Early compact fluoro failure - Philips

On 17/10/2010 11:43 AM, Techo wrote:
These pictures show absolutely nothing, why are you even bothering. Just
another hobbyist who thinks that they are an expert but in reality not
having a clue.
OK, since Phil can't, perhaps you'd care to explain why shorting of
poorly insulated wires either to each other, or to the underside of the
circuit board, is not an issue.

Sylvia.
 
"Nobody is Stupider than Sylvia Else"

A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures.

** Not one bit true.

The pics show NOTHING that would cause early failure.

Just another boring, fuckwit troll from the maddest bitch in Sydney.





..... Phil
 
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hv68sF9h3U1@mid.individual.net...
On 17/10/2010 10:21 AM, Mr.T wrote:
"Sylvia Else"<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8htf4bFc27U1@mid.individual.net...
Now that I knew how they were held together, I had reasonable confidence
I could get one apart and reassemble it without breaking it. It is a
newer model, with a quite different circuit board. The wires are fully
insulated over their entire length. So it looks like Philips themselves
realised that the earlier product wasn't good enough.

And it does still work after I've reassembled it.

Lucky you, I have a brand New one bought as a spare, and it never worked
at
all when I actually wanted to use it, and the receipt had long gone.
The cost of chasing Phillips is probably as much as the cost of buying a
new
lamp,

Depends how you go about it. Clearly you aren't going to sue Philips in a
small claims tribunal, but if a couple of emails result in a new one being
posted to you (whether that would happen I don't know), then it's probably
worth while.

so I simply NEVER buy another Phillips, (or Mirrabella :-(
Still have the old (new) globe I use to warn my friends as well though
:)

I suspect you'll run out of brands quite quickly using that approach.

Sylvia.

When lamps ' were blown ' in Newcastle Australia a few years ago, most
brands originated from that factory. No doubt the same is happening in China
these days. But at a standard far below those that came from Newcastle. For
instance I have found a greater number of lamps where the glass bulb
detaches from the base at a far greater frequency these days.
 
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hv75fFcleU1@mid.individual.net...
On 17/10/2010 11:43 AM, Techo wrote:
These pictures show absolutely nothing, why are you even bothering. Just
another hobbyist who thinks that they are an expert but in reality not
having a clue.



OK, since Phil can't, perhaps you'd care to explain why shorting of poorly
insulated wires either to each other, or to the underside of the circuit
board, is not an issue.

Sylvia.
The ' poorly insulated wires ' have nothing to do with the failure. How
would they be shorting? How would they short to the ' underside of the
circuit board '? It would be physically impossible without tampering
 
On 17/10/2010 2:49 PM, Metro wrote:
"Sylvia Else"<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hv75fFcleU1@mid.individual.net...
On 17/10/2010 11:43 AM, Techo wrote:
These pictures show absolutely nothing, why are you even bothering. Just
another hobbyist who thinks that they are an expert but in reality not
having a clue.



OK, since Phil can't, perhaps you'd care to explain why shorting of poorly
insulated wires either to each other, or to the underside of the circuit
board, is not an issue.

Sylvia.

The ' poorly insulated wires ' have nothing to do with the failure. How
would they be shorting? How would they short to the ' underside of the
circuit board '? It would be physically impossible without tampering



Because of the position of the insulating sleeve on the uppermost wire,
it can short to its adjacent wire which has no insulation. In the second
picture, the two wires can be seen to be touching just to the right of
the platic base fo which the tube is attached. As I've indicated, the
wires themselves are either not insulated at all, or the insulation is
poor, because I can make contact along their length using multimeter probes.

When the lamp is assembled the wires lie along the back of the circuit
board. Where the wires have no insulating sleeve, they can make contact
with the circuit tracks and component leads on the back of the board.
The lower three wires can all make contact with something they should
not on the back of the circuit board adjacent to the connecting pins.

Sylvia.
 
We can't move forward if you keep holding back Phil.


Phil Allison wrote:
"Nobody is Stupider than Sylvia Else"

A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures.


** Not one bit true.

The pics show NOTHING that would cause early failure.

Just another boring, fuckwit troll from the maddest bitch in Sydney.





.... Phil
 
I guess some of us are just more reserved.


"Mark Harriss" <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ntmdncIuRNKzJyfRnZ2dnUVZ8j6dnZ2d@westnet.com.au...
We can't move forward if you keep holding back Phil.


Phil Allison wrote:
"Nobody is Stupider than Sylvia Else"

A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures.


** Not one bit true.

The pics show NOTHING that would cause early failure.

Just another boring, fuckwit troll from the maddest bitch in Sydney.





