Driver to drive?

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:16:16 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 19:42:56 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5601ad59$0$5917$4c5ecfc7@frugalusenet.com...
So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend with a
dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT 100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments rattling
around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions for a
more reliable replacement?


You can get MLCC capacitors as big as 180uF - but it won't fit in the
original space.

They're mostly advertised as SMD, but that certainly won't fit - a few
suppliers offer resin dipped leaded versions that you could form the leads
to meet the pads.

Aluminium electrolytics of any kind are a no no! - there was much chatter
about organic semiconductor electrolytics a decade or so ago, that were
claimed to be as good as tantalum, but it lately seems to have gone very
quiet on that front.

The polymer aluminums are really good. Low leakage, low ESR, don't dry
out.
Click to expand...

Oh boy, I'm going to look uninformed, but polymer Al's are different from
"normal" Al's? (I appointed myself capacitor Czar (well maybe just an
Earl.) at our company, and now I'm feeling very ignorant.)
There look to be polymer Tant's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor

George H.
 
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 6:11:02 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 21:22:01 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"George Herold" <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote in message
news:13d14e72-d6f6-4c8a-90b7-937a30049093@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:16:16 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 19:42:56 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5601ad59$0$5917$4c5ecfc7@frugalusenet.com...
So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with a
dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling
around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions
for a
more reliable replacement?


You can get MLCC capacitors as big as 180uF - but it won't fit in the
original space.

They're mostly advertised as SMD, but that certainly won't fit - a few
suppliers offer resin dipped leaded versions that you could form the
leads
to meet the pads.

Aluminium electrolytics of any kind are a no no! - there was much
chatter
about organic semiconductor electrolytics a decade or so ago, that were
claimed to be as good as tantalum, but it lately seems to have gone very
quiet on that front.

The polymer aluminums are really good. Low leakage, low ESR, don't dry
out.

Oh boy, I'm going to look uninformed, but polymer Al's are different from
"normal" Al's? (I appointed myself capacitor Czar (well maybe just an
Earl.) at our company, and now I'm feeling very ignorant.)
There look to be polymer Tant's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor

It crossed my mind that the polymer might be vulnerable to temperature - but
apparently its a coiled/sprung polymer that controls the viscosity in motor
oil, and that has to survive pretty extreme temperatures.

The polymer caps are dry inside, unlike regular aluminum
electrolytics. They have very low ESRs which stay low below 0 degrees
C, when aluminums freeze and ESR goes to hell.
Click to expand...
Oh, the question then is how low will they go?
(maybe someone has stuck them into LN2)

Unlike regular 'lytics, they have very low leakage current up to
roughly 1.5 or so of rated voltage, when they fail suddenly and
permanently.

We use them at switching regulator outputs and when we might have
current steps, like to power an FPGA.
Click to expand...

Got it, Thanks.

(the leakage on regular 'lytics is not as bad as the spec sheet.
at least near room temp. but I think we've been there before...)

With pic's on wiki, I now see a colleague uses them
in an* led strobe circuit.
I assume they are more expensive.


George H.
*an "el, e, dee", letters
or a "lead" one word?
 
"George Herold" <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote in message
news:13d14e72-d6f6-4c8a-90b7-937a30049093@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:16:16 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 19:42:56 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5601ad59$0$5917$4c5ecfc7@frugalusenet.com...
So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with a
dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling
around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions
for a
more reliable replacement?


You can get MLCC capacitors as big as 180uF - but it won't fit in the
original space.

They're mostly advertised as SMD, but that certainly won't fit - a few
suppliers offer resin dipped leaded versions that you could form the
leads
to meet the pads.

Aluminium electrolytics of any kind are a no no! - there was much
chatter
about organic semiconductor electrolytics a decade or so ago, that were
claimed to be as good as tantalum, but it lately seems to have gone very
quiet on that front.

The polymer aluminums are really good. Low leakage, low ESR, don't dry
out.

Oh boy, I'm going to look uninformed, but polymer Al's are different from
"normal" Al's? (I appointed myself capacitor Czar (well maybe just an
Earl.) at our company, and now I'm feeling very ignorant.)
There look to be polymer Tant's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor
Click to expand...

It crossed my mind that the polymer might be vulnerable to temperature - but
apparently its a coiled/sprung polymer that controls the viscosity in motor
oil, and that has to survive pretty extreme temperatures.
 
