Contact enhancers?

[William Sommerwerck]

** Such products only work if you believe in them.
Like crystals and pyramids, etc.

The advertising and marketing DOES look like snake-oil, but there's
some real technology behind it. A small amount of residue contains
a liquid semiconductor, which is the active part of Stabilant-22 and
DeOxit Shield S. NATO stocks the stuff (NSN 6850-01-435-6479 is
the stock number) for aviation and other high-reliability electronics
applications.

There's no question they improve the contact. The issue is whether they
improve the sound. I find this unlikely. However, all the audio connections in
my system have been treated with Caig Red and Gold products (as appropriate).
Why shouldn't they be clean?

When I worked for RCA at NOAA, one of the computers had problems with the edge
contacts on its memory board. No amount of conventional cleaning helped, but
Cramolin Red fixed it -- for a while (several days).

 

[Phil Allison]

"whit3rd"
Phil Allison wrote:

"Daniel Prince"

I cannot find my bottle of Tweek so I need to buy some...
I have looked on eBay and contact enhancers come in [various forms]

** Such products only work if you believe in them.

Like crystals and pyramids etc.

The advertising and marketing DOES look like snake-oil, but there's
some real technology behind it.

** Pseudo technology.

Just like all the asinine SHIT you spew.




..... Phil

 

[whit3rd]

On Saturday, December 15, 2012 11:55:49 AM UTC-8, William Sommerwerck wrote:

When I worked for RCA at NOAA, one of the computers had problems with the edge

contacts on its memory board. No amount of conventional cleaning helped, but

Cramolin Red fixed it -- for a while (several days).

The red is (I believe) the same as DeOxit, and is a cleaner only. Clean
doesn't last. The blue (PreserVit or somesuch) had the lubricant/enhancer
component. That (blue) has now been renamed DeOxit Shield.

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Mon, 10 Dec 2012 12:42:56 -0800, Daniel Prince
<neutrino1@ca.rr.com> wrote:

I cannot find my bottle of Tweek so I need to buy some new contact
enhancer. Which one do you use and recommend?

If you must, Cramolin, if you can find it. Caig red is you can't.

Or you can mix your own, as I've done (mostly for curiosity). Whatever
commercial product you select, look on the MSDS sheet for the
ingredients. Favorite cleaner mix so far is naphtha (Coleman camp
fuel) and a tiny amount of oleic acid (available on eBay). I don't
use a "contact enhancer" as I don't think it's possible. See below.

However, there's a problem. If you think about it, the idea behind a
contact CLEANER is to remove any oxide (or sulfide) coating on the
contacts. That's usually done with a weak acid, such as oleic acid or
vinegar. Both will eventually attack copper, so it has to be followed
by a water and alcohol rinse. However, that leaves the contact
material again exposed to attack by various aromatics, which will soon
return the contacts to their previous oxidized state. Enter the
contact preservative, which is just a coating of oil or grease. You
can do as well with almost any thin grease. However, note that all of
them are non-conductive, so adding grease increases the contact
resistance slightly. If allowed to mix with dirt, it becomes an
insulating layer, which makes things even worse than just dirty
contacts. Leave off the grease and high pressure contacts, such as on
some older rotary switches, will eventually gouge their way through
the plating material and expose the base metal, which will promptly
oxidize or tarnish. Of course, all this applies only to tin and
silver contacts, but not gold, which doesn't tarnish, oxidize, or
require lubrication. Wash with your favorite cleaner or solvent, and
leave the gold alone.

I have looked on eBay and contact enhancers come in liquids that you
apply with a brush, squeeze tubes, and aerosol sprays. Which form
do you think is best? Thank you in advance for all replies.

I use a syringe. The pressurized cans with the red nozzle usually
consume far too much lube and always make a mess, which is the plan so
that you'll use up the can quicker. With a small syringe, it's much
easier to get into tight areas, and dispense a controlled amount. I
have a small supply of medical glass syringes with *BLUNT* tips. Also
available on eBay). Plastic syringes with a rubber plunger seals will
work, but are eventually attacked by solvents.

