Chip with simple program for Toy

On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 23:29:54 GMT, Rich The Newsgropup Wacko
<wacko@example.com> wrote:

On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 18:31:05 +0100, John Woodgate wrote:

I read in alt.binaries.schematics.electronic that Richard Crowley
rcrowley7@xprt.net> wrote (in <114iq4d6q9vlv48@corp.supernews.com>)
about 'Question About IC Chips', on Tue, 29 Mar 2005:
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote ...
Along those same lines, what about unused microcontroller ports? Say
a PIC16F8xx. Can you just set them as outputs and ignore them?

That would certainly seem like the logical thing to do.
No pun intended.

Oh, go on, intend away! No-one was ever punished for a really good pun.

You know what is paved with good intentions? (;-)

Do you know where the apathetic Buddhists worship?

So Wat.
Click to expand...
---
Funny!-)

Do you know where transsexuals worship?

At the alter.

--
John Fields
 
On Tue, 29 Mar 2005 14:35:42 -0500, Byron A Jeff wrote:

In article <1112119092.206028.13690@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com>,
SklettTheNewb <SteveKlett@gmail.com> wrote:
great, thank you for the response.
So with that calculation and a 1.5v, 140mAh battery and a 1.5v, 20mA
LED, I would be looking at roughly 70 hours of constant operation.

Missed a decimal point. 140mAh/20mA = 7 Hrs, not 70.

The other problem is that the LED requires a specific forward voltage.
Click to expand...
This is one of the worst, most rampant misconceptions among electronic
newbies.

A(An?) LED needs a constant _current_. (or at least controlled, or
regulated.) The forward voltage "spec" is merely the voltage that happens
to appear across its diode junction when the specified current is passed
through it. It's OK to apply an LED to, for instance, a watch battery,
because the internal resistance of the battery itself will limit the
LED's forward current. But put a LED across a 1.2V NiCd cell, and you
will most likely let the magic smoke out.

The battery's voltage will most likely drop during its use. At some point
before the 7 hours, the LED will go out.
Click to expand...
And depending on the battery, the LED might go out so quickly that you
don't even see the flash.

Finally you may not have enough forward voltage even at 1.5V
Click to expand...
There's a huge thread on either this NG or s.e.design or
alt.binaries.schematics.electronic about eking the last possible
electon out of an AAA cell by clever electronics. I recommend at least
giving it a look-see. I don't recall the exact subject line, but it's
one of those that sounds unlikely. Kind of a pleasant surprise,
actually. :)

Good Luck!
Rich
 
I read in alt.binaries.schematics.electronic that John Fields
<jfields@austininstruments.com> wrote (in
<ljsj41phug5it9ueoim9e8hr6930rkr92d@4ax.com>) about 'Question About IC
Chips', on Tue, 29 Mar 2005:
I read in alt.binaries.schematics.electronic that Richard Crowley
rcrowley7@xprt.net> wrote (in <114iq4d6q9vlv48@corp.supernews.com>)
about 'Question About IC Chips', on Tue, 29 Mar 2005:
"Glenn Ashmore" wrote ...
Along those same lines, what about unused microcontroller ports? Say
a PIC16F8xx. Can you just set them as outputs and ignore them?

That would certainly seem like the logical thing to do.
No pun intended.

Oh, go on, intend away! No-one was ever punished for a really good pun.

You know what is paved with good intentions? (;-)

Do you know where the apathetic Buddhists worship?

So Wat.


---
Funny!-)

Do you know where transsexuals worship?

At the alter.
Click to expand...
Keep it up, guys. Where do atheists worship?
--
Regards, John Woodgate, OOO - Own Opinions Only.
There are two sides to every question, except
'What is a Moebius strip?'
http://www.jmwa.demon.co.uk Also see http://www.isce.org.uk
 
Active8 <reply2group@ndbbm.net> wrote in
news:bt2raakl5mf0$.dlg@ID-222894.news.individual.net:

On 29 Mar 2005 11:34:02 -0800, bolwarra5@hotmail.com wrote:

Well , I'll put this crazy problem forward and see what comes back.
The project is to have a candle (modified or 'gimmicked' I guess)
under a cup which is face down on a table. When the cup if lifted up
(hence revealing the candle) the candle is already lit. The solution
I have come up with is to have some type of light sensor that
connects to a glow plug (model plane engine part) that lights some
lighter fluid and lights the wick. So therefore when the cup is
lifted , it activates the glow plug which lights some fluid which
lights the wick. Any better ideas?
I know its a strange project but I guess so is life.


