Driver to drive?

On 1/4/2014 3:53 PM, morvan000@gmail.com wrote:
Em segunda-feira, 13 de novembro de 2000 03h00min00s UTC-5, Aleksandar Veselinovic escreveu:
I'm trying to make my first PCB, but I have problem finding proper
footprints. Is there any standardized footprint for:

1. 78L05 --- voltage stabilizer

2. potentiometer---
| P
+-+
| |
| |<----
| | 5k
+-+
|
I was told to use footprint that looks like:
+--+
| o|
| o|
|o |
+--+
but don't know dimensions...
?

I would appreciate your help...

Greetings,
Aleksa

--
Aleksandar Veselinovic <alexa/cliffhanger.com
Public key: http://solair.eunet.yu/~aleksav/alexa.asc
Fingerprint = FF7E B09A 50B7 6E5F 6E65 B063 AECA C850 50ED 11BB
NOTE: remove .X. before replying

Hi, Aleksa[ander].
LM78L05 is a TO-92 (as it if was a common signal transistor. See datails, please, at: http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/ThePowerSupply/imagesP79/P79Fig39.gif). I do not know EDA you are using, but, in gEDA, I use POT__CTS_296X-Series (NewLib FootPrint, not M4) as a mid-size Pot.
Anything, you can ask me and I will try to answer; Best regards,
Morvan

This is just a hunch, but I think that after more than 13 years, Aleksa
most likely has found an answer.
 
On 05/01/14 08:11, RosemontCrest wrote:
On 1/4/2014 3:53 PM, morvan000@gmail.com wrote:
Em segunda-feira, 13 de novembro de 2000 03h00min00s UTC-5, Aleksandar
Veselinovic escreveu:
I'm trying to make my first PCB, but I have problem finding proper
footprints. Is there any standardized footprint for:

1. 78L05 --- voltage stabilizer

2. potentiometer---
| P
+-+
| |
| |<----
| | 5k
+-+
|
I was told to use footprint that looks like:
+--+
| o|
| o|
|o |
+--+
but don't know dimensions...
?

I would appreciate your help...

Greetings,
Aleksa

--
Aleksandar Veselinovic <alexa/cliffhanger.com
Public key: http://solair.eunet.yu/~aleksav/alexa.asc
Fingerprint = FF7E B09A 50B7 6E5F 6E65 B063 AECA C850 50ED 11BB
NOTE: remove .X. before replying

Hi, Aleksa[ander].
LM78L05 is a TO-92 (as it if was a common signal transistor. See
datails, please, at:
http://www.talkingelectronics.com/projects/ThePowerSupply/imagesP79/P79Fig39.gif).
I do not know EDA you are using, but, in gEDA, I use
POT__CTS_296X-Series (NewLib FootPrint, not M4) as a mid-size Pot.
Anything, you can ask me and I will try to answer; Best regards,
Morvan

This is just a hunch, but I think that after more than 13 years, Aleksa
most likely has found an answer.

I'm blaming all this new "Doctor WHO' activity.
 
No News wrote:
On 27/12/2013 17:14, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 26 Dec 2013 22:49:23 +0000, No News <news@nulstep.plus.com
wrote:

On 26/12/2013 20:06, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Maybe dioctyl phthalate plasticizer. It's also used as vacuum pump oil,
since it has such a low vapour pressure, which means that it hangs
around forever at room temperature.

Any good for lubricating mechanical clocks?

Most clock and watch oils are based on mineral oil. The problem is
that there's no such thing as a univeral clock oil that will work well
with all parts of the clock or watch. This describes it in detail:
http://www.bhi.co.uk/Documents/certificate/Tech/PractLub.pdf
https://www.ishor.com/WatchOilGrease.php
My father used to repair watches and film cameras (mostly Leica) as a
hobby of sorts. I learned quickly that using the proper lube is
critical, especially after taking the camera on a skiing trip, and
having the lube turn to tar. Look for low evaporation, constant
viscosity with temperature, and non-acidic.
* Try "apeshit".

Thanks for this, Jeff. Sorry I'm so slow to respond.
It tells me a bit more than I wanted to know! :)

I've sat through a few feeble videos from YouTube on the topic, so I'll
summarise: if anyone has a mechanical clock which they want to pass on
to future generations, it's probably a good idea to put a dot of some
kind of clock oil on the bearings every few years.
 