More on cleaners:
<http://www.antiqueradios.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=82058&start=40>

Drivel: In a past life, I used to design marine radios. Corrosion
and corruption (fungus growth) were constant problems. The
conventional wisdom was to select the contact plating correctly (i.e.
gold is only for "dry" contacts, silver if it carries power), and to
not give the crud anything to stick to (i.e. no lubes, oils, greases,
or goo). The contacts could look fairly oxidized and disgusting, but
as long as the fairly tiny contact surfaces were clean, there would
not be a problem. Standard procedure for factory repair was to hose
the exposed contacts (rotary switches and relays) with solvent to
remove the contact cleaner grease residue deposited by the dealer.

Coax connectors were another problem. Some brilliant marketing person
decided that filling the coax connector with "dielectric" silicon
grease would make it waterproof. That works, but it also put a layer
of insulating silicon grease on the contact surfaces of the connector.
No water in the connector, but also no connection. Cleaning out the
grease completely is difficult.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[whit3rd]

On Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:24:58 AM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

....

contact preservative, which is just a coating of oil or grease. You
can do as well with almost any thin grease. However, note that all of
them are non-conductive, so adding grease increases the contact
resistance slightly.

Not entirely true; some conductive greases ARE available, including
transparent ones that aren't easy to tell from 'normal' grease

<http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1589/.f?sc=2&category=185>

...this applies only to tin and
silver contacts, but not gold, which doesn't tarnish, oxidize, or
require lubrication.

If gold really DIDN'T oxidize, it'd weld to itself on contact. There's
no crust of oxide, not even a micron thick layer. But, there's a nanometer
of oxide, all over any gold surface. At elevated temperature and humidity,
even a clean gold/gold connection will fail, because something grows
on that gold surface. We lowered the storage humidity spec and our PC-based
product stopped getting memory and video and PCIe errors at the environment
test lab.

Lubricant might not be irrelevant, after all, on gold contacts.

 

[gregz]

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:

On Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:24:58 AM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

...
contact preservative, which is just a coating of oil or grease. You
can do as well with almost any thin grease. However, note that all of
them are non-conductive, so adding grease increases the contact
resistance slightly.

Not entirely true; some conductive greases ARE available, including
transparent ones that aren't easy to tell from 'normal' grease

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1589/.f?sc=2&category=185

...this applies only to tin and
silver contacts, but not gold, which doesn't tarnish, oxidize, or
require lubrication.

If gold really DIDN'T oxidize, it'd weld to itself on contact. There's
no crust of oxide, not even a micron thick layer. But, there's a nanometer
of oxide, all over any gold surface. At elevated temperature and humidity,
even a clean gold/gold connection will fail, because something grows
on that gold surface. We lowered the storage humidity spec and our PC-based
product stopped getting memory and video and PCIe errors at the environment
test lab.

Lubricant might not be irrelevant, after all, on gold contacts.

I got some Cramolin copper grease. I never used it, but someday ?

My view on lube. Somewhat why oil works for sharpening, helps push aside
oxides, might also soften them.

Greg

 

[Jeff Liebermann]

On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 20:37:04 -0800 (PST), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>
wrote:

On Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:24:58 AM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

...
contact preservative, which is just a coating of oil or grease. You
can do as well with almost any thin grease. However, note that all of
them are non-conductive, so adding grease increases the contact
resistance slightly.

Not entirely true; some conductive greases ARE available, including
transparent ones that aren't easy to tell from 'normal' grease

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1589/.f?sc=2&category=185

Bad example. There are carbon doped greases that are used mostly to
dissipate static electricity between sliding surfaces and to lubricate
mechanical switches. It doesn't take much resistivity to be
considered "conductive".
<http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/greases-and-lubricants/conductive-greases/carbon-conductive-grease-846/?
117 ohm-cm bulk resistivity. There are also some silver doped
greases. I have no clue what those are for, but they should have
better conductivity than carbon doping.

