Driver to drive?

On Sunday, 6 September 2015 07:05:18 UTC+1, DaveC wrote:

John :-#)#
An American offset printing equipment company. It's a paper/envelope feeder
for a small offset presses. Extinct company.

I can say that the bandwidth requirement of the circuit is very small--DC-10
KHz--and low current. Don't know about gain.

Thanks.

Look at what voltage your circuit runs on, and pick a tr a size up with that Vceo, high hfe, 0.3A or more and bob's your uncle.


NT

 

On Thursday, 17 September 2015 20:16:19 UTC+1, Ian Field wrote:

You can usually distinguish the B/E junction because it will zener somewhere
around 5 - 8V ish.

You need to keep the test current pretty low - you can get ultra-efficient
LEDs that give a useable indication at only 2mA.

.... in the early 1980s


NT

 

it looks like the output at pin 3 of the flip
flop made up of two sections of a 4011 (what's the deal with those
symbols?) is oscillating at about 4 Hz, and the nominally active-low
inputs of the flip flop are totally unresponsive to button presses or
manually pulling them low with a jumper

sounds like the "clock" circuit may be working correctly, but the start/stop flip flop is not.

Mark

 

On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 12:42:06 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

I need a 2.7uf 63V non-polarized capacitor for a speaker crossover.
It is a radial lead 10mm x 22mm cap.
Ebay has them from China. (slow boat)
I've checked Digi-Key, Mouser, Allied, and Newark.
I've also checked several speaker part sellers.
I have found an axial lead cap, for $0.50 plus $6.95 shipping.
But I'd prefer a radial lead.

Have any other sources?



Refoamed a set of Pioneer HPM 700 speakers, also put two OEM tweeters
in them. I thought I was done, listening test showed no output from one
tweeter, found bulging cap in crossover. Argh!

Mike

Electronic Goldmine are fun people...
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19932

....but that's probably polyester dielectric instead of pure African ebony,
hand-dried by the purest maidens. That might add a tinge of oak to the
fruitiness of the highs, blurring presence. Or whatever.

Cheers,
James Arthur

 

[amdx]

On 9/22/2015 12:15 PM, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote:

On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 12:42:06 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
I need a 2.7uf 63V non-polarized capacitor for a speaker crossover.
It is a radial lead 10mm x 22mm cap.
Ebay has them from China. (slow boat)
I've checked Digi-Key, Mouser, Allied, and Newark.
I've also checked several speaker part sellers.
I have found an axial lead cap, for $0.50 plus $6.95 shipping.
But I'd prefer a radial lead.

Have any other sources?



Refoamed a set of Pioneer HPM 700 speakers, also put two OEM tweeters
in them. I thought I was done, listening test showed no output from one
tweeter, found bulging cap in crossover. Argh!

Mike

Electronic Goldmine are fun people...
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19932

...but that's probably polyester dielectric instead of pure African ebony,
hand-dried by the purest maidens. That might add a tinge of oak to the
fruitiness of the highs, blurring presence. Or whatever.

Cheers,
James Arthur

Still would prefer a Radial lead capacitor.
Shipping cost suck, $6.05 for a $1.25 part.

I subbed in a couple of series polarized 6.8uf caps,
just to make sure everything is working before
I order a new cap.
All seems good, I can't hear anything out of the Super Tweeters,
but it is ok, my wife can.

Mikek

 

On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 1:51:02 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:

On 9/22/2015 12:15 PM, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 12:42:06 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
I need a 2.7uf 63V non-polarized capacitor for a speaker crossover.
It is a radial lead 10mm x 22mm cap.
Ebay has them from China. (slow boat)
I've checked Digi-Key, Mouser, Allied, and Newark.
I've also checked several speaker part sellers.
I have found an axial lead cap, for $0.50 plus $6.95 shipping.
But I'd prefer a radial lead.

Have any other sources?