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 21:22:01 +0100, "Ian Field"
<gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:

"George Herold" <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote in message
news:13d14e72-d6f6-4c8a-90b7-937a30049093@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:16:16 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 19:42:56 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5601ad59$0$5917$4c5ecfc7@frugalusenet.com...
So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with a
dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling
around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions
for a
more reliable replacement?


You can get MLCC capacitors as big as 180uF - but it won't fit in the
original space.

They're mostly advertised as SMD, but that certainly won't fit - a few
suppliers offer resin dipped leaded versions that you could form the
leads
to meet the pads.

Aluminium electrolytics of any kind are a no no! - there was much
chatter
about organic semiconductor electrolytics a decade or so ago, that were
claimed to be as good as tantalum, but it lately seems to have gone very
quiet on that front.

The polymer aluminums are really good. Low leakage, low ESR, don't dry
out.

Oh boy, I'm going to look uninformed, but polymer Al's are different from
"normal" Al's? (I appointed myself capacitor Czar (well maybe just an
Earl.) at our company, and now I'm feeling very ignorant.)
There look to be polymer Tant's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor

It crossed my mind that the polymer might be vulnerable to temperature - but
apparently its a coiled/sprung polymer that controls the viscosity in motor
oil, and that has to survive pretty extreme temperatures.
Click to expand...

The polymer caps are dry inside, unlike regular aluminum
electrolytics. They have very low ESRs which stay low below 0 degrees
C, when aluminums freeze and ESR goes to hell.

Unlike regular 'lytics, they have very low leakage current up to
roughly 1.5 or so of rated voltage, when they fail suddenly and
permanently.

We use them at switching regulator outputs and when we might have
current steps, like to power an FPGA.
 
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 16:09:17 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 6:11:02 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 21:22:01 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"George Herold" <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote in message
news:13d14e72-d6f6-4c8a-90b7-937a30049093@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:16:16 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 19:42:56 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5601ad59$0$5917$4c5ecfc7@frugalusenet.com...
So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with a
dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling
around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions
for a
more reliable replacement?


You can get MLCC capacitors as big as 180uF - but it won't fit in the
original space.

They're mostly advertised as SMD, but that certainly won't fit - a few
suppliers offer resin dipped leaded versions that you could form the
leads
to meet the pads.

Aluminium electrolytics of any kind are a no no! - there was much
chatter
about organic semiconductor electrolytics a decade or so ago, that were
claimed to be as good as tantalum, but it lately seems to have gone very
quiet on that front.

The polymer aluminums are really good. Low leakage, low ESR, don't dry
out.

Oh boy, I'm going to look uninformed, but polymer Al's are different from
"normal" Al's? (I appointed myself capacitor Czar (well maybe just an
Earl.) at our company, and now I'm feeling very ignorant.)
There look to be polymer Tant's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor

It crossed my mind that the polymer might be vulnerable to temperature - but
apparently its a coiled/sprung polymer that controls the viscosity in motor
oil, and that has to survive pretty extreme temperatures.

The polymer caps are dry inside, unlike regular aluminum
electrolytics. They have very low ESRs which stay low below 0 degrees
C, when aluminums freeze and ESR goes to hell.
Oh, the question then is how low will they go?
(maybe someone has stuck them into LN2)
Click to expand...

If you can dunk one, I'll send you one.

Unlike regular 'lytics, they have very low leakage current up to
roughly 1.5 or so of rated voltage, when they fail suddenly and
permanently.

We use them at switching regulator outputs and when we might have
current steps, like to power an FPGA.

Got it, Thanks.

(the leakage on regular 'lytics is not as bad as the spec sheet.
at least near room temp. but I think we've been there before...)

With pic's on wiki, I now see a colleague uses them
in an* led strobe circuit.
I assume they are more expensive.
Click to expand...

Maybe 2x the price of regular lytics. 180 uF, 6.3 volts, 47 cents.
 
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 8:35:27 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 16:09:17 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 6:11:02 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 21:22:01 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"George Herold" <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote in message
news:13d14e72-d6f6-4c8a-90b7-937a30049093@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:16:16 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 19:42:56 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5601ad59$0$5917$4c5ecfc7@frugalusenet.com...
So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with a
dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling
around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions
for a
more reliable replacement?


You can get MLCC capacitors as big as 180uF - but it won't fit in the
original space.

They're mostly advertised as SMD, but that certainly won't fit - a few
suppliers offer resin dipped leaded versions that you could form the
leads
to meet the pads.

