Driver to drive?

[Joerg]

On 2016-09-11 15:52, David Eather wrote:

On Mon, 12 Sep 2016 00:31:34 +1000, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com
wrote:

On 2016-09-10 18:37, David Eather wrote:
On Sun, 11 Sep 2016 04:45:57 +1000, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com
wrote:

On 2016-09-09 17:25, David Eather wrote:
On Sat, 10 Sep 2016 08:35:46 +1000, Joerg <news@analogconsultants.com
wrote:

On 2016-09-09 15:05, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, 9 September 2016 20:30:10 UTC+1, JW wrote:
Bought this piece of junk at a garage sale.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MIP108-I-Station-Speakers-Docking-Station-White/dp/B000G0G6K2




Sounds OK enough for what it is. Not using it with an iphone, I
just
wanted something better sounding than my laptops built in speakers
on the
front porch for the summer.

The problem: If the thing doesn't detect any sound for about 10
seconds,
it goes into power management mode and cuts out the amp. If you're
listening to music that has quiet sections you'll get chunks of
audio cut
out of the music while the amp turns back on!

Good grief, the idiot engineer who designed this! I hope he got his
pink
slip.

Maybe this winter I'll open it up and see if there's a way to
disable this
"feature".

a bigger cap should make it a minute


Probably a timing given by a micro processor. Then the only way to
defeat it is to inject a periodical signal that is above the audio
range but still recognizeable by the detector. Got to watch out that
it doesn't annoy animals though as they can often hear much higher
frequencies than we do.


A simple picaxe monitoring the input and putting out a low level burst
of noise at 9 seconds would work - easy to knock up too. Could also be
done with some 555's (missing pulse detector) plus glue


But that's too pedestrian and not sporty enough

A real manly solution would be a transistor stage in the shape of a
regenerative receiver, except that the stage is tuned to some really
high audio frequency instead of RF and is squegging into brief
oscillation bursts.


Yep - in my older age I've stopped being sporty -


Don't stop. Becoming sedentary is a fast and at some point
irreversible path into a nursing home.

Not becoming sedentary is not a choice I can make. I do what I can but
it is a long way from bench pressing more than my body weight and
squatting almost double - plus fun with karate. I loved it. But I
mustn't dwell or the 'black dog' will come and bite me.

Sure, if some other health issue comes in that can place a major damper
on activity.

Now that I am gradually approaching retirement
age I have upped my game when it comes to mileage on the mountain bike
and road bike. Once I can ratchet down to 3days/week or less I'll
start doing 80-100 milers, all day rides.


... ever seen a 100kg man
run without a shirt (don't try to visualize - it's not good)....


I regularly see such a guy on bike trips east. It is not a pretty sight.

It's strangely hypnotic.
Yes, it's like a lava lamp.
Mulder and Scully (Simpsons quote)

It's plain ugly.

... My concern
with near/low ultrasonics were possible filters, a/d acquisition times
and driving the nearest dog/teenager mad. Hum..., put that way.... there
could be advantages.


Probably only a tiny amplitude is needed here and the speaker will
have very poor efficiency so not much gets through the chain. Also,
one might be able to simply use a continuously running oscillator
which has the least chance of disturbance.


Just musing - a random noise source (pink or brown) might work well. If
the environment is loud enough it might even pass totally unnoticed.

It depends on how they structured the detector. Most likely it is doing
its job in the digital domain. It should be happy with a constant or
almost constant noise because many people listen to the soothing sounds
of ocean waves. Gentle ones, not the daredevil surfboarder type of wave.

--
Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

 

[JW]

On Sun, 11 Sep 2016 09:30:57 -0700 (PDT) bloggs.fredbloggs.fred@gmail.com
wrote in Message id:
<7379b689-b4d8-4038-bef1-0535491f072d@googlegroups.com>:

On Saturday, September 10, 2016 at 1:49:31 PM UTC-4, JW wrote:
On Fri, 09 Sep 2016 15:30:05 -0400 JW <none@dev.null> wrote in Message id:
fs26tb9arnl6jp2cam08qra6urtj1mjsoc@4ax.com>:

Bought this piece of junk at a garage sale.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/MIP108-I-Station-Speakers-Docking-Station-White/dp/B000G0G6K2

Sounds OK enough for what it is. Not using it with an iphone, I just
wanted something better sounding than my laptops built in speakers on the
front porch for the summer.

The problem: If the thing doesn't detect any sound for about 10 seconds,
it goes into power management mode and cuts out the amp. If you're
listening to music that has quiet sections you'll get chunks of audio cut
out of the music while the amp turns back on!

