Driver to drive?

[George Herold]

On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 10:55:17 AM UTC-5, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 20:51:23 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

John G wrote:

Ralph Mowery expressed precisely :
"Steve" <loft@centurylink.net> wrote in message
news:87egc65xql.fsf@centurylink.net...
Bob E. <bespoke@invalid.tv> writes:

I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't
tin. It's < almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can
apply it. With both a < temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F)
and a mondo 100W stick I finally < tried. The solder will barely
melt when touched to the braid opposite the < iron.

That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch


Most of the rg-6 uses aluminum instead of copper or tinned copper.
The normal methods of soldering will not work on it.

I'll believe Aluminium or steel I must admit to only a little actual
experience.
Some Cable guy should give an actual answer.


The original RG6 used a copper center conductor, and a copper braid over
a stiff, solid insulator. It was barely useful for video. The RG6/U used
for CATV has a copper plated steel center conductor, foam inner
insulator and aluminum foil covered by aluminum drain wires. If it is to
be used overhead, it has a separate stainless steel 'messenger' wire
with a Siamese outer jacket over both the coax and the messenger strand.
I worked in CATV, and used to see 50,000 feet of it come in at a time.
The best way to be sure is see who made the cable in question, and look
up the OEM's specifications for that exact type of cable.

We used Belden, Commscope, and other American made brands back in the
mid '80s.

He got most of it right.

As a former installer of a dual system (Cube) (Time/Warner)(Warner/
Amex)We had dual 'siamesed' cables and those used for "drops" had the
messenger strand.

However, ALL of it, indoor, outdoor, drop lines, and UG (underground)
ALL had a braided tin plated copper braid over the foil layers. The foam
core had a laminated immobile foil affixed to it, and then there was foil
and braid over that. I know because foil tears and braid does not, and
the fittings used in the industry get crimped on, and foil alone will not
endure those stresses over time, if not fail immediately.

Huh, that's interesting. for low noise cable and electrostatic pickup
at ~DC (1-10Hz) to ~1MHz. braid alone won't cut it, and you need a
foil shield too. I'm talking ~1foot lengths (30 cm)....

George H.

But RG-6 can be bought in many different configurations. It is more
about the form factor and physical size and characteristic impedance.
RG-59 was the same impedance but slightly smaller but had a higher
capacitance per foot and could not be used on longer runs, whereas the RG-6
could perform over greater distances Mainly due to a thicker core to
shield spacing making for a lower parasitic capacitance per foot.

 

[boB]

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 17:44:31 -0800 (PST), Bill Beaty
<billb@eskimo.com> wrote:

On Monday, May 20, 2002 at 9:21:29 PM UTC-7, Ms R in Colorado wrote:
Does anyone make a little 150 VAC hand crank generator kit, like they use for
high school demos of electricity?

No, not anymore. You can find old ones on eBay, search for:

telephone magneto

For classrooms, hand-crank generators are six volts DC. Everyone is terrified of lawsuits.

Western U in Bellingham WA also made the eletrical engineering
department get rid of their Tesla Coil for the same reason.

boB

No way would any company sell a 150V generator for schools. The most popular low-volt model is "Genecon" from Arbor Sci. and others, but $60 pricey:

http://www.arborsci.com/hand-crank-generator-accessories


Other models:

http://www.miniscience.com/projects/KITWG/
Generator kit w/cow magnet</a> $25, or $20 class pak

http://www.amazon.com/Dowling-Magnets-Electric-Generator-Discovery/dp/B0006O8RA0
Science kit generator, Dowling Magnets $26

http://www.freelights.co.uk/kit.html
Freelights bicycle gen kit (UK)&lt;/a

http://www.amazon.com/Thames-Kosmos-555003-Electric-Generator/dp/B003KZ0Q5G
Science kit generator, Thames Kosmos $39

http://www.amazon.com/Elenco-Electronic-Motor-Generator-Action/dp/B000IXPYS2
Elenco Motor &amp; Generator kit $35

http://www.amazon.com/Green-Science-Windmill-Generator-Toysmith/dp/B0016PBH9Q
Windmill Electric Generator $12

http://www.amazon.com/American-Educational-7-1853-Generator-Length/dp/B00657NH7K
Am. Edu. classroom handcrank generator $17

http://www.amazon.com/Pacific-Science-Supplies-Inc-Generator/dp/B001DI6PSO
PSS classroom handcrank generator $15

http://www.amazon.com/HyMini-Hand-Crank-Generator/dp/B002MXT8A6
HyMini 6Vdc 0.2Amp crank generator (not transparent) $12

 

[DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUn]

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 22:35:30 -0800, boB wrote:

On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 17:44:31 -0800 (PST), Bill Beaty &lt;billb@eskimo.com
wrote:

On Monday, May 20, 2002 at 9:21:29 PM UTC-7, Ms R in Colorado wrote:
Does anyone make a little 150 VAC hand crank generator kit, like they
use for high school demos of electricity?