On 27/12/2013 17:14, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Thu, 26 Dec 2013 22:49:23 +0000, No News <news@nulstep.plus.com
wrote:

On 26/12/2013 20:06, Phil Hobbs wrote:

Maybe dioctyl phthalate plasticizer. It's also used as vacuum pump oil,
since it has such a low vapour pressure, which means that it hangs
around forever at room temperature.

Any good for lubricating mechanical clocks?

Most clock and watch oils are based on mineral oil. The problem is
that there's no such thing as a univeral clock oil that will work well
with all parts of the clock or watch. This describes it in detail:
http://www.bhi.co.uk/Documents/certificate/Tech/PractLub.pdf
https://www.ishor.com/WatchOilGrease.php
My father used to repair watches and film cameras (mostly Leica) as a
hobby of sorts. I learned quickly that using the proper lube is
critical, especially after taking the camera on a skiing trip, and
having the lube turn to tar. Look for low evaporation, constant
viscosity with temperature, and non-acidic.

Thanks for this, Jeff. Sorry I'm so slow to respond.
It tells me a bit more than I wanted to know! :)

I've sat through a few feeble videos from YouTube on the topic, so
I'll summarise: if anyone has a mechanical clock which they want to pass
on to future generations, it's probably a good idea to put a dot of some
kind of clock oil on the bearings every few years.
 
On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 21:34:07 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net Gave us:

Followups set to sci.electronics.design.

In sci.electronics.design Mr. B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
Alternatives are, of course, Ni-Cad (charge memory effect

Much less of a problem in the real world than the vendors of all other
chemistries would have you believe. There will now be 500 follow-up
posts arguing this point to death.

Battery tech is getting better all the time.
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.

Matt Roberds
Look at how those "tree cams" work. They are solar maintained, and a
form of data logger as well. Would seem not too difficult to actually
use on that has been hacked (literally).
 
Hi Jim,

[apologies for delay in replying... end of year is even more hectic
than normal :< ]

On 12/30/2013 4:31 PM, WangoTango wrote:

[attrs elided]

What I want is to get to valid gerbers and, from there,
rebuild the connectivity map (netlist) and, eventually,
schematic.

Thanks, but I'm looking more for a toolset than a "one-off".

I use FAB3000 from Numerical Innovations for my Gerber editor/verifier
and it has a lot of options that are geared towards reverse engineering
and netlist extraction.

Yes. It seems a pretty common feature of photoplot editors et al.

I haven't played around with all those goodies,
but I do know it will import scans/JPGs and so on.

OK. Trick will be if they can use these for *electrical* connectivity
vs. just silk screen legends, etc. And, if they allow them to be
"electrical conductors", if they do anything more than letting your
"add/remove copper" free-hand.

I think they do a
full featured 30 day trial and the newer versions have a lot more
functionality than the old version I'm running. They also have
EXCELLENT phone support and I'm sure if you gave them a call and went
over what you were trying to do they would let you know if the software
was up to the task.

Thanks! I've bookmarked it and will pursue it once I get some "free
time" (another oxymoron :< )

--don
 
On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 21:34:07 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:

Followups set to sci.electronics.design.

In sci.electronics.design Mr. B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
Alternatives are, of course, Ni-Cad (charge memory effect

Much less of a problem in the real world than the vendors of all other
chemistries would have you believe. There will now be 500 follow-up
posts arguing this point to death.

Tell that to the three dead expensive cordless drills
I have in the toolshed ... all NiCad powered. They
died WAY before I'd gotten good mileage out of
them and the battery packs are so expensive it's
better to just buy a whole new drill/battery set.

I'll NEVER use NiCads again !

NiMH (<500 recharge cycles, sometimes much less)

The NiMH AAs I've used seem to give me more than that. YMMV.

You've counted ? Betcha it's really under 100 cycles.
I have a bunch of semi-dead ones that got that way
in less than 100 cycles ... lost half their capacity or
more, and I had decent chargers too.

NiMH batteries are also a pain to charge since you can't
really use voltage as an indicator of reaching a full charge
but instead have to measure the temperature ... they start
to get hot once fully charged.

and lead-acid 6v or 12v.