Good grief, the idiot engineer who designed this! I hope he got his pink
slip.

Maybe this winter I'll open it up and see if there's a way to disable this
"feature".


Decided winter is still too far away to live with this idiotic flaw.
http://www.eevblog.com/forum/reviews/the-dumbest-design-flaw-i've-seen-in-a-while/msg1023011/#msg1023011
Fixed.

That's not bad. Did you find out how the micro was detecting sound?

Nah, didn't bother. Electricity is cheap, and time is not.

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2016-08-30, Don Y <blockedofcourse@foo.invalid> wrote:

On 8/29/2016 10:33 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Nice ting about Win2K, is that it is so old that it is below contempt
and malware..

Yep. Security by obscurity is such a wonder method.

Yeah, makes you wonder why all these places that get hacked (Sony, DNC,
election boards, etc.) don't just fire their IT departments and
reinstall W95 -- or, W3.1 for even MORE "security"!

"I drive a Model T -- no door locks, windows, etc. And, as I'm the
ONLY ONE who drives one, it is theft-proof! (no key fobs to hack,
no door locks to spring with slim jims, etc.)"

To steal one you either need a tow truck or need to know how to
work the foot operated gear-change.

--
This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software

 

[Phil Hobbs]

About like the Direct TV droids who accost me in stores.  I tell them,
loudly, that their service sucks so bad that even as bad as AT&T has
been, it's worlds better than DTV.  ...and I get Netflix now.

Apart from one documentary about a friend's family ("Game Show Dynamos"), I haven't watched a movie since the '80s.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

 

[Phil Hobbs]

Apart from one documentary about a friend's family ("Game Show Dynamos"),
I haven't watched a movie since the '80s.

Is that necessarily an accomplishment?  I haven't been to a movie
theater in a couple of years, but I watch mostly movies on Cable, plus
I have a library of around 300 DVD classics.

Well, not doing something doesn't usually count as an accomplishment.

Movies and videos are intended to grab hold of one's full attention, which is basically what I don't like about them.

Some minority are honest about what they present, but IME none repays in interest what it demands in attention, so I get bored very rapidly. I can have fun with a pad of paper, more still with a book, and way more than that with good company. Family dinners round here are a riot.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

 

[Phil Hobbs]

Be glad it isn't land sharks.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=XMxkRh7sx84

Back in the '80s there was a bit of a plague of sharks severing undersea cables. A grad school colleague had a poster on his door purporting to show that this was a continuation of 1/f noise down to the 10**-8 Hz level.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Wed, 5 Oct 2016 13:53:15 -0700 (PDT), Phil Hobbs
<pcdhobbs@gmail.com> wrote:

About like the Direct TV droids who accost me in stores.  I tell them,
loudly, that their service sucks so bad that even as bad as AT&T has
been, it's worlds better than DTV.  ...and I get Netflix now.

Apart from one documentary about a friend's family ("Game Show Dynamos"), I haven't watched a movie since the '80s.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

Is that necessarily an accomplishment? I haven't been to a movie
theater in a couple of years, but I watch mostly movies on Cable, plus
I have a library of around 300 DVD classics.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| STV, Queen Creek, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

 

[krw]

On Wed, 5 Oct 2016 13:53:15 -0700 (PDT), Phil Hobbs
<pcdhobbs@gmail.com> wrote:

About like the Direct TV droids who accost me in stores.  I tell them,
loudly, that their service sucks so bad that even as bad as AT&T has
been, it's worlds better than DTV.  ...and I get Netflix now.

Apart from one documentary about a friend's family ("Game Show Dynamos"), I haven't watched a movie since the '80s.

You've missed a lot of good movies but also a lot of dreck. We saw
"Sully" in the theater last week - awesome movie. We go to the movies
about once or twice a month, if there is something to see. We've only
seen a couple of movies this year, though. Pretty lame year.

Netflix has more than movies but you probably don't watch TV at all.

 

[krw]

On Wed, 5 Oct 2016 16:41:41 -0700 (PDT), Phil Hobbs
<pcdhobbs@gmail.com> wrote:

Apart from one documentary about a friend's family ("Game Show Dynamos"),
I haven't watched a movie since the '80s.

Is that necessarily an accomplishment?  I haven't been to a movie
theater in a couple of years, but I watch mostly movies on Cable, plus
I have a library of around 300 DVD classics.

Well, not doing something doesn't usually count as an accomplishment.

Movies and videos are intended to grab hold of one's full attention, which is basically what I don't like about them.

