Deadbolt indicator

[Tom Biasi]

On 9/11/2013 1:17 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

John Fields wrote:

I'd elect for a reed switch instead of a Hall sensor, which would be
much less expensive and, while the deadbolt was open, require zero
current from the supply.


You can get a 'door alarm' at a Dollar Tree store for $1 that has a
reed switch, a magnet in a plastic case and three LR44 batteries. It
also has a small piezo sounder.

But then he didn't get to make anything.

 

[Daniel Pitts]

On 8/26/13 2:48 PM, David Humpherys wrote:

A magnet glued to the end of the deadbolt, and a Hall sensor in the door
jamb would get my vote.


Thanks Phil - a totally different solution i didn't know existed. and a cheap one at that.

I'd have to find a thin magnet so that it didn't interfere with the door opening-closing. something like this might work.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8644

thanks for all the help everyone!!!

I get my magnets from KJ Magnetics. <http://www.kjmagnetics.com/>
That same magnet is about 1/10th the cost from KJ:
<http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=11>

Although, I didn't compare shipping rates.

 

[Daniel Pitts]

On 8/26/13 2:59 PM, John Fields wrote:

On Mon, 26 Aug 2013 16:02:55 -0400, Phil Hobbs
pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 08/26/2013 03:58 PM, Tim Wescott wrote:
On Mon, 26 Aug 2013 10:33:24 -0700, David Humpherys wrote:

You would be better off not to let the dead bolt make the connection.
The bolt could push a micro-switch or activate something else that
would close a circuit.

Thanks Tom,
Do you have any recommendations for a micro-switch that would work for
this type of thing?

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?
productId=2049718&numProdsPerPage=60

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?
productId=2049719&numProdsPerPage=60

Finding a way to mount the switch is going to be a challenge -- you want
to have a lot of leeway for where the deadbolt ends up, while still
reliably actuating the switch. So an arrangement that either lets the
switch be actuated by the side of the deadbolt as it enters its pocket,
or that has a long spring on the switch, is probably best.

Mess with it. These electromechanical projects always end up being more
mechanical than electrical in the end.


A magnet glued to the end of the deadbolt, and a Hall sensor in the door
jamb would get my vote.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

---
I'd elect for a reed switch instead of a Hall sensor, which would be
much less expensive and, while the deadbolt was open, require zero
current from the supply.

Much less expensive? I just ordered 3000 hall effect sensors for $1.80.
Tacked it on to another order I was doing. A reed switch might be easier
for a beginner to work with, but the sensor itself isn't a huge cost.

 

[ABLE1]

"David Humpherys" <david.humpherys@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:43150b30-3ecd-4c56-a302-fed11e3f5820@googlegroups.com...

Been there, Done that, works great
http://www.grisk.com/roller/pb-2020.html

@ABLE1:
I picked up those switches - very cool! they will work great.
Now I'm considering more of the installation of this idea and you mentioned
you had done it. Curious how you approached it.

I'd like to run the wire upstairs to my kitchen - I have access through some
existing wiring. I'm thinking of adding a wall plate and putting the
electronics in an electrical box (the kind you use for a switch). Adding
the LED to the plate and making connectors with something like this.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103982
Any thoughts? Love to know how you did it.

Also, I'm trying to determine if i should use a battery (and maybe add a
push switch to extend the life) - or figure out how to hook it to house
power.

This is all new to me and I'm learning a ton.
Appreciate any help.

David,

Well this is what I did.

I measured the depth of the receiver hole, length of the dead bolt and
determined that the screw that comes with the switch was going to be too
short. I would have to use a longer screw. Then I drilled the 3/8" hole at
the back of the dead bolt receiver hole all the way thru the door frame and
studs. This was deep enough so that it passed beyond the door trim. Then
inline with the hole I drilled another hole at the edge of the molding
through the plaster and hit the first hole. Then using a small solid wire
with a hook and inserting a 22 gage stranded wire into the first hole I
hooked it and pulled it through. Then I attached a 22gage 2 conductor and
pulled it out to the receiver hole where I attached the switch. Pressed the
switch with a longer screw installed into the receiver. I then stapled the
wire along the door trim down to the baseboard where I drilled another hole
at the top edge of the baseboard into the basement cavity. The wire was
then strung through the basement to the alarm panel. I then started to test
with my ohm meter to make sure I had proper position when the dead bolt was
closed that I had good continuity on the wires. I connected to a open zone
on the panel and programmed as a perimeter zone. So now when an employee
wants to arm the system at night and the front door deadbolt is not set the
system will indicate "not ready to arm" and the employee will then know that
they forgot to check the front door before leaving the building. I went
back to the door and filled any holes with spackling as needed.

Note: My preference is to keep all wires hidden inside walls. This was one
of those jobs that to do so would have been very costly in time to do so.

As for your project it may be quite different but in some ways similar. Be
advised that these switches cannot carry a lot of current. So watch your
numbers and adjust your project to suit.

Good Luck!!

ABLE1