You can also get PbA in 2 V increments - Gates/Hakwer/Genesis/Enersys
"Cyclon" cells. Sometimes being able to get a 4 V or 10 V battery
makes the rest of the power supply design easier.

True, I've seen odd-voltage cells/batteries ... but with "odd"
comes *expensive*. As usual, the rules of mass-manufacturing
and mass-consumption are at work here ; "popular" batteries
cost a lot less. Usually those are 12v gels and wets.

Also, for really low-drain stuff like this, don't discount a plain old
alkaline battery. Energizer says their alkaline D cell will give you
about 20 Ah, when discharged at 25 mA from new to 0.8 V. That's a
little over a month of continuous runtime at 25 mA. About $1 each when
you buy several at once. Okay, maybe your device is at the top of a
radio tower, or down in a well, or stuck on a bobcat, or in some other
situation that makes it impractical to change the batteries.
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/e95.pdf

That's my dilemma ... the devices are gonna be WAY off-grid,
some with cellular data links due to accessibility issues. I'm
looking for "affordable" solar/battery setups that'll keep working
for a minimum of two, preferably five, years. "Affordable" does
not have to mean "dirt cheap", but it can't be near what the
commercial datalogger people charge for their setups. For
$50-$75 I can combine an adequate Pb, or maybe Li-Ion,
battery and a one or two watt panel plus electronics to
charge 'em and efficiently siphon off tightly regulated voltage.

I'd *rather* have an "affordable" off-the-shelf solution - mostly
because of the way bosses think - but I just can't find one
anywhere. This seems odd, given the increase in the use
of remote sensing.


HOWEVER ... whip out yer Google and try to find something like the
"Li-Po Rider", but made to work with lead-acid batteries that doesn't
cost a couple of proverbial body parts. Look for something in a nice
factory box that you can show off to the boss as "See ! Off the
shelf !" and, well, I don't think it can be had for even several body
parts.

Powerstream sells a couple that might do what you want. They have this
board http://www.powerstream.com/solar-charge-alternate.htm that they
say they will program how you want; they have off-the-shelf versions
for PbA http://www.powerstream.com/pb-acid-charge-board.htm and NiMH/
NiCD http://www.powerstream.com/NiMH-NiCad-solar-charge-controller.htm
for $80 qty 1. They also have a smaller one, but it's designed for
48 V telecom stuff http://www.powerstream.com/48-pv-control.htm , for
$38 qty 1. I don't know if these chargers suck or not; I just know that
they exist.

I looked ... and they ain't bad. Still a "board" of course, no nice
artistic plastic box with a logo and plugs.

Their output-voltage range offering is quite broad (but only some
testing would show how stable it is). Some of the lithium/solar
chargers I looked at claimed "5-volt" output but actually varied
quite widely when the charging voltage changed. I guess they
meant a "nominal 5-volts" or "average 5-volts" :)

Seeed's LiPo Rider Pro is less than half the price ... though it
only charges at about 800ma max instead of the claimed 1800ma
for the above device. For MY purposes, even 500ma is more
than enough. Those using PI's or other boards that suck more
juice might lean towards Powerstreams product. We using
small Ard/ARM/Propeller/PIC-based boards can get by
for less.

The homebrew combo I mentioned - the TI battery manager
plus the little DC/DC converter - works beautifully, is cheap
and really easy to wire up. It kind of boils down to whether
I trust lithiums or Pb to last longer in the field given my
power production/consumption profile. Guess I'll have to
make a couple of each and actually put 'em out there in
the untempered environment.
 
On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 14:39:26 -0800, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno
<DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> wrote:

On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 21:34:07 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net Gave us:

Followups set to sci.electronics.design.

In sci.electronics.design Mr. B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
Alternatives are, of course, Ni-Cad (charge memory effect

Much less of a problem in the real world than the vendors of all other
chemistries would have you believe. There will now be 500 follow-up
posts arguing this point to death.

Battery tech is getting better all the time.

So's the science of horseshoe-making ....

Face it ... ALL the current battery technologies
are still pretty sucky, each for various reasons.
Better-lousy still doesn't equal "good". We need
a whole new tech.