Aluminium electrolytics of any kind are a no no! - there was much
chatter
about organic semiconductor electrolytics a decade or so ago, that were
claimed to be as good as tantalum, but it lately seems to have gone very
quiet on that front.

The polymer aluminums are really good. Low leakage, low ESR, don't dry
out.

Oh boy, I'm going to look uninformed, but polymer Al's are different from
"normal" Al's? (I appointed myself capacitor Czar (well maybe just an
Earl.) at our company, and now I'm feeling very ignorant.)
There look to be polymer Tant's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor

It crossed my mind that the polymer might be vulnerable to temperature - but
apparently its a coiled/sprung polymer that controls the viscosity in motor
oil, and that has to survive pretty extreme temperatures.

The polymer caps are dry inside, unlike regular aluminum
electrolytics. They have very low ESRs which stay low below 0 degrees
C, when aluminums freeze and ESR goes to hell.
Oh, the question then is how low will they go?
(maybe someone has stuck them into LN2)

If you can dunk one, I'll send you one.
Click to expand...

Hmm No LN2 at the moment. (I've been swamped with other stuff.)
I think these are poly Al's
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ks1d83iyi3dkinr/MT-poly-Al.JPG?dl=0
(the round style.)

In which case I can dunk 'em sometime in the future.

George H.
Unlike regular 'lytics, they have very low leakage current up to
roughly 1.5 or so of rated voltage, when they fail suddenly and
permanently.

We use them at switching regulator outputs and when we might have
current steps, like to power an FPGA.

Got it, Thanks.

(the leakage on regular 'lytics is not as bad as the spec sheet.
at least near room temp. but I think we've been there before...)

With pic's on wiki, I now see a colleague uses them
in an* led strobe circuit.
I assume they are more expensive.

Maybe 2x the price of regular lytics. 180 uF, 6.3 volts, 47 cents.
Click to expand...
 
Den torsdag den 1. oktober 2015 kl. 19.39.57 UTC+2 skrev bitrex:
I have a Sandisk 32G USB flash drive that someone has given me in the
hope that I might be able to salvage some data off it. Looks like it
was in a laptop and jammed against a wall, resulting in broken solder
joints. My PC wasn't detecting it when it was plugged in at all.

I cut the drive open and attempted to re-seat the pins and then reflow
the solder using a heat gun on a low setting moving rapidly over the
joints. It seemed to work but it's very difficult to tell if all the
pins are making good connections with the pads.

Windows now recognizes that a USB device of some type is plugged in, but
is giving me a "Device Not Recognized" error. Is it possible that this
is due to a poor electrical connection, or is it likely that the
controller electronics is somehow damaged as well? At this point I'm
thinking of removing the USB connector completely and using jumper wires
to ensure that all the pads are connected properly to the respective
pins and have continuity Suggestions?
Click to expand...

all that is needed for the computer see something is plugged in is the
pullup from V_usb to D+

so you got some connection, but it doesn't mean much more

-Lasse
 
Den torsdag den 1. oktober 2015 kl. 21.00.31 UTC+2 skrev bitrex:
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> Wrote in message:
On 10/1/2015 1:39 PM, bitrex wrote:
I have a Sandisk 32G USB flash drive that someone has given me in the
hope that I might be able to salvage some data off it. Looks like it
was in a laptop and jammed against a wall, resulting in broken solder
joints. My PC wasn't detecting it when it was plugged in at all.

I cut the drive open and attempted to re-seat the pins and then reflow
the solder using a heat gun on a low setting moving rapidly over the
joints. It seemed to work but it's very difficult to tell if all the
pins are making good connections with the pads.

Windows now recognizes that a USB device of some type is plugged in, but
is giving me a "Device Not Recognized" error. Is it possible that this
is due to a poor electrical connection, or is it likely that the
controller electronics is somehow damaged as well? At this point I'm
thinking of removing the USB connector completely and using jumper wires
to ensure that all the pads are connected properly to the respective
pins and have continuity Suggestions?

My guess is your connections are not all there. if anything else were
damaged I think you'd be able to see it. What are you going to connect
the jumper wires to? Do you have a spare connector? I think I would
solder the end of a cable to the board so you have a USB connector on
the end of the cable. I'd like to have that on flash drives anyway.
They stick out too much from the laptop and are prone to damaging the
machine when bumped. My previous laptop lost two of its four USB
connectors that way.

--

Rick


I've detached the USB header completely and the pads on the data
lines appear to be completely lifted. Do the data lines on flash
drives usually have resistor pull ups or resistors inline? There
are what looks like two 0402 resistors on the underside that I
think might be connected to the data lines that I might be able
to attach wires to.
Click to expand...