Refoamed a set of Pioneer HPM 700 speakers, also put two OEM tweeters
in them. I thought I was done, listening test showed no output from one
tweeter, found bulging cap in crossover. Argh!

Mike

Electronic Goldmine are fun people...
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19932

...but that's probably polyester dielectric instead of pure African ebony,
hand-dried by the purest maidens. That might add a tinge of oak to the
fruitiness of the highs, blurring presence. Or whatever.

Cheers,
James Arthur


Still would prefer a Radial lead capacitor.
Shipping cost suck, $6.05 for a $1.25 part.

I subbed in a couple of series polarized 6.8uf caps,
just to make sure everything is working before
I order a new cap.
All seems good, I can't hear anything out of the Super Tweeters,
but it is ok, my wife can.

..- | --- | ----.
| | .-----. | <~~ heat shrink
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | '-----' |
| | | |
| '-----' |
\ /
'-----------'

Or, B) http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/rpc-225/2.2uf-250v-5-polypropylene-capacitor/1.html

You'd have to pad it for 2.7uF. It's polypropylene, which really is a
lot nicer.

Two of these is 3.0uF, only 10% over:
C) http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/cp-155/1.5-uf-305-vac-polypropylene-capacitor/1.html

Or one of C) and one of these makes 2.5uF...
D) http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/cp-105/1-uf-630-v-polypropylene-capacitor/1.html

Grins,
James Arthur

 

[amdx]

On 9/22/2015 7:23 PM, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote:

On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 1:51:02 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
On 9/22/2015 12:15 PM, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 12:42:06 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
I need a 2.7uf 63V non-polarized capacitor for a speaker crossover.
It is a radial lead 10mm x 22mm cap.
Ebay has them from China. (slow boat)
I've checked Digi-Key, Mouser, Allied, and Newark.
I've also checked several speaker part sellers.
I have found an axial lead cap, for $0.50 plus $6.95 shipping.
But I'd prefer a radial lead.

Have any other sources?



Refoamed a set of Pioneer HPM 700 speakers, also put two OEM tweeters
in them. I thought I was done, listening test showed no output from one
tweeter, found bulging cap in crossover. Argh!

Mike

Electronic Goldmine are fun people...
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19932

...but that's probably polyester dielectric instead of pure African ebony,
hand-dried by the purest maidens. That might add a tinge of oak to the
fruitiness of the highs, blurring presence. Or whatever.

Cheers,
James Arthur


Still would prefer a Radial lead capacitor.
Shipping cost suck, $6.05 for a $1.25 part.

I subbed in a couple of series polarized 6.8uf caps,
just to make sure everything is working before
I order a new cap.
All seems good, I can't hear anything out of the Super Tweeters,
but it is ok, my wife can.

.- | --- | ----.
| | .-----. | <~~ heat shrink
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | | | |
| | '-----' |
| | | |
| '-----' |
\ /
'-----------'

Or, B) http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/rpc-225/2.2uf-250v-5-polypropylene-capacitor/1.html

You'd have to pad it for 2.7uF. It's polypropylene, which really is a
lot nicer.

Two of these is 3.0uF, only 10% over:
C) http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/cp-155/1.5-uf-305-vac-polypropylene-capacitor/1.html

Or one of C) and one of these makes 2.5uF...
D) http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/cp-105/1-uf-630-v-polypropylene-capacitor/1.html

Grins,
James Arthur

I like the heatshrink idea.
Thanks, Mikek

 

[Martin Riddle]

opps...
axial lead

Cheers

 

[M Philbrook]

In article <mts4ac$vm1$1@dont-email.me>, nojunk@knology.net says...

On 9/22/2015 12:15 PM, dagmargoodboat@yahoo.com wrote:
On Tuesday, September 22, 2015 at 12:42:06 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
I need a 2.7uf 63V non-polarized capacitor for a speaker crossover.
It is a radial lead 10mm x 22mm cap.
Ebay has them from China. (slow boat)
I've checked Digi-Key, Mouser, Allied, and Newark.
I've also checked several speaker part sellers.
I have found an axial lead cap, for $0.50 plus $6.95 shipping.
But I'd prefer a radial lead.