Hey ... didn't Walter Cronkite promise us atomic
power-packs for everything back in the 60s ?
So, where ARE they ? I want my flying car too !
 
Mr. B1ack wrote:

On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 21:34:07 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:

Followups set to sci.electronics.design.

In sci.electronics.design Mr. B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
Alternatives are, of course, Ni-Cad (charge memory effect

Much less of a problem in the real world than the vendors of all other
chemistries would have you believe. There will now be 500 follow-up
posts arguing this point to death.

Tell that to the three dead expensive cordless drills
I have in the toolshed ... all NiCad powered. They
died WAY before I'd gotten good mileage out of
them and the battery packs are so expensive it's
better to just buy a whole new drill/battery set.

I'll NEVER use NiCads again !

NiMH (<500 recharge cycles, sometimes much less)

The NiMH AAs I've used seem to give me more than that. YMMV.

You've counted ? Betcha it's really under 100 cycles.
I have a bunch of semi-dead ones that got that way
in less than 100 cycles ... lost half their capacity or
more, and I had decent chargers too.

NiMH batteries are also a pain to charge since you can't
really use voltage as an indicator of reaching a full charge
but instead have to measure the temperature ... they start
to get hot once fully charged.

and lead-acid 6v or 12v.

You can also get PbA in 2 V increments - Gates/Hakwer/Genesis/Enersys
"Cyclon" cells. Sometimes being able to get a 4 V or 10 V battery
makes the rest of the power supply design easier.

True, I've seen odd-voltage cells/batteries ... but with "odd"
comes *expensive*. As usual, the rules of mass-manufacturing
and mass-consumption are at work here ; "popular" batteries
cost a lot less. Usually those are 12v gels and wets.

Also, for really low-drain stuff like this, don't discount a plain old
alkaline battery. Energizer says their alkaline D cell will give you
about 20 Ah, when discharged at 25 mA from new to 0.8 V. That's a
little over a month of continuous runtime at 25 mA. About $1 each when
you buy several at once. Okay, maybe your device is at the top of a
radio tower, or down in a well, or stuck on a bobcat, or in some other
situation that makes it impractical to change the batteries.
http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/e95.pdf


That's my dilemma ... the devices are gonna be WAY off-grid,
some with cellular data links due to accessibility issues. I'm
looking for "affordable" solar/battery setups that'll keep working
for a minimum of two, preferably five, years. "Affordable" does
not have to mean "dirt cheap", but it can't be near what the
commercial datalogger people charge for their setups. For
$50-$75 I can combine an adequate Pb, or maybe Li-Ion,
battery and a one or two watt panel plus electronics to
charge 'em and efficiently siphon off tightly regulated voltage.

I'd *rather* have an "affordable" off-the-shelf solution - mostly
because of the way bosses think - but I just can't find one
anywhere. This seems odd, given the increase in the use
of remote sensing.


HOWEVER ... whip out yer Google and try to find something like the
"Li-Po Rider", but made to work with lead-acid batteries that doesn't
cost a couple of proverbial body parts. Look for something in a nice
factory box that you can show off to the boss as "See ! Off the
shelf !" and, well, I don't think it can be had for even several body
parts.

Powerstream sells a couple that might do what you want. They have this
board http://www.powerstream.com/solar-charge-alternate.htm that they
say they will program how you want; they have off-the-shelf versions
for PbA http://www.powerstream.com/pb-acid-charge-board.htm and NiMH/
NiCD http://www.powerstream.com/NiMH-NiCad-solar-charge-controller.htm
for $80 qty 1. They also have a smaller one, but it's designed for
48 V telecom stuff http://www.powerstream.com/48-pv-control.htm , for
$38 qty 1. I don't know if these chargers suck or not; I just know that
they exist.


I looked ... and they ain't bad. Still a "board" of course, no nice
artistic plastic box with a logo and plugs.

Their output-voltage range offering is quite broad (but only some
testing would show how stable it is). Some of the lithium/solar
chargers I looked at claimed "5-volt" output but actually varied
quite widely when the charging voltage changed. I guess they
meant a "nominal 5-volts" or "average 5-volts" :)

Seeed's LiPo Rider Pro is less than half the price ... though it
only charges at about 800ma max instead of the claimed 1800ma
for the above device. For MY purposes, even 500ma is more
than enough. Those using PI's or other boards that suck more
juice might lean towards Powerstreams product. We using
small Ard/ARM/Propeller/PIC-based boards can get by
for less.