...this applies only to tin and
silver contacts, but not gold, which doesn't tarnish, oxidize, or
require lubrication.

If gold really DIDN'T oxidize, it'd weld to itself on contact.

As in cold weld? That does happen, but the adhesion forces to the
nickel base metal is stronger than the wiping forces, so the gold
stays in place on the contacts (unless the plating is really soft and
thick). Here's the rules of the game for gold:
<http://www.te.com/documentation/whitepapers/pdf/aurulrep.pdf>

There's
no crust of oxide, not even a micron thick layer. But, there's a nanometer
of oxide, all over any gold surface.

Gold oxide is an insulator. I did some googling and couldn't find any
references mentioning such an oxide coating on gold. Certainly
aluminum is protected by an oxide coating, but methinks not gold. To
the best of my knowledge (at this late hour) gold's primary attribute
is its resistance to oxidation.

At elevated temperature and humidity,
even a clean gold/gold connection will fail, because something grows
on that gold surface.

Nobody plates contacts with pure gold. Nickel and Cobalt are added to
make "hard gold". There's also an under-plating of nickel, on which
surface the gold is plated. If one gets the contacts hot enough, the
nickel will diffuse through the gold plating, get exposed to air, and
oxidize or tarnish forming nickel sulfate. If the gold has a greenish
tint, you have nickel sulfate. That might be what's happening.

We lowered the storage humidity spec and our PC-based
product stopped getting memory and video and PCIe errors at the environment
test lab.

When I was building marine radios, we used big 0.156 gold edge
connectors for everything. Dry loads, high power, DC, RF, whatever,
it all used the same 50 micro inch gold plated connectors. We had a
few problems, but never any env test failures. I even built a machine
that would insert and retract the cards repetitively until the
connection showed some "noise". I gave up after about 10,000 cycles
and no noise appeared. Inspection under a microscope showed that none
of the hard gold had migrated.

Lubricant might not be irrelevant, after all, on gold contacts.

Maybe, but I would want to know the failure mode of your PCIe
connectors before I passed judgment.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

 

[Phil Hobbs]

On 12/18/2012 11:37 PM, whit3rd wrote:

On Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:24:58 AM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

...
contact preservative, which is just a coating of oil or grease. You
can do as well with almost any thin grease. However, note that all of
them are non-conductive, so adding grease increases the contact
resistance slightly.

Not entirely true; some conductive greases ARE available, including
transparent ones that aren't easy to tell from 'normal' grease

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1589/.f?sc=2&category=185

...this applies only to tin and
silver contacts, but not gold, which doesn't tarnish, oxidize, or
require lubrication.

If gold really DIDN'T oxidize, it'd weld to itself on contact. There's
no crust of oxide, not even a micron thick layer. But, there's a nanometer
of oxide, all over any gold surface. At elevated temperature and humidity,
even a clean gold/gold connection will fail, because something grows
on that gold surface. We lowered the storage humidity spec and our PC-based
product stopped getting memory and video and PCIe errors at the environment
test lab.

Lubricant might not be irrelevant, after all, on gold contacts.

Gold on boards isn't anything like pure, and the cheap stuff has lots of
gaps in its surface coverage. Depending on the pH, you can get a
monolayer of gold oxide on a surface, or (interestingly) a monolayer of
water, which it turns out forms a _hydrophobic_ surface, since all the
available hydrogen bonding sites are hidden.

(I was going to answer that gold didn't oxidize, but checked first, and
found this interesting paper: http://tinyurl.com/c34olw3 .)

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net

 

[George Herold]

On Dec 19, 2:08 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:

On Tue, 18 Dec 2012 20:37:04 -0800 (PST), whit3rd <whit...@gmail.com
wrote:

On Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:24:58 AM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

...
contact preservative, which is just a coating of oil or grease.  You
can do as well with almost any thin grease.  However, note that all of
them are non-conductive, so adding grease increases the contact
resistance slightly.

