or just a burning tool designed for
that usage.
---
A "contact burning tool"?
Where would I find one of those?
---
Reed relay contacts are sealed in a vacuum bottle and can be operated via a
magnetic field.
---
Not bad.
---
JF
back on what is tried and tested, and they give answers in line with
what is proven with whatever application they *think* is being
referred to. There is no problem with that, but if someone is thinking
outside of the box there is resistance to the new idea, even though
the project is not completely understood by everyone else.
There is no need to explain the project. (And it would do no good
anyway without pictures).
So basically, the question is simple. But for some reason no one here
is getting it. They instead jump on me for not explaining it
completely.
I can only conclude that no one yet knows the answer and so I am in
uncharted territory as far as what I need. So I will have to
experiment with various solid materials in order to find one that will
relatively easily scrap the oxide off of phosphor-Bronze so a
electrical connection can be reliably made at the voltages I
mentioned.
P.S.: I'll say this. The device I'm designing will incorporate a
wiping motion *between* when the connections are made, so the actual
wiping will not occur between one contact and another, but *before*
they come together, which is why I am looking for a different non-
conductive material for wiping.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
N
Nunya
Guest
On Jan 15, 3:03 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
Now, if only he would discontinue top posting.
I am reminded of Rodney King's words... :-|
Masterfully spoken.On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:52:25 -0500, "Josepi" <J...@easynews.calm
wrote:
Contact "wipe" is the term used for how much the contact travel overlaps and
is not a material.
---
Do you have a reference where 'wipe' is defined as a distance?
---
After a contact initially touches any further action will cause the contact
arm to bend and thus "wipe" or scrape the contact bump against the other
contact side bump. This effectively keeps the contact surfaces clean and
free of dust specs between the mating surfaces.
---
Dust 'specks', but not bad.
---
For reliable contacts the usual techniques are bifricated (dual arm ends and
contact surfaces),
---
"bifurcated".
---
dual contacts in parallel, silver or gold (best) contact
surfaces,
---
Whoa, Nellie...
The metals and alloys used for relay/switch contacts depends on the
service which they're designed for, so stating that silver or gold are
the 'best' contact surface is just wrong.
---
seal them in a dust enclosure or vaccum (best= no dust or oxide),
wet them with mercury or other liquid conductor (slow acting)
---
Oh, my...
Relay contacts wet with mercury are the fastest making and breaking
mechanical switches known and, as an aside, exhibit no bounce.
---
or any of the
above in combination. The arms need to be a different material for spring
action.
---
True, but so what?
You missed what was going on at the contacts and are, seemingly,
trying to make up for that by pontificating about irrelevancies.
---
If you want to actaull wipe a contact clean use isopropylene or a good
isopropyl alcohiol with low water or oil content and a good lint free cloth
wrapped around a contact burning tool, or just a burning tool designed for
that usage.
---
A "contact burning tool"?
Where would I find one of those?
---
Reed relay contacts are sealed in a vacuum bottle and can be operated via a
magnetic field.
---
Not bad.
---
JF
Now, if only he would discontinue top posting.
I am reminded of Rodney King's words... :-|
N
Nunya
Guest
On Jan 15, 3:28 pm, Searcher7 <Search...@mail.con2.com> wrote:
meant to be serviceable*, is by a process known as "burnishing".
The tool is a flat strip of thin metal with a face surface texture of
about 3600 grit. Short of having such an easily obtainable tool,
the best and second and ONLY other proper method is the "paper"
suggestion, but I would choose something a little stiffer than paper
towel, also exhibiting far less fiber.
So, I would use matchbook thickness or business card thickness media.
A business card, in fact, is a good, if not excellent choice. Not an
enameled version though.
The paper is a refined wood fiber pulp media that has the perfect mild
abrasion qualities required for the task. A true abrasive cloth is
not proper, and is meant for other applications.