Such complex and potentialy dangerous solutions to a simple problem.
Take a match and slice into the head with a sharp razor blade. Slip
a piece of fine wire into the slit and wrap it around the head.
Solder some larger gauge wires to the fine wires so the joint is
below the head. Secure the wires to the paper match stick with
masking tape.

The larger wires won't fuse when you apply a voltage, but the fine
wire will light the match. Fudge and practice until you can just
tilt the cup enough to let in light and get the flame near the wick
- if the whole contraption is inside the cup. You could hide it
behind the candle. Don't use a flammable cup. Placing the cup on the
table will extinguish the match, if it's in the cup. If you want
your audience to see that the cup is empty and there's nothing
behind the candle, make your own candle around everything - battery,
sensor, ignitor.

You should be able to set the match off with 1 or 2 batteries - like
the old 000 steel wool firestarter trick.
Click to expand...
How about use a lunar ignitor for a model rocket motor. It would only
need about 6V... maybe tie a CDS cell in there for the light sensor.

--
-Ray
 
"SklettTheNewb" <SteveKlett@gmail.com> wrote in
news:1112119615.136281.123950@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com:

thanks for the reply!

I understand what you're saying about circuit draw and duration. for
my needs I would just need a quick "tick" on, then 1500 milliseconds
off.

I found these circuits using 555 chip
http://home.cogeco.ca/~rpaisley4/LM555.html#4

I guess I will need to learn how to use a multimeter so that I can
determine how much a circuit like this will draw, but it looks like I
can set the frequency to what I want using of these circuits.

If there is a more effecient way, I would like to know about it. I
don't intend to develop the circuit myself, I just need to determine if
this project makes sense before I think about speaking to a pro and
possibly putting out $$, you know?

I appreciate your help so far.
Steve
Click to expand...

What are you trying to light? Maybe you can use a couple AAA instead of
watch batteries and recharge them. I use hi power LED's when the power
goes out. We live in an area that if the wind blows too much we loose
power. I use rechargeables for most things.

--
-Ray
 
On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 05:09:47 -0500, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 04:14:12 -0500, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 04:08:23 -0500, Active8 wrote:

test
--
Click to expand...
Best Regards,
Mike
 
In article <pan.2001.07.13.14.57.08.16677@example.net>,
Rich Grise <richgrise@example.net> wrote:
The other problem is that the LED requires a specific forward voltage.
This is one of the worst, most rampant misconceptions among electronic
newbies. A(An?) LED needs a constant _current_.
Click to expand...
Rich,

The LED still requires a minimum voltage to conduct.

The OP gave a current specification, so it's clear he understood about
current limitation.

BAJ
 
SklettTheNewb wrote:

I would like to calculate how long an LED will stay lit given a
specific power source. I need to know what the smallest battery I can
use in a project and still get n hours of operation.

For example:
if I have a typical LED and a 1.4v battery 130mah (hearing aid
battery), how long will it stay lit to the point where you can't
visually determine it's dimming..

What is the formula?

Also, does a flashing LED consume a non-linear amount of power? In
other words, if I had an led that was on 50% of the time, could I
double the duration value from the above said formula?

As you can tell, I don't really know anything. I just have an idea for
something and am trying to determine how feasible it is...

Thanks for any help!
Steve

batteries/Cells have Amp Hour Ratings.
Click to expand...
that means it will produce X number of Amps
in that hour before it goes cah-put!!
at least that is the way i have always understood it.
the units actually in most cases will deliver more amps
than the AH rating, but the unit will die before its rated
time of course.!
 
In article <l999fnyr12bd.dlg@active8.fqdn.th-h.de>,
Active8 <reply2group@ndbbm.net> wrote:

How about use a lunar ignitor for a model rocket motor. It would only
need about 6V... maybe tie a CDS cell in there for the light sensor.

I thought about that, thus the match idea. Are they any noisier or
smokier than a match?
Click to expand...
Speaking as a formerly avid, but now pretty much "retired" model
rocketeer, no, they aren't. A small (if you're within 2-3 feet, you
*might* be able to hear it if you pay real close attention) "fsst",
accompanied by a barely visible wisp of smoke.