The homebrew combo I mentioned - the TI battery manager
plus the little DC/DC converter - works beautifully, is cheap
and really easy to wire up. It kind of boils down to whether
I trust lithiums or Pb to last longer in the field given my
power production/consumption profile. Guess I'll have to
make a couple of each and actually put 'em out there in
the untempered environment.

Have you looked into what is available in the Marine Market. Plenty of boats
these days have solar chargers for their instrumentation and lighting
batteries. Might cost a bit more than doing your own bespoke unit but would
meet the "off the shelf" requirement.

Many of the road-side signs in the UK have solar panels on them, presumably
with battery also, that flash up warnings as you approach. So, that would be
another area to delve into to see what they use.

--
********************************************************************
Paul E. Bennett IEng MIET.....<email://Paul_E.Bennett@topmail.co.uk>
Forth based HIDECS Consultancy.............<http://www.hidecs.co.uk>
Mob: +44 (0)7811-639972
Tel: +44 (0)1235-510979
Going Forth Safely ..... EBA. www.electric-boat-association.org.uk..
********************************************************************
 
On Wed, 08 Jan 2014 09:09:44 +0000, Paul E Bennett
<Paul_E.Bennett@topmail.co.uk> wrote:


Have you looked into what is available in the Marine Market. Plenty of boats
these days have solar chargers for their instrumentation and lighting
batteries. Might cost a bit more than doing your own bespoke unit but would
meet the "off the shelf" requirement.

Many of the road-side signs in the UK have solar panels on them, presumably
with battery also, that flash up warnings as you approach. So, that would be
another area to delve into to see what they use.

Excellent suggestions ... I'll add "marine" and maybe "DOT"
to my searches. I suspect "marine" will be pretty expensive
though ... people with boats are presumed to be rather
*rich* people. On the positive side, any units would be
extremely weather-resistant. On the downside, I doubt
they'd be well regulated ... mostly aimed at producing
"12 volts" for radios, GPSs and lights.

The DOT type stuff though ... large market but not a
*fancy* market ... some potential there.
 
On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 22:40:02 -0500, Mr B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 21:34:07 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:

Followups set to sci.electronics.design.

In sci.electronics.design Mr. B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
Alternatives are, of course, Ni-Cad (charge memory effect

Much less of a problem in the real world than the vendors of all other
chemistries would have you believe. There will now be 500 follow-up
posts arguing this point to death.

Tell that to the three dead expensive cordless drills
I have in the toolshed ... all NiCad powered. They
died WAY before I'd gotten good mileage out of
them and the battery packs are so expensive it's
better to just buy a whole new drill/battery set.

I'll NEVER use NiCads again !

I've had good and bad luck with NiCDs, but it's often hard to tell
whether a short-lived battery pack is a result of the battery
technology or the charger. When you buy a package, like a drill with
a charger, it can be difficult to determine which is the case.

Case in point: The $20-on-sale HF drill set I bought a few years back
had a removable 18V presumed-NiCD power pack and a charger. As far as
I could tell, the "charger" was a simple wall-wart; this feeling was
reinforced by the note in the instructions telling me to remove the
pack from the charger when it got warm and never to leave it charging
overnight.

As you might guess, the battery pack lasted less than a year with
moderate-to-infrequent use and several occasions when I plugged the
pack into the charger and left it there overnight (several overnights,
on at least one occasion).

What I've read about chargers, and NiCD and NiMH chargers in
particular, leads me to believe that _with_ a well-designed charger
those hundreds of recharges might be achieved, but without one, the
NiXX cell's life is, as Hobbes put it, "nasty, brutish, and short."

The problem, of course, is that the chargers generally don't come
labelled as E, M, or C (Excellent, Mediocre, or Cr***y). Sigh.


Frank McKenney
--
I'm not here to tell you whether there are things you should believe
with _absolute_ and _unequivocal_ certainty or not. But perhaps we
should be more honest about declaiming these. Absolutely nothing is
gained when one person who holds that there is a 0 percent
probability of something argues against another person who holds
that the probability is 100 percent. Many wars -- like the
sectarian wars in Europe in the early days of the printing press --
probably result from something like this premise.