If the contact faces have become pitted or damaged from an arcing/
current inrush event, you will likely not be able to get the original
face shape back. If it is your lawn mower "points",
you replace them, though I have made several keep on tickin'. Those
WOULD require at least one of the contacts be abraded.
For normal every day use though, you should never have to worry
about it, because any contact(pair) made from a proper media will be
one of those we (science) knows to be of a low oxidation factor, or of
one where it matters not. I believe, and only from _some_ experience,
so not expert, that Platinum is most common in small scale
applications, Gold is second, and most common due to modern
electroplating and alloys of gold being able to be referred to as
Gold, another is Silver, often used for RF where refined HV arcs would
be encountered and oxidation layers are OK.
Use the paper. Non conductive AND high Volt per mil isolation? Use
transformer paper. Top brand is "Nomex". Made by DuPont many decades
ago, and barely matched (others exist).
Something on the order of 1500 Volts per mil, IIRC, though I would
recommend at least 5 or 10 mil media to acquire the stiffness to push
as well as pull on it while clasped by the "contacts". 15 mil even
better.
Have a nice day...
The PROPER method to clean an electrical contact (pair) *that isOn Jan 15, 6:03 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:52:25 -0500, "Josepi" <J...@easynews.calm
wrote:
Contact "wipe" is the term used for how much the contact travel overlaps and
is not a material.
---
Do you have a reference where 'wipe' is defined as a distance?
---
After a contact initially touches any further action will cause the contact
arm to bend and thus "wipe" or scrape the contact bump against the other
contact side bump. This effectively keeps the contact surfaces clean and
free of dust specs between the mating surfaces.
---
Dust 'specks', but not bad.
---
For reliable contacts the usual techniques are bifricated (dual arm ends and
contact surfaces),
---
"bifurcated".
---
dual contacts in parallel, silver or gold (best) contact
surfaces,
---
Whoa, Nellie...
The metals and alloys used for relay/switch contacts depends on the
service which they're designed for, so stating that silver or gold are
the 'best' contact surface is just wrong.
---
seal them in a dust enclosure or vaccum (best= no dust or oxide),
wet them with mercury or other liquid conductor (slow acting)
---
Oh, my...
Relay contacts wet with mercury are the fastest making and breaking
mechanical switches known and, as an aside, exhibit no bounce.
---
or any of the
above in combination. The arms need to be a different material for spring
action.
---
True, but so what?
You missed what was going on at the contacts and are, seemingly,
trying to make up for that by pontificating about irrelevancies.
---
If you want to actaull wipe a contact clean use isopropylene or a good
isopropyl alcohiol with low water or oil content and a good lint free cloth
wrapped around a contact burning tool, or just a burning tool designed for
that usage.
---
A "contact burning tool"?
Where would I find one of those?
---
Reed relay contacts are sealed in a vacuum bottle and can be operated via a
magnetic field.
---
Not bad.
---
JF
I've noticed that when questions are asked responders tend to fall
back on what is tried and tested, and they give answers in line with
what is proven with whatever application they *think* is being
referred to. There is no problem with that, but if someone is thinking
outside of the box there is resistance to the new idea, even though
the project is not completely understood by everyone else.
There is no need to explain the project. (And it would do no good
anyway without pictures).
So basically, the question is simple. But for some reason no one here
is getting it. They instead jump on me for not explaining it
completely.
I can only conclude that no one yet knows the answer and so I am in
uncharted territory as far as what I need. So I will have to
experiment with various solid materials in order to find one that will
relatively easily scrap the oxide off of phosphor-Bronze so a
electrical connection can be reliably made at the voltages I
mentioned.
P.S.: I'll say this. The device I'm designing will incorporate a
wiping motion *between* when the connections are made, so the actual
wiping will not occur between one contact and another, but *before*
they come together, which is why I am looking for a different non-
conductive material for wiping.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
meant to be serviceable*, is by a process known as "burnishing".