No, not anymore. You can find old ones on eBay, search for:

telephone magneto

For classrooms, hand-crank generators are six volts DC. Everyone is
terrified of lawsuits.


Western U in Bellingham WA also made the eletrical engineering
department get rid of their Tesla Coil for the same reason.

That's funny. My Jr. High School Science Fair science project was what
I dubbed as a lie detector. It was essentially a car coil and a 1.5 volt
battery and two 1/2" x 3" steel rods at the end of the wires.

Of course it was merely a shock box, but I called it a Lie Detector and
had quite a few fathers tell me their age as I shocked them and said that
"the machine says you are lying". I thought it was quite hilarious at the
time. Not many pacemakers around yet. It was fun and funny as hell.

 

[Bill Beaty]

On Monday, February 22, 2016 at 5:44:43 PM UTC-8, Bill Beaty wrote:

Other models:

Did I miss any? I'm keeping a list of 'em on coilgen. (Heh, should add an eBay search link for crank telephone magnetos.)

 

On Tuesday, 23 February 2016 07:00:08 UTC, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno wrote:

That's funny. My Jr. High School Science Fair science project was what
I dubbed as a lie detector. It was essentially a car coil and a 1.5 volt
battery and two 1/2" x 3" steel rods at the end of the wires.

Of course it was merely a shock box, but I called it a Lie Detector and
had quite a few fathers tell me their age as I shocked them and said that
"the machine says you are lying". I thought it was quite hilarious at the
time. Not many pacemakers around yet. It was fun and funny as hell.

I put the biggest coin I could get in a bucket of water. They paid to have a go If they got close I upped the voltage lol. How things change. People would probably be hauled away if that happened today.


NT

 

[Martin Brown]

On 23/02/2016 01:44, Bill Beaty wrote:

On Monday, May 20, 2002 at 9:21:29 PM UTC-7, Ms R in Colorado wrote:
Does anyone make a little 150 VAC hand crank generator kit, like they use for
high school demos of electricity?

No, not anymore. You can find old ones on eBay, search for:

telephone magneto

For classrooms, hand-crank generators are six volts DC. Everyone is terrified of lawsuits.
No way would any company sell a 150V generator for schools.
The most popular low-volt model is "Genecon" from Arbor Sci. and
others, but $60 pricey:

http://www.arborsci.com/hand-crank-generator-accessories

It is easier to make one from a simple motor with a pulley on a couple
of CDs to form a largish drive pulley and a rubber band. Stepper motors
out of defunct printers can be repurposed this way.

Easily enough to drive a couple of high brightness LEDs.

The other way is a coil and Nd magnets stuck to a CD.

Both are things the children could build for themselves under guidance.
(or your lab tech could make for next to nothing)

--
Regards,
Martin Brown

 

On Wednesday, 24 February 2016 11:31:11 UTC, Jasen Betts wrote:

On 2016-02-23, Martin Brown &lt;|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk&gt; wrote:

For classrooms, hand-crank generators are six volts DC. Everyone is terrified of lawsuits.
No way would any company sell a 150V generator for schools.
The most popular low-volt model is "Genecon" from Arbor Sci. and
others, but $60 pricey:

http://www.arborsci.com/hand-crank-generator-accessories

It is easier to make one from a simple motor with a pulley on a couple
of CDs to form a largish drive pulley and a rubber band. Stepper motors
out of defunct printers can be repurposed this way.

for a few bucks you can get a 5V ish hand-crank generator "usb charger"
on-line, it'll light LEDs, but doesn't seem like a very practical
charger.

If you want more voltage the platter motor in many microwave ovens runs
at line voltage and can produce hundereds of volts if turned by hand.
if you want to buy new look for a synchronous gear-motor with single-digit
RPM.

I get a kV out of the 240v tt motors.