-- Nate Silver / The Signal and the Noise
--
Frank McKenney, McKenney Associates
Richmond, Virginia / (804) 320-4887
Munged E-mail: frank uscore mckenney aatt mindspring ddoott com
 
On Wed, 08 Jan 2014 09:41:37 -0600, Frnak McKenney
<frnak@far.from.the.madding.crowd.com> wrote:

On Tue, 07 Jan 2014 22:40:02 -0500, Mr B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
On Tue, 7 Jan 2014 21:34:07 +0000 (UTC), mroberds@att.net wrote:

Followups set to sci.electronics.design.

In sci.electronics.design Mr. B1ack <nowhere@nada.net> wrote:
Alternatives are, of course, Ni-Cad (charge memory effect

Much less of a problem in the real world than the vendors of all other
chemistries would have you believe. There will now be 500 follow-up
posts arguing this point to death.

Tell that to the three dead expensive cordless drills
I have in the toolshed ... all NiCad powered. They
died WAY before I'd gotten good mileage out of
them and the battery packs are so expensive it's
better to just buy a whole new drill/battery set.

I'll NEVER use NiCads again !

I've had good and bad luck with NiCDs, but it's often hard to tell
whether a short-lived battery pack is a result of the battery
technology or the charger. When you buy a package, like a drill with
a charger, it can be difficult to determine which is the case.

Case in point: The $20-on-sale HF drill set I bought a few years back
had a removable 18V presumed-NiCD power pack and a charger. As far as
I could tell, the "charger" was a simple wall-wart; this feeling was
reinforced by the note in the instructions telling me to remove the
pack from the charger when it got warm and never to leave it charging
overnight.

As you might guess, the battery pack lasted less than a year with
moderate-to-infrequent use and several occasions when I plugged the
pack into the charger and left it there overnight (several overnights,
on at least one occasion).

What I've read about chargers, and NiCD and NiMH chargers in
particular, leads me to believe that _with_ a well-designed charger
those hundreds of recharges might be achieved, but without one, the
NiXX cell's life is, as Hobbes put it, "nasty, brutish, and short."

I'm sure that's a big part of the problem. Google-up a
major battery-makers specs for achieving a full charge
without roasting the cells - they're VERY detailed, all
sorts of voltage/current/time/temperature charts. In
short it's HARD to make a good charger for NiCads
or NiMH, so nobody but NASA bothers.

Lead-Acids are fairly tough and tolerant. Much easier
to make a good - or "OK" - charger. You'd THINK they
would put one in those UPS's ... but they don't, and
usually manage to roast the batteries in a couple
of years.

There's an obscure kind of battery called NiFe,
nickel-iron, that I'd like to experiment with. They
don't pack as many amp-hours/pound as NiCads
or even Pb ... but they have a rep for being tough
as nails and VERY long-lasting. I think Edison
invented 'em ... but now the only source is China.
Solar Home freaks covet the things.

The problem, of course, is that the chargers generally don't come
labelled as E, M, or C (Excellent, Mediocre, or Cr***y). Sigh.

Nope ... they don't. There's no "National Battery-Chargers
Institute" to test 'em all. At best you get word-o-mouth.
The manufacturers ... well ... they want you to buy new
cells - often.

NiMH cells are particularly frustrating because, I think
I mentioned it somewhere, you can't even use voltage
or even a change in the voltage curve to detect when
the things are at full capacity. THE telltale sign is that
the cells start to get warm, then hot.

A spec sheet I found suggested that you ignore voltage
or current monitoring and instead find a way to slap a
thermistor up against each cell and wait for x-percent
temperature increase over y-minutes. This means
thermistors on spring-loaded bars (good luck determining
whether you made good contact or not) and a
microprocessor to do the math. In theory you could do
it analog with some sort of "leaky" integrator that'd only
respond to a "fast" rise, but that sounds like trouble.
 
<uchethegenius1@gmail.com>

How do you derive the efficiency of a transformer from the first principle
of electric circuit.

** Efficiency = power out / power in ( times 100 for percent ).

Now YOU get to explain WFT you really want to know.