The tool is a flat strip of thin metal with a face surface texture of
about 3600 grit. Short of having such an easily obtainable tool,
the best and second and ONLY other proper method is the "paper"
suggestion, but I would choose something a little stiffer than paper
towel, also exhibiting far less fiber.
So, I would use matchbook thickness or business card thickness media.
A business card, in fact, is a good, if not excellent choice. Not an
enameled version though.
The paper is a refined wood fiber pulp media that has the perfect mild
abrasion qualities required for the task. A true abrasive cloth is
not proper, and is meant for other applications.
If the contact faces have become pitted or damaged from an arcing/
current inrush event, you will likely not be able to get the original
face shape back. If it is your lawn mower "points",
you replace them, though I have made several keep on tickin'. Those
WOULD require at least one of the contacts be abraded.
For normal every day use though, you should never have to worry
about it, because any contact(pair) made from a proper media will be
one of those we (science) knows to be of a low oxidation factor, or of
one where it matters not. I believe, and only from _some_ experience,
so not expert, that Platinum is most common in small scale
applications, Gold is second, and most common due to modern
electroplating and alloys of gold being able to be referred to as
Gold, another is Silver, often used for RF where refined HV arcs would
be encountered and oxidation layers are OK.
Use the paper. Non conductive AND high Volt per mil isolation? Use
transformer paper. Top brand is "Nomex". Made by DuPont many decades
ago, and barely matched (others exist).
Something on the order of 1500 Volts per mil, IIRC, though I would
recommend at least 5 or 10 mil media to acquire the stiffness to push
as well as pull on it while clasped by the "contacts". 15 mil even
better.
Have a nice day...
N
Nunya
Guest
On Jan 14, 10:36 pm, The Ghost In The Machine <proteus...@gmail.com>
wrote:
The part you got wrong is any need to clean it. Platinum does NOT
oxidize... EVER.
I think you shoved some evaporating solvents up your nose.
What happens to those plastic relay covers, eh?
Hehehahehe
wrote:
This idiot got one right! Pt is best in SOME applications.
The part you got wrong is any need to clean it. Platinum does NOT
oxidize... EVER.
I think you shoved some evaporating solvents up your nose.
What happens to those plastic relay covers, eh?
Hehehahehe
N
Nunya
Guest
On Jan 15, 1:51 pm, Rich Grise <ri...@example.net.invalid> wrote:
I refurbbed many an old contacts type pinball machines. The bare
metal burnishing stick is all ya need.
If they are rough, you replace 'em or live with 'em. Not much can be
done if their faces are different than from new and unabused.
Too rough.
I refurbbed many an old contacts type pinball machines. The bare
metal burnishing stick is all ya need.
If they are rough, you replace 'em or live with 'em. Not much can be
done if their faces are different than from new and unabused.
S
Searcher7
Guest
On Jan 15, 7:33 pm, Nunya <jack_sheph...@cox.net> wrote:
+5V, +12V, +24V). And there will be no arcing anyway, because there
will be no current during either make or break. And though not air
tight, this will be an enclosed project. So paper will not do, because
I'm looking for something permanent. A stiff wiping material to put
inside the enclosure.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
As I mentioned, outside of data lines, voltages will be small(-5V,On Jan 15, 3:28 pm, Searcher7 <Search...@mail.con2.com> wrote:
On Jan 15, 6:03 pm, John Fields <jfie...@austininstruments.com> wrote:
On Fri, 14 Jan 2011 22:52:25 -0500, "Josepi" <J...@easynews.calm
wrote:
Contact "wipe" is the term used for how much the contact travel overlaps and
is not a material.
---
Do you have a reference where 'wipe' is defined as a distance?
---
After a contact initially touches any further action will cause the contact
arm to bend and thus "wipe" or scrape the contact bump against the other
contact side bump. This effectively keeps the contact surfaces clean and
free of dust specs between the mating surfaces.
---
Dust 'specks', but not bad.