--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - New Email policy in effect as of Feb. 21, 2004.
Short form: I'm trashing EVERY E-mail that doesn't contain a password in the
subject unless it comes from a "whitelisted" (pre-approved by me) address.
See <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd/main/contact.html> for full details.
 
On 30 Mar 2005 08:49:21 -0800, "aman" <aman.bindra@gmail.com> wrote:

For using an AC switch is it recommended to switch only live wire by
using SPST or switch both live and nuetral using DPST ?
Click to expand...
---
It's always best to switch both. That way when power is switched off
the equipment will be completely isolated from the mains, decreasing
the chance that someone will be killed because of impoperly installed
wiring.

--
John Fields
Professional Circuit Designer
 
mowhoong wrote:
John Popelish <jpopelish@rica.net> wrote:

Properly derated, good quality electrolytic capacitors, (temperature,
temperature rise, voltage) can last a lot longer than 5 years. Poor
quality caps that are running at several of their maximum ratings can
have a very short life.
One of the wear out mechanisms is loss of electrolyte through the seal
material. I do not know what you are referring to by, "Due to
crystaline in the material".

Hi thank all for the response, I read from some book ,is just like lead acid
battery if not use for a long period the plate in the battery will be > polarize.
Click to expand...
It is like a battery only because it involves chemistry. In
electrolytic capacitors, one of the plates is metal (aluminum for
most, tantalum for some) and one plate is the conductive electrolytic
solution surrounding that metal. The insulation that separates them
is a thin layer of oxide that is made of the metal and oxygen released
by driving current through the electrolyte in one direction during the
manufacturing process. If the unit sits around for years, there is
some degradation of the oxide, reducing its insulating properties.
There is also a possibility that the electrolyte will escape and there
will be no conductive plate opposite the metal. Both these aging
problems are much improved since I started electronics, 40 years ago.
But long periods of hot storage or operation will eventually wear out
any electrolytic capacitor. It is only a question of how hot and how
long. That is why capacitors are life expectancy rated based on
several conditions (temperature, voltage, ripple current). Sitting on
the shelf, they last much longer, generally.

--
John Popelish
 
aman wrote:
For using an AC switch is it recommended to switch only live wire by
using SPST or switch both live and nuetral using DPST ?
Click to expand...

It depends on where you are in the world and what electrical system
will power it.

--
Former professional electron wrangler.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida
 
On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 10:13:36 +0000, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 05:09:47 -0500, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 04:14:12 -0500, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 04:08:23 -0500, Active8 wrote:

test
Click to expand...
Me, too.
 
On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 10:13:36 +0000, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 05:09:47 -0500, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 04:14:12 -0500, Active8 wrote:

On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 04:08:23 -0500, Active8 wrote:

test
Click to expand...

richgrise@thunderbird:~
$ dig 209.86.73.208

; <<>> DiG 9.2.3 <<>> 209.86.73.208
;; global options: printcmd
;; Got answer:
;; ->>HEADER<<- opcode: QUERY, status: NXDOMAIN, id: 7718
;; flags: qr rd ra; QUERY: 1, ANSWER: 0, AUTHORITY: 1, ADDITIONAL: 0

;; QUESTION SECTION:
;209.86.73.208. IN A

;; AUTHORITY SECTION:
.. 10800 IN SOA A.ROOT-SERVERS.NET. NSTLD.VERISI
GN-GRS.COM. 2005033000 1800 900 604800 86400

;; Query time: 45 msec
;; SERVER: 4.2.2.4#53(4.2.2.4)
;; WHEN: Wed Mar 30 16:31:36 2005
;; MSG SIZE rcvd: 106

richgrise@thunderbird:~
$ dig 209.86.73.208

; <<>> DiG 9.2.3 <<>> 209.86.73.208
;; global options: printcmd
;; Got answer:
;; ->>HEADER<<- opcode: QUERY, status: NXDOMAIN, id: 54750
;; flags: qr rd ra; QUERY: 1, ANSWER: 0, AUTHORITY: 1, ADDITIONAL: 0