.... Phil
 
Also top posting makes him a bit narky too.


Dennis wrote:
I guess some of us are just more reserved.


"Mark Harriss" <billy@blartco.co.uk> wrote in message
news:ntmdncIuRNKzJyfRnZ2dnUVZ8j6dnZ2d@westnet.com.au...

We can't move forward if you keep holding back Phil.


Phil Allison wrote:
"Nobody is Stupider than Sylvia Else"

A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures.

** Not one bit true.

The pics show NOTHING that would cause early failure.

Just another boring, fuckwit troll from the maddest bitch in Sydney.





.... Phil
 
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hqss7FthgU1@mid.individual.net...
A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures. It seems to me
that the insulation on the copper wire at the the top of the picture has
no business being stuck up there entangled with the attachment pin. It's
surely meant to be lower down, as the other two are (and why not three?),
to prevent the wires from touching.

It's not even clear whether the wire is heavily oxidised, or badly
enameled - I can make contact using meter probes at some points along it.

Any, I think Philips should provide a replacement at their cost - I'll see
what they say.

Sylvia.
At the price I paid for a load of Philips CFLs it would cost more to phone
and complain, the supermarket put them on offer at 99p then added a buy one
get one free.

Besides, I've yet to have one fail.
 
Ian Field Inscribed thus:

"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hqss7FthgU1@mid.individual.net...
A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a
large number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures. It seems to
me that the insulation on the copper wire at the the top of the
picture has no business being stuck up there entangled with the
attachment pin. It's surely meant to be lower down, as the other two
are (and why not three?), to prevent the wires from touching.

It's not even clear whether the wire is heavily oxidised, or badly
enameled - I can make contact using meter probes at some points along
it.

Any, I think Philips should provide a replacement at their cost -
I'll see what they say.

Sylvia.


At the price I paid for a load of Philips CFLs it would cost more to
phone and complain, the supermarket put them on offer at 99p then
added a buy one get one free.

Besides, I've yet to have one fail.
You was robbed. ;-) Morrisons did a box of 10 for ÂŁ1.00 not too long
ago. I must admit I've yet to use one. But I agree, its not worth the
effort for a dud, not to mention the cost of fuel returning them if the
whole boxful was dead.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.
 
"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hv68sF9h3U1@mid.individual.net...
so I simply NEVER buy another Phillips, (or Mirrabella :-(
Still have the old (new) globe I use to warn my friends as well though
:)

I suspect you'll run out of brands quite quickly using that approach.
Unfortunately true. But I try not to reward bad companies with more of my
money as the very least I can do.

MrT.
 
"mark krawczuk"

bitch ? is she female then ?
she can email me at : krawczuk@adam.com.au

** This web page has an email addy for Sylvia:

http://cryogenic.net/sylvia/index.html

There was for a time a small pic of her on the net when she was the
secretary of the NLP ( defunct nudist party in NSW ) - it showed a skinny
and very plain gal of about 35 or 40.



..... Phil
 
bitch ? is she female then ? she can email me at : krawczuk@adam.com.au


"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote in message
news:8hv7avFeacU1@mid.individual.net...
"Nobody is Stupider than Sylvia Else"

A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures.


** Not one bit true.

The pics show NOTHING that would cause early failure.

Just another boring, fuckwit troll from the maddest bitch in Sydney.





.... Phil
 
kreed wrote:
On Oct 17, 2:51 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
On 17/10/2010 2:49 PM, Metro wrote:

"Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hv75fFcleU1@mid.individual.net...
On 17/10/2010 11:43 AM, Techo wrote:
These pictures show absolutely nothing, why are you even bothering. Just
another hobbyist who thinks that they are an expert but in reality not
having a clue.

OK, since Phil can't, perhaps you'd care to explain why shorting of poorly
insulated wires either to each other, or to the underside of the circuit
board, is not an issue.

Sylvia.

The ' poorly insulated wires ' have nothing to do with the failure. How
would they be shorting? How would they short to the ' underside of the
circuit board '? It would be physically impossible without tampering

Because of the position of the insulating sleeve on the uppermost wire,
it can short to its adjacent wire which has no insulation. In the second
picture, the two wires can be seen to be touching just to the right of
the platic base fo which the tube is attached. As I've indicated, the
wires themselves are either not insulated at all, or the insulation is
poor, because I can make contact along their length using multimeter probes.

When the lamp is assembled the wires lie along the back of the circuit
board. Where the wires have no insulating sleeve, they can make contact
with the circuit tracks and component leads on the back of the board.
The lower three wires can all make contact with something they should
not on the back of the circuit board adjacent to the connecting pins.