---
For reliable contacts the usual techniques are bifricated (dual arm ends and
contact surfaces),
---
"bifurcated".
---
dual contacts in parallel, silver or gold (best) contact
surfaces,
---
Whoa, Nellie...
The metals and alloys used for relay/switch contacts depends on the
service which they're designed for, so stating that silver or gold are
the 'best' contact surface is just wrong.
---
seal them in a dust enclosure or vaccum (best= no dust or oxide),
wet them with mercury or other liquid conductor (slow acting)
---
Oh, my...
Relay contacts wet with mercury are the fastest making and breaking
mechanical switches known and, as an aside, exhibit no bounce.
---
or any of the
above in combination. The arms need to be a different material for spring
action.
---
True, but so what?
You missed what was going on at the contacts and are, seemingly,
trying to make up for that by pontificating about irrelevancies.
---
If you want to actaull wipe a contact clean use isopropylene or a good
isopropyl alcohiol with low water or oil content and a good lint free cloth
wrapped around a contact burning tool, or just a burning tool designed for
that usage.
---
A "contact burning tool"?
Where would I find one of those?
---
Reed relay contacts are sealed in a vacuum bottle and can be operated via a
magnetic field.
---
Not bad.
---
JF
I've noticed that when questions are asked responders tend to fall
back on what is tried and tested, and they give answers in line with
what is proven with whatever application they *think* is being
referred to. There is no problem with that, but if someone is thinking
outside of the box there is resistance to the new idea, even though
the project is not completely understood by everyone else.
There is no need to explain the project. (And it would do no good
anyway without pictures).
So basically, the question is simple. But for some reason no one here
is getting it. They instead jump on me for not explaining it
completely.
I can only conclude that no one yet knows the answer and so I am in
uncharted territory as far as what I need. So I will have to
experiment with various solid materials in order to find one that will
relatively easily scrap the oxide off of phosphor-Bronze so a
electrical connection can be reliably made at the voltages I
mentioned.
P.S.: I'll say this. The device I'm designing will incorporate a
wiping motion *between* when the connections are made, so the actual
wiping will not occur between one contact and another, but *before*
they come together, which is why I am looking for a different non-
conductive material for wiping.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
The PROPER method to clean an electrical contact (pair) *that is
meant to be serviceable*, is by a process known as "burnishing".
The tool is a flat strip of thin metal with a face surface texture of
about 3600 grit. Short of having such an easily obtainable tool,
the best and second and ONLY other proper method is the "paper"
suggestion, but I would choose something a little stiffer than paper
towel, also exhibiting far less fiber.
So, I would use matchbook thickness or business card thickness media.
A business card, in fact, is a good, if not excellent choice. Not an
enameled version though.
The paper is a refined wood fiber pulp media that has the perfect mild
abrasion qualities required for the task. A true abrasive cloth is
not proper, and is meant for other applications.
If the contact faces have become pitted or damaged from an arcing/
current inrush event, you will likely not be able to get the original
face shape back. If it is your lawn mower "points",
you replace them, though I have made several keep on tickin'. Those
WOULD require at least one of the contacts be abraded.
For normal every day use though, you should never have to worry
about it, because any contact(pair) made from a proper media will be
one of those we (science) knows to be of a low oxidation factor, or of
one where it matters not. I believe, and only from _some_ experience,
so not expert, that Platinum is most common in small scale
applications, Gold is second, and most common due to modern
electroplating and alloys of gold being able to be referred to as
Gold, another is Silver, often used for RF where refined HV arcs would
be encountered and oxidation layers are OK.
Use the paper. Non conductive AND high Volt per mil isolation? Use
transformer paper. Top brand is "Nomex". Made by DuPont many decades
ago, and barely matched (others exist).
Something on the order of 1500 Volts per mil, IIRC, though I would
recommend at least 5 or 10 mil media to acquire the stiffness to push
as well as pull on it while clasped by the "contacts". 15 mil even
better.