;; QUESTION SECTION:
;209.86.73.208. IN A

;; AUTHORITY SECTION:
.. 10786 IN SOA A.ROOT-SERVERS.NET. NSTLD.VERISIGN-GRS.COM. 2005033000 1800 900 604800 86400

;; Query time: 20 msec
;; SERVER: 4.2.2.4#53(4.2.2.4)
;; WHEN: Wed Mar 30 16:31:50 2005
;; MSG SIZE rcvd: 106

richgrise@thunderbird:~
$ dig 4.30.170.20

; <<>> DiG 9.2.3 <<>> 4.30.170.20
;; global options: printcmd
;; Got answer:
;; ->>HEADER<<- opcode: QUERY, status: NXDOMAIN, id: 53492
;; flags: qr rd ra; QUERY: 1, ANSWER: 0, AUTHORITY: 1, ADDITIONAL: 0

;; QUESTION SECTION:
;4.30.170.20. IN A

;; AUTHORITY SECTION:
.. 10800 IN SOA A.ROOT-SERVERS.NET. NSTLD.VERISIGN-GRS.COM. 2005033000 1800 900 604800 86400

;; Query time: 33 msec
;; SERVER: 4.2.2.4#53(4.2.2.4)
;; WHEN: Wed Mar 30 16:32:33 2005
;; MSG SIZE rcvd: 104

richgrise@thunderbird:~
$ dig www.neodruid.org

; <<>> DiG 9.2.3 <<>> www.neodruid.org
;; global options: printcmd
;; Got answer:
;; ->>HEADER<<- opcode: QUERY, status: NOERROR, id: 31950
;; flags: qr rd ra; QUERY: 1, ANSWER: 1, AUTHORITY: 0, ADDITIONAL: 0

;; QUESTION SECTION:
;www.neodruid.org. IN A

;; ANSWER SECTION:
www.neodruid.org. 7200 IN A 4.30.170.20

;; Query time: 82 msec
;; SERVER: 4.2.2.4#53(4.2.2.4)
;; WHEN: Wed Mar 30 16:32:47 2005
;; MSG SIZE rcvd: 50

richgrise@thunderbird:~
$

:)
 
On Wed, 30 Mar 2005 08:03:59 -0800, SklettTheNewb wrote:

I had lost sight of the op's *assignment* and was thinking he had to
use a liquid fuel... that is not the case, so my ideas are a waste.
The match would be the easiest for sure!
Click to expand...
But seeing a match strike as the performer lifts the lid isn't going
to be much of a trick. I think the OP wants the candle to be already
burning, or at least look like it. A candle that's being lit looks
different from a candle that's already burning. Maybe he should use
a trick cup, with vent holes so that he can light the candle some
moments in advance of lifting the cup.

But if a match strikes just as the cup gets lifted, it's not even a
trick. Sorry.

Break a Leg!
Rich
 
Try here:

http://www.orcad.com/community.pspice.models.aspx

Good luck.
Richard

<mister.steve.smith@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1112141947.204192.227260@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
Ive tried google. But could not locate the spice model for an LM386.
Can someone help?
thanks
Click to expand...
 
"eeh" <eehobbyist@yahoo.com.hk> wrote:

Just a question: Is ferrite bead actually an inductor? Or a filter?
Click to expand...
The ferrit bead is a core for an inductor, which can be used in a filter,
or as a filter.

When you send an AC signal through an inductor the higher frequencies
will be more attenuated than the low frequencies.

A loudspeaker filter often consists of an inductor and a capacitor. The
signal comes to the loudspeaker, is connected to an inductor which is in
series with the bass speaker, it is also connected to a capacitor which
is connected in series with the treble speaker.

The inductor lets the bass sounds through to the bass speaker but stops
the treble signals. The capacitor lets the treble signal through to the
treble speaker but stops the bass signals, which would damage the treble
speaker.

The inductor in this case has a core of ferrite or iron powder which
makes the inductor more effective, without the need for many more turns,
which would increase the resistance and steal power from the bass
speaker.



--
Roger J.
 
"eeh" <eehobbyist@yahoo.com.hk> wrote in message
news:1112233248.040364.249860@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
Hi,
Hi.
Just a question: Is ferrite bead actually an inductor? Or a filter?
Click to expand...

Both, really, and a bit more.

The bead is intended to form a filter, in conjunction with
the impedances surrounding it.

The bead can be modelled as an inductor coupled to
current paths within the bead itself. This makes it a
lossy inductor, which you can see if you look at the
complex impedance carefully.

--
--Larry Brasfield
email: donotspam_larry_brasfield@hotmail.com
Above views may belong only to me.
 
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