Have any other sources?



Refoamed a set of Pioneer HPM 700 speakers, also put two OEM tweeters
in them. I thought I was done, listening test showed no output from one
tweeter, found bulging cap in crossover. Argh!

Mike

Electronic Goldmine are fun people...
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp?number=G19932

...but that's probably polyester dielectric instead of pure African ebony,
hand-dried by the purest maidens. That might add a tinge of oak to the
fruitiness of the highs, blurring presence. Or whatever.

Cheers,
James Arthur


Still would prefer a Radial lead capacitor.
Shipping cost suck, $6.05 for a $1.25 part.

I subbed in a couple of series polarized 6.8uf caps,
just to make sure everything is working before
I order a new cap.
All seems good, I can't hear anything out of the Super Tweeters,
but it is ok, my wife can.

Mikek

I've gotten creative using a labeler with heat shink tubing labels.

Print the data on the tube, insert the caps in the order you want them
and then heat shink it on. You get a cap that looks close to the
original.

I've do this to make NP axial caps from radial caps that had to lay
down low on the board when I could not get ready made NP axial caps

Jamie

 

[Phil Allison]

joe hey wrote:

That's why in those cases a series resistor might be recommended in order
to limit the current spikes.

** Used to be the case that one could destroy any bead tantalum cap buy charging it to its rated voltage, then shorting the leads together.

The resulting current spike of about 10amps created a permanent short.



.... Phil

 

[amdx]

On 9/22/2015 7:36 PM, Martin Riddle wrote:

opps...
axial lead

Cheers

Thanks everybody, I ordered the axial capacitor from Parts Express.
I bought two for $1.00 plus $6.95 for shipping. So $7.95 for the $0.50
capacitor I needed. And that's the way it is!

Mikek

 

[George Herold]

On Wednesday, September 23, 2015 at 12:42:01 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:

On 9/23/2015 12:26 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 09/23/2015 12:08 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 09/22/2015 06:18 PM, Syd Rumpo wrote:
On 22/09/2015 21:40, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2015 12:56:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Sep 2015 15:34:51 -0400, bitrex
bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote:

So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with
a dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears
to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any
suggestions for
a more reliable replacement?

I don't think there's a reliability issue here. C109 (located on the
Power / MIDI board schematic, is the initial output filter capacitor
in a 3.3V switching power supply. There are other 100 uf caps
surrounding it, but it seems to be the only tantalum cap, which
suggests that the designer needed some specific characteristic of the
cap to make things work. Methinks a change of capacitor type might
not be such a great idea.

What would make the cap explode? My guess(tm) is that someone
plugged
in a wrong voltage power supply, which blew up FET (F1) which then
applied overvoltage to the tantalum. It much have been quite a large
jolt as tantalums using produce a low resistance "short" which then
gets hot and starts smoking toxic fumes. I would look around for
other parts in the power supply section that may be been destroyed,
such as the other caps along the 3.3V rail.

Dry-slug tantalums across power rails are bad news. High dV/dT
literally ignites them; MnO2 is the oxidizer and tantalum is the fuel.

Derate them 3:1 on voltage, or use something else. Polymer aluminums
are good, and some come in a tantalum-like surface mount package.

+1

Cheers

Al polys can make voltage regulators oscillate. Tantalums have a nice
middle-of-the-road ESR that makes 7800s happy.

The ignition problem is quite real--see
http://electrooptical.net/www/sed/TantalumCapReforming_25272-what_a_cap_astrophe.pdf


Can somebody decode "postprocessing fixture" back into English? I have
idea what the author is talking about or what the "fix" really was.