Have a nice day...
+5V, +12V, +24V). And there will be no arcing anyway, because there
will be no current during either make or break. And though not air
tight, this will be an enclosed project. So paper will not do, because
I'm looking for something permanent. A stiff wiping material to put
inside the enclosure.
Thanks.
Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.
J
Jasen Betts
Guest
On 2011-01-16, Searcher7 <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
resistant resin. 15mil is approximately business-card thickness.
in my experience it's much stiffer than ordinary paper products.
If you don't like that you could try FR-2 or FR-4 printed circuit board
material, FR-2 is wood-fibre based FR-4 is glass-fibre based.
FR4 is available in amny different thicknesses.
--
ââ 100% natural
transformer paper is wood fibre impregnated with some sort of heat
resistant resin. 15mil is approximately business-card thickness.
in my experience it's much stiffer than ordinary paper products.
If you don't like that you could try FR-2 or FR-4 printed circuit board
material, FR-2 is wood-fibre based FR-4 is glass-fibre based.
FR4 is available in amny different thicknesses.
--
ââ 100% natural
T
The Ghost In The Machine
Guest
On Jan 15, 7:42 pm, Nunya <jack_sheph...@cox.net> wrote:
YOUR COCAINE ADDICTION HAS RUINED YOUR BRAIN..IT IS HARD AS GYPSUM.
BEWARE...ONE FALSE MOVE AND IT WILL CRUMBLE LIKE A COOKIE, FOOL.
ELECTRONS WILL CAUSE PARTICLES TO MIGRATE ONTO ITS SURFACE.
NOW TAKE YOUR FAGGOTY ASS OUT AND STOP ANNOYING ME, FREAK!
PATECUM
NUNCOMPOOP YOUR GAY LITTLE CONFIDENCE IS MISPLACED.
YOUR COCAINE ADDICTION HAS RUINED YOUR BRAIN..IT IS HARD AS GYPSUM.
BEWARE...ONE FALSE MOVE AND IT WILL CRUMBLE LIKE A COOKIE, FOOL.
ELECTRONS WILL CAUSE PARTICLES TO MIGRATE ONTO ITS SURFACE.
NOW TAKE YOUR FAGGOTY ASS OUT AND STOP ANNOYING ME, FREAK!
PATECUM
N
Nunya
Guest
On Jan 15, 6:12Â pm, Jasen Betts <ja...@xnet.co.nz> wrote:
abrade, i.e. wear.
The x-former paper is the standard in so many sci circles where
electrical isolation is required. There are even zero outgass
varieties for high vacuum use.
Pieces of ARE in fact used as structural elements in mechanical
systems as well. It is cheaper than circuit board media, and they
make it in sheets... big sheets.
Cut to order or sent in 4 foot wide rolls if ye like. Google Du Pont
Nomex
I'll bet some kid could make one of those gravity cars from it and
do well. Strong stuff.
Well, with glass, being harder than steel, those contacts would
abrade, i.e. wear.
The x-former paper is the standard in so many sci circles where
electrical isolation is required. There are even zero outgass
varieties for high vacuum use.
Pieces of ARE in fact used as structural elements in mechanical
systems as well. It is cheaper than circuit board media, and they
make it in sheets... big sheets.
Cut to order or sent in 4 foot wide rolls if ye like. Google Du Pont
Nomex
I'll bet some kid could make one of those gravity cars from it and
do well. Strong stuff.
B
Baron
Guest
Nunya Inscribed thus:
the hard folded ones, about a foot square and usually found in factory
washrooms. They have a hard lint free surface which makes the material
suitable for this purpose. I've also used the hard toilet sheets, the
ones with a smooth surface on one side, for small contact points with
good results.
the only type that a contact burnishing file should be used on. I
recall that in the old "Kettering Ignition" days, a suitable "Contact
File" was always a must have toolbox item. As was a spare points set
and condenser !
Best Regards:
Baron.