So is sex. ;-)

>Some minority are honest about what they present, but IME none repays in interest what it demands in attention, so I get bored very rapidly. I can have fun with a pad of paper, more still with a book, and way more than that with good company. Family dinners round here are a riot.

My mind never wanders in the good ones. The not so good, well, I can
always watch my watch.

 

On Monday, October 3, 2016 at 12:52:14 PM UTC-4, OGI wrote:

Looking at getting Spectrum cable but having spec difficulty.

They will provide a router only, router with wifi or router with wifi
and phone but cannot give me specs.

What's my problem ?
I currently have AT&T WiFi Router that does not have much power out and
seems to drop WiFI or internet or ??? often. My security cams turn off
and the app shuts down. Bad app too !

If I use WiFi Analytics WiFi app on my laptop it shows the AT&T WiFI at
"Max Rate" 150 where another LAN WIFi router at the other end of the
house shows as "Max Rate" 300. I cannot watch movies from the back
room PC where the AT&T WiFi is to the living room PC using their wifi
since it stops and stutters. Using a cable down the hall works perfectly.

Several questions.
What feature should I be looking for in a WiFi router:
Speed 300 vs 150 "Max Rate"
Power output
Dual freq 2.9 vs 5 GHz
AC protocol or whatever it is called

Spectrum says it installs an Arris TG1672G but it does not specify
output power in the specs I found. Anyone have a better spec source ?
I am not even sure that is the WiFi modem router that I will get as it
seems they grab whatever is handy to bring out to install.

So I hate to think I would have to set up my own WiFi Router.

Last question -
If I get internet only and want phone service, what are my choices ?
And would that service be able to take my current land line phone
number and use it ? I would totally drop AT&T if so.
Does that service have caller ID - mandatory feature for me to have.

Also is there a preferred Channel ? 1 or 6 or 11 or ???

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Two routers mean two completely separate LAN(Local Area Network). Note that each
router will have its own WAN (Wide Area
Network) side and a LAN side, with the
router passing data back and forth netween
LAN -> WAN and WAN -> LAN. The two routers
may share the same WAN. Any device in
the LAN of one router, cannot directly
exchange data with a device in the LAN
of a separate router, even if located in
the same physical location. Such data
exchanges have got to take place via the
WAN. Incoming packets at a router will
be filtered via the router's firewall,
NAT(Network Address Translation) tables
and Port Forwarding rules.

All ADSL modems these days have a router backend. So a viable and reliable setup
would include an ADSL modem/router followed
ny an Ethernet switch, and zero WiFi
connections. This is because ALL wireless
channels are "best-effort" and with
increasing wireless transmission frequencies,
packet collisions WILL occur - can't beat
Mother Nature.

A network should first and foremost be
reliable -- hope rhis helps.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Wed, 5 Oct 2016 16:41:41 -0700 (PDT), Phil Hobbs
<pcdhobbs@gmail.com> wrote:

Apart from one documentary about a friend's family ("Game Show Dynamos"),
I haven't watched a movie since the '80s.

Is that necessarily an accomplishment?  I haven't been to a movie
theater in a couple of years, but I watch mostly movies on Cable, plus
I have a library of around 300 DVD classics.

Well, not doing something doesn't usually count as an accomplishment.

Movies and videos are intended to grab hold of one's full attention, which is basically what I don't like about them.

Attention Deficit Syndrome ?>:-}

Some minority are honest about what they present, but IME none repays in interest what it demands in attention, so I get bored very rapidly. I can have fun with a pad of paper, more still with a book, and way more than that with good company. Family dinners round here are a riot.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

"Family dinners round here are a riot"... that I agree with ;-) ...
Particularly with our mixed ethnicity...

When a Hispanic son-in-law-to-be came the first time to dinner, he was
very quiet. Upon leaving with our daughter, he said, "You argued with
_your_father_ ???"

(I gather they don't do that in Hispanic families ;-)

Our daughter's response was, "We weren't arguing, it was
'discussion'." (She still votes Democrat ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| STV, Queen Creek, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

 

[George Herold]

On Tuesday, October 11, 2016 at 5:27:40 PM UTC-4, WiFiAdapterHelp wrote:

Residential Home WiFi has interference from hot WiFi neighbors.
The must be running watts output.

Had the ISP install a new box that has AC WiFi, dual band etc.
They gave me one AC adapter (USB) for my main PC.
It is fast WiFi now.

Now I want to get AC to USB Adapters for other laptop PCs.
One is Windows XP the other is Windows 10.
I see some units do not support Windows 10.

I hope not to pay much more than $20 US.