NT

 

[Jasen Betts]

On 2016-02-23, Martin Brown &lt;|||newspam|||@nezumi.demon.co.uk&gt; wrote:

For classrooms, hand-crank generators are six volts DC. Everyone is terrified of lawsuits.
No way would any company sell a 150V generator for schools.
The most popular low-volt model is "Genecon" from Arbor Sci. and
others, but $60 pricey:

http://www.arborsci.com/hand-crank-generator-accessories

It is easier to make one from a simple motor with a pulley on a couple
of CDs to form a largish drive pulley and a rubber band. Stepper motors
out of defunct printers can be repurposed this way.

for a few bucks you can get a 5V ish hand-crank generator "usb charger"
on-line, it'll light LEDs, but doesn't seem like a very practical
charger.

If you want more voltage the platter motor in many microwave ovens runs
at line voltage and can produce hundereds of volts if turned by hand.
if you want to buy new look for a synchronous gear-motor with single-digit
RPM.



--
\_(ツ)_

 

[Michael A. Terrell]

dstradling7@gmail.com wrote:

On Tuesday, May 21, 2002 at 12:21:29 AM UTC-4, Ms R in Colorado wrote:
Does anyone make a little 150 VAC hand crank generator kit, like they use for
high school demos of electricity? You know, the kinds that have a little hand
crank and some big bar magnets around a coil?

I'd also like to find one of those old army surplus field telephone hand
crank generators, like this one? http://dimensional.com/~melissa/generatr.jpg

--
- Melissa in Colorado, USA.

I currently have about 300 of these hand crank generators.

Do you really think they waited 13 years, for your reply?

 

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As a major manufacturer of high-performance gear motor, ZHAOWEI offers total satisfaction to its worldwide customers in office equipment, home appliance, multimedia, power tool, automotive parts, medical instrument, textile industry equipment, industrial automation and toy industries and so on.
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On Saturday, 27 February 2016 11:23:48 UTC, Andrew Gabriel wrote:

As you go to steel and then stainless steal, it gets harder to do.
Stainless steal in particular is protected from corrosion by a very
tough layer of chromium oxide (I don't know if it's possible to
solder stainless steel at all).

Its easy. Use concentrated phosphoric acid as a flux. Ordinary tin/lead solder works fine. I haven't tried lead free.

John

 

[dcaster@krl.org]

On Saturday, March 5, 2016 at 12:14:19 PM UTC-5, DaveC wrote:

I read that dielectric grease is good to keep contacts sealed against the
elements that have high physical pressure (which overcomes any separation
provided by the grease) but that signal and other low voltages grease is
contra-indicated.

What say y'all?

Thanks.

http://www.te.com/documentation/whitepapers/pdf/p154-74.pdf

More important to use an low voltage and signals.

Dan

 

On Monday, 7 March 2016 07:52:03 UTC, N_Cook wrote:

On 05/03/2016 17:14, DaveC wrote:
Cleaning up an old rotary mode switch used for 5v logic levels. It has some
kind of grease in it.


...which has always confused me: grease is an insulator (well, the grease in
this switch is--just tested and it's infinite ohms).

I read that dielectric grease is good to keep contacts sealed against the
elements that have high physical pressure (which overcomes any separation
provided by the grease) but that signal and other low voltages grease is
contra-indicated.

What say y'all?

Thanks.


Can we summarise this thread by saying -
Any grease is better than no grease, in low voltage, wiped contact
situations, as long as the grease doesn't go hard with age or otherwise
degrade or corrode the contacts itself

No, definitely not. I often saw grease on contacts in 1950s kit, what happened is it absorbed every kind of dust going and turned into a thick sticky unworkable junk. Switches frequently became almost seized. Dry contacts OTOH oxidise more... ya can't win.

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get corrosive when electricity is applied.


NT

 

On Monday, 7 March 2016 19:04:05 UTC, Jim Thompson wrote:

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 10:48:23 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 7 March 2016 07:52:03 UTC, N_Cook wrote:
On 05/03/2016 17:14, DaveC wrote:
Cleaning up an old rotary mode switch used for 5v logic levels. It has some
kind of grease in it.


...which has always confused me: grease is an insulator (well, the grease in
this switch is--just tested and it's infinite ohms).

I read that dielectric grease is good to keep contacts sealed against the
elements that have high physical pressure (which overcomes any separation
provided by the grease) but that signal and other low voltages grease is
contra-indicated.

What say y'all?

Thanks.


Can we summarise this thread by saying -
Any grease is better than no grease, in low voltage, wiped contact
situations, as long as the grease doesn't go hard with age or otherwise
degrade or corrode the contacts itself

No, definitely not. I often saw grease on contacts in 1950s kit, what happened is it absorbed every kind of dust going and turned into a thick sticky unworkable junk. Switches frequently became almost seized. Dry contacts OTOH oxidise more... ya can't win.