He ramped up the supply slowly with a current limit, to give the tants a
chance to clear the damage.

Is it about clearing damage or just to show the added resistance
prevented the failure? I found the story a bit hard to follow.

--

Rick

I read it like this,
Solder heat caused damage.. looked like an over voltage.
To reform tant they slowly raised the voltage. (Maybe just once, but perhaps a few times.)
After that the tant's were fine and could take the full turn on voltage.

George H.

 

[Cydrome Leader]

George Herold <gherold@teachspin.com> wrote:

On Wednesday, September 23, 2015 at 12:42:01 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 9/23/2015 12:26 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 09/23/2015 12:08 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 09/22/2015 06:18 PM, Syd Rumpo wrote:
On 22/09/2015 21:40, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2015 12:56:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Sep 2015 15:34:51 -0400, bitrex
bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote:

So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with
a dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears
to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any
suggestions for
a more reliable replacement?

I don't think there's a reliability issue here. C109 (located on the
Power / MIDI board schematic, is the initial output filter capacitor
in a 3.3V switching power supply. There are other 100 uf caps
surrounding it, but it seems to be the only tantalum cap, which
suggests that the designer needed some specific characteristic of the
cap to make things work. Methinks a change of capacitor type might
not be such a great idea.

What would make the cap explode? My guess(tm) is that someone
plugged
in a wrong voltage power supply, which blew up FET (F1) which then
applied overvoltage to the tantalum. It much have been quite a large
jolt as tantalums using produce a low resistance "short" which then
gets hot and starts smoking toxic fumes. I would look around for
other parts in the power supply section that may be been destroyed,
such as the other caps along the 3.3V rail.

Dry-slug tantalums across power rails are bad news. High dV/dT
literally ignites them; MnO2 is the oxidizer and tantalum is the fuel.

Derate them 3:1 on voltage, or use something else. Polymer aluminums
are good, and some come in a tantalum-like surface mount package.

+1

Cheers

Al polys can make voltage regulators oscillate. Tantalums have a nice
middle-of-the-road ESR that makes 7800s happy.

The ignition problem is quite real--see
http://electrooptical.net/www/sed/TantalumCapReforming_25272-what_a_cap_astrophe.pdf


Can somebody decode "postprocessing fixture" back into English? I have
idea what the author is talking about or what the "fix" really was.


He ramped up the supply slowly with a current limit, to give the tants a
chance to clear the damage.

Is it about clearing damage or just to show the added resistance
prevented the failure? I found the story a bit hard to follow.

--

Rick

I read it like this,
Solder heat caused damage.. looked like an over voltage.
To reform tant they slowly raised the voltage. (Maybe just once, but perhaps a few times.)
After that the tant's were fine and could take the full turn on voltage.

That makes more sense.

Still never heard of reforming anything other than wet type caps.

Anybody heard of this tantalum reforming process? Any idea how long it
"lasts"?

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 09/23/2015 01:16 PM, George Herold wrote:

On Wednesday, September 23, 2015 at 12:42:01 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:
On 9/23/2015 12:26 PM, Phil Hobbs wrote:
On 09/23/2015 12:08 PM, Cydrome Leader wrote:
In sci.electronics.repair Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:
On 09/22/2015 06:18 PM, Syd Rumpo wrote:
On 22/09/2015 21:40, John Larkin wrote:
On Tue, 22 Sep 2015 12:56:56 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com
wrote:

On Tue, 22 Sep 2015 15:34:51 -0400, bitrex
bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote:

So I'm working on repairing a Korg MS2000B synthesizer for a friend
with
a dead power supply. Here's the service manual:

http://www.loscha.com/scans/Korg_MS2000_Service_Manual.pdf

The first thing I notice when looking inside is that the small SMT
100uF
10V tantalum capacitor C109 has completely vacated - it appears
to be
gone, blown right off the board. There are some little fragments
rattling around in the case.