Not entirely true; some conductive greases ARE available, including
transparent ones that aren't easy to tell from 'normal' grease

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1589/.f?sc=2&category=185

Bad example.  There are carbon doped greases that are used mostly to
dissipate static electricity between sliding surfaces and to lubricate
mechanical switches.  It doesn't take much resistivity to be
considered "conductive".
http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/greases-and-lubricants/conductive...
117 ohm-cm bulk resistivity.  There are also some silver doped
greases.  I have no clue what those are for, but they should have
better conductivity than carbon doping.

I've got a tube of silver grease, that we bought but never used...
it's shoved to the back of my 'gunk' drawer.
It reads,"Typical applications include lubrication of switches or
circuit breakers, heat dissipation from transformers, or static
grounding on seals or O-rings."

Contains Silver, dimethyl poly-siloxane, carbon black.

George H.

...this applies only to tin and
silver contacts, but not gold, which doesn't tarnish, oxidize, or
require lubrication.

If gold really DIDN'T oxidize, it'd weld to itself on contact.

As in cold weld?  That does happen, but the adhesion forces to the
nickel base metal is stronger than the wiping forces, so the gold
stays in place on the contacts (unless the plating is really soft and
thick).  Here's the rules of the game for gold:
http://www.te.com/documentation/whitepapers/pdf/aurulrep.pdf

There's
no crust of oxide, not even a micron thick layer.  But, there's a nanometer
of oxide, all over any gold surface.

Gold oxide is an insulator.  I did some googling and couldn't find any
references mentioning such an oxide coating on gold.  Certainly
aluminum is protected by an oxide coating, but methinks not gold.  To
the best of my knowledge (at this late hour) gold's primary attribute
is its resistance to oxidation.

At elevated temperature and humidity,
even a clean gold/gold connection will fail, because something grows
on that gold surface.

Nobody plates contacts with pure gold.  Nickel and Cobalt are added to
make "hard gold".  There's also an under-plating of nickel, on which
surface the gold is plated.  If one gets the contacts hot enough, the
nickel will diffuse through the gold plating, get exposed to air, and
oxidize or tarnish forming nickel sulfate.  If the gold has a greenish
tint, you have nickel sulfate.  That might be what's happening.

We lowered the storage humidity spec and our PC-based
product stopped getting memory and video and PCIe errors at the environment
test lab.

When I was building marine radios, we used big 0.156 gold edge
connectors for everything.  Dry loads, high power, DC, RF, whatever,
it all used the same 50 micro inch gold plated connectors.  We had a
few problems, but never any env test failures.  I even built a machine
that would insert and retract the cards repetitively until the
connection showed some "noise".  I gave up after about 10,000 cycles
and no noise appeared.  Inspection under a microscope showed that none
of the hard gold had migrated.

Lubricant might not be irrelevant, after all, on gold contacts.

Maybe, but I would want to know the failure mode of your PCIe
connectors before I passed judgment.

--
Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

 

[George Herold]

On Dec 19, 10:03 am, Phil Hobbs
<pcdhSpamMeSensel...@electrooptical.net> wrote:

On 12/18/2012 11:37 PM, whit3rd wrote:





On Sunday, December 16, 2012 6:24:58 AM UTC-8, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

...
contact preservative, which is just a coating of oil or grease.  You
can do as well with almost any thin grease.  However, note that all of
them are non-conductive, so adding grease increases the contact
resistance slightly.

Not entirely true; some conductive greases ARE available, including
transparent ones that aren't easy to tell from 'normal' grease

http://store.caig.com/s.nl/it.A/id.1589/.f?sc=2&category=185

...this applies only to tin and
silver contacts, but not gold, which doesn't tarnish, oxidize, or
require lubrication.