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get corrosive when electricity is applied.


NT

I've been using a silicone spray lubricant on light bulbs threads for
YEARS.

Since I started doing that, no more seized bulbs in the 16' ceiling,
so I can always change with a light pole.

Nothing quite like being that high in the air trying to use a raw
potato to unscrew the remains on a bulb that broke off because the
threads seized :-(

...Jim Thompson

Spray lube is presumably a thin oil not grease. I guess it doesn't form the very thick gunk over decades that greases do.


NT

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 10:48:23 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, 7 March 2016 07:52:03 UTC, N_Cook wrote:
On 05/03/2016 17:14, DaveC wrote:
Cleaning up an old rotary mode switch used for 5v logic levels. It has some
kind of grease in it.


...which has always confused me: grease is an insulator (well, the grease in
this switch is--just tested and it's infinite ohms).

I read that dielectric grease is good to keep contacts sealed against the
elements that have high physical pressure (which overcomes any separation
provided by the grease) but that signal and other low voltages grease is
contra-indicated.

What say y'all?

Thanks.


Can we summarise this thread by saying -
Any grease is better than no grease, in low voltage, wiped contact
situations, as long as the grease doesn't go hard with age or otherwise
degrade or corrode the contacts itself

No, definitely not. I often saw grease on contacts in 1950s kit, what happened is it absorbed every kind of dust going and turned into a thick sticky unworkable junk. Switches frequently became almost seized. Dry contacts OTOH oxidise more... ya can't win.

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get corrosive when electricity is applied.


NT

I've been using a silicone spray lubricant on light bulbs threads for
YEARS.

Since I started doing that, no more seized bulbs in the 16' ceiling,
so I can always change with a light pole.

Nothing quite like being that high in the air trying to use a raw
potato to unscrew the remains on a bulb that broke off because the
threads seized :-(

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[rickman]

On 3/7/2016 6:06 PM, tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, 7 March 2016 19:04:05 UTC, Jim Thompson wrote:
On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 10:48:23 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 7 March 2016 07:52:03 UTC, N_Cook wrote:
On 05/03/2016 17:14, DaveC wrote:
Cleaning up an old rotary mode switch used for 5v logic levels. It has some
kind of grease in it.


...which has always confused me: grease is an insulator (well, the grease in
this switch is--just tested and it's infinite ohms).

I read that dielectric grease is good to keep contacts sealed against the
elements that have high physical pressure (which overcomes any separation
provided by the grease) but that signal and other low voltages grease is
contra-indicated.

What say y'all?

Thanks.


Can we summarise this thread by saying -
Any grease is better than no grease, in low voltage, wiped contact
situations, as long as the grease doesn't go hard with age or otherwise
degrade or corrode the contacts itself

No, definitely not. I often saw grease on contacts in 1950s kit, what happened is it absorbed every kind of dust going and turned into a thick sticky unworkable junk. Switches frequently became almost seized. Dry contacts OTOH oxidise more... ya can't win.

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get corrosive when electricity is applied.


NT

I've been using a silicone spray lubricant on light bulbs threads for
YEARS.

Since I started doing that, no more seized bulbs in the 16' ceiling,
so I can always change with a light pole.

Nothing quite like being that high in the air trying to use a raw
potato to unscrew the remains on a bulb that broke off because the
threads seized :-(

...Jim Thompson

Spray lube is presumably a thin oil not grease. I guess it doesn't form the very thick gunk over decades that greases do.

Oil, grease, it's all the same thing. That's why they use graphite in
locks, it doesn't hold dirt like oil and grease do. I expect Jim's
bulbs aren't exposed to a lot of dust and a ceiling socket doesn't have
much fall into it.

--

Rick

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 15:06:00 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, 7 March 2016 19:04:05 UTC, Jim Thompson wrote:
On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 10:48:23 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 7 March 2016 07:52:03 UTC, N_Cook wrote:
On 05/03/2016 17:14, DaveC wrote:
Cleaning up an old rotary mode switch used for 5v logic levels. It has some
kind of grease in it.


...which has always confused me: grease is an insulator (well, the grease in
this switch is--just tested and it's infinite ohms).

I read that dielectric grease is good to keep contacts sealed against the
elements that have high physical pressure (which overcomes any separation
provided by the grease) but that signal and other low voltages grease is
contra-indicated.

What say y'all?

Thanks.