Sylvia.

Are they enamelled copper wire ?
If it is enameled it can not be any good as Sylvia made contact along
wire with the meter probes

That should be able to cope with any voltages present in that
circuit ?

That spaghetti over the top would mostly be for protection from heat ?
 
On Oct 17, 2:51 pm, Sylvia Else <syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
On 17/10/2010 2:49 PM, Metro wrote:

"Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid>  wrote in message
news:8hv75fFcleU1@mid.individual.net...
On 17/10/2010 11:43 AM, Techo wrote:
These pictures show absolutely nothing, why are you even bothering. Just
another hobbyist who thinks that they are an expert but in reality not
having a clue.

OK, since Phil can't, perhaps you'd care to explain why shorting of poorly
insulated wires either to each other, or to the underside of the circuit
board, is not an issue.

Sylvia.

The ' poorly insulated wires ' have nothing to do with the failure. How
would they be shorting?  How would they short to the  '  underside of the
circuit board '? It would be physically impossible without tampering

Because of the position of the insulating sleeve on the uppermost wire,
it can short to its adjacent wire which has no insulation. In the second
picture, the two wires can be seen to be touching just to the right of
the platic base fo which the tube is attached. As I've indicated, the
wires themselves are either not insulated at all, or the insulation is
poor, because I can make contact along their length using multimeter probes.

When the lamp is assembled the wires lie along the back of the circuit
board. Where the wires have no insulating sleeve, they can make contact
with the circuit tracks and component leads on the back of the board.
The lower three wires can all make contact with something they should
not on the back of the circuit board adjacent to the connecting pins.

Sylvia.
Are they enamelled copper wire ?
That should be able to cope with any voltages present in that
circuit ?

That spaghetti over the top would mostly be for protection from heat ?
 
On Oct 18, 1:53 pm, "mark krawczuk" <krawc...@adam.com.au> wrote:
bitch ?  is she female then ?  she can email me at  : krawc...@adam..com.au

"Phil Allison" <phi...@tpg.com.au> wrote in message

news:8hv7avFeacU1@mid.individual.net...


Yes, she is.




"Nobody is Stupider than Sylvia Else"

A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures.

** Not one bit true.

The pics show  NOTHING  that would cause early failure.

Just another boring, fuckwit troll from the maddest bitch in Sydney.

....   Phil
 
On Oct 18, 11:57 pm, F Murtz <hagg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
kreed wrote:
On Oct 17, 2:51 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid>  wrote:
On 17/10/2010 2:49 PM, Metro wrote:

"Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid>    wrote in message
news:8hv75fFcleU1@mid.individual.net...
On 17/10/2010 11:43 AM, Techo wrote:
These pictures show absolutely nothing, why are you even bothering. Just
another hobbyist who thinks that they are an expert but in reality not
having a clue.

OK, since Phil can't, perhaps you'd care to explain why shorting of poorly
insulated wires either to each other, or to the underside of the circuit
board, is not an issue.

Sylvia.

The ' poorly insulated wires ' have nothing to do with the failure. How
would they be shorting?  How would they short to the  '  underside of the
circuit board '? It would be physically impossible without tampering

Because of the position of the insulating sleeve on the uppermost wire,
it can short to its adjacent wire which has no insulation. In the second
picture, the two wires can be seen to be touching just to the right of
the platic base fo which the tube is attached. As I've indicated, the
wires themselves are either not insulated at all, or the insulation is
poor, because I can make contact along their length using multimeter probes.

When the lamp is assembled the wires lie along the back of the circuit
board. Where the wires have no insulating sleeve, they can make contact
with the circuit tracks and component leads on the back of the board.
The lower three wires can all make contact with something they should
not on the back of the circuit board adjacent to the connecting pins.

Sylvia.

Are they enamelled copper wire ?

If it is enameled it can not be any good as Sylvia made contact along
wire with the meter probes

That should be able to cope with any voltages present in that
circuit ?

That spaghetti over the top would mostly be for protection from heat ?

I wonder how good the enamelled wire is in the transformer then ?
Might be worth looking at, but also might not be from the same
supplier.
 
On 19/10/2010 1:13 AM, kreed wrote:
On Oct 18, 11:57 pm, F Murtz<hagg...@hotmail.com> wrote:
kreed wrote:
On Oct 17, 2:51 pm, Sylvia Else<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote:
On 17/10/2010 2:49 PM, Metro wrote:

"Sylvia Else"<syl...@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hv75fFcleU1@mid.individual.net...
On 17/10/2010 11:43 AM, Techo wrote:
These pictures show absolutely nothing, why are you even bothering. Just
another hobbyist who thinks that they are an expert but in reality not
having a clue.