The type of paper towel that I referred to and have used many times is
the hard folded ones, about a foot square and usually found in factory
washrooms. They have a hard lint free surface which makes the material
suitable for this purpose. I've also used the hard toilet sheets, the
ones with a smooth surface on one side, for small contact points with
good results.
I would suggest that the type of contacts (points) that you refer to are
the only type that a contact burnishing file should be used on. I
recall that in the old "Kettering Ignition" days, a suitable "Contact
File" was always a must have toolbox item. As was a spare points set
and condenser !
--
Best Regards:
Baron.
A
Andrew Gabriel
Guest
In article <ac4758d0-9d9c-4585-b9b7-e62bf97606af@k25g2000vbl.googlegroups.com>,
Nunya <jack_shephard@cox.net> writes:
often use an (unpunched) card for this purpose. It was just the right
abrasiveness and stiffness for cleaning many things including contact
surfaces and disk head surfaces of that time. Cards were cleaned of
loose dust during manufacture to prevent dust shedding into card
punches and readers. They were also made of paper which doesn't
soften if it gets wet, so you could if necessary use water or a
solvent on them too, whilst still staying abrasive and without going
soggy (although they were mostly used dry).
Paper tape had the same properties, but was thinner, and finer level
of abrasiveness.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
Nunya <jack_shephard@cox.net> writes:
Back in the days of punched cards, field service engineers would
often use an (unpunched) card for this purpose. It was just the right
abrasiveness and stiffness for cleaning many things including contact
surfaces and disk head surfaces of that time. Cards were cleaned of
loose dust during manufacture to prevent dust shedding into card
punches and readers. They were also made of paper which doesn't
soften if it gets wet, so you could if necessary use water or a
solvent on them too, whilst still staying abrasive and without going
soggy (although they were mostly used dry).
Paper tape had the same properties, but was thinner, and finer level
of abrasiveness.
--
Andrew Gabriel
[email address is not usable -- followup in the newsgroup]
J
John Fields
Guest
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 16:55:13 -0800 (PST), Searcher7
<Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
Sounds to me like you're dreaming up a mechanical nightmare, what with
having to put the paper in there, do a little wiping, and then remove
the paper before the contacts close.
Since you're doing dry switching, why not use something hermetically
sealed and totally impervious to dirt and oxidation, like a reed relay
or any of the myriad hermetically sealed miniature relays available?
---
JF
<Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
---
Sounds to me like you're dreaming up a mechanical nightmare, what with
having to put the paper in there, do a little wiping, and then remove
the paper before the contacts close.
Since you're doing dry switching, why not use something hermetically
sealed and totally impervious to dirt and oxidation, like a reed relay
or any of the myriad hermetically sealed miniature relays available?
---
JF
J
John Fields
Guest
On Sat, 15 Jan 2011 18:57:55 -0500, Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:
Since when is a sacrificial anode non-conducting and, why would he
want to fill up the relay with a conductive fluid???
---
JF
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote:
---
Since when is a sacrificial anode non-conducting and, why would he
want to fill up the relay with a conductive fluid???
---
JF
S
Stuart
Guest
In article
<c402c8fe-7c8a-4d63-82e0-755ee2b65b8f@q18g2000vbk.googlegroups.com>,
Searcher7 <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
I'm now just trying to visualise the arrangement you are proposing.
--
Stuart Winsor
Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011
<c402c8fe-7c8a-4d63-82e0-755ee2b65b8f@q18g2000vbk.googlegroups.com>,
Searcher7 <Searcher7@mail.con2.com> wrote:
That makes things clearer.
I'm now just trying to visualise the arrangement you are proposing.
--
Stuart Winsor
Midland RISC OS show - Sat July 9th 2011
J
Jamie
Guest
John Fields wrote:
Guess you've never seen S-anode contacts. Similar to wetting.
Jamie
Guess you've never seen S-anode contacts. Similar to wetting.
Jamie