Can we summarise this thread by saying -
Any grease is better than no grease, in low voltage, wiped contact
situations, as long as the grease doesn't go hard with age or otherwise
degrade or corrode the contacts itself

No, definitely not. I often saw grease on contacts in 1950s kit, what happened is it absorbed every kind of dust going and turned into a thick sticky unworkable junk. Switches frequently became almost seized. Dry contacts OTOH oxidise more... ya can't win.

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get corrosive when electricity is applied.


NT

I've been using a silicone spray lubricant on light bulbs threads for
YEARS.

Since I started doing that, no more seized bulbs in the 16' ceiling,
so I can always change with a light pole.

Nothing quite like being that high in the air trying to use a raw
potato to unscrew the remains on a bulb that broke off because the
threads seized :-(

...Jim Thompson

Spray lube is presumably a thin oil not grease. I guess it doesn't form the very thick gunk over decades that greases do.


NT

This stuff is so thin you're not aware it's there... unless you
accidentally get some on the tile floor... nasty slippery ;-)

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[Jim Thompson]

On Mon, 07 Mar 2016 17:47:09 -0700, Jim Thompson
&lt;To-Email-Use-The-Envelope-Icon@On-My-Web-Site.com&gt; wrote:

On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 15:06:00 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:

On Monday, 7 March 2016 19:04:05 UTC, Jim Thompson wrote:
On Mon, 7 Mar 2016 10:48:23 -0800 (PST), tabbypurr wrote:
On Monday, 7 March 2016 07:52:03 UTC, N_Cook wrote:
On 05/03/2016 17:14, DaveC wrote:
Cleaning up an old rotary mode switch used for 5v logic levels. It has some
kind of grease in it.


...which has always confused me: grease is an insulator (well, the grease in
this switch is--just tested and it's infinite ohms).

I read that dielectric grease is good to keep contacts sealed against the
elements that have high physical pressure (which overcomes any separation
provided by the grease) but that signal and other low voltages grease is
contra-indicated.

What say y'all?

Thanks.


Can we summarise this thread by saying -
Any grease is better than no grease, in low voltage, wiped contact
situations, as long as the grease doesn't go hard with age or otherwise
degrade or corrode the contacts itself

No, definitely not. I often saw grease on contacts in 1950s kit, what happened is it absorbed every kind of dust going and turned into a thick sticky unworkable junk. Switches frequently became almost seized. Dry contacts OTOH oxidise more... ya can't win.

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get corrosive when electricity is applied.


NT

I've been using a silicone spray lubricant on light bulbs threads for
YEARS.

Since I started doing that, no more seized bulbs in the 16' ceiling,
so I can always change with a light pole.

Nothing quite like being that high in the air trying to use a raw
potato to unscrew the remains on a bulb that broke off because the
threads seized :-(

...Jim Thompson

Spray lube is presumably a thin oil not grease. I guess it doesn't form the very thick gunk over decades that greases do.


NT

This stuff is so thin you're not aware it's there... unless you
accidentally get some on the tile floor... nasty slippery ;-)

...Jim Thompson

This is what I use...

&lt;http://tinyurl.com/8apbjn&gt;

For light bulb threads I actually spray onto a paper towel then wipe
the bulb threads.

...Jim Thompson
--
| James E.Thompson | mens |
| Analog Innovations | et |
| Analog/Mixed-Signal ASIC's and Discrete Systems | manus |
| San Tan Valley, AZ 85142 Skype: skypeanalog | |
| Voice480)460-2350 Fax: Available upon request | Brass Rat |
| E-mail Icon at http://www.analog-innovations.com | 1962 |

I love to cook with wine. Sometimes I even put it in the food.

 

[DaveC]

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get
corrosive when electricity is applied.
NT

I (op) in my research came across this warning (which, of course I cannot
find now): silicone grease in the presence of plasma (ie, arcing switch
contacts and such) turns to silicon dioxide, an abrasive.

 

[Tauno Voipio]

On 8.3.16 04:24, DaveC wrote:

I've always been told only use silicone grease on electricals, others get
corrosive when electricity is applied.
NT

I (op) in my research came across this warning (which, of course I cannot
find now): silicone grease in the presence of plasma (ie, arcing switch
contacts and such) turns to silicon dioxide, an abrasive.

The burning silicone destroys the contacts building
an insluating layer on the surfaces.

In the early 70's, I worked for an elevator company,
and we started sudenly getting failures in relay-based
elevator group control systems with hundeds of relays.
The failures were non-conducting contacts. After a long
hunt, the cause was traced to silicone-containing hair
spray of the factory workers.

--

-TV