USB devices have a 1.5K pull up on D+ to signal that it is there

There is sometimes ~25R resistors in series with the data lines

but I could also be ESD protection

-Lasse
 
On 09/30/2015 07:09 PM, George Herold wrote:

*an "el, e, dee", letters
or a "lead" one word?
Click to expand...

Saying "ell ee dee" is way too much work. Almost as bad as "picofarad".

Besides, to my ear "ell ee dee" is sort of affected-sounding.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs


--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
On 9/30/2015 6:09 PM, George Herold wrote:
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 6:11:02 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 21:22:01 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"George Herold" <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote in message
news:13d14e72-d6f6-4c8a-90b7-937a30049093@googlegroups.com...
On Wednesday, September 30, 2015 at 3:16:16 PM UTC-4, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 19:42:56 +0100, "Ian Field"
gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:


"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:5601ad59$0$5917$4c5ecfc7@frugalusenet.com...
So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with a
dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling
around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any suggestions
for a
more reliable replacement?


You can get MLCC capacitors as big as 180uF - but it won't fit in the
original space.

They're mostly advertised as SMD, but that certainly won't fit - a few
suppliers offer resin dipped leaded versions that you could form the
leads
to meet the pads.

Aluminium electrolytics of any kind are a no no! - there was much
chatter
about organic semiconductor electrolytics a decade or so ago, that were
claimed to be as good as tantalum, but it lately seems to have gone very
quiet on that front.

The polymer aluminums are really good. Low leakage, low ESR, don't dry
out.

Oh boy, I'm going to look uninformed, but polymer Al's are different from
"normal" Al's? (I appointed myself capacitor Czar (well maybe just an
Earl.) at our company, and now I'm feeling very ignorant.)
There look to be polymer Tant's too.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor

It crossed my mind that the polymer might be vulnerable to temperature - but
apparently its a coiled/sprung polymer that controls the viscosity in motor
oil, and that has to survive pretty extreme temperatures.

The polymer caps are dry inside, unlike regular aluminum
electrolytics. They have very low ESRs which stay low below 0 degrees
C, when aluminums freeze and ESR goes to hell.
Oh, the question then is how low will they go?
(maybe someone has stuck them into LN2)


Unlike regular 'lytics, they have very low leakage current up to
roughly 1.5 or so of rated voltage, when they fail suddenly and
permanently.

We use them at switching regulator outputs and when we might have
current steps, like to power an FPGA.

Got it, Thanks.

(the leakage on regular 'lytics is not as bad as the spec sheet.
at least near room temp. but I think we've been there before...)

With pic's on wiki, I now see a colleague uses them
in an* led strobe circuit.
I assume they are more expensive.


George H.
*an "el, e, dee", letters
or a "lead" one word?
Click to expand...

I think it should actually be L.E.D and I know you know that. If the
periods are dropped, as is universal now, it should probably still be
pronounced in the same way. If I were in a conversation, my mind would
probably be involuntarily put on pause at the use of "lead" so that it
could gain understanding from the connotation. But, I would not have
that problem with the letters.

But, that just me.
 
On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 1:54:52 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

Another indicator that you ain't too bright.

Nice copycat job too.
Click to expand...

Wow, look who's talking oh bright one.
 
On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 6:35:52 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:
On Thu, 1 Oct 2015 14:26:03 -0700 (PDT), DecadentUnixUserNumeroUno
@gmail.com> Gave us:

On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 1:54:52 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:


Another indicator that you ain't too bright.

Nice copycat job too.

Wow, look who's talking oh bright one.

Oh, look! The pommy retard felt the urge to spoof me.
Click to expand...

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA
 
On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 6:50:07 PM UTC-4, Dimitrij Klingbeil wrote:
On 01.10.2015 14:19, George Herold wrote:

Hmm No LN2 at the moment. (I've been swamped with other stuff.) I
think these are poly Al's
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ks1d83iyi3dkinr/MT-poly-Al.JPG?dl=0 (the
round style.)

In which case I can dunk 'em sometime in the future.

George H.


Nope, looks like normal "wet" lytics. Polys normally don't have (and
don't need) that stamped structure in the top of the can that allows
them to safely rupture and vent gas under overpressure conditions.

Also, polys tend to have much thicker pins than similar "wet" lytics.

Regards
Dimitrij
Click to expand...