If gold really DIDN'T oxidize, it'd weld to itself on contact.  There's
no crust of oxide, not even a micron thick layer.  But, there's a nanometer
of oxide, all over any gold surface.   At elevated temperature and humidity,
even a clean gold/gold connection will fail, because something grows
on that gold surface.  We lowered the storage humidity spec and our PC-based
product stopped getting memory and video and PCIe errors at the environment
test lab.

Lubricant might not be irrelevant, after all, on gold contacts.

Gold on boards isn't anything like pure, and the cheap stuff has lots of
gaps in its surface coverage.   Depending on the pH, you can get a
monolayer of gold oxide on a surface, or (interestingly) a monolayer of
water, which it turns out forms a _hydrophobic_ surface, since all the
available hydrogen bonding sites are hidden.

(I was going to answer that gold didn't oxidize, but checked first, and
found this interesting paper:http://tinyurl.com/c34olw3.)

Thanks for the paper. Years ago I made this bouncing gold wire
quantum contact gizmo. After sitting for a while it wouldn't work as
well and I'd wipe the wires with a 'gold cleaning solution' that was
used in a lab I visited. I think the ‘recipe’ for the solution was 2
parts ethanol, one part toluene and one part methanol. (But it could
have been acetone instead of methanol?) This worked.. but it could
have just been the act of wiping that cleaned the surface.

George H.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot nethttp://electrooptical.net- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

 

[gregz]

gregz <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:

Daniel Prince <neutrino1@ca.rr.com> wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:


"Daniel Prince" <neutrino1@ca.rr.com

I cannot find my bottle of Tweek so I need to buy some new contact
enhancer. Which one do you use and recommend?

I have looked on eBay and contact enhancers come in liquids that you
apply with a brush, squeeze tubes, and aerosol sprays. Which form
do you think is best? Thank you in advance for all replies.


** Such products only work if you believe in them.

Like crystals and pyramids etc.



.... Phil

I originally bought the Tweek because Jerry Pournelle recommended it
in his column in Byte magazine. Has any magazine published
objective, scientific tests of Tweek, DeoxIT Gold or any other
contact enhancers?

I have done a little testing myself. Just take some flat metal and some
leads, VOM.
Scrape around bare metal vs applied lubes or whatever. I get some positive
results vs dry metal.

Greg

Anybody do anything using VCI emitters. A long time ago I got samples from
a wadia guy, never used those. I wonder if it's still good. Also used
Bullfrog spray electronic protector cleaner, smelled like maple Syrup.
Never could conclude anything. I do remember the little sheets often packed
around mechanical switches, especially silvered. Some areas outside the
paper had a lot of oxide.

Greg

 

[gregz]

gregz <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:

gregz <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:
Daniel Prince <neutrino1@ca.rr.com> wrote:
"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:


"Daniel Prince" <neutrino1@ca.rr.com

I cannot find my bottle of Tweek so I need to buy some new contact
enhancer. Which one do you use and recommend?

I have looked on eBay and contact enhancers come in liquids that you
apply with a brush, squeeze tubes, and aerosol sprays. Which form
do you think is best? Thank you in advance for all replies.


** Such products only work if you believe in them.

Like crystals and pyramids etc.



.... Phil

I originally bought the Tweek because Jerry Pournelle recommended it
in his column in Byte magazine. Has any magazine published
objective, scientific tests of Tweek, DeoxIT Gold or any other
contact enhancers?

I have done a little testing myself. Just take some flat metal and some
leads, VOM.
Scrape around bare metal vs applied lubes or whatever. I get some positive
results vs dry metal.

Greg

Anybody do anything using VCI emitters. A long time ago I got samples from
a wadia guy, never used those. I wonder if it's still good. Also used
Bullfrog spray electronic protector cleaner, smelled like maple Syrup.
Never could conclude anything. I do remember the little sheets often packed
around mechanical switches, especially silvered. Some areas outside the
paper had a lot of oxide.

Greg

Don wadia Moses, the wadia guy.
He sure did some shit. Passed way in 2008.