OK, since Phil can't, perhaps you'd care to explain why shorting of poorly
insulated wires either to each other, or to the underside of the circuit
board, is not an issue.

Sylvia.

The ' poorly insulated wires ' have nothing to do with the failure. How
would they be shorting? How would they short to the ' underside of the
circuit board '? It would be physically impossible without tampering

Because of the position of the insulating sleeve on the uppermost wire,
it can short to its adjacent wire which has no insulation. In the second
picture, the two wires can be seen to be touching just to the right of
the platic base fo which the tube is attached. As I've indicated, the
wires themselves are either not insulated at all, or the insulation is
poor, because I can make contact along their length using multimeter probes.

When the lamp is assembled the wires lie along the back of the circuit
board. Where the wires have no insulating sleeve, they can make contact
with the circuit tracks and component leads on the back of the board.
The lower three wires can all make contact with something they should
not on the back of the circuit board adjacent to the connecting pins.

Sylvia.

Are they enamelled copper wire ?

If it is enameled it can not be any good as Sylvia made contact along
wire with the meter probes

That should be able to cope with any voltages present in that
circuit ?

That spaghetti over the top would mostly be for protection from heat ?


I wonder how good the enamelled wire is in the transformer then ?
Might be worth looking at, but also might not be from the same
supplier.
An earlier post indicated that the wire leading to the tube is a special
alloy to handle the high temperatures associated with being inserted
into the molten glass during the tube manufacture. I haven't checked,
but it seems plausible. If that's the case, the the transformer won't
use the same wire.

Sylvia.
 
On 18/10/2010 8:00 AM, Ian Field wrote:
"Sylvia Else"<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hqss7FthgU1@mid.individual.net...
A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures. It seems to me
that the insulation on the copper wire at the the top of the picture has
no business being stuck up there entangled with the attachment pin. It's
surely meant to be lower down, as the other two are (and why not three?),
to prevent the wires from touching.

It's not even clear whether the wire is heavily oxidised, or badly
enameled - I can make contact using meter probes at some points along it.

Any, I think Philips should provide a replacement at their cost - I'll see
what they say.

Sylvia.


At the price I paid for a load of Philips CFLs it would cost more to phone
and complain, the supermarket put them on offer at 99p then added a buy one
get one free.
Perhaps they were offloading the dodgy ones after Philips moved to a
better quality construction.

I haven't phoned to complain. Only emailed. So the only cost to me was
my time. I feel the expenditure of time is worthwhile when a product has
not merely failed, but appears to have done so because of poor design or
manufacture.

Besides, I've yet to have one fail.
Luck, perhaps. Mine lasted a fair while - just nothing like as long as
Philips claimed, given its limited usage.

Sylvia.
 
On Tue, 19 Oct 2010 11:57:08 +1100, Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

On 18/10/2010 8:00 AM, Ian Field wrote:
"Sylvia Else"<sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:8hqss7FthgU1@mid.individual.net...
A had a Philips compact fluoro fail after what cannot have been a large
number of hours. I pulled it apart to see what was wrong.

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro1.jpg

http://members.optusnet.com.au/sylviae/philipsFluoro2.jpg

I rather think the reason is apparent in those pictures. It seems to me
that the insulation on the copper wire at the the top of the picture has
no business being stuck up there entangled with the attachment pin. It's
surely meant to be lower down, as the other two are (and why not three?),
to prevent the wires from touching.

It's not even clear whether the wire is heavily oxidised, or badly
enameled - I can make contact using meter probes at some points along it.

Any, I think Philips should provide a replacement at their cost - I'll see
what they say.

Sylvia.


At the price I paid for a load of Philips CFLs it would cost more to phone
and complain, the supermarket put them on offer at 99p then added a buy one
get one free.

Perhaps they were offloading the dodgy ones after Philips moved to a
better quality construction.

I haven't phoned to complain. Only emailed. So the only cost to me was
my time. I feel the expenditure of time is worthwhile when a product has
not merely failed, but appears to have done so because of poor design or
manufacture.


Besides, I've yet to have one fail.


Luck, perhaps. Mine lasted a fair while - just nothing like as long as
Philips claimed, given its limited usage.
I forget, was the CFL used sideways? That seems to cause grief to some
CFLs I had a pair of cheapies go within a week of each well before
the manufacture date code was a year old.

I have a few specialty 24W triphosphor daylight ones that specify vertical
operation, either direction, on the box. But I haven't seen that restriction
on the 'normal' cheaper CFLs.

Grant.
 

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