OK thanks, (I should have just looked them up.)
When we get some LN2 I'll add some to a DK order.

George H.
 
On 01.10.2015 14:19, George Herold wrote:
Hmm No LN2 at the moment. (I've been swamped with other stuff.) I
think these are poly Al's
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ks1d83iyi3dkinr/MT-poly-Al.JPG?dl=0 (the
round style.)

In which case I can dunk 'em sometime in the future.

George H.
Click to expand...

Nope, looks like normal "wet" lytics. Polys normally don't have (and
don't need) that stamped structure in the top of the can that allows
them to safely rupture and vent gas under overpressure conditions.

Also, polys tend to have much thicker pins than similar "wet" lytics.

Regards
Dimitrij
 
On Thu, 1 Oct 2015 14:26:03 -0700 (PDT), DecadentUnixUserNumeroUno
<decadentunixusernumerouno@gmail.com> Gave us:

On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 1:54:52 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:


Another indicator that you ain't too bright.

Nice copycat job too.

Wow, look who's talking oh bright one.
Click to expand...

Oh, look! The pommy retard felt the urge to spoof me.
 
In article <mukd6t$cub$1@dont-email.me>, nospam@no-address.com says...
On 01.10.2015 14:19, George Herold wrote:

Hmm No LN2 at the moment. (I've been swamped with other stuff.) I
think these are poly Al's
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ks1d83iyi3dkinr/MT-poly-Al.JPG?dl=0 (the
round style.)

In which case I can dunk 'em sometime in the future.

George H.


Nope, looks like normal "wet" lytics. Polys normally don't have (and
don't need) that stamped structure in the top of the can that allows
them to safely rupture and vent gas under overpressure conditions.

Also, polys tend to have much thicker pins than similar "wet" lytics.

Regards
Dimitrij
Click to expand...

I guess that would matter on which poly caps you are referring to?

Polyester, Polypropylene, Polystrene, Polycarbonate etc..

I don't seem to remember them having larger leads?

Silver mica is the way to go for small, stable and upper voltages.


Jamie
 
On Thu, 01 Oct 2015 19:35:41 -0400, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno
<DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> Gave us:

On Thu, 1 Oct 2015 14:26:03 -0700 (PDT), DecadentUnixUserNumeroUno
decadentunixusernumerouno@gmail.com> Gave us:

On Thursday, October 1, 2015 at 1:54:52 PM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:


Another indicator that you ain't too bright.

Nice copycat job too.

Wow, look who's talking oh bright one.

Oh, look! The pommy retard felt the urge to spoof me.
Click to expand...

There is a chance that it could be the John S stupid bastard as well
(instead).
 
On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 16:09:17 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
<gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:


George H.
*an "el, e, dee", letters
or a "lead" one word?
Click to expand...

Yes. As long as the context makes the meaning clear.
 
On Thu, 1 Oct 2015 19:45:26 -0400, M Philbrook
<jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net> wrote:

In article <mukd6t$cub$1@dont-email.me>, nospam@no-address.com says...

On 01.10.2015 14:19, George Herold wrote:

Hmm No LN2 at the moment. (I've been swamped with other stuff.) I
think these are poly Al's
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ks1d83iyi3dkinr/MT-poly-Al.JPG?dl=0 (the
round style.)

In which case I can dunk 'em sometime in the future.

George H.


Nope, looks like normal "wet" lytics. Polys normally don't have (and
don't need) that stamped structure in the top of the can that allows
them to safely rupture and vent gas under overpressure conditions.

Also, polys tend to have much thicker pins than similar "wet" lytics.

Regards
Dimitrij

I guess that would matter on which poly caps you are referring to?

Polyester, Polypropylene, Polystrene, Polycarbonate etc..
Click to expand...

The discussion is about aluminum polymer electrolytics.
I don't seem to remember them having larger leads?

Silver mica is the way to go for small, stable and upper voltages.

180uF? Must be as big as a house.
Click to expand...
 
On Thu, 01 Oct 2015 21:33:43 -0400, krw <krw@nowhere.com> wrote:

On Wed, 30 Sep 2015 16:09:17 -0700 (PDT), George Herold
gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:



George H.
*an "el, e, dee", letters
or a "lead" one word?

Yes. As long as the context makes the meaning clear.
Click to expand...

English is wonderful. Not only does it have something like 800K words,
each word can have many meanings, and different words sound exactly
alike.

"Lead" can be a noun or a verb or an adjective, present or past tense,
at least two pronunciations, and has lots of meanings.
 
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