..... Phil
 
On a sunny day (Wed, 8 Jan 2014 23:14:49 -0800 (PST)) it happened
uchethegenius1@gmail.com wrote in
<4d6c838c-bdac-46dd-b280-ffdc61a1191b@googlegroups.com>:

>How do you derive the efficiency of a transformer from the first principle of electric circuit.

The heat it generates, subtract that from the input :)
that gives oy the ouptut.

It is a cheap method, use your finger.
 
Don Y <this@isnotme.com> wrote:
Hi Lasse,

On 1/8/2014 6:56 PM, Lasse Langwadt Christensen wrote:
Den onsdag den 8. januar 2014 21.30.54 UTC+1 skrev Don Y:
On 1/8/2014 12:51 AM, dp wrote:

Anyway, Don's issue is with the "smart" part of the adaptor, which
has little to do with voltages.



I'm concerned about the entire "subsystem" -- as the power supplies
are obviously moving beyond "dumb voltage sources" to more of an
"integrated system". When you start integrating things, you tend
to use them (and design them) in ways that leverage other aspects
of the system to improve their performance, decrease their cost
or provide added functionality.

It seems like there is little value to encoding *just* an "ID"
in a power supply. AFAICT, you can't make your initial purchase
(of the laptop) without getting a power supply in the deal. So,
the ID only protects sales of *replacement* power supplies.

[It also could give some liability protection if third party
power supplies are resulting in battery fires, etc. "Due diligence"]

Is there a big problem with folks *losing* their power supplies?
Or, are there plans to artificially grow the power supply market
with a move to even crappier designs/reliability??

It looks like the safer approach, for me, is to find a deal on
the "Right" power supplies (buying them by the dozen can help).
Or, convince a donor to foot the bill for them...

(though it would be an interesting question to have answered!)

most laptop chargers have a similar barrel connector, only the voltage
and power varies all the smarts are in the laptop

That's not the case with these. *Three* conductors. The third of which
carries "data" from (to?) the charger. At the very least, the laptop
can say, "This is not an approved (i.e., sold by me) power adaptor.
I refuse to ___________"

As seen in the URL I posted (elsewhere) for Dimiter, at least one
such adapter has a ROM inside that the laptop queries. Presumably,
if the ROM is absent or contains "funky" data, the laptop could opt
not to perform (or, perform incorrectly).

It's unclear if other power supplies (including the ones in
question) do anything *active* with the comm link (e.g., transfer
information about the temperature of the power supply, load current,
etc.). Or, if the laptop *commands* the power supply ("enable
charging mode") during operation.

and you can get universal car adaptors that just a buck/boost to set the
right voltage and a set of connectors

Different beast.

There's an effort to standardize laptop chargers, similar I guess to
how EU mandated that cell phones must be able to charge from USB

The fact that vendors (at least IBM, Dell and HP, from my experience)
are adding this "feature" to their power adaptors suggests they
want to hold onto the power adapter business (?). Note you don't
see much effort to standardize ink jet cartridges :> Nor do
I imagine any printer vendors will be quick to embrace such an idea!

About the only good reason I can think of to have the power supply "talk"
to the laptop is to allow different battery charge rates for different
sized chargers, therefore allowing the manufacturer to sell either a big
"home" charger or a small "road" charger and have the laptop charge as fast
as possible with either one.
 
Hi Ralph,

On 1/9/2014 6:34 AM, Ralph Barone wrote:
Don Y<this@isnotme.com> wrote:

That's not the case with these. *Three* conductors. The third of which
carries "data" from (to?) the charger. At the very least, the laptop
can say, "This is not an approved (i.e., sold by me) power adaptor.
I refuse to ___________"

As seen in the URL I posted (elsewhere) for Dimiter, at least one
such adapter has a ROM inside that the laptop queries. Presumably,
if the ROM is absent or contains "funky" data, the laptop could opt
not to perform (or, perform incorrectly).

It's unclear if other power supplies (including the ones in
question) do anything *active* with the comm link (e.g., transfer
information about the temperature of the power supply, load current,
etc.). Or, if the laptop *commands* the power supply ("enable
charging mode") during operation.