I see various units coming from unheard of manufacturers.
They must have gotten a deal on the chips.

Do I need one with a built-on antenna ?
Seems desirable.

Do I need speed greater than 600 ?
I do not know how to translate that number to my needs.
I'm watching movies on a PC that is WiFi to the viewing PC.

Some units offer AP (access point) capability.
That seems desirable.

Suggestions please.

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

(I have no idea.)
1.) More power Scotty! (do they sell amps?)
2.) Shielding, find where neighbors transmitter is
and put up Al foil, maybe? Experiment?

George H.

 

On Monday, 14 November 2016 15:02:03 UTC, John Robertson wrote:

On 201611/13/ 8:10 PM, Sideley wrote:

This newsgroup seems to be deserted. Does anyone can help me to arrange a led array to reduce heat ? I can give further details if someone show up.


You would be better off posting to sci.electronics.repair or .design
(cross-posted).

You're hardly going to get anywhere with that little information.

 

On Tuesday, November 15, 2016 at 2:02:03 AM UTC+11, John Robertson wrote:

On 201611/13/ 8:10 PM, Sideley wrote:
This newsgroup seems to be deserted. Does anyone can help me to arrange a led array to reduce heat ? I can give further details if someone show up..

Each LED is a heat source. You need to put them all fairly close to a sheet of metal - or some other conductor - which can carry the heat away to a place where you can disperse it.

If you had loads of money, you could set up a "heat pipe" where each LED would be boiling a small quantity of water in a closely adjacent bit of the heat pipe, and the steam generated would flow away to be condensed by a big - and remote - array of fins which would shift the heat into ambient air blown or convecting through them. There's no gas other than steam inside the heat pipe, so water can boil - or evaporate very fast - at temperatures below 100C.

You might read up on "thermal resistance" - the temperature drop in degrees Kelvin along a heat conductor when there there's a defined amount of heat (in Watts, or Joules per second) flowing along it.

--
Bill Sloman, Sydney

 

[George Herold]

On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 9:03:41 PM UTC-5, bill....@ieee.org wrote:

On Tuesday, November 15, 2016 at 2:02:03 AM UTC+11, John Robertson wrote:
On 201611/13/ 8:10 PM, Sideley wrote:
This newsgroup seems to be deserted. Does anyone can help me to arrange a led array to reduce heat ? I can give further details if someone show up.

Each LED is a heat source. You need to put them all fairly close to a sheet of metal - or some other conductor - which can carry the heat away to a place where you can disperse it.

If you had loads of money, you could set up a "heat pipe" where each LED would be boiling a small quantity of water in a closely adjacent bit of the heat pipe, and the steam generated would flow away to be condensed by a big - and remote - array of fins which would shift the heat into ambient air blown or convecting through them. There's no gas other than steam inside the heat pipe, so water can boil - or evaporate very fast - at temperatures below 100C.

You might read up on "thermal resistance" - the temperature drop in degrees Kelvin along a heat conductor when there there's a defined amount of heat (in Watts, or Joules per second) flowing along it.

--
Bill Sloman, Sydney

Yup, spread them out each with a little heatsink/radiator each,
or get a bigger local radiator.
James Arthur had a nice thread on his beer can led radiator.

George H.

 

Ok, i see that there are people in here.

I am running a led fixture made out of a fluorescent fixture and a MC PCB: 8 1W leds are soldered to a MCPPCB which is glued to the aluminium shade by means of a glue and thermal paste. See photos for your reference.

The 8 leds are mounted into 2 series of 4 leds.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=690081&d=1479100005

When the leds are supplied with a 175mA current, the temperature on the aluminum shade (right at the back of the PCB) is about 35°C while the ambiant temp is about 30°C. But when supplied with 350mA, the nominal current, the temperature would raise up to roughly 60°C, which is way to hot.

In my opinion, the heat is partly because those leds are cheap and ineffcient. My question is if i replaced them with better quality chip leds with proven efficiency of about say 130lm/W, and run them at 350mA Would i still need to add over radiators to this homemade fixture ?

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2016-11-15, sideley@yahoo.com <sideley@yahoo.com> wrote:

Ok, i see that there are people in here.

I am running a led fixture made out of a fluorescent fixture and a MC PCB: 8 1W leds are soldered to a MCPPCB which is glued to the aluminium shade by means of a glue and thermal paste. See photos for your reference.

The 8 leds are mounted into 2 series of 4 leds.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=690081&d=1479100005

When the leds are supplied with a 175mA current, the temperature on the aluminum shade (right at the back of the PCB) is about 35°C while the ambiant temp is about 30°C. But when supplied with 350mA, the nominal current, the temperature would raise up to roughly 60°C, which is way to hot.