Greg

 

[Daniel Prince]

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:

** Such products only work if you believe in them.

Like crystals and pyramids etc.

Crystals DO work. My digital watch has a quartz crystal that works

as an oscillator to keep the time. It also has liquid crystals that
work as displays.

I have an electronic lighter I use to light candles. It has a
piezoelectric crystal that works to generate sparks.

Diamonds are crystals. They work as abrasives in various types of
saws, grinding wheels and drills. Sapphire is a crystal. It works
as a phonograph needle.
--
When a cat sits in a human's lap both the human and the cat are usually
happy. The human is happy because he thinks the cat is sitting on him/her
because it loves her/him. The cat is happy because it thinks that by sitting
on the human it is dominant over the human.

 

[Phil Allison]

"Daniel Prince" <neutrino1@ca.rr.com>

"Phil Allison"

** Such products only work if you believe in them.

Like crystals and pyramids etc.

Crystals DO work. My digital watch has a quartz crystal that works
as an oscillator to keep the time. It also has liquid crystals that
work as displays.

** The world can easily do without FUCKWITS like the above troll.

So can this NG.

Piss him off, anyhow & any way you can.



..... Phil

 

[Allodoxaphobia]

On Fri, 28 Dec 2012 00:56:29 -0800, Daniel Prince wrote:

"Phil Allison" <phil_a@tpg.com.au> wrote:

** Such products only work if you believe in them.

Like crystals and pyramids etc.

Crystals DO work. My digital watch has a quartz crystal that works
as an oscillator to keep the time. It also has liquid crystals that
work as displays.

I have an electronic lighter I use to light candles. It has a
piezoelectric crystal that works to generate sparks.

Diamonds are crystals. They work as abrasives in various types of
saws, grinding wheels and drills. Sapphire is a crystal. It works
as a phonograph needle.

Diamonds also work to keep a woman happy.

 

On Monday, December 10, 2012 8:42:56 PM UTC, Daniel Prince wrote:

I cannot find my bottle of Tweek so I need to buy some new contact

enhancer. Which one do you use and recommend?



I have looked on eBay and contact enhancers come in liquids that you

apply with a brush, squeeze tubes, and aerosol sprays. Which form

do you think is best? Thank you in advance for all replies.

--

When I am in the kitchen, I often kick one of my cat's balls.

After I kick it, he will sometimes play with it for a few

seconds to several minutes. His favorite are the ones that

rattle. He'll play with any ball that makes noise.

Hi

We sell Stabilant 22A. You can buy it at sibert.co.uk

 

[William Sommerwerck]

I have both Tweek and Stabilant 22A. I have never been convinced they provide
any meaningful improvement in conductivity or sound quality.

Is there something wrong with Caig products? At least they clean the surface,
a useful step before applying an enhancer.

 

[amdx]

On 6/11/2014 9:13 AM, angela.winton@googlemail.com wrote:

On Monday, December 10, 2012 8:42:56 PM UTC, Daniel Prince wrote:
I cannot find my bottle of Tweek so I need to buy some new contact

enhancer. Which one do you use and recommend?



I have looked on eBay and contact enhancers come in liquids that you

apply with a brush, squeeze tubes, and aerosol sprays. Which form

do you think is best? Thank you in advance for all replies.

--

When I am in the kitchen, I often kick one of my cat's balls.

Stop being cruel!


---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

 

[gregz]

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

I have both Tweek and Stabilant 22A. I have never been convinced they
provide any meaningful improvement in conductivity or sound quality.

Is there something wrong with Caig products? At least they clean the
surface, a useful step before applying an enhancer.

I was having trouble with my golf cart. Backup warning microswitch was
mostly not working. Took switch off, squirted some CRC 2-26 into the
button, worked several times. Works now. It enhanced the contact.

Greg

 

On Wednesday, June 11, 2014 7:13:45 AM UTC-7, angela...@googlemail.com wrote:

When I am in the kitchen, I often kick one of my cat's balls.

Another case of cruelty to animals, eh?