There's an effort to standardize laptop chargers, similar I guess to
how EU mandated that cell phones must be able to charge from USB

The fact that vendors (at least IBM, Dell and HP, from my experience)
are adding this "feature" to their power adaptors suggests they
want to hold onto the power adapter business (?). Note you don't
see much effort to standardize ink jet cartridges :> Nor do
I imagine any printer vendors will be quick to embrace such an idea!

About the only good reason I can think of to have the power supply "talk"
to the laptop is to allow different battery charge rates for different
sized chargers, therefore allowing the manufacturer to sell either a big
"home" charger or a small "road" charger and have the laptop charge as fast
as possible with either one.

I can imagine a power supply "telling" the laptop that it (the power
supply) is running hot and, thus, should reduce its load (esp given
that the laptop has control over a *big* piece of its load -- the
charger!).

I can also imagine a power supply telling the laptop how much power
it is *actually* using (adding those monitoring components *outside*
the physical constraints of the laptop itself) so the laptop can
better calibrate its battery monitoring algorithms (instead of
just watching Vbat without any real idea as to how quickly it
*should* be falling -- when operating on battery).

And, the mere presence of a third conductor could be exploited to
*move* the charger into the power adapter using the third conductor
to deliver "charge current" separate from "operating power" for the
laptop. Even potentially multiplexing (TDM) data onto that conductor!

As I said, once you open the door to smarts in the power supply, you
can come up with lots of more interesting designs with increased
levels of integration across the "power cord" boundary!

[But, other than the URL I posted suggesting "ID" information,
I have no idea how power supplies currently use the conductor]
 
On Thu, 09 Jan 2014 18:43:53 +1000, Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:

uchethegenius1@gmail.com

How do you derive the efficiency of a transformer from the first
principle
of electric circuit.


** Efficiency = power out / power in ( times 100 for percent ).

Now YOU get to explain WFT you really want to know.




.... Phil

Gee Phil, for someone so bereft of notable achievements as you are, you
are still an arrogant, abusive turd.
Now you get to explain WTF you are better than everyone else.
 
On Thu, 09 Jan 2014 18:43:53 +1000, Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:

uchethegenius1@gmail.com

How do you derive the efficiency of a transformer from the first
principle
of electric circuit.


** Efficiency = power out / power in ( times 100 for percent ).

Now YOU get to explain WFT you really want to know.




.... Phil
 
On Thu, 09 Jan 2014 18:43:53 +1000, Phil Allison <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:

uchethegenius1@gmail.com

How do you derive the efficiency of a transformer from the first
principle
of electric circuit.


** Efficiency = power out / power in ( times 100 for percent ).

Now YOU get to explain WFT you really want to know.




.... Phil

Oh I did forget - why are you posting here? Weren't you going to sabotage
this news-group or some such? Yet another example of how far your pathetic
reality is from you self-delusional grandure.
 
On Thursday, January 9, 2014 11:49:51 AM UTC-5, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Wed, 08 Jan 2014 23:14:49 -0800, uchethegenius1 wrote:

How do you derive the efficiency of a transformer from the first
principle of electric circuit.

With great difficulty.


There are a lot of factors at play, some of which are dependent on
haracteristics of the materials involved that aren't always easy to pin
down. Moreover, how you use the transformer in your circuit matters.

Finally, for some applications the efficiency doesn't matter nearly as
much as other things; usually bandwidth or fidelity of reproduction.

Factors that I know of are:

The resistance of the windings,
the resistivity of the core material,
the thickness of the laminations (if any),
the nonlinear magnetic properties of the core material,
the overall shape of the core and windings

I'm sure there's more.

Hi Tim, If you wanted to keep it simple isn't there some leakage inductance (or is leakage the wrong term) that you see modeled as being in parallel (I think) with the primary, and given the leakage inductance and the winding resistance you could calculate some loss.

George (not a transformer guy) Herold
I suspect that even in this day and age of high-falutin' computerized

finite-element analysis, you'll still find that in practice anyone who

can build you a transformer and have it possess the correct efficiency by

design is someone who has designed and tested dozens or hundreds of

similar transformers and is leaning on a wealth of practical information,

rather than analysis from "first principles".



--



Tim Wescott

Wescott Design Services

http://www.wescottdesign.com
 

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