In my opinion, the heat is partly because those leds are cheap and
ineffcient. My question is if i replaced them with better quality chip
leds with proven efficiency of about say 130lm/W, and run them at
350mA Would i still need to add over radiators to this homemade
fixture ?

not much cooler, but if more efficient it will be brighter.

perhaps the high efficiency leds will be bright enoug at 175mA






--
This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software

 

On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 15:14:04 UTC+7, upsid...@downunder.com wrote:

On Mon, 14 Nov 2016 20:40:32 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Ok, i see that there are people in here.

I am running a led fixture made out of a fluorescent fixture and a MC PCB: 8 1W leds are soldered to a MCPPCB which is glued to the aluminium shade by means of a glue and thermal paste. See photos for your reference.

The 8 leds are mounted into 2 series of 4 leds.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=690081&d=1479100005

When the leds are supplied with a 175mA current, the temperature on the aluminum shade (right at the back of the PCB) is about 35°C while the ambiant temp is about 30°C. But when supplied with 350mA, the nominal current, the temperature would raise up to roughly 60°C, which is way to hot.

In my opinion, the heat is partly because those leds are cheap and ineffcient. My question is if i replaced them with better quality chip leds with proven efficiency of about say 130lm/W, and run them at 350mA Would i still need to add over radiators to this homemade fixture ?

Look carefully at the LED specifications. The life time for those "1
W" LEDs are usually claimed at 150 or 175 mA, dropping rapidly at 300
or 350 mA.

The 130 lm/W is claimed at 150 mA or similar, but may drop to 100 lm/W
at 350 mA.

Run the LEDs at 1/2 maximum power and compensate the loss of absolute
brightness by doubling the number of LEDs. This will also simplify
thermal design, since the internal junction temperature rise relative
to heatsink is also halved.

So if I wish to improve this without adding a heat sink, basically i would do so: trading for more efficient brand name chip leds and keeping running them at half the nominal current ?

 

On Tuesday, 15 November 2016 04:40:38 UTC, sid...@yahoo.com wrote:

Ok, i see that there are people in here.

I am running a led fixture made out of a fluorescent fixture and a MC PCB: 8 1W leds are soldered to a MCPPCB which is glued to the aluminium shade by means of a glue and thermal paste. See photos for your reference.

The 8 leds are mounted into 2 series of 4 leds.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=690081&d=1479100005

When the leds are supplied with a 175mA current, the temperature on the aluminum shade (right at the back of the PCB) is about 35°C while the ambiant temp is about 30°C. But when supplied with 350mA, the nominal current, the temperature would raise up to roughly 60°C, which is way to hot.

In my opinion, the heat is partly because those leds are cheap and ineffcient.

Nothing to do with either, it's because you're giving them 350mA and not enough heatsinking.

> My question is if i replaced them with better quality chip leds with proven efficiency of about say 130lm/W, and run them at 350mA Would i still need to add over radiators to this homemade fixture ?

it wouldn't make much difference to how hot they get.


NT

 

On Mon, 14 Nov 2016 20:40:32 -0800 (PST), sideley@yahoo.com wrote:

Ok, i see that there are people in here.

I am running a led fixture made out of a fluorescent fixture and a MC PCB: 8 1W leds are soldered to a MCPPCB which is glued to the aluminium shade by means of a glue and thermal paste. See photos for your reference.

The 8 leds are mounted into 2 series of 4 leds.

http://www.plantedtank.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=690081&d=1479100005

When the leds are supplied with a 175mA current, the temperature on the aluminum shade (right at the back of the PCB) is about 35°C while the ambiant temp is about 30°C. But when supplied with 350mA, the nominal current, the temperature would raise up to roughly 60°C, which is way to hot.

In my opinion, the heat is partly because those leds are cheap and ineffcient. My question is if i replaced them with better quality chip leds with proven efficiency of about say 130lm/W, and run them at 350mA Would i still need to add over radiators to this homemade fixture ?

Look carefully at the LED specifications. The life time for those "1
W" LEDs are usually claimed at 150 or 175 mA, dropping rapidly at 300
or 350 mA.

The 130 lm/W is claimed at 150 mA or similar, but may drop to 100 lm/W
at 350 mA.

Run the LEDs at 1/2 maximum power and compensate the loss of absolute
brightness by doubling the number of LEDs. This will also simplify
thermal design, since the internal junction temperature rise relative
to heatsink is also halved.