I have little experience with tantalum capacitors. Any
suggestions for
a more reliable replacement?

I don't think there's a reliability issue here. C109 (located on the
Power / MIDI board schematic, is the initial output filter capacitor
in a 3.3V switching power supply. There are other 100 uf caps
surrounding it, but it seems to be the only tantalum cap, which
suggests that the designer needed some specific characteristic of the
cap to make things work. Methinks a change of capacitor type might
not be such a great idea.

What would make the cap explode? My guess(tm) is that someone
plugged
in a wrong voltage power supply, which blew up FET (F1) which then
applied overvoltage to the tantalum. It much have been quite a large
jolt as tantalums using produce a low resistance "short" which then
gets hot and starts smoking toxic fumes. I would look around for
other parts in the power supply section that may be been destroyed,
such as the other caps along the 3.3V rail.

Dry-slug tantalums across power rails are bad news. High dV/dT
literally ignites them; MnO2 is the oxidizer and tantalum is the fuel.

Derate them 3:1 on voltage, or use something else. Polymer aluminums
are good, and some come in a tantalum-like surface mount package.

+1

Cheers

Al polys can make voltage regulators oscillate. Tantalums have a nice
middle-of-the-road ESR that makes 7800s happy.

The ignition problem is quite real--see
http://electrooptical.net/www/sed/TantalumCapReforming_25272-what_a_cap_astrophe.pdf


Can somebody decode "postprocessing fixture" back into English? I have
idea what the author is talking about or what the "fix" really was.


He ramped up the supply slowly with a current limit, to give the tants a
chance to clear the damage.

Is it about clearing damage or just to show the added resistance
prevented the failure? I found the story a bit hard to follow.

--

Rick

I read it like this,
Solder heat caused damage.. looked like an over voltage.
To reform tant they slowly raised the voltage. (Maybe just once, but perhaps a few times.)
After that the tant's were fine and could take the full turn on voltage.

George H.

Me too.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Wed, 23 Sep 2015 21:24:34 +0000 (UTC), Cydrome Leader
<presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote:

Still never heard of reforming anything other than wet type caps.

Anybody heard of this tantalum reforming process? Any idea how long it
"lasts"?

"Characterization of Tantalum Polymer Capacitors"
<http://www.nepp.nasa.gov/docuploads/0EA22600-8AEC-4F47-9FE49BAABEAB569C/Tantalum%20Polymer%20Capacitors%20FY05%20Final%20Report.pdf>
It gives a history of the development of tantalum caps and quite a bit
on the various types of tantalum caps.

"A significant improvement patented by Millard was the "reform"
step in which the dielectric of the capacitor was repaired
after each dip-and-convert cycle of MnO2 deposition. This repair
was accomplished by application of voltage while the capacitor
element was immersed in a suitable electrolyte. This process
improvement dramatically reduced the leakage current of the
finished capacitors."

Patent # 2,936,514
<http://www.google.com/patents/US3846260>

As far as I can tell, the application of voltage to the capacitor both
during and after the manufacturing process is to encourage the
self-healing properties of MnO2 to fix small defects. See the "High
Reliability" section on Pg 6.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[George Herold]

On Thursday, September 24, 2015 at 10:15:46 AM UTC-4, piglet wrote:

On 24/09/2015 14:46, JW wrote:
On Wed, 23 Sep 2015 22:17:58 +0100 piglet <erichpwagner@hotmail.com> wrote
in Message id: <mtv4qh$o6i$1@dont-email.me>:

On 23/09/2015 21:56, John Larkin wrote:
On Wed, 23 Sep 2015 21:34:38 +0100, piglet <erichpwagner@hotmail.com
wrote:

On 23/09/2015 15:24, John Larkin wrote:
Most tantalum caps are solids, with the MnO2 electrolyte. Less common
are liquid types and polymers.


There is even solid aluminum, now only made by Vishay (I think) and cost
more than equivalent tantalum. The ones I use are resin dipped through
hole parts and look like a big resin dipped tantalum bead. Nice caps,
very low ESR and supposedly very reliable, claim "no-known wear-out
mechanism".

piglet

Do you mean polymer aluminums? Those are great, super low ESR. We use
United Chem-Com and Nichicon. 47 cents for 180 uF 6.3 volts, about 2x
tha price of a regular aluminum cap.



No, I don't think these are polymer, may even predate polymer
electrolyte. Uses Mn02 I think like solid Ta. See Vishay SAL 122 series.
Temp range -55 to +175 C.

piglet

Couldn't find anything on them. Do you mean SAL 128?
http://www.vishay.com/docs/28354/128salrpm.pdf
End of Life. Last Available Purchase Date is 30-December-2015

Must be too reliable.


Yes SAL128 are miniature, just a bit smaller than the 122 range. Shame
about the EOL - they are great parts and should have been much more
popular. The axial part (SAL123) is rated from -80 to +200 deg C.

Polymer can't match that temp range (yet).

piglet

Is it my imagination, or do capacitors go EOL faster (more often)
than other components? Perhaps the material science for caps
still has plenty of room for improvement?

George H.

 

On Monday, September 28, 2015 at 12:23:12 AM UTC-4, Mike Tomlinson wrote:

En el artículo <mtt0ql$dj1$1@news.eternal-september.org>, ehsjr
ehsjr@mverizon.net> escribió:

Maybe very careful surgery of the old cap, stuff the
new one inside the hollowed out old one to get the
old "look"?

Posted without comment

http://www.anonpic.com/images/fakecapacitor1.jpg

Hilarious!

Cheers,
James Arthur

 

There's no continuity between the top of C25 and where C50 would have
been. Guess L13 is smoked as well..

Remove the 3.3V fuse FU1 and use a bench supply with current limiting to supply 3.3V and see if the system works.

If F1 failed short, it may have applied 9V to the 3.3V rail and that would be bad news.

Mark

 

On Tuesday, September 29, 2015 at 2:18:35 PM UTC-4, John Devereux wrote:

Ralph Barone <address_is@invalid.invalid> writes:

Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote:
En el artículo <mtt0ql$dj1$1@news.eternal-september.org>, ehsjr
ehsjr@mverizon.net> escribió:

Maybe very careful surgery of the old cap, stuff the
new one inside the hollowed out old one to get the
old "look"?

Posted without comment

http://www.anonpic.com/images/fakecapacitor1.jpg


The Rubycon 35V rated caps must be pretty good

They *are* pretty good aren't they? That surprised me a bit, putting a
decent brand name inside a fake.

Hmm... perhaps the Rubycons are fake too... Is there something else
inside them too?

That's the -RD suffix.(*)

(*)Russian Doll

Cheers,
James Arthur

 

[Lasse Langwadt Christense]

Den onsdag den 30. september 2015 kl. 02.42.54 UTC+2 skrev Phil Hobbs:

On 09/29/2015 02:18 PM, John Devereux wrote:
Ralph Barone <address_is@invalid.invalid> writes:

Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk> wrote:
En el artículo <mtt0ql$dj1$1@news.eternal-september.org>, ehsjr
ehsjr@mverizon.net> escribió:

Maybe very careful surgery of the old cap, stuff the
new one inside the hollowed out old one to get the
old "look"?

Posted without comment

http://www.anonpic.com/images/fakecapacitor1.jpg


The Rubycon 35V rated caps must be pretty good

They *are* pretty good aren't they? That surprised me a bit, putting a
decent brand name inside a fake.

Hmm... perhaps the Rubycons are fake too... Is there something else
inside them too?


The Rubycon looks like it was salvaged from a discarded board.

components for all that cheap electronics has to come from somewhere

http://twimgs.com/eetimes/news/11/08/1606photo_pg25.